Chuck Seiler

More progress to report, the anchor and

 
... lee boards have been added to the shallop.


These are supposed to be attached by a short chain, built up from supplied PE.  Each link is about 1 1/2 mm long, with no spares for modeller error.
Well, inevitably, the first link I cut disappeared into the ether, never to be seen again.

I decided to use ready-made chain instead (18 links per inch).
This did involve a bit of fettling, but works in 'prototype' fashion:


Starboard view, lee board retracted:

 
 
Port view, lee board deployed:


The concern here is the slack rope, where that board is supposed to be heavy.
Has anybody any suggestions for showing that with suitable tension? (Or slack under gravity.)

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

The decks are not shown in those drawings, so you would need another source to provide that information.
 
When you say " false keel " are you referring to the center longitudinal  piece of a plank on bulkhead model?  To establish the slots, you will first have to establish the deck/s ...

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

Hi, Al.
 
I have a couple of suggestions. I have passed these on to other manufacturers in the past, but you know how it goes -- every company has their preferred niche, and man hours for development aren't unlimited. I know BlueJacket has a passion for subjects from the Northeast, but the West Coast has no comparable modeling enterprise bringing their indigenous designs to market, so it'd be nice if someone did something about that. Here are some ideas, in no particular order:
 
1. A West Coast salmon troller.

 
2. The motor launch Madaket. Last surviving vessel of the Coggeshall Launch & Tow Company and one of the few surviving vessels of her type.

 
3. The lumber schooner C A Thayer -- last surviving lumber schooner. Currently berthed at San Francisco Maritime NHP. She was recently completely overhauled, so someone has good plans of her somewhere.

 
4. A scow schooner, e.g. Alma. Midwest Products used to make one, but it's been off the market for many years now.

 
5. Any three-masted barkentine. A lovely rig IMO, and under-represented in the hobby.

 
6. For an East Coast subject, how about the schooner yacht Coronet? Schooner yachts are another under-represented segment of the hobby, and Coronet has been undergoing restoration at the International Yacht Restoration School since 1995 (soon to be transferred to Mystic Seaport, if not there already).

 
Anyways, that's my short list.
 

My error.  You mentioned you were working with 1/32" material and my thought was you needed a blade smaller than that.  I missed the fact that you wanted to make dadoes...which would have required the 1/32 blade.
 
Personally, I use slotting blades because that is what the saw originally came with.  They work for me and I am a creature of habit.

There are two different Worlds and to help you we need to know which one that you are living in.
 
A.  Full sized table saw:  These typically use blades ranging in diameter from 7-1/2in to 12in.  Some hollow ground blades made for cutting veneer are as thin as 3/32in.  I have not encountered anything thinner.  
 
B.  Specialty Model Making Tablesaw (Proxxon and Byrnes).  These have either a 1/2in arbor or it’s metric equivalent.  These saws can use blades sold for cutting metals by machine tools.  These are often called slotting blades.  These blades usually have a diameter of 4in or less.  A commonly used blade is available as follows:
 
Diameter  3in
No of teeth. 93
Arbor hole size 1/2in
Width. .030in.
 
Much thinner blades are also available
 
Roger

Did you see Kurt's answer above?
 
I really don't have any idea..  I was just trying to find the kerf you were looking for.

If you follow the plans, yes.  I will use the scheme in post #13 (6 Jan).

Will I be mounting sails?
A mainsail, maybe.  I have some teabag paper for the purpose (can't get SilkSpan over here).
No foresail though. They rarely appear in the Willem van de Velde paintings, there'd be more space for peering round the boat, and it'd add a talking point.

Trouble is, I'd need to 'recruit' a crew in an uncommon scale (1/32).

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

It is coming along nicely.  I am about at that stage mow and am studying the plans before I start rigging in earnest.  There is at least 1 block assembly that needs to be placed on the mast before the shrouds and forestay are rigged.  I don't recall if the rigging plan mentions that.
 
Will you be mounting the sails?  I don't plan on sails, myself, and I am trying to figure out how to handle the lines that would normally be attached to the sails...like the one running thru the slot on the mast.

The blade you want will be dependent on your saw.  I don't see where you mentioned it.  The blade(s) would be dictated by arbor size and how much of the blade will stick up above the table.  I have a Byrnes Saw and can use a 1.5 inch blade...maybe even 1 inch.  I say that because with 1/32" material you will want a very thin blade but it need not stick up above the table much.
 
The link for MALCO Gregory gave above is where you need to go.  I am currently looking at "HIGH SPEED STEEL" "JEWELER"S SLOTTING SAW".  Blade # JS114006120 is 1.5 inch diameter and .006 inches thick (.15 mm).  There is a large selection to chose from. 
 
https://www.malcosaw.com/product/js114006120/
 

It is coming along nicely.  I am about at that stage mow and am studying the plans before I start rigging in earnest.  There is at least 1 block assembly that needs to be placed on the mast before the shrouds and forestay are rigged.  I don't recall if the rigging plan mentions that.
 
Will you be mounting the sails?  I don't plan on sails, myself, and I am trying to figure out how to handle the lines that would normally be attached to the sails...like the one running thru the slot on the mast.

I've been quiet here, but not unproductive.

The main mast has been rounded off.

 
Since that photo was taken, a sheave (? pulley) has been inserted into the slot.
The tip of the mast kept breaking.  There are some holes up there that weakened the wood, but have no obvious purpose.  These have been replaced by a small button.

The rigging thread has been replaced.  The line supplied in the kit is a polymer that unravels at the slightest provocation - this was from twisting the cord tighter, and releasing:


I believe @Richard44 had a similar issue with his build.

The supplied thread has been replaced with Mantua thread (the UK importers are my local model shop).

The standing rigging, made from hemp thread painted brown with acrylic paint thinned with IPA.

The fore stay on the left was spliced, while the two side stays were, more conventionally, seized.

The hull has been painted and, thwarts were added, along with sheaves (? pulleys) for the lee boards.



 
Other detail work included the anchor and some of the boat's equipment.

 
The blocks now have straps (?) and are ready for the mast.

Are they carbide or high speed steel?

A #76 drill bit is .02" and #70 is .028".  If those are too small for the chuck, I believe there are mini chucks availabe with 1/8" shaft that can be chucked into the drill,  IIRC they go down to 0.

Are they carbide or high speed steel?

A #76 drill bit is .02" and #70 is .028".  If those are too small for the chuck, I believe there are mini chucks availabe with 1/8" shaft that can be chucked into the drill,  IIRC they go down to 0.

My next build will be the the Model Shipways Mayflower 1620, MS2020.   To be a little pedantic, this is really a model of the Mayflower II replica of 1956,  based on research of William Baker and the best knowledge of what Mayflower of 1620 might have looked like.   The replica ship was sailed from the UK to the US in 1957 where it was gifted to us and exists today as a floating museum.   It has recently been undergoing a new restoration, where the color scheme has changed from the original Baker scheme as depicted on the box cover shown below.  At some point I will need to decide if I want the designed scheme or to follow the changes of its current incarnation.  
 
 
 
This is not a terribly complex kit, parts wise.  There are 4 sheets of plywood parts for the framing, and 4 others of assorted parts, plus the usual strips, dowels and other bits.   I will make just a few observations of the contents quality here.  
 
Firstly, the keelson piece (bulkhead former) was quite warped.   As this forms the whole basis of hull alignment, that was a disappointment.  Got to get this bit straight or else you end up with a banana boat!  More on this later.  Also the cutting on the plywood could be better.  Several parts were not cut all the way through, so there was some work to do to finish the cuts.  The plywood in my kit was quite "splintery" at the edges and tended to get a good bit of delamination when cutting or sanding.  That's going to present some challenges while fairing.  
 
One thing I tend to fuss about is Britannia metal parts and how badly they tend to be made.  I was pleasantly surprised in this kit because as these things go (low expectations, I know) , these are not too bad.  Even the crows nests might be usable, though there is a good chance I might want to scratch build new ones when I get there.  
 

 

 
The blocks and "rope" provided are typical MS fare, which is to say not very good.  I will be making an order to Syren to get proper materials.  

The 1/8 shank ones are carbide. 
 
The carbide ones break very easily, but work well  if one is careful. 

Are they carbide or high speed steel?

A #76 drill bit is .02" and #70 is .028".  If those are too small for the chuck, I believe there are mini chucks availabe with 1/8" shaft that can be chucked into the drill,  IIRC they go down to 0.

A #76 drill bit is .02" and #70 is .028".  If those are too small for the chuck, I believe there are mini chucks availabe with 1/8" shaft that can be chucked into the drill,  IIRC they go down to 0.