Clark

Hope the impression will even be enhanced by the LED.

Thanks for the compliments und also Thanks for stopping by. Clark

Thank you very much. I am currently adjusting the cut-outs for the poop deck. This should be almost completely open.

Planking of forecastle, gangway and aft deck. For the forecastle, I transferred the cut-outs onto paper again, indenting the lines by 1 mm compared to those for the subdeck. After the planks had been glued on, they were cut or punched out along the specified lines. The cut-outs were to be masked later with a 1x2 mm strip. The length and mitre of the strips were adjusted outside the ship. The deck was fitted and the prefabricated boundary strips were glued in place. The procedure for the aft deck was the same as for the forecastle. I wanted to fit the gangway now and glue the knees in place first. However, one of the knees conflicts with a cleat. In the end, I decided not to glue any knees in place. The planking of the three sections is now complete.

Captain's cabin The bulkheads were adjusted and had to be sanded down slightly. To create the planking between the two bulkheads, I first cut paper to the appropriate size and then glued strips onto this paper. The two groups of strips were then adjusted again. A strip had broken off on one of the side panels. I later covered this (and the other side) with a 1x1mm strip. I wanted to tackle the carronades and first measured the length of the breech rope. Due to the tackle, the slides had to be firmly attached and fixed in place at this stage. In his instructions, Chris recommends making them sliding at first. The captain's cabin is now finished for the time being. As I want to design the poop deck completely open, I will add the furniture later. I am also undecided as to whether I want to add Pellew and officers (doll's house).

Knees and floor of the captain's cabin The hanging knees required a greater degree of adjustment. Some of the lodging knees still had to be milled out for the LEDs. In addition, the knees above the LEDs were covered with aluminium foil so that they would reflect the light. I used painter's tape to fix the lodging knees in place while gluing them. In some cases, I fitted the knees a little carelessly, but these are areas that are not or hardly visible. The sub-decks of the forecastle and quarterdeck were glued in place. The floor for the captain's cabin was installed. I used black cardboard for levelling and fixing.

Thank you very much, even if it probably looks a bit too cosy for a warship. Clark

Before attaching the knees for the deck beams, I wanted to adjust the quarterdeck and forecastle deck These should be cut out relatively wide to reveal the gun deck below. For the forecastle, I first checked the fit of the supplied plywood deck. The frame ears had to be notched a little further for this. I then made a template out of 0.8 mm plywood. I then transferred the planned cut-outs onto this template. The template deck was cut out and fitted. It was important to me that the bases for the carronades were centred in front of the gun ports. Although minor corrections habe to be made, I will then use this for the planking. I proceeded in the same way with the quarterdeck. On closer inspection, however, the plywood bridge at the board side seemed too narrow to me. So I moved the cutting lines towards the centre of the deck. The cut-outs were made on the supplied deck halves, with the quarterdeck being separated beforehand. The angle of view is somewhat misleading here, but here too, the bases for the carronades are located centrally in front of the gun ports. Finally, I checked how the LED would look. 6048

The beams were painted and coated with clear varnish and then glued in place. Several beams were inserted and the levelling was tested using two 10x10mm pieces of wood and then diluted PVA was applied to the joints on the MDF. In this way, the levelling was easily maintained. The anchor rope was laid The first beam at the bow has been panelled. I want to open the forecastle deck relatively wide and the panelling should cover the MDF behind it. The opening for the bowsprit was tested with a 10 mm dowel. The deck beams are largely in place. The two stern boat beams and their supports are not yet attached, as I still want to attach the gun crew and need space for this. The end beam of the quarterdeck has not yet been attached or painted. To level it, I had to deepen the cut-outs for the bitts by about 0.3 mm.

You're right. I just wasn't sure if I had done something wrong. Thanks for stopping by.

-------------- Deck beams Attaching the deck beams proved to be somewhat more difficult. A lot had to be filed down or removed. For the beams for the forecastle deck, simple bevelling was sufficient. The levelling was checked both in the centre and on the side. Fitting the deck beams of the quarterdeck was more difficult. On the one hand, a relatively large amount had to be sanded off the beams themselves. However, this was still not enough. In order to fit them, I had to remove a relatively large amount of the vertical MDF structures, partly restricted by the wiring for the MDF lighting. I filed alternately on the starboard and port sides to create additional space for inserting the beams. For the second deck beam (QD9), I had to file down the bitts a little, otherwise it would have been too high in the centre. The bitts will later be sanded smooth and painted over. The levelling of the quarterdeck beams was also checked in the centre and on the ship's side. One deck beam (QD 14) is missing in the picture. This can only be fitted once the longitudinal beams have been attached. There is a small note about this on the plan and also in the Blue Ensign description. When attaching the longitudinal beams, I noticed that they are not parallel. 793 790 791 However, the lack of parallelism corresponds to the plan.

Just a short update The metal parts for the stove have been etched so that the primer and paint will adhere later. The stove was made, painted and glued in place. Ladders, cannonballs and pumps are also attached.

Thank you for the compliment, but I was just following Chris and James' suggestions. Clark

Superstructures Gun deck The laser apparently had some problems with the knees for the bitts; the laser-cut upper surface was quite wavy. However, this was easy to sand smooth. 5734 The knees were then adjusted to fit the deck and bitts. After painting, the hatches and gratings were coated with varnish. I then decided to hide the anchor ropes in the fore gratings. It seemed illogical to me to have them run further across the deck, as they would then conflict with the subsequent superstructures. A corresponding opening was cut into the fore gratings and the edges were painted. After painting, the brick floor for the stove was coated with finely ground real ash and then with varnish. The superstructures were attached. My wooden right angle was used again to glue the ladders together. The ladders were adjusted on a trial basis. The thread on the ladders helps to retrieve them when they disappear into the lower deck. The openings of the companionways were painted black. I was bothered by the fact that the substructure was visible. Here, the thread leads to a piece of paper that I placed on the lower deck. The stove, the pumps and the ladders still need to be added. I will attach the railing supports for the companionways later. I'm afraid they will bend.

Hi B.E., Thank you for your reply. So I will run the anchor rope further towards the stern and then lead it down through the gratings. I'm not sure about the messenger cables yet, whether I should show them, as they are only attached when anchoring, at least I assume so. Thanks again for the tip. Clark