Clark

Planking the bulwark on the starboard side, planking the hull The bulwark on the starboard side was planked in the same way as the port side. It also took longer than I thought. To plank the hull further, the distances to the garboard plank were measured at bulkhead 9 and at bulkhead 14. During the first planking, it was found that the distance at bulkhead 14 was reduced. I will measure the plank tapers for every 5 planks. Therefore, the reduced distance at bulkhead 14 was calculated down to 5 planks (23.7 mm) and a corresponding mark was made on the hull. The only fixed points were marks at 25 mm for bulkheads 7 to 11 and the mark of 23.7 mm for bulkhead 14. Otherwise, the marking tape was laid by eye. As often discussed here, there are many ways to determine the plank tapers. I'm quite happy with mine. With Chuck's Planking Fan, the first two planks were only tapered at the bow. At the stern, one plank should still be in full contact with the counter and another full plank should form the transition from the counter to the hull. To form the transition from the counter to the hull, a plank was watered, adjusted and allowed to dry. The adjustment at the stern was also carried out wet for the other planks, and the planks were glued after 24 hours of drying. Certainly a bit elaborate, but I still find the adjustment in the wet state to be the method of choice for the somewhat difficult stern shape. For the three remaining planks, a taper was also made at the stern. I will replace missing planks at the stern with stealers later. Here, too, an adjustment was made in the wet state. All five planks of the first 5-pack are now in place, the first two of which are not tapered at the stern, while the remaining three are tapered. All five planks are tapered at the bow.

Planking the remaining bulwark / garboard strake on the port side When planking, I largely followed the building instructions. First, a strip was glued under the pattern of the outer bulwark. For this and the other strips, I alternated between cyano gel and PVA, using PVA mainly to create contact with the previously glued strip or pattern. A second strip was glued underneath and the openings for the gun ports were cut out/sanded. For the guiding strip of the wale, the distances between the lower edge of the gun ports and the upper edge of the wale were first measured at the individual gun ports and a marking tape was drawn along the points. Glue was applied accordingly and the strip was glued in place. Likewise, three strips were glued for the garboard strake. To plank the remaining bulwark, four planks were needed at the widest point. Accordingly, the strips were tapered at the stern and bow and then glued. The strips were attached in such a way that the space between the gun ports was left for the last strip, which made the adjustment much easier. The gun ports were then sanded free. It took longer than I thought. Now it's the turn of the starboard side.  

First and last shroud is mostly sufficient. Clark

Chris has since provided the boats in 3D print/cast form, but I still like the original version better. If you take the necessary care, it's also a lot of fun to make them. Plus, as Schooner also found, with time you get more skilled at it. Have fun with it too. Clark

Maybe you can glue small pieces of wood strip on the corners and under the rail of the Quarter Gallery, to simulate a transition to the rail of the transom. I think removing everything again will end in disaster. Clark

Preparing the second planking First, the gun ports were sanded flat. In the photo, you can see the sanding sticks and the file I used for it The rear side of the poop deck was adjusted. However, no sanding work was necessary on the deck. However, the rear supports protruded a little. The protrusions were sanded flat. The protrusions were sanded flat. The supports for the captain's cabin bench had to be lightly sanded. The bench protruded slightly and was then adjusted. The transom and upper counter were adjusted. The edge was lightly bevelled so that the edge of the counter would match the transom. The lower counter was watered and bent. The upper edge of the lower counter did not quite fit the upper counter. The counter was lightly sanded in the centre to make it fit. The lower counter was dry fitted, the lower line marked and the first planking removed accordingly. The lower counter was glued in. The cores of the stem post, keel and rudder post were glued in. The casings of the stem post, keel and rudder post were applied. These also form a rabbet for the second planking. The outer bulwarks in the stern and bow areas were glued on. However, the cut-outs of the outer bulwark for the last two gun ports were about 0.3 mm larger than the cut-outs in the underlying bulwarks. The gaps were filled. With the other gun ports, everything fit exactly. It may be because I watered the inner bulwark and not the outer one. However, I let it dry for more than 24 hours.

Sanding first planking First of all, I used the Dremel to smooth out the transitions and protrusions between the strips. All further sanding was then done by hand with 60 and 120 grit sandpaper. Then, with the help of the dry-fitted casings of the stem, keel and rudder post, I checked whether there was enough space to be able to carry out the second planking with the one-millimetre strips later. The casings form a rabbet against which the strips of the second planking will later rest. As can be seen in the picture, the strip does not make close contact in all areas at the bow. This is especially the case where the inner core of the stem post is fitted. Nevertheless, I will not make any corrections yet because I want to see how the planking will turn out in the end. In the area of the keel, the template for the garboard strake fits perfectly. A small slot had to be filed in the inner keel for the LED cables to exit There was not a well formed rabbet in the area of the rudder post. This is mainly becauseI filled some areas with filler. Excess material was sanded. I hope everything is prepared for the second planking.  

After 6 planks per side had been attached, the width of (this time) 5 planks was measured at frame 9 and the distances at the other frames measured with the help of the marking tape and Chuck's planking fan, An additional plank was fitted above the garboard strake, as I find it more comfortable to fit the last plank at this height. Further progress on planking There are only a few planks left now. I have already applied some filler in some places to close gaps. At frame 9 it becomes clear that a little more than 6 planks have to be fitted. Nevertheless, I have calculated with 6 planks. Towards the stern, the narrow point is at frames 13 and 14. I decided not to use stealers, but to taper the planks accordingly. Plank section starting at the stern (starting point (stern) left), fully tapered Plank section starting at the bow (right), fully tapered. In this way, 5 planks were laid until only one plank layer was missing. Here you can see the strong tapering of the planks in the area of frames 13/14. The last plank was divided into 3 sections. The plank starting at the bow reached to frame 8. It was fitted by eye, i.e. holding it, roughly marking and cutting it, and then filing it. Fitting the stern strip and centre strip Centre and stern strips attached. As you can see, I did the planking differently from the James instructions up to the area of the rudder post. I think it's easier to get a smooth transition this way when sanding. Now, sanding is next. As can be seen in the pictures, I have already partially started with it. But it is far from being finished. Given the size of the hull, it will probably take some time.  

Thanks. Looks fine.

I'd like that too Clark

Patina sounds good. But by copper patina I mean a green colouring. Can you post a few pictures so that we can see this? Does the patina intensify over time? Which sealer do you use? Clark

In my opinion, the most difficult part is adjusting the planks at the stern. First, I created a template to capture the bevelling at the stern post. A plank was held up and marked where the bend begins (see thin pencil lines) The plank was then hot bent The bend in the longitudinal direction was made with the fingers 4289 Subsequently, the bevelling at the stern post was transferred and the strip was then attached. In the beginning I wanted to lay 7 strips in this way, but then I interrupted after 6 strips and measured the remaining distance to the garboard strake. It was already clear that the stern area would also need to be slightly tapered. For the next section, I calculated with 6 planks and used the marking tape to show the course. Here, too, it can be seen that the bow area needs to be tapered more. As before: measuring the distances between the frames using painter's tape. Gluing the tape onto a board and calculating the plank width using Chuck's planking fan. Two planks of the new section are laid, also tapered at the stern.  

Hi Tim. Thanks for the encouraging words. Opinions are divided on the planking and everyone has their own method. It always makes me feel good when every strip fits. Clark

The planking is slowly progressing. First, I added another plank at the top that was not tapered. The gaps in the stern area bothered me a bit more, so I applied a little more putty. Everything is very provisional and will be sanded down further. It makes sense to attach a gaboard plank, especially to such a large hull. However, I didn't have any planks of sufficient width available. So I used a paper strip and double-sided tape to glue two 6 mm planks together to make a 12 mm plank. To better adjust the garboard plank, I provisionally joined the stem with its covering and roughly fitted it in place. Then I marked the positions of the first bulkheads. Incidentally, the stem fits perfectly into the recesses. The garboard plank was first adjusted outside the hull and then on the hull and then glued. However, no glue was applied in the stern area, because here the plank sections will be removed later so that they can merge into the MDF core to allow the stern post to sit correctly. As far as planking is concerned, everyone has their own method. I always think it's good if the first planking already anticipates the second planking and therefore believe that the first planking should be trimmed accordingly. To determine the number of planks still needed, I measured the length at bulkhead 9. The length was 149 mm. With a plank width of 6 mm, this corresponds to 24.8 planks, which is quite a number. So to plank the first section, I glued 7 plank pieces together and marked the width at bulkhead nine and in the area of the rudder post. With the help of the markings, the plank course was marked with a marking tape. 4244 Below the black marking tape, a tape was attached to the bulkheads, on which the respective bulkhead numbers were written. The tape was then removed and glued to a board. To determine the plank width at the respective bulkheads, I used Chuck's Planking fan (see NRG). This was held up to the respective bulkheads, the respective section cut off and glued to the bulkhead position marked on the masking tape. With the help of the markings on the strip, the strip can then be tapered. I always taper in pairs so that the strips on the port and starboard sides are the same. 4272 To position the strips correctly, I marked the cut side. This side will then face the bulwark for all planks. When I join the section of planking that comes from the bow with the section that starts at the stern, I will always offset the contact points according to the scheme that is also used for the deck planking. 4280 Now there are still 24 planks to lay, if I have calculated correctly.  

Thank you very much, but I'm not sure how the distance between the bulwark and the strip will turn out. I'll continue planking for now. Thank you also for all the work you put into the prototype and the instructions.