Clark

Sorry to read that.

Would also be interested in 1:64 scale

Attaching the wales The first 4 mm wide strip for the wale is very flexible and can be easily fixed with masking tape. I followed the guide strip of the second planking that I had attached earlier. When attaching the other strips, I was initially unsure how they should run in the stern area. In the end, I adjusted them to the curves of the second planking and then taped them towards the counter. The counter was slightly damaged in the process. I will probably fill this in before painting. Otherwise, the strips are very close together, so I won't be filling them, and I don't think it would be a problem if the planking is slightly visible. The wale was sanded with 180, 320 and 500 grit sandpaper.

Sanding the hull First, the hull was sanded with 120 grit. Left in the picture: sanded. Right: unsanded. The hull was then filled and sanded again with 120 grit. Left in the picture: filled and sanded. Right: sanded. Filling and sanding was repeated several times. After sanding with 120 grit, I sanded with 240 and 320 grit. I also applied a thin coat of paint in some places to check how the plank transitions would look. Clark

Finishing the 2nd planking It took some time to finish the second planking. The next 5 planks were fitted with small stealers at the stern. The distances between the garboard plank and the last plank laid were measured again. It is clear that a taper towards the stern is necessary from about the 12th/13th frame. However, I initially added a few more planks without tapering. After further planks were added without tapering, the next planks in the stern area were tapered further. The last plank can simply be fitted in the bow area. You can see that the distance to the garboard plank widens in the area of the 12th frame. I will compensate for this with the last plank. The critical area points downwards and will not be visible later. Critical area after adding one more plank I have levelled out the gaps in the stern area with three plank sections. All in all, the hull still looks pretty scruffy. But I think that the imperfections will disappear when sanding.

I made the stunsail booms for the fore channel and also built the fastenings on the channel. However, the spars then protruded quite a bit into the room and also hindered the placement of the anchors. I don't know how people solved that problem back then. Inboard? Dismantled the spars again.

Just a short update: the second planking takes time. For the next five planks, the distances were measured at several bulkheads and, as described above, these distances were converted to five planks and corresponding marks were made for laying the marking tape. 5 planks are laid and for the next 5 planks the distances between the garboard plank and the last plank laid were measured again using marking tape and then recalculated. I will not be tapering the stern area, only the bow area. The distances converted for 5 planks were marked on the hull at the level of the 3rd, 5th and 9th bulkheads, and a marking tape was placed along these marks to record the taper up to the stem post. 5 more plank layers are applied in this way. At the rudder post, the rabbet was about 0.3 mm too large (too much of the first planking was sanded off). I then underlaid the planks at the rudder post with a thin strip. For the next five plank layers, I then again measured the distances between the last laid plank and the garboard plank at various bulkheads. Now the distance could also be measured at the rudder post. It can be seen that stealers may be necessary at the stern. I will wait and see how the planking develops. At the bow, I no longer use marking tape to determine the curve, but instead I use Chuck's planking fan to ‘calculate’ and mark the necessary tapers. To taper the planks correctly, I measured the bulkhead spacing again using painter's tape.

Planking the bulwark on the starboard side, planking the hull The bulwark on the starboard side was planked in the same way as the port side. It also took longer than I thought. To plank the hull further, the distances to the garboard plank were measured at bulkhead 9 and at bulkhead 14. During the first planking, it was found that the distance at bulkhead 14 was reduced. I will measure the plank tapers for every 5 planks. Therefore, the reduced distance at bulkhead 14 was calculated down to 5 planks (23.7 mm) and a corresponding mark was made on the hull. The only fixed points were marks at 25 mm for bulkheads 7 to 11 and the mark of 23.7 mm for bulkhead 14. Otherwise, the marking tape was laid by eye. As often discussed here, there are many ways to determine the plank tapers. I'm quite happy with mine. With Chuck's Planking Fan, the first two planks were only tapered at the bow. At the stern, one plank should still be in full contact with the counter and another full plank should form the transition from the counter to the hull. To form the transition from the counter to the hull, a plank was watered, adjusted and allowed to dry. The adjustment at the stern was also carried out wet for the other planks, and the planks were glued after 24 hours of drying. Certainly a bit elaborate, but I still find the adjustment in the wet state to be the method of choice for the somewhat difficult stern shape. For the three remaining planks, a taper was also made at the stern. I will replace missing planks at the stern with stealers later. Here, too, an adjustment was made in the wet state. All five planks of the first 5-pack are now in place, the first two of which are not tapered at the stern, while the remaining three are tapered. All five planks are tapered at the bow.

Planking the remaining bulwark / garboard strake on the port side When planking, I largely followed the building instructions. First, a strip was glued under the pattern of the outer bulwark. For this and the other strips, I alternated between cyano gel and PVA, using PVA mainly to create contact with the previously glued strip or pattern. A second strip was glued underneath and the openings for the gun ports were cut out/sanded. For the guiding strip of the wale, the distances between the lower edge of the gun ports and the upper edge of the wale were first measured at the individual gun ports and a marking tape was drawn along the points. Glue was applied accordingly and the strip was glued in place. Likewise, three strips were glued for the garboard strake. To plank the remaining bulwark, four planks were needed at the widest point. Accordingly, the strips were tapered at the stern and bow and then glued. The strips were attached in such a way that the space between the gun ports was left for the last strip, which made the adjustment much easier. The gun ports were then sanded free. It took longer than I thought. Now it's the turn of the starboard side.  

First and last shroud is mostly sufficient. Clark

Chris has since provided the boats in 3D print/cast form, but I still like the original version better. If you take the necessary care, it's also a lot of fun to make them. Plus, as Schooner also found, with time you get more skilled at it. Have fun with it too. Clark

Maybe you can glue small pieces of wood strip on the corners and under the rail of the Quarter Gallery, to simulate a transition to the rail of the transom. I think removing everything again will end in disaster. Clark

Preparing the second planking First, the gun ports were sanded flat. In the photo, you can see the sanding sticks and the file I used for it The rear side of the poop deck was adjusted. However, no sanding work was necessary on the deck. However, the rear supports protruded a little. The protrusions were sanded flat. The protrusions were sanded flat. The supports for the captain's cabin bench had to be lightly sanded. The bench protruded slightly and was then adjusted. The transom and upper counter were adjusted. The edge was lightly bevelled so that the edge of the counter would match the transom. The lower counter was watered and bent. The upper edge of the lower counter did not quite fit the upper counter. The counter was lightly sanded in the centre to make it fit. The lower counter was dry fitted, the lower line marked and the first planking removed accordingly. The lower counter was glued in. The cores of the stem post, keel and rudder post were glued in. The casings of the stem post, keel and rudder post were applied. These also form a rabbet for the second planking. The outer bulwarks in the stern and bow areas were glued on. However, the cut-outs of the outer bulwark for the last two gun ports were about 0.3 mm larger than the cut-outs in the underlying bulwarks. The gaps were filled. With the other gun ports, everything fit exactly. It may be because I watered the inner bulwark and not the outer one. However, I let it dry for more than 24 hours.

Sanding first planking First of all, I used the Dremel to smooth out the transitions and protrusions between the strips. All further sanding was then done by hand with 60 and 120 grit sandpaper. Then, with the help of the dry-fitted casings of the stem, keel and rudder post, I checked whether there was enough space to be able to carry out the second planking with the one-millimetre strips later. The casings form a rabbet against which the strips of the second planking will later rest. As can be seen in the picture, the strip does not make close contact in all areas at the bow. This is especially the case where the inner core of the stem post is fitted. Nevertheless, I will not make any corrections yet because I want to see how the planking will turn out in the end. In the area of the keel, the template for the garboard strake fits perfectly. A small slot had to be filed in the inner keel for the LED cables to exit There was not a well formed rabbet in the area of the rudder post. This is mainly becauseI filled some areas with filler. Excess material was sanded. I hope everything is prepared for the second planking.