Clark

Maybe you can glue small pieces of wood strip on the corners and under the rail of the Quarter Gallery, to simulate a transition to the rail of the transom. I think removing everything again will end in disaster. Clark

Preparing the second planking First, the gun ports were sanded flat. In the photo, you can see the sanding sticks and the file I used for it The rear side of the poop deck was adjusted. However, no sanding work was necessary on the deck. However, the rear supports protruded a little. The protrusions were sanded flat. The protrusions were sanded flat. The supports for the captain's cabin bench had to be lightly sanded. The bench protruded slightly and was then adjusted. The transom and upper counter were adjusted. The edge was lightly bevelled so that the edge of the counter would match the transom. The lower counter was watered and bent. The upper edge of the lower counter did not quite fit the upper counter. The counter was lightly sanded in the centre to make it fit. The lower counter was dry fitted, the lower line marked and the first planking removed accordingly. The lower counter was glued in. The cores of the stem post, keel and rudder post were glued in. The casings of the stem post, keel and rudder post were applied. These also form a rabbet for the second planking. The outer bulwarks in the stern and bow areas were glued on. However, the cut-outs of the outer bulwark for the last two gun ports were about 0.3 mm larger than the cut-outs in the underlying bulwarks. The gaps were filled. With the other gun ports, everything fit exactly. It may be because I watered the inner bulwark and not the outer one. However, I let it dry for more than 24 hours.

Sanding first planking First of all, I used the Dremel to smooth out the transitions and protrusions between the strips. All further sanding was then done by hand with 60 and 120 grit sandpaper. Then, with the help of the dry-fitted casings of the stem, keel and rudder post, I checked whether there was enough space to be able to carry out the second planking with the one-millimetre strips later. The casings form a rabbet against which the strips of the second planking will later rest. As can be seen in the picture, the strip does not make close contact in all areas at the bow. This is especially the case where the inner core of the stem post is fitted. Nevertheless, I will not make any corrections yet because I want to see how the planking will turn out in the end. In the area of the keel, the template for the garboard strake fits perfectly. A small slot had to be filed in the inner keel for the LED cables to exit There was not a well formed rabbet in the area of the rudder post. This is mainly becauseI filled some areas with filler. Excess material was sanded. I hope everything is prepared for the second planking.  

After 6 planks per side had been attached, the width of (this time) 5 planks was measured at frame 9 and the distances at the other frames measured with the help of the marking tape and Chuck's planking fan, An additional plank was fitted above the garboard strake, as I find it more comfortable to fit the last plank at this height. Further progress on planking There are only a few planks left now. I have already applied some filler in some places to close gaps. At frame 9 it becomes clear that a little more than 6 planks have to be fitted. Nevertheless, I have calculated with 6 planks. Towards the stern, the narrow point is at frames 13 and 14. I decided not to use stealers, but to taper the planks accordingly. Plank section starting at the stern (starting point (stern) left), fully tapered Plank section starting at the bow (right), fully tapered. In this way, 5 planks were laid until only one plank layer was missing. Here you can see the strong tapering of the planks in the area of frames 13/14. The last plank was divided into 3 sections. The plank starting at the bow reached to frame 8. It was fitted by eye, i.e. holding it, roughly marking and cutting it, and then filing it. Fitting the stern strip and centre strip Centre and stern strips attached. As you can see, I did the planking differently from the James instructions up to the area of the rudder post. I think it's easier to get a smooth transition this way when sanding. Now, sanding is next. As can be seen in the pictures, I have already partially started with it. But it is far from being finished. Given the size of the hull, it will probably take some time.  

Thanks. Looks fine.

I'd like that too Clark

Patina sounds good. But by copper patina I mean a green colouring. Can you post a few pictures so that we can see this? Does the patina intensify over time? Which sealer do you use? Clark

In my opinion, the most difficult part is adjusting the planks at the stern. First, I created a template to capture the bevelling at the stern post. A plank was held up and marked where the bend begins (see thin pencil lines) The plank was then hot bent The bend in the longitudinal direction was made with the fingers 4289 Subsequently, the bevelling at the stern post was transferred and the strip was then attached. In the beginning I wanted to lay 7 strips in this way, but then I interrupted after 6 strips and measured the remaining distance to the garboard strake. It was already clear that the stern area would also need to be slightly tapered. For the next section, I calculated with 6 planks and used the marking tape to show the course. Here, too, it can be seen that the bow area needs to be tapered more. As before: measuring the distances between the frames using painter's tape. Gluing the tape onto a board and calculating the plank width using Chuck's planking fan. Two planks of the new section are laid, also tapered at the stern.  

Hi Tim. Thanks for the encouraging words. Opinions are divided on the planking and everyone has their own method. It always makes me feel good when every strip fits. Clark

The planking is slowly progressing. First, I added another plank at the top that was not tapered. The gaps in the stern area bothered me a bit more, so I applied a little more putty. Everything is very provisional and will be sanded down further. It makes sense to attach a gaboard plank, especially to such a large hull. However, I didn't have any planks of sufficient width available. So I used a paper strip and double-sided tape to glue two 6 mm planks together to make a 12 mm plank. To better adjust the garboard plank, I provisionally joined the stem with its covering and roughly fitted it in place. Then I marked the positions of the first bulkheads. Incidentally, the stem fits perfectly into the recesses. The garboard plank was first adjusted outside the hull and then on the hull and then glued. However, no glue was applied in the stern area, because here the plank sections will be removed later so that they can merge into the MDF core to allow the stern post to sit correctly. As far as planking is concerned, everyone has their own method. I always think it's good if the first planking already anticipates the second planking and therefore believe that the first planking should be trimmed accordingly. To determine the number of planks still needed, I measured the length at bulkhead 9. The length was 149 mm. With a plank width of 6 mm, this corresponds to 24.8 planks, which is quite a number. So to plank the first section, I glued 7 plank pieces together and marked the width at bulkhead nine and in the area of the rudder post. With the help of the markings, the plank course was marked with a marking tape. 4244 Below the black marking tape, a tape was attached to the bulkheads, on which the respective bulkhead numbers were written. The tape was then removed and glued to a board. To determine the plank width at the respective bulkheads, I used Chuck's Planking fan (see NRG). This was held up to the respective bulkheads, the respective section cut off and glued to the bulkhead position marked on the masking tape. With the help of the markings on the strip, the strip can then be tapered. I always taper in pairs so that the strips on the port and starboard sides are the same. 4272 To position the strips correctly, I marked the cut side. This side will then face the bulwark for all planks. When I join the section of planking that comes from the bow with the section that starts at the stern, I will always offset the contact points according to the scheme that is also used for the deck planking. 4280 Now there are still 24 planks to lay, if I have calculated correctly.  

Thank you very much, but I'm not sure how the distance between the bulwark and the strip will turn out. I'll continue planking for now. Thank you also for all the work you put into the prototype and the instructions.

Next, the outer bulwarks have to be attached, along with the strips that form the lower boundary of the gun ports. The main strip for the lower edge of the gun ports was easy to lay. For the stern area, I hot-bent a second strip and then laid it with the front part butted up against it. However, I am not completely satisfied with the way the strip runs in the stern area, so I will have to make some improvements. In the middle area, small gaps of approx. 0.1 to 0.2 mm in size were visible between the edge of the gun ports and the border moulding. I filled this with liquefied putty. The gun ports will have to be sanded flat later anyway. That's the nice thing about working with wood. You can fix anything somehow. A strip had to be glued over the gun ports. There was a gap of about 1 mm between this and the lower strip. This was also filled with diluted putty, avoiding the area of the gun ports. To fix and align the aft bulwarks, I pushed a square rod through the last gun port flush to the aft and upward. With the help of spirit levels, the port and starboard bulwarks were levelled against each other. Clamping the bulwarks after gluing them proved somewhat difficult, since the clamps should not touch the LED under any circumstances, so that essentially only the area of the gun deck gun ports was left for the clamps. The bulwarks in the bow area are a good match. What I don't like at all is the transition at the stern. I'll probably have to add a little more putty here over the next few days.

After my experience with the installation of the LED on the starboard side, I would like to explain the installation of the LED on the port side in more detail. This is described for the installation of the LED above the canon deck First of all, I got a rough idea of where to position the LED. The LED should not be visible from the outside or from above. That means they should be located away from the gun ports and also covered by the knee. Accordingly, there are only 4 positions where the LED can be attached for the rear gun deck. Under QDK 18 and upwards, it makes little sense to position the LED since this area is later covered by the poop deck. As can be seen from the illustration, the LEDs are to be attached towards the bow in front of the corresponding deck beams. First of all, I reinforced the corresponding areas by gluing in small pieces of strip between the support beam of the deck beams and the longitudinal beams of the gun ports. Marked by the tweezers in the picture. Then the area directly in front of the deck beam was filed down to the gun deck. This is to be able to bend the LED downwards later. Then the holes for the anode and cathode of the LED had to be drilled. To correctly determine the distance between anode and cathode, I built a small marking aid. This was given a little colour and then the marking was placed on the previously filed section After drilling the holes, the LED was inserted. To avoid getting confused, I always arranged the anode (long leg, ending at the red wire) on the right. Then the LED was bent over to the deck. It was checked whether the lying knee fits over it. About 0.5 mm of the thickness of the knee had to be removed in the LED area (sorry for the bad quality of the picture). Then the wiring was done, with me always connecting the resistor to the anode. As you can see, I am not an expert at soldering. I also made a rough plan for the LED under the poop deck. Since I want to leave the poop deck largely open later, I used yellow LEDs for this area. With the LEDs under the forecastle, it should be noted that the horizontal knees are attached with the orientation astern, so the LEDs and the recesses for them are positioned towards the stern behind the deck beams. Overall, I am very satisfied with the effect.

Did you ever try wipe on poly (wop) for the natural wood? Otherwise you may try the variants on wood remnants precoloured. Clark

The projection shown in the previous post is bridged by a small strip on the back so that the two sections of the bulwark are now in line on the front. The supports for the deck beams were glued in, with the alignment being ensured by means of a dry fitting of the beams. To sand the bulkheads, the Indy was clamped overhead in the Amati clamping device using the dowels inserted in the fore and main mast openings. I first sanded with a Dremel and then with the self-made sanding sticks that I had already used on the inner bulwark (80 grit). I checked the fit with a strip, especially in the area of the gun ports. Then I started the LED wiring. The wired were fed through the centre of the keel between bulkheads 9 and 10. The branches for one LED above the gun deck then went between two bulkheads till I reached the space between bulkheads 13 and 14. Then it got tight. Therefore, from the luster terminal between bulkheads 13 and 14 the following wiring was installed: 1x supply for the last LED above the main gun deck. 2x supply for two LEDs (yellow) above the quarterdeck/under the poop deck 1x supply for the port side. It all looks pretty messy, but it works. I have had my experiences with laying the cables on the starboard side. I hope to be able to show an improved installation of the LED on the port side in the next post. Happy New Year