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Clark

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  1. Clark
    Hi Frank, thanks for answering such rapidly. Meanwhile I tried to transfer the foremast decline shown in the Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert grafic into the corel plans. Althought the waterline may be not congruent, it shows that the formast deviates 9-10 degree from the vertical axis (my degree digits on the plan are not correct, forgot to erase them). I think that deviation is necessary due to the special handling of the lateen sails. Similar deviation can be seen in xebecs and dhows. The upper left picture shows part of the Mondfeld plan of La Dracene with a similar deviation from the vertical axis. I do not know why Corel did not follow the old pictures but I think definitely that it is a mistake. Regarding the fixation of the foremast in the main deck I cannot imagine that it is strong enough to counteract the enormous force produced by the big sail. The number of shrouds is also limited. In addition: one side of the bitt is open also weakening the fixation. Thus I am quite convinced that the plan of La Dracene is quite correct: fixation of the formast at the keel line. Do you know why the foremast could be both on the starboard and port side?
  2. Clark
    Frank, when looking on the old plans, it seems that the foremast in galleys was not vertical but declined toward the bow. Did you calculate the decline when drilling the tubes in the bitts? The question arised when I was thinking about my best way to proceed. Morever, in the plan I saw, the foremast is fixed at the inner side of the keel. Thus there should be a hole in deck sourrounded by a support. Can you delineate that from your plans of the Fleur? Clark
  3. Clark
    Hi Frank, the books shows and describes "La Dracène" (1675) but there is a table in the book on the cannon diameter used on galleys. As for the "Coursier", the cannon above the keel line: 36 pounds cannonball; 16.00 cm diameter cannonball; 290 cm length of barrel. // Cannons in La Reale: 36 pounds, 24 pounds (244 cm), 18 pounds (229 cm). Link to a picture of La Reale can be found in my blog. Clark
  4. Clark
    Deck is dry now fitted and glued. Filler blocks and frames were tapered again to follow the deck line. Deck was planked using the tanganjika strips provided by Corel. Unfortunately, I did not remember the difficulties, I had before with that type of taganjika strips. They are very thin (0.45 mm) and sanding has to be done with great care. Caulking is simulated by black paper (0.25 mm thickness) strips glued between the wood strips (Ratio width caulking/ width plank~1:20). After cutting the paper strips, sanding was first done in the direction from bow to stern to avoid darkening of the wood by dust of the black paper. Next the slots in the decks were cut. To cut the deck slots in regular intervals, a simple metal template with exactly 8.00 mm depth (=distance between the 1.5 mm slots, double arrow in the picture) was made. The metal was tightly clamped on the deck planking to avoid splintering of the wood when cutting the slots. As already said, the thin tanganjika wood is tricky. Rectangular fit and congruency between starboard and port side was controlled by a rectangular metal. Meanwhile I got a hint to a picture of the old Reale. The ship is described in the Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert, an ancient voluminous Wikipedia. There is so called “planche” showing La Reale. Link: https://www.e-rara.ch/zuz/content/pageview/7088914 . Although this might not really help in building the model it gives an impression how the ship was handled and flagged. I am still wondering how the war prisoners (oarsmen) were treated. Did they have to stay at the oars day and night?
  5. Clark
    Hi Frank, Hi Hubac; meanwhile I received an answer from the University of Duisburg (not Düsseldorf). It describes a picture of Encyclopédie of Diderot and d'Alembert. Is this the same you took your pinterest photo from? Frank, do you have the book of Mondfeld (picture)? There are plans inside form which you can delineate the size of cannons. Clark
  6. Clark
    Frank, perfect as expected. Is there a special scroll saw you are working with? Please do not misunderstand me: the outcome results from your skills but a good saw may help. Clark
  7. Clark
    Thanks Frank, I got the feeling that adjusting the keel in the vertical axis might be a bit difficult since it is not very high and thus may not have sufficient length to attach right angels. I noticed that you have constructed a very sophisticated apparatus ("overkill") probably due to the same thoughts. Hope you can enjoy the following days despite the tough year you had. Clark
  8. Clark
    Keel is now roughly tapered. The first tapering seemed to be easier to me with no frames in the keel. Fine tuning will follow when frames are glued and sanded. Keel was mounted into a slipway made of wood blocks and right angle metal winkles for later adjusting the frames in the correct position. Frame and keel slots were slightly sanded in that the deck lines of the frames touched the outer lines of the triple frame with no difference in height. It came out that the frames delivered by corel are quite correct. Only minor sanding was necessary. After gluing the frames, deck lines of the frames were again corrected/sanded. Deck line was controlled by attaching strips. Hull side of the frames were roughly sanded after attaching strips and looking to their slope. In two frames, strips 0,5x5mm had to be glued on one side since they did not get in contact with the strip attached. These frames were sanded again. All in all it was a permanent interplay between controlling, measuring and sanding, everybody knows. Filler blocks and wood filler are now added to the first two bow gaps and the last two gaps at the stern. Sanding and controlling the hull line at the bow and the stern again and again. I got the feeling that this sanding and filling procedure is easier without the deck and deck planking attached. There is a good description of producing filler blocks in the forum (http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php…). In contrast to the descriptions mentioned I dry measured size and shape of the filler blocks directly in the ship without making templates. I trust on eyeballing. Ship is now put backwards due to Christmas. Some of children and grandchildren are coming and we are also visiting those living a bit far away.
  9. Clark
    Hi Frank, fun is garanteed. I look forward to follow your progress. It is really an impressive ship, isnt i? Clark
  10. Clark
    Hi Frank, I am not as experienced as Hubac s Historian. But just on logical grounds: I would draw the ropes for the middle carriage the other way around the wheels: outside in. At present the ropes get in close contact with the carriage wich would damage them (when the ship would really be in fight). Clark
  11. Clark
    Found it, perfect! Clark
  12. Clark
    Al, Thanks for visiting.
  13. Clark
    Thanks Gimo, where is your Reale now? Clark
  14. Clark
    Hi Frank and Hubac's Historian, thanks a lot for helping me. The painting is really helpful in building the ship but unfortunately it is probably not the one described by Vitz. It can be read that the starboard side is shown and not the portside. Moreover it is probably a drawing and not a painting. Meanwhile I figured out the the text copied is part of a thesis written at the Universtity of Duesseldorf (near the river Rhine, near France??). I will try to get in contact with the University to figure out the sources. Can you send me the link, where the painting of the Paris Museum can be looked at? There is no accdess via the website of the museum at least the way I tried. Thanks a lot Clark
  15. Clark
    I am going to join the club of modelers constructing or having constructed the ship. Frankly speaking, their construction and kit reports (gimo, Bender, fmodair, schiffebastler) urged me to order the kit. Mainly the very sophisticated report of Frank (fmodair) increased my wish to build the ship. I do not have the skills of the others mentioned. Thus this blog is mainly to those who rely on the material provided by Corel. Content of the kit is well described in construction reports of the club members. Most of the material seems to be of good quality but I am already wondering how to amend the plywood pieces. As mentioned I will probably manly rely on the material provided by Corel. However I like to see the wood structure of the models implying that I will use color paint very rarely. We will see. It seems to me that although Corel put some efforts in the written instruction manual, there is still enough space for improving. False keel is a triple one and made of six pieces which have to be glued overlapping to produce a keel three layers thick. To keep the keel straight I fixed and clipped the parts of the keel flatly on a shell with a metal rail below the keel pieces. Since the lower line of the keel is deflecting, small wood wedges were put under the bow and stern side of the keel to get the distance from the metal rail (arrow). The get the three overlaying pieces in the correct position, small wood stripes 4x4 mm were put into the spaces for the frames/bulkheads. After gluing the keel, frames were dry (!) fitted by filing the slots of the keel and filing the slots of the frames. Bottom side and deck side of the keel was treated with wood filler and sanded. Frames, false deck, the pieces of the true keel and other supports were dry fitted. Some minor sanding had to be done for this. Next step will be tapering the keel and adusting the frames.
  16. Clark
    Hi Frank, I have inserted part of text I found above. Vitz refers to Belin and Goussier as the artists behind the painting/drawing. Any idea? Clark
  17. Clark
    D
  18. Clark
    Frank, via Google I found an article of "Florian Vitz" describing a picture/painting of La Reale (in German) with a lot of details but not the cannons. Do you know what/where the picture/painting can be found? It might help with the cannon question. Clark
  19. Clark
    Frank, it looks perfect. But I am still wondering if the carriages have to be secured differently (as in other ships) depending on the status of the ship: in fight or on trip. (Do not know if thats the correct english expression, hope you know what I mean.) Thus you may have to decide how you want to present your ship later on. Clark
  20. Clark
    There is still the question where the cannon balls and the gun powder were stored when loaded from the front deck. I am also wondering how the carriages and canons were handled when they were such tight to each other. Clark
  21. Clark
    I am not sure but just for logic: Is there also a rig needed to pull the canon back? Enjoying your report. Clark
  22. Clark
    Within all the discussions about CAD and precision modelling, I felt a bit old fashioned when trusting the eyes. Clark
  23. Clark
    Thanks a lot for the excellent and detailed description. Also thanks for ensuring that eyeballing is a proper method. Clark
  24. Clark
    I bought a similar one (model craft) and did some tests on 1.5 - 2mm planks. It works, but you have to soak the planks intensively before. Clark
  25. Clark
    Thanks for all the replies. Regarding the voltage problem, we have 230 V in Germany. The one shown is 33 Euro. I ordered it. However, I am already facing the problem that the planks I am working with have to be bended in two directions. I will problably start with a longer test perid when the bender has been arrived. Thanks again

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