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Clark

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Everything posted by Clark

  1. Clark
    Thanks all for the hints and the tips. You convinced me to buy a plank bender. The one of Aeropicola is not available at least in Germany. Does anybody has ever tested the one shown in the picture? Clark
  2. Clark
    Dear Kriss, thanks for the tip. Maybe it may also depend on the wood type. Clark
  3. Clark
    Dear all, does anybody have experience with soaking the strips for some minutes in hot water (~80°C) and bending them directly therafter by fixing on right plyce of the hull? I read it somewhere in the forum. One simple problem for me: One end (stern) maybe easily soaked, but whats about soaking and heating the other end (bow) when the strip is fixed on the hull. It may be a silly question but I did not got a solution so far. Clark
  4. Clark
    Thanks for the many replies and comments. Just to add my experience with the saw since I bought it several weeks ago: I did a lot of cuts with various types of wood. I mainly used it for making wood filler between frames and for constructing supports in a slipway. Thus no work with the need to be very precise. There were no problems to do straight cuts with a precision of about 0.5 mm in wood pieces up to 20 mm thickness. The only problem I had was doing angular cuts with small wood pieces. I glued the pieces on longer sticks and fixed the miter gauge accordingly. It worked. I would strongly agree that a saw is dangerous. The protection system of the NovelLife is not the best one. Moreover, it sometimes interferes with handling because you cannot hold the wood sufficiently when the protection system is mounted. The speed of the saw can be varied by adjusting the power supply which is comfortable when handling different types of wood. But it probably makes no ´difference when cutting your finger with 12V or with 24V. I did not try it. I would not use the saw for cutting strips for deck planking or hull planking. Clark
  5. Clark
    Hi Wefalck, thanks for the tip. I will try the Zaponlack next time.
  6. Clark
    Would totally agree that CA is mostly a no go in rigging. However, I used it once on knots when giving a final fixation with 0.25 mm black rigging lines. The knots were then covered with black ink. Applying the CA was a bit tricky. I made the experience that watered PVA also leads to changes in the colour of rigging lines (depending on the type of lines). Clark
  7. Clark
    Bob Cleek, you are expressing what I feel. Adjusting height and correcing postion can often better be done by eye than by caliper. As a control I sometimes asked my my wife to have a sharp look on the ship. But her willingness is declining. Thanks all for joining the discussion Clark
  8. Clark
    Thanks for the rapid reply. I will keep it in mind when starting the planking. I am already enjoying the dry fitting. Clark
  9. Clark
    "In previous posts I mentioned that I had to lower the height of the stern yoke. Well, I lowered it too far! I had to put a temporary shim of about 1MM under the beam in order to properly finish installing the supports and have the correct curve of the beam." Dear Frank, mainly your report induced me to order the reale kit 4 weeks ago. Thanks for the excellent description and the pictures illustrating the progress in a very impressive way. Your efforts and success to work such accurately is an ever lasting motivation. Since I am just beginning to dry fit the frames and the keels, I have a question regarding the corretion of the height of the stern yoke: Was it necessary since it was placed on the deck planking and the thickness of the planking is not incorporated in the Corel-plans? During dry fitting of parts 1-38 (Corel) I could not detect such a problem. Thanks a lot for your valuable report. Clark
  10. Clark
    Bruce, thanks for the hints. For the dust extraction I have positioned the tube of a vaccum cleaner near the blade. Not the best solution but it works. Please keep us up to date with your proxxon fet. Clark
  11. Clark
    Dear Bob Cleek, you are right, it is not a Byrnes saw and most of the points you are mentioning are really the weaknesses of the saw. I thought of buying the Byrnes but I was repelled by the price and the additional shipping costs. One comment: I was also a little been puzzled by the uncommon blade type. But there are some providers - at least in Germany - who are selling a lot of blade subtypes which are also suitable for the NovelLife saw: https://www.saegeblatt-shop.de/produkte_kreissaegeblaetter-5-metallkreissaegeblaetter-din1837&din1838-86-BAY14006306100-24848.html May be I am dissapointed at the end, I will put some further reports when I start the real use. So far I have only tested it. Thank you for your comment. Clark
  12. Clark
    Heigth of the blade cannot be changed and it cannot be tilted. So far, I only missed one for rectangular cuts. Any angle I acchieved with sanding, since mostly only thin strips had to treated. Are you working with the bigger proxxon? Clark
  13. Clark
    Since I felt the need to buy a table saw, I browsed through the blogs and finally detected the “NovelLife Mini Hobby Table Saw”. I did not want to buy a proxxon one since I am rather disappointed by the plastic material proxxon is using in other tools. As shown in the pictures the saw was shipped well padded. It was easy to install when imaging how it would work. The first test on 10mmx10mm beech wood showed that the cut is smooth with no remaining and is quite accurate. Setting 50 mm produced a 50.1 mm (caliper) piece. Miter gauge seems to work accurately, it can be fixed well. It slides tightly but easily through the slot. I cannot tell anything about the long time stability. Thus it may be recommended to all which want to get a table saw with a reasonable price and those who want to saw wood (maximum 20 mm thick) with an accuracy of ~0.5 mm. I would be interested if there are any other modelers using this table saw.
  14. Clark
    Attached picture might help (Mondfeld book) Clark Rigging guns.tif
  15. Clark
    I can really recommend the book. Parts of the book have been published separately: Enzyklopädie des historischen Schiffsmodellbaus / Teil ....... von Barbara zu Wertheim und Wolfram zu Mondfeld | However, the "Enzyklopädie" does not provide much more information than the whole book. Clark
  16. Clark
    Hi Olapa 67, there are some excellent drawings explaining the rigging of guns in Historische Schiffsmodelle: Das Handbuch für Modellbauer Barbara zu Wertheim und Wolfram zu Mondfeld Do you have access to the book? Clark
  17. Clark
    Hi Olapa67 and all the others, I would be interested if anyone has problems with changing wood length due to changing humidity. My first model (Soleil royal, Mantua) was finished 1998 and was moved to various places in the meantime. I could not detect any damages. Regarding the filler blocks: thanks for initating the discussion. Clark
  18. Clark
    Hi olapa67 My experience: depend on the model. Regarding your model: I would recommend to fill also the final front gap in the bow and to fill at least the three gaps in the stern. I have no experience with foam, but balsa wood can definitely not be recommended. Clark

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