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Clark

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  1. Clark
    Frank, the advantage (at least to me) is that you are ahead. But I was also reflecting about the two holes for the foremast. I could also not realize why there are two. Following the Fluer de Lis may be an option. But it also may have been a sense of symmetry since it was a ship of pomp. Clark
  2. Clark
    No problem. The point is that you have to think about the next 10 steps when building the Reale.
  3. Clark
    Thanks Frank, the photo and my description my have led to errors but I have just drilled the water outlets, the slots for the shrouds are probably led through holes in the outer gangway. I will keep your hint in mind. Clark
  4. Clark
    Lower planks are glued now and I have started to drill the holes for water outlet. I made some help lines. One line 3 mm distance to the hull to mark the middle of the holes. Rectangular ones to mark the location of the supports. Distance between the rectangular lines was 9.5 mm. Thus, I made a small metal template, outer width 9.5 mm with an inner opening of 6 mm to mark the limits of the holes. For drilling the holes, a driller 0.8 mm was used, wood between the holes was cut and sanded. 6 mm width was marked on the sander (sanding paper glued on wood piece). To arrange supports for the lower planks, I started with the first one arranged by a metal strip clamped to the yolks. Gap between the following supports was kept by using a wood block with 7.3 mm thickness
  5. Clark
    Supports of port side and starboard side are now all fixed. Outer ends of supports had to be corrected in height.
  6. Clark
    Glad to see your progress. Clark
  7. Clark
    Frank, it is a pleasure to see your progress and the effort you are putting into the details. I noticed that you did not install the cannons yet. This because you wanted to finish the front deck first? Clark
  8. Clark
    Thanks Frank, when I first read your blog I was astonished that only a limited number of supports can be adapted per day. Now I know what you meant. Hope to read further inspiring news in your blog. Clark
  9. Clark
    All supports of port side are now fixed. It really took some time.
  10. Clark
    With every new ship fun and effort in rigging increased. Doing the same knots again and again can be very relaxing after a hard day. When I began to build mediterrian ships, the task increased further since the plans and books showing the rigging are limited. Looking in the old paintings is sometimes not helpful. Comparing the rigging plans of Corel and Amatis Xebecs let me suppose that there is still a lot of variation possible. Clark
  11. Clark
    Hi Chuck I was happy to find your blog. Klaus Störtebecker is still a hero in Germany at least at the coast line. As far as I know, the ship is originally named "Toller Hund" : "Toll" has two meanings: mad and great. Klaus Störtebecker was both. Clark
  12. Clark
    Thanks, it makes adjustment much easier. Clark
  13. Clark
    As suggested by the Corel manual, I started with the two middle supports #82 and #83 (Corel plans), which are at the lowest point of the deck line. To get them in a vertical position I made a holder with a 1.5 mm slot (= thickness of plywood) and 8 mm width of the vertical wood strips (= distance between the supports). I made also some wood pieces 8 mm wide to keep and control the distances between the supports. Additional supports were added between #82 and #83 and the yokes. Further supports were inserted between the middle ones and the yokes.
  14. Clark
    Regarding the bitts for fixation of the foremast; I had a discussion with Frank (fmodair) some time ago. Pictures of La Reale and some of other galleys show that there is a deviation of 5-7 degree of the foremast from the vertical axis due to the special handling of the lateen sails. It declines toward the bow. In the Corel plans, the foremast is shown in a vertical position. I decided to follow the paintings and drawings. To follow them, the deviation of the foremast of the vertical axis has also to be reflected in the tube to be drilled into the bitts. I have tested the decline with some wood pieces simulating the bitt and the foremast. Moreover, I do not believe that the bitts were strong enough to withstand the enormous power of the big sail, i.e., the foremast had to fixed at the keel line. Such a fixation is also shown in the Mondfeld plan of the galley La Dracene. Thus, I made surroundings for the foremast fixation. Next step is adapting the supports for the oars., which is probably the most difficult part
  15. Clark
    Some recommend to mix the paint with PVA to get an uneven result. I am eager to read the news on your post.
  16. Clark
    Frank, which kind of paint do you want to use? Water based paint would not work, I assume. May be better to use Humbrol or any other enamel paint. But I am not sure if the sanding procedure proposed works together with this kind of paint. Any experience? Clark
  17. Clark
    Glad you are back. "Notebook" is an excellent idea. Clark
  18. Clark
    When building the hatch coamings, I put the lids at a higher position than recommended in the Corel plans. Regarding the coamings for the anchor line, it should probably only protect the hole in the deck from water flooding in. Nevertheless, the rope would be damaged if pulled along the edges. Thus I added a protection. The hatch coamings had to be tapered due to the sloping deck line in the line from the middle to the hull. It is necessary to keep the upper line of the hatch coamings horizontal since the footplates of the oarsmen will be attached later. To put the coamings in place, ship had to fixed. Hull was protected with painter tape. Ship was put in the slipway, levelled again and fixed by balsa/foam supports. Since I was afraid that the long stem post might get broken (it is really a long and small hull), it was covered by balsa pieces.
  19. Clark
    Thanks a lot, Frank. Did you have the chance to get back to the bench? I am eager to read news of your progress. Your report is more than inspiring. Clark
  20. Clark
    I decided to reseal the hull. I sanded it (grade 120, 180, 320) which took me about one week. It is really not the job I like. After sanding, I sealed it with the water based diluted (~20% H2O) acrylic varnish. Corel material of the supports for the middle gangway and thwarts is made of plywood. The best way may be to replace them by normal wood. I relied on the ones provided by Corel. I stained them mahogany to cover the plywood character a bit. Next step is building the hatch coamings.
  21. Clark
    Meanwhile I have tested other varnishes and oils on walnut pieces. Finally, I found one on acrylic basis and tried it on part of the hull sanded. In the photo below, the glossy varnish (Nelson) can be seen on one side and on the other side the acrylic one (water diluted/surrounded by painter tape) on the other side . I will put the ship aside and have another glance on it.
  22. Clark
    When starting the Reale, I shortly hesitated to paint it to get nearer to the orignal one. It is probably a never ending discussion if wood ships should be painted or not. I am a fan of the wood structure, thus I will probalby stain only the plywood pieces.
  23. Clark
    I like the wood structure to be visible. Thus I only want to seal the wood with varnish. Im will probably sand the old varnish down. Clark
  24. Clark
    Hull was covered with diluted mat clear varnish (Nelson). I have tested the varnish on several pieces of wood before. I was a bit shocked after the drying of the varnish. The hull is much too glossy. Have to think about.
  25. Clark
    Not much progress in the meantime. But the kit and plans urges one to think not only about the next two steps. Shortened nails were put into the keel for the (much) later fixation of the ship in the final supports. Final supports were already dry fitted since this will probably much more difficult with all the stuff on the deck. Final supports provided by Corel were covered with walnut strips on all sides to hide the plywood character. However, I am not sure if I will really use the Corel supports at the end. Final supports were also adjusted with the ship on them. For levelling in the longitudinal axis, the difference in height between the two support points was extrapolated from the Corel plan. Same points measured on the ship when put on the supports had only a small greater difference (~0.5 mm) than in the plan. I did not correct it. Levelling in the vertical axis (starboard / portside) was a bit more tricky and done with the help of spirit levels and caliper. Wood/foam supports were adapted for following mounting and fixation in the slipway.

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