mtdoramike

Ty for the likes everyone, Hi Lawrence- since that photo the primer has been sanded back and the bottoms had a final coat of grey primer. I will be using copper plates cut from self adhesive copper tape (dolls house tape). Took another shot to show the castings compared to to billings laser cut ply ones- either billings are under scale or sergal are over scale!

Keith
 

Yes, those are very nice instructions for sure.

Planking of the hull is pretty much finished, now it's more fit and finish of the hull. Here comes the rasp, file, palm sander and good old fashioned sand paper and elbow grease hahahahaha.
 
Mike

I hated covering that beautiful hull with primer. But it's one of those decisions that a modeler has to ultimately make sooner than later, like paint or not to paint. There really was no decision for me, although I loved the look of the wood, this is the Victory and there are two models that to me almost require painting and the Vic is one of them. But of course, this is also determined at what juncture you are modeling the ship for.

I have all the gun ports lined and now starting on the stern castle section. I'm trying to follow Lawrence's build as close to as possible refer to: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2241-hms-victory-by-canoe21-lawrence-al-scale-184/page-4 hence the design on the stern castle flooring. But I'm also trying to stay as true to the kit as possible with limited modifications. I notched into the hull section coming back toward the Stern flooring because I want to leave as much of the sides as possible for added support for the windows or at least until I get them. 

If you think that is a great price, check out this link to Oakridge Hobbies, which is where I purchased the Victory from and they have the Artesania Latina HMS Surprise for the same price I paid for the Victory kit @ $567.00. Also at that time they offered free shipping so I don't know if that still applies or not. http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/hobby-shop/plastic-wood-hobby-model-kits/artesania-latina-tall-ships-models-wooden-boat-models-wooden-ship-model-kits/artesania-latina-h-m-s-surprise-1796-wooden-ship-model-kit.html

If you think that is a great price, check out this link to Oakridge Hobbies, which is where I purchased the Victory from and they have the Artesania Latina HMS Surprise for the same price I paid for the Victory kit @ $567.00. Also at that time they offered free shipping so I don't know if that still applies or not. http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/hobby-shop/plastic-wood-hobby-model-kits/artesania-latina-tall-ships-models-wooden-boat-models-wooden-ship-model-kits/artesania-latina-h-m-s-surprise-1796-wooden-ship-model-kit.html

I have all the gun ports lined and now starting on the stern castle section. I'm trying to follow Lawrence's build as close to as possible refer to: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2241-hms-victory-by-canoe21-lawrence-al-scale-184/page-4 hence the design on the stern castle flooring. But I'm also trying to stay as true to the kit as possible with limited modifications. I notched into the hull section coming back toward the Stern flooring because I want to leave as much of the sides as possible for added support for the windows or at least until I get them. 

I have all the gun ports lined and now starting on the stern castle section. I'm trying to follow Lawrence's build as close to as possible refer to: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2241-hms-victory-by-canoe21-lawrence-al-scale-184/page-4 hence the design on the stern castle flooring. But I'm also trying to stay as true to the kit as possible with limited modifications. I notched into the hull section coming back toward the Stern flooring because I want to leave as much of the sides as possible for added support for the windows or at least until I get them. 

More timber added to the stern and made a start scratchbuilding some replacement catheads to replace the ply ones from the kit- someone gave me some hawthorn branches to chop for firewood and decided to use some of this- been seasoning in the shed for 12 months till i found a use for it!


Ply catheads on the left

keith

Thanks drag, I'll keep updating.,

Your kidding right? Getting glue off your fingers? That is what ship modeling is all about. I wouldn't know how it felt to NOT have glue on my finger tips hahahahahaha.
 
Mike

Your kidding right? Getting glue off your fingers? That is what ship modeling is all about. I wouldn't know how it felt to NOT have glue on my finger tips hahahahahaha.
 
Mike

Your kidding right? Getting glue off your fingers? That is what ship modeling is all about. I wouldn't know how it felt to NOT have glue on my finger tips hahahahahaha.
 
Mike

hope all goes well for y a there so far the ship is looking real good

Your kidding right? Getting glue off your fingers? That is what ship modeling is all about. I wouldn't know how it felt to NOT have glue on my finger tips hahahahahaha.
 
Mike

Well I got the hull puttied, primed and painted brown, in case a copper plate isn't placed exact and the hull shines through hahahaha. I have a couple of coats of paint on the hull, which will later get sprayed with a clear satin laquer or poly to seal it thoroughly before copper plating. I also found while checking the wood dowels for the masts that the dowel for the main mast is warped like a snake sun bathing. Fortunately these will be painted so no harm there. I will just have to replace them with cheap dowels from my local hardware store. The odds of finding walnut dowels in my area would be useless.   

Wow, that stern section looks gorgeous. Wonderful job.

I hated covering that beautiful hull with primer. But it's one of those decisions that a modeler has to ultimately make sooner than later, like paint or not to paint. There really was no decision for me, although I loved the look of the wood, this is the Victory and there are two models that to me almost require painting and the Vic is one of them. But of course, this is also determined at what juncture you are modeling the ship for.

Alle Jahre wieder (Every year again), also known as "every decade the dafi manages to finish something" ...
 

 
... my small slice of in between meal is served  ...
 

 
... and lives ...
 

 
... while you can hear the chant "By the deep 17" ...
 

 
... the lieutenant and his midi are listening carefully ...
 

 
... and whisper it further with the speaking trumpet.
 
In the same time the crew ...
 

 
... with her own calm ...
 

 
... and sangfroid ...
 

 
... brings up a new rope.
 

 
And as the story was so great, here the whole picture :-)
 

 
Now only missing a new passe-partout and some good pictures,
 
cheers, enjoy and have fun, the dafi

I actually fixed the first rows of copper on this weekend. Here are some impressions:       It is nice to see the difference between the new material and the old paint. It was good to have the paint underneath, as to make minimal gaps not too visible :-) I use masking tape to protekt the black paint from the glue, otherwise it will take out good chunks - just guess how I found out :-(   BTW: The glory for bringing this ingenious material to my attention belongs to a chap in a german forum, who presented this technik on a wooden Santissima Trinidad.   the copper is rather cheap  Look in the internet for suppliers of Tiffany lamp builders, you need two rolls of 4 mm, self adhesive.

The first supplier to pop up in google is this one: 
http://www.nickates.com/cart/catalog/Foil-84-1.html
And there are plenty more! Check the prices and delivery charges.

The tape belongs to this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_came_ ... _glasswork

I use colors from Citadel that usually is used for World of Warcraft. 
Chaos Black 61-51
Skull White 61-54
Enchanted blue 61-34
Scorched Brown 61-12 (dark brown)
Foundation:
Iyanden Darksun 68-04 (Yellow)
Mechrite Red 68-01 (Red Earth)
(oh I love the other names like "Red Gore", "Vomit Brown", "Rotting Flesh" und "Graveyard Earth")

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catal ... ints-tools

These colours are great and they don´t smell. I have to build in the living room and so my family does not moan any more!

Jep, you got me, for the lower gundeck I used balsa: easy to work with, a razor blade and some sanding paper is all the tools you need. The poor quality of the surface is no problem in the dark dungeons of this deck 

For the wooden deck this will be very time consuming and needs also skills on wood working. So be careful! Anyway, first always go for the basic work and don´t get lost in the details! First the hull has to be ready, befor one should think of the details! I learned my lesson too, how to focus onto the next step. Not that you have just lovely details, but the ship is missing    Greetings Daniel

It was a funny last months working and it was surprising. Here are the results of all the work: So close to each other the normal peoples eyes and yet far beyond!
 
To see and feel the differences I did some small montages. Just try to find out by yourselves, what is the old and what is the new:
 

 

 

 

 

 
And here the story was really beginning to take off,  to speak in the words of Buzz Lightyear: To HMS Victory and beyond!
 
Greetings Daniel

I retook the entry ports and reworked the steps:
 

 
The crew went happy as they got redefined toilet seats :-) No one to fall through the too big holes any more ;-)
 

 
The beakhaed grating got its supporting structure following the frames plan and the small slides are implemented to save the gammoning from the sailors shi..... ;-)
 

 
The stem got the splitlines of the single parts that it was composed from. Impossible with the once horizontal woodstructure ;-)
 

 
And the entry ports got some facimilie paneling painting
 

 
 
And finally I was able to redo the painting. Hallelulja!
 

 

 

 
And finally the overview that looks on the first look so much like 6 month ago!
 

One feature on my list of major changes are the decks: That I am not a fan any more of the wood structures I mentioned already, didn´t I ? 
 
;-)
 
Consequentely this applied for the deck planking too - off course!
 
The idea is to replace the visible decks by real wood: Painted wood in plastic, visible woob in real wood. Tests were carried out to find the suitable technic and hre are the results:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
So I can easily show the 3- and 4-but-shift system for the planking including the waterway, whitch will be a great addition to the detailing :-)
 
I think, the two materials work great together and give a nice feeling to the ensemble :-) Looking already forewards for the first visible deck.
 
This addition of materials would also apply to the masts and spars, whitch by the way will replace the too flexible plastic parts of the top rigging
 
Be warned: There are a lot of questions upon the deck planking coming up :-)

Next came the lower gundeck:
 
New elm tree pumps:
 

 
The cain pumps
 

 
The capstans

 
Manger and riding bits
 

 

 
The overviews
 

 

 
The pillars will still come and there is in the moment the question how the ancer cables and the mesanger will be presented: manger up/down, where doe the messanger go exately, loops over the riding bits etc ...