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mtdoramike
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mtdoramike reacted to kurtvd19 in AZTEK Airbrush Set
AZTEK AIRBRUSH SET
This is the deluxe set of the Aztek Airbrush – I think it was produced by Testor’s. I have never used this brush and have not tested it. But it was formerly owned by the late Steve Wheeler and he took great care of his tools and it appears to be immaculate.
This does not include an air hose or instruction book. SOLD
Cost is $25 plus USPS shipping (at exact cost) US & Canada only. PayPal preferred.
Please reply by PM.
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mtdoramike reacted to kurtvd19 in Airbrush Set - Badger 150
BADGER 150 DOUBLE ACTION AIRBRUSH SET SOLD
The Badger 150 is an exceptionally reliable airbrush made to provide the modeler with an airbrush able to spray any type of paint or finish. It is a double action, internal mix unit. Internal mix airbrushes provide the best finish when using an airbrush. Double action airbrushes are not the best choice for beginners.
This airbrush set is complete with fine, medium, and large orifice spray heads and matching needle sets, a braided air hose, two sizes of paint bottles and a 1/4 oz. color cup for small jobs.
The medium needle/spray head set up is currently in place as it is the most used in painting model ships.
To purchase this new today would cost at least $150.
I have tested this set and can assure the purchaser it works great. It was previously owned by the late Steve Wheeler and was used to paint several models that all won gold awards in competition at the WI Maritime Museum contests. Some of the models also won best of show awards. YOUR RESULTS MIGHT VARY.
The price is $50 plus normal USPS shipping (at exact cost) US and Canada only. The proceeds will go to the WI Maritime Museum in Manitowoc, WI. PayPal preferred. Please reply by PM.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
looks a might better. I will have to wait a week or so before laying fiber glass due to the pending storm and humidity levels. I have learned from experience to never work with fiber glass and resin when humidity levels are running high because the resin doesn't want to cure properly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from schooner in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
looks a might better. I will have to wait a week or so before laying fiber glass due to the pending storm and humidity levels. I have learned from experience to never work with fiber glass and resin when humidity levels are running high because the resin doesn't want to cure properly.
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mtdoramike reacted to CDW in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
Sounds like you and I attended the same institution, the school of hard knocks.
Shaping up nicely, Mike.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from Moab in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
looks a might better. I will have to wait a week or so before laying fiber glass due to the pending storm and humidity levels. I have learned from experience to never work with fiber glass and resin when humidity levels are running high because the resin doesn't want to cure properly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from lmagna in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
looks a might better. I will have to wait a week or so before laying fiber glass due to the pending storm and humidity levels. I have learned from experience to never work with fiber glass and resin when humidity levels are running high because the resin doesn't want to cure properly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from schooner in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from coxswain in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from lmagna in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from mtaylor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from CDW in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I temporarily installed the motors so that I could get the drive train lined up with the motors and the struts so that I could epoxy in the stuffing tubes for the drive shaft. Once the stuffing tubes were epoxied in, I applied some bondo over the stuffing tube channels as well as the base of the struts. Then I will sand, apply and sand and apply until I can get a decent smooth surface to apply some fiber glass cloth and epoxy it in over the stuffing tube channels as well as the bases of the struts. I hope this make sense. I know it looks like crap now, but It will beautify shortly.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
Nope, not unless you eat it😁 Although, I would recommend wearing rubber gloves when applying it. I have heard of folks developing allergic reactions after working with epoxy, but that is after working with it for years.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
Your bravery test as with all of these models is cutting out the slot(s) for the stuffing tubes. It's really hard to cut into that perfectly smooth hull that you spent hours fiber glassing, puttying, sanding, sanding, sanding only to take a hobby knife to it to cut out the slots, hoping that they are in alignment with the motor and the struts. But no worries mate, you will have to fill the voids around the stuffing tubes with resin and bondo and then a layer of fiber glass cloth, then sand, sand and more sanding. You really do have to love doing this stuff.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I cut out the slots for the running hardware stuffing tubes and drive shafts, epoxied the drive shaft struts to the outside bottom of the hull and preparing the area between frames 8-9 for the motor mounting deck, which is a 1/4" piece of plywood. The running hardware kit comes with written as well as diagrammed instruction for the running gear installation, but like my wife points out frequently, I'm not much at following directions hahahaha.
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mtdoramike reacted to chris watton in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
Coronet looks nice. But then, most sea going sailing vessels look nice - but not all graceful like that one..
Here are the sample cannon barrels I received last week. The ones on carriages are a 9-pounder and 18 pounder. The rest are 12 pounder (lone standard and one for an early 32 gun frigate), 24 and 32 pounders. The retail versions will be in black resin, these are grey so I can more easily see the detail.
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mtdoramike reacted to ccoyle in Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
That depends on how one defines the word "yacht." America's Cup racers are relatively well-represented (numerous versions of America, Mamoli's Puritan, Amati's Endeavour, etc.), but the really elegant sailing and motor yachts of yesteryear are not on anyone's radar. Chris may recall that at one time I suggested that he look into doing a kit of Coronet, which is currently being restored at the International Yacht Restoration School, so lots of info on her construction should be available. Sadly, though, I think that a kit of any of these glamorous vessels would only ever appeal to a small slice of our membership, since they don't have the requisite lots of guns. So as Chris hinted, something like this is probably best reserved until after he gets an established basic lineup in place.
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mtdoramike reacted to BobG in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I think my faculties are still good enough that I wouldn't do that...not so sure 10 years from now!
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mtdoramike got a reaction from CDW in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
Nope, not unless you eat it😁 Although, I would recommend wearing rubber gloves when applying it. I have heard of folks developing allergic reactions after working with epoxy, but that is after working with it for years.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from CDW in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I cut out the slots for the running hardware stuffing tubes and drive shafts, epoxied the drive shaft struts to the outside bottom of the hull and preparing the area between frames 8-9 for the motor mounting deck, which is a 1/4" piece of plywood. The running hardware kit comes with written as well as diagrammed instruction for the running gear installation, but like my wife points out frequently, I'm not much at following directions hahahaha.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from CDW in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
Your bravery test as with all of these models is cutting out the slot(s) for the stuffing tubes. It's really hard to cut into that perfectly smooth hull that you spent hours fiber glassing, puttying, sanding, sanding, sanding only to take a hobby knife to it to cut out the slots, hoping that they are in alignment with the motor and the struts. But no worries mate, you will have to fill the voids around the stuffing tubes with resin and bondo and then a layer of fiber glass cloth, then sand, sand and more sanding. You really do have to love doing this stuff.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from ccoyle in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I cut out the slots for the running hardware stuffing tubes and drive shafts, epoxied the drive shaft struts to the outside bottom of the hull and preparing the area between frames 8-9 for the motor mounting deck, which is a 1/4" piece of plywood. The running hardware kit comes with written as well as diagrammed instruction for the running gear installation, but like my wife points out frequently, I'm not much at following directions hahahaha.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I Bit the bullet the other day and ordered the running hardware package for the Crockett. There were a couple of drive shafts in the kit when I got it, but not the whole running hardware kit, which for I believe was not included with the Dumas Crockett kit when sold by Dumas. I thought I could cheap my way out of it by piecing the running hardware together with what ever I could find. But in the end, it wouldn't have been much cheaper. So I broke down and spent the $148.00 for the running hardware kit.
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mtdoramike got a reaction from popeye the sailor in USS Crockett by mtdoramike - FINISHED - Dumas
I was finally able to glass the inside and outside of the Crockett hull. The rain and humidity let up enough for a few days I finally got to it. I'm doing some finishing touches to the main cabin as well as cutting out the stuffing tube slots in the hull for the drive shafts. I decided to cut out a couple of the solid frames toward the front of the hull so that I can slide some ballast weight towards the front if needed.
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