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Everything posted by Jack12477
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Tom, I would recommend Tamiya 1:35 scale kits. The parts fit together so precisely it takes little time to build one, quality is top notch, they even include poly-caps that allow wheels, etc to turn with ease. And there is a wide range of armor types to chose from. Take the plunge. I get my kits from MegaHobby in NJ , ordered 3 kits last Monday before noon, arrived Wed at noon this week.
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After debating whether to build one of the new tank kits I just acquired, or an aircraft, car or ship model kit, I decided on one of the tanks. I am building the Tamiya 1:35 scale US Medium M4A3 Sherman 105 mm Howitzer Assault Support tank as it appeared in December 1944 at Ardennes or the Battle of the Bulge, (see box art below). The kit actually comes in two version, the second being 1945 Germany. I chose this version more for the paint scheme than any other reason. The other version is a plain olive drab overall color. The kit comes with 9 sprues, tank body 2 halves, and 2 tank treads. It's molded in a dark green, olive drab, color. There are also 5 figures with the kit, tank driver and commander, plus 3 infantry figures. I have not decided yet on how I will display this when done. Maybe a diorama, but who knows. Anyway, the journey begins.
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In the 1940s and 1950s our USCG helos were bright yellow also, for the centennial of Coast Guard aviation they painted a few yellow like the JayHawk below: Haven't started a new build yet , still debating what I want to do. But I will definitely welcome you aboard when I do. Thanks for the compliments.
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Well, it is now finished. All the decals are applied, the final fiddly bits attached, radio antenna wired, and a coat of floor wax applied to seal everything and give it a nice gloss finish. Now to find a place to display it in my ever shrinking display areas. Thanks for following along, the comments, critiques, and assorted off-topic side conversations - enjoyed them all. Photos follow: In case anyone is wondering, it carries the markings for Coast Guard Air Station Traverse City (Michigan , I believe) Stay tuned for the next incarceration build
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Mark, EG, thanks for the information. After I left the Army I didn't pay much attention to anything military, was to busy learning how to program the operating system for large mainframe computers. Got interested in the Tamiya tank kits after seeing them at my local hobby shop. Kinda did what RGL is doing with his ship models. Picked US, British and German WWII tanks that "struck my fancy" and built them, but didn't do much digging into their history.
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Don't know for sure, Lou. When I left Army it was still in development, working the bugs out of the system. But from the damage it did to turret, barrel, and tank after the in-bore, I would say yes. I remember one of the engineers commenting "now if we can just hit the enemy tank". I don't know how it performed in service.
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The Sheridan/Shillelagh weapon system was under development at the Arsenal I was stationed at, my civilian boss was the Project Manager. Yes, I placed the order online Monday around 1100 hrs and it shipped that same day. Only had to come from Magnolia NJ to Catskill Mtns area. 😁😁😁😁 Why the minority on Sherman? BTW this model is for Ardennes, Battle of Bulge. Haven't opened the box yet to see what extras they threw in but box says it has a lot of accessories to add. This is my 3rd air defense model. I had built the Sgt York Air Defense tank some years ago plus the German AA half track.. if I line them all up I have some massive fire power (in miniature, of course) but then one can never have enough can one
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I think the Auburn and the Cord were guaranteed from factory to also top 100 MPH. The Auburn Boattail Speedster was powered by a 4.6L straight eight that, with the popular supercharger option (150 hp), could top 100 mph (160 km/h). And The Cord 810, and later Cord 812, produced by the Cord Automobile division of the Auburn Automobile Company in 1936 and 1937 was the first American-designed and built front wheel drive car with independent front suspension. My Dad's mechanic, whom Dad insured, bought a Cord (don't remember which model or model year), restored it and drove it around for years. When he bought it the idler gear was cracked, so he had to make a new one from scratch. This is going to be a fun kit to watch. BTW that is a beautifully restored model in those photos.
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Ok, shiny BBs installed, super glue dried, ready to button up the bottom hatch. Time to start working on the decals before I install any of the remaining fiddly bits. Ole fumble fingers will surely destroy them if I don't wait till the decals are on. But now she sits nice and level. In a prior post I promised to post some close up photos of the rotor assembly - they follow First the assembly steps - parts # B1 + B9 and A7 are the top half of the rotor shaft B1 shaft is just inserted, not glued into the other parts. This assembly then glues into the parts B18. then up thru B28 to attach to cap B29. This is what disabled the rotation. Notice also that there are NO do not glue symbols anywhere on the assembly instructions. With the rotor assembly dry fit into position.
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