Jack12477

I recently placed an order for some Hobby Zone Products with Hobby World USA. It was my first time dealing with Hobby World and I could not be happier. Ordering was easy, but I would call or email to check stock because their website is not always up to date. My entire order was shipped promptly and received within 1 week.
 
I ordered the following three items.
All arrived well packed and undamaged. As you can see in the picture my limited work area is becoming quite cluttered so it was time for some extra storage space.

 
I thought I would do a sort of review/build log of these products. The building slip has been pretty well covered in another thread so I won't rehash what has already been done. I started with the easiest one, the wall unit storage.
 
The illustrated instructions were very simple and easy to follow.

 

 
I started by laying out and checking all of the pieces. All were nicely router cut with no chips or marks that I could see. Overall the fit and finish of the parts was exceptional.
 

The only exception was the Logo oddly enough. However because this particular unit is symmetrical I was able to turn the back panel over and build it with out the logo showing. The fit on all of the parts is quite snug and required some light taps with a hammer in some cases. I decided to dry fit each assembly before actually gluing them.
 

The first step is to build three main sub assemblies. I used the back plate as a sort of jig for building these by gluing up the assembly then making sure that there was no glue on the back edges I "Plugged it into the back panel and let it dry. This way I was sure that when it came time for the final assembly everything would line up.
After assembling the three sub assemblies together the back panel is glued in place. This was kind of daunting as there were so many slots and tabs to apply and spread glue on. Then aligning them for assembly before the glue started to set up was a little tricky. This is where dry fitting at each step came in handy.
 

The three drawers were fairly straight forward.
 

I would say that this was a fun and useful little project. The assembly to this point was done in one afternoon. No doubt it could be hung up and used just as it is. But I will do some light sanding to ease some of the edges and apply a couple coats of oil based poly before loading it up.
 
I am guessing that the bench top unit will go together in much the same way. I will update when I get going on it.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 

Well, after I fixed breakfast and got the Admiral packed off to the Renaissance Festival I had no problem finishing the carcass for the bench top piece. Again a little light sanding and a couple coats of poly and this one will be done.

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

The casing of Pegasus took place yesterday, one of the most stressful operations since constructing the Headworks.
Slipping the cover over Pegasus with only a few mm clearance each side of the Main Studding Booms ends and Jib boom was scary to say the least.
 
Still all done now, and here she is in her designated place.





 
Moving on now, to what not quite decided.
 
B.E.
 

For those who may be vaguely curious about the face behind the model, here's yours truly posing with Pegasus before she is cased.

 
B.E.
 

Thanks to all who clicked the like button.
 
This is Day Ten, November 23, 2017.  Thanksgiving in the USA.
I decided to tackle the two motor launches and the two sloops supplied in the kit. As you can see on the pics below, they are rather small as is everything on this model. I dreaded to remove the PE from the sheet because of its size. The steering wheels for the motor launch are 1.8 mm in diameter!  I had to do some filing on the PE seats for the sloops to make them fit, not much but did not want to run the chance of them buckling. Then the oars, there are 8 per sloop and all individual, which caused some trouble cementing them to the seats. I guess I could have lashed them with some silk threat but that thought came too late.
They are ready for paint after I have cleaned them thoroughly.
 
Okay, this is all for today, I have to get my but into the kitchen and help Gwen with cooking our simple Thanksgiving dinner. Seasoned turkey breast, pan sauteed in a white wine sauce with mushrooms, rice, asparagus, cauliflower and carrots.  We'll have a glass of that white wine to go with it.
 

I managed to cement those tiny steering wheels in place without a hitch. The rudders were no problem for a change. They'll be painted in the medium grey and the seats in wood color.
 

I placed the #11 blade next the sloops to indicate their small size. The motor launches are even smaller. The seats and oars will be painted in wood color and the boats in te light grey.
 
Again, not much of excitement but it's a pleasure seeing progress, even if it's slow.
 
Cheers,

This post will reflect work done on days 8 and nine, November 21 and 22, 2017.
Day 8 - no work done due to many things needed around the house. I planned on at least to make a start with fashioning an anchor for the one that got away but got only as far as selecting a brass rod. So, I figured the next day I could make an effort.
 
Yes indeed, first thing in the morning of the 22d of November I was able to go into my garage work shop and give it a go.
The brass rod I laid out yesterday was 0.5 mm and I figured that it would suffice for a 1:350 scale anchor. I flattened first one end, then bend it to form a U and flattened the opposing side and cut it off.  The flattened parts did not really give much material to make the flukes but went ahead anyway. After I had something like what looked like flukes I soldered a piece of 0.5 mm rod to it for the stock. Dummy me, I forgot to bring the kit anchor with me and comparing the two mine was way too small. Bummer.
 
Hmmm, now what. I found a square brass rod of 0.8 mm. This may do the trick.  I proceeded the same way as before with the 0.5 mm rod. I used a steel punch to hammer the end nice and flat with a lot of material for the flukes. Bend it around, matching the kit anchor and did the same with the opposite side. Then cut the crudely fashioned part into what looks like an anchor, off of the rod. Filed flukes to it and shaped it to match it with the kit anchor as best as I could. Holding this tiny piece between my left hand fingers was a challenge.  Soldered a piece of 0.5 mm rod to the center for the stock, dressed it some more and painted it flat black. Now I was careful matching it with the kit anchor.
 
Not too bad, not good but okay for the stern.  All this took about 2 1/2 hours of my time.
 
Below are the pics of my efforts.
 

First I tried wacking it with a hammer to one of my bucking bars but that proved difficult in aiming. I resorted to using a half inch diameter punch with better results.
 

Here I show that the bend matches the kit anchor. I added the #11 blade for size comparison.
 

Here we see both sides flattened enough to fashion the flukes. Ready to be cut off.
 

Here I have placed the 0.5 mm brass rod to where it is to to be soldered. After the soldering is done I'll dress it down some more.
 

Here we see my scratch build anchor completed and next to the kit anchor, the one with the eyelet on the end. No, I was not planning to add that too because I am sticking that end into the hole on the hull.
 

This is my first attempt that turned out too small, good practice piece.
 
Cheers,

Carl:
Thanks. There is work either way. Either you will have to carefully sand the entire underside of the coaming to fit onto the planking, fitting to both the sheer and the camber of the deck,  or carefully fit the planking to allow the coaming to sit into the recess. I have tried it both ways, and fitting the planking is easier, especially if you take some time to make carefully cut jigs to layout where the planking ends. It is really just a matter of which option you prefer. 
 
Russ
 
 

Oh, you tricky faker! Looks good, though....

Thank you guys.  I wanted to show the test set up with one of the actual cherry frames in position.  This will be an actual frame I use on the model as opposed to the other tests I posted.  This final version is slightly different in that it is done with chocks.  You can see the chock between the futtock and toptimber .   Its is not an actual chock but it is impossible to tell the difference.  I just used a laser etched line to complete the appearance of a chock and it only shows on one side of the frame.  This is important for the outside frames because it completes the look of actual framing practices.  But the other side just shows the simple scarf joint.
 
The frames will be so close together that you wont be able to see that.  To complete the simulation, I just drew a line with a very sharp pencil along the inboard edge of the frame.  This will have to be redone once the inboard frames are faired but you can see how nice it looks.  It will make the open framed port side look really authentic.  Especially after treenailing is done.  If you really wanted to, you could complete the illusion on the other side of each frame with a pencil...but seriously it would be impossible to see.
 

Primed and sanded and primed and sanded. Here's the latest. Couple of blemishes left but am pretty chuffed - not bad for a Sunday's work.
Ragove - agree. She was a peach in real life as well, especially in full sail. Hope to do her justice.
Keith - thanks! It's 1:75
Next up is blemish removal and working out what to do for the waterline. Need to do some research.

I've been going since start of Jan. Few progress pics here:
   

Here is the main hatch coaming. My Model Machines 4 inch table saw was handy in making the half lapped joints at the corners. The coaming sits down into the deck planking so the fit will work out well. This is much better than sitting it on top of the planking. 
 
Russ

Prototyping the keel parts.  These are all in cherry.  I have laser cut the false keel, keel, and rising wood.  They have holes in them for the screws that will hold it to the baseboard which are also laser cut.  Note the hex holes for the captive nuts laser cut into the rising wood.  The rising wood is also pre-notched to position the frames.  One of my test frames is being tested for its fit and it all seems good.  All of the layers for the keel assembly were laser cut somewhat wider than needed so there would be plenty of meat left on the parts.  This extra meat will allow someone to vigorously sand the laser char from the edges AFTER assembly without worrying that you will sand too much off which would then cause a problem.  You can get these pieces nice and clean as you can see by the keel that I finished.
 

 
I havent cut the rabbet yet but that is coming next.  I am laser cutting a tool that will hopefully help make creating the rabbet a lot easier.  I am going to build this one in Cherry.  Now that all of the notches and holes have been squared away as far as drafting is concerned...I can move forward with drafting the remaining 18 frames.  That will be a slow process.
 
Chuck

Nice progress Ed, this little lady is looking great!
 
cheers
 
Pat

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 266 – Fore Lower Topsail Yard Continued
 
Apart from the braces that will be installed later, the last items of rigging on the lower topsail yards were the buntlines.  There are two on each side.  In the absence of sails these are stopped at the buntline blocks on top of the yard as shown in the first picture.
 

 
Buntlines are normally passed through blocks on the underside of the tops or crosstrees at the head of their associated mast, but with the addition of the second topsail yard, the lower topsail buntlines are rigged through double blocks seized to the forward topsail shrouds as shown.  The starboard side is shown in the next picture.
 

 
From these double blocks the lines run down through fairlead holes in the top, inside the shrouds, through the fairleads on the #2 shrouds, and are belayed on the main pin rail on each side.  These lines may be seen passing vertically down from the shroud blocks through the top in the next picture.
 

 
The lower ends of these lines may be seen belayed at the side in the next picture.
 

 
You may note that in these pictures the shroud lanyards have been re-wrapped above the deadeyes.  These were unwound earlier to re-tension the shrouds and backstays as mentioned in an earlier post.  The running rigging of the two lower yards has also been tensioned, secured at the pins with some dilute glue and the excess line clipped off.  The clutter of these unsecured lines on the deck and above was becoming an unsightly nuisance, so it was time to get everything neatly secured.  The next picture shows the forward deck cleared of excess rope.
 

 
One of the next steps will be to make and add rope coils at the belaying points.  The lower yard tacks and lazy tacks are still only temporarily belayed until the sheets are rigged later.
 
 
Ed

Managed to get all the drawers done in the past few evenings. There are a few more in this one
 
I should have plenty of time tomorrow to finish this one. The Admiral will be at the Renaissance Festival all day.

Hello All!
 
Long time lurker, finally a member and building my first wooden boat model.
 
I have been a 1/35 military modeler for the past 43 years, and finally decided to make the jump to something that had really captivated me for so many years, the wooden ship miniature.
 
As my first wooden ship kit, I have selected the Panart Lancia Armata; hull has been completed, and currently in the interior rib/structure process.  As soon as I have some good pics and time to upload, will share with you for your critique.  Pice below are merely phone pics.
I have purchased already my second kit, a Model Shipways Pinnace designed by Chuck Passaro...  it seems a much mode delicate build, so it will be a nice challenge as well.
 
A pleasure, and glad to have finally made the jump!
 
Regards,
 
Jorge

Hello,
after a short break, the report continues again.
First of all, I would like to thank you for the nice comments and the many LIKES.
Today I'll show you how to make the ninepin blocks. These are located behind the foremast and the mainmast.
These are single and double blocks, which are guided on an iron bar.
The fittings I manufacture from brass strips with a width of 0.8 mm.
 

Quelle: Monographie La Crèole 1827 v. J. Boudriot


Continuation follows ...

@cog
Hello Carl,
here I show a comparison of both steering gears.
I think that now it is better
I promise: I will not grumble any more ...

@JOUFF
@cog
Thanks for the kind words.
 
It continues with the construction of the steering gear.
The previous version was also not satisfactory.

Here I show the trial assembly. Only when it can be ensured that everything fits, then the steering gear comes on the ship model.

 

Happy New Year!

I had made the steering wheel for the La Creole some time ago.
In the meantime, I am no longer satisfied with it.
So I decided to do it again.
Here are some pictures:

Hi druxey,
 
I tapered the plank down to about 1 ½" oversize at the rabbet, leaving room for some leveling. The temporary batten above the wales is not tapered, and is blocking our view of the tapered plank below in these photos. Incidentally, this was also causing me some problems in seeing if the plank was truly clamped tight at this point, one of the reasons I made the custom clamping block to ensure a tight fit. Next time I should taper the batten as well.
 
And thanks for checking. It is easy to lose track of details in these complex, multi-step phases. I forgot to trim the length of the first plank before I steamed it, and so had to pare it back while holding the curved surface steady on a cutting block. Would have been easier if I had done it when the piece was flat.
 
It was thrilling to see all of the teams march into the Olympic stadium last night. Young people all over the world united in a common cause of attempting to achieve their very best! And there was a ship and a boat....
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Thank you, Gary, druxey and Håkan for your kind comments. It helps me keep going.
 
druxey, thank you for confirming that I should work on the port side top two strakes, before going back to the starboard lower two strakes. I want to trap the frame on both sides as close to the same time as possible, when the humidity is roughly the same. I worry about unequal pull on the two sides if one is restrained and the other is not when the humidity changes.
 
Last time, I fiddled with a variety of clamps at the bow. This time, I fashioned a wooden block that can be clamped against the bow by way of the back of the stem. It provides a good, clean, simple way of clamping. I need to take the time to make special clamps like this in the future; worth the extra time for a clean assembly process.
 
I also experimented with steaming and clamping the top plank on the port side directly to the hull, not to my former. The next day, the spring-back was so great that I steamed the piece again and clamped it in the former, now upside down, to make the piece symmetrical to the starboard piece. It now lays nicely against the hull.
 
Time to watch the Olympics!
 
Mark
 
 

Thank you, Alan and Mike, for encouraging incremental posts on the wales construction. Here is the next phase.
 
The sternmost planks of the wales were more challenging than I had expected, with the wicked twist to the stern counter.  I haven't followed up on using a heat gun for bending, so had to wait overnight a few times for the steam bending to dry. I used artists' graphite paper to fit one plank to another. Squeeze the joint together with the paper in between, pull the paper through, and it shows highlights that need to be filed or sanded down. The last hi res photos shows how accurate this can be (thanks, Greg, for encouraging me into the occasional hi res photo). I also made long sanding sticks shaped to the curve of the wales (first photo), which help even up the lower edge ready for the next strake below.
 
I can see that sanding the wale to the counter is going to be challenging, avoiding accidentally marring the finished counter surface. I will leave these a little proud and turn the hull upside down for final shaping when both full wales are in. I can't see clearly enough what is happening with filing when the hull is upright.
 
I think I had better start on the port side before tackling the lower two strakes on the starboard side, just in case I start getting differential pull between the now constrained starboard side and the still unconstrained port side as the humidity changes.
 
Mark