Jack12477

WOW !  Nice models. Thanks.

Okay I understand.  It's like a boarding ladder (échelle d'embarquement).  I may add one to my model.

Thanks for explanation.
 
In the photo below what is the beam (red arrow) used for? Dans la photo ci-dessous ce qui est le faisceau (flèche rouge) utilisé?
 

It sagit of a crutch:
It is hung on, on low tide along the boat and allows to go on board for repair

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 133 – Capstans 1
 
Young America had two capstans, one aft of midship on the main deck and one on the forecastle.  These were lighter and smaller than the massive two-deck capstans we are used to seeing on 18th century warships.  Since the windlass handled the weighing of the anchors, the two capstans were used for lesser loads, for example mooring, raising spars or heavy cargo handling.  These were often ornate, featuring polished brass rings and made of decorative woods like mahogany.  I based the design of the model anchors on American styles described by Campbell in his China Tea Clippers and by Crothers on his drawings of the ship.  I will try to provide an (admittedly incomplete) overview of how these were made.
 
The first step was to make the drumheads.  A picture of one of the finished drumheads mounted on its spindle is shown in the first picture.
 

 
The drumhead, and indeed all the wood parts for these are cherry for the darker color.  The rings and cap are polished brass.  The holes for the capstan bars are 3” square.  The parts are laid on a copy of the drawing made for these – one of the earlier of many revisions.  The realities of working many of the planned details at this scale – like mortises for the whelps, etc. caused me to simplify some of the construction while retaining the essential appearance.
 
The first drumhead parts to be made were the brass rings and caps, so these could be fit to the wood head as it was machined.  The next picture shows one of the rings about to be parted off in the Unimat® lathe.
 

 
The central shaft left in this picture would be used to make the caps.  The next picture shows the rings made for the two capstans plus a spare.
 

 
In the next picture a cylinder is being turned that will be used to make the two cherry heads. 
 

 
The excess length was provided to allow for chucking pieces for each head.  The grain direction of the piece shown is perpendicular to the lathe centerline.  The turning is centered at the tailstock.  Precise centering of these for turning the ring seats and boring the hole for the spindle was critical so that all would be concentric.  The cylinder at this stage was left larger than the 34” diameter drumhead.  In the next picture the first piece is being parted off.
 

 
In the next picture one of the cylinders has been placed in a three-jaw centering chuck on the rotating table on the milling machine and is being centered on the spindle.
 

 
The dial indicator mounted in the spindle was used to center the cylinder within one or two thousandths of an inch using the cross feeds on the mill.  In the next picture a center hole has been bored and the 1/8” milling bits is being used to enlarge the hole to the 14” diameter of the capstan spindle.
 

 
This was done by offsetting the y-feed to the enlarged size then boring the hole by rotating the table.  The rotating table and the y-feed were then used to cut mortises for the capstan bars as shown below.
 

 
The 1/32” end mill was lowered 3” into the end and set using the vertical calibrated mill wheel (z-axis).  When the four cuts (8 slots) were finished, the piece with the chuck was returned to the lathe as shown in the next picture.
 

 
In the picture an oversized top piece is being parted off.  After cleaning out the slots with a small square edged file, the cap was inverted and glued to the cylinder in the lathe as shown below.
 

 
The glue joint is clamped using the flat end of the drill chuck screwed tight with the tail stock wheel.  When dry, this piece was ready for turning the final diameter, fitting the rings, shaping the top, and parting off to yield the piece shown in the first picture.  To be continued…
 
Ed
 

Ofencer29350: Thanks for the photos - those are very impressive models. I notice that only some of the sails are colored. Is there a "pattern"/standard for which sail(s) are colored and which are white or natural. Also in the next to last photo above there is a black/ochre colored square beam with triagular "steps" (??) laying on the deck next to the rack. What is that beam used for?

WOW !  Nice models. Thanks.

and  a website of a replica in britain:
 
http://www.krog-e-barz.com/construction.php

some picture who can help you:
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

 
Agrandir cette imageRéduire cette image Cliquez ici pour la voir à sa taille originale.

WOW !  Nice models. Thanks.

Looks great Jack, She's coming together rather nicely
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Update:
 
Thanks Mobbsie, David and Michael for the advice and especially Michael for the photos.
 
Don't have quite the narrow brass bands shown in Michael's photos but do have some 24 gauge and 26 gauge brass wire I can use as a starter.  I used the heavier gauge wire to simulate the bolt(s) and the thinner for the strop. Bending the loop in the strop was done with a jewelry making pliers I picked up in one of the craft stores. The chainplate on the left in the photo below needs a little adjustment and all need a little cleanup with a Dremel or something. I used medium CA to cement them in place (haven't gotten a chance to practice soldering yet so I didn't want to risk it on this piece).
 
First attempt:
 

 
Current progress - nothing is glued down, just set in place to gauge overall appearance.
 

I found your build log today. Really nice build and a beautyful model. Very well done

Mark, quote is fascinating sentence which lazy George R.R. Martin masterfully used to dramatize and made tense, repeating it several times between short narrations, to describe in a new narrative way dramatic battle for the Fist of the First Men. I like it and was inspired with, trying to dramatize many boring  (un)necessary steps in stand making . I really hope that Martin will continue to inspire us soon, we are waiting more than a long time for Winds of Winter
 
Thanks Piet, I am also near to be satisfied with
 
Thanks Jens, your comments and suggestions are more than a wellcome

Beautiful joinery, Dan. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you for the comments Greg, John, Albert, Neale and Druxey - much appreciated.
 
 
Thanks for the clarification Druxey .
 
Treenailing has finished for a while - there were about 750 in this section. I used 1 1'4" (scale) "nails" in the thicker timbers, and 3/4" in the Footwaling. No finish has been applied yet :
 

 
The Keelson is bolted through the Keel with a Lip Bolt to each frame :
 

 
The Mainmast Step is substantial - 1'10" x 1'8" in section, and 5'3" long. I cut and chiselled the under face to fit the Limber Strakes :
 

 
The completed step. All edges are chamfered :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

hello Daniel...........well,  your right about the mad part       the windows were a bit of a quandary...but I'm getting a handle on them.  now I'm trying to steer her towards calmer waters..........there,  a quicker pace bit of progress can be made.   thanks for the kind comment my friend  

Well done Bill. Really nice work on the cathead sheaves.

Nice work, Bill.  I like the way you did those sheaves and catheads as well as everything else.

I built the mast partners based upon those shown on Ed Tosti's Naiad practicum. I extended the partner for the main mast to allow for the elm tree pumps. With the installation of these I was able to proceed with the planking. I decided to deck most of the starboard side. This still leaves plenty of visibility to the berth deck. I used the equivalent of ¾" pins on the planks and a 4 plank repeat. Caulking was done by heavily rubbing all sides of the planks with #2 graphite. I found graphite sticks for artwork on Amazon and these work much better than just a pencil.


The image below shows the planking pattern and pins.





I put the the test cannon and carronade both forward and amidships to test the fit.









Once the planking was completed, I started work on the bow. The first step for this was the installation of the catheads. I turned brass down for the sheaves then mounted them into the cathead ends. I notched then handrail partially to allow the bottom of the cathead to be flush with the outside of the rail. This will facilitate the installation of the bow beams.

The image below shows the brass sheaves prior to removing them from the lathe. I sized them to be slightly proud of the top of the cathead.





Here is a shot of the catheads installed in the bow.





Lastly, here is a detail shot of the sheaves mounted in the cathead.

Thanks Michael, will do .

George, Bob, Richard, Elijah, Thomas & Lawrence, thank you all for the kind words.
 
I am back from vacation and was going to complain how unfortunate I was because I caught a cold or the flu as soon as I got there and had to spend most of the time inside in bed, but then I read the sad news of Augie's (Bruno) http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12546-augie-bruno/?p=379342 passing and now my problems seem to be very trivial.  So here's to you Augie, may you rest in peace.

Looking forward to this one...   

Thanks Michael, will do .

Thanks Michael, will do .