Jack12477

I'm officially on vacation     off to a slow start though.......Tuesday was an errand day,  ran a few of those and surveyed the yards......the plow guy did a number on the back yard.  it's not my problem.....I should let the landlord handle it,  but he'd do a crappy job....that I am sure of !  I can wait on it....there is still a small mound of snow and Ice that needs to go away 
 
I did manage to do a small bit on Andrea,  but it was not enough to even mention.   yesterday proved to be the better day,  I did a lot more    the frame work that needs to go under the first part of the trawl rig was where I had left off.....Tuesday was mostly fitting it in place.  before I get to it though.......I recall a problem that was mentioned.  I believe it was Mobbsie,  that pointed out what looked like a small crack in the starboard side stanchion for the fore deck.  I took care of it my friend......I didn't forget about it.   thanks for pointing it out to me 
 

 
...now for that piece of framework........   after fitting it,  it was touched up with flat white.
 

 
it was then cemented in place.
 

 

 
seen in the picture.....is the starboard side stabilizer boom......pinned and cemented in place.   the main objective here,  is to figure how to rig them,  so the lines don't hinder anywhere.   this is tough,  because the telemetry seems a bit off....and with no real plans to work with,  the problem is compounded.   going into the collection of older decals I made,  I chose the ones that I will use for the control panel face.  for the levers,  I used some belaying pins,  which Billing's supplies in their kits.
 

 
dry fitting it in place.......the reel on the bow side will be deployment reel.  the one on the aft side will be for the anchor weight {counter weight,  would be a better name}.
 

 
the pulley {block} assembly for this will need to be high up,  but no higher than the top bar.  I will use a double and a single block for this assembly.   the single block will be located just below the contact point of the yoke,  where it rests when not in use.  an eye bolt will be located at the tip of the boom for a line to widen the weight distribution of the rigging.
 

 
sorry for the background being so busy,  here on the table.  you may have to look close.  the double block.......the dilemma.........where to position it.  I can't put it on any of the side frames.......it would be too far aft,  and it would want to pull it aftward.  there are the guide bars that I need to add later {those other brackets I made},  and that will pull them forward,  to align them with the yoke.   I decided to put the double block just under the top bar,  behind the yoke.
 

 
it imitates a peak halyard,  to sum it up in a nutshell.  I like the way it looks,  but the upper line going to the eye bolt,  is hindered by the top bar and yoke.   I will try something different with the port side,  and if it works better,  I can adjust the starboard side.  I won't need to change where the control panel is.......this is the most logical spot for it.
 

 

 
clearly,  the problem is here.   looking at it at this point,  I may have to relocate the double block to the forward side of this anchor point.   we shall see
 

 
 

Mark,
 
I saw and sand in the garage, and have taken posession of the dinner table whilst the Admiral can't eat at it ... else I have to move to one of my desks, which at present are rather completely cluttered ... The cannon I'm working on now isn't very big (5"). Currently waiting for solder utilities. Besides ... the garage is somewhat 'loaded' if not 'over loaded' ... so many things still to do ...

Carl,
 
Cleanliness is self-defense.  I use the bedroom next to the master bedroom.  If saw or sanding dust becomes a problem, I'll probably be moved to the garage... 

Here the ribs and top rails and have been added.

 
Next I cut and fitted the floor boards, thwarts, breasthook, and stern sheet. Then primed and painted them.

 
Here is a view with a penny for scale reference.

 
Here is a side view. Next I will add the rear knees, lifting rings, tiller handle and thole pins. Does anyone have an image of what the thole pins really look like on a boat. I am familiar with oar locks are these an earlier version?

 
I have learned a great deal building this yawl that I can use to build the quarter boats.
 
 

Thanks for all the kind comments and visits they mean a great deal and are very motivating.
 
Just a small update because I am off to dinner with Jude to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary this evening.
 
The carb is started
 

 

 
There are a few more bits yet then it all gets soldered together the main assembly will wind into the manifold and the nut will lock it into the vertical position.
 
Michael

I agree with Mark. Also the Pfeil brand (Swiss) of gouge is excellent as is Soligen (Germany) - I have several of each brand. Another brand which I have not tried but is reported to be very good is Two Cherries (Germany).  A source for carving tools is  Chipping Away Dedicated to Wood Carvers

CLEATS
 
Retrieved from my posts in Msw1…
Just photos …
Thanks
 

 
 
 

Anything to keep the admiral happy!!! Maybe an octagonal form might take her fancy, and give you another challenge ...  some ivory-ish inlay work ... some carving ... I can see you do it !
 
I admire your perseverance with the ebony. All the measures you take to keep your tools in shape, and you workspace, and model 'spic and span' ...recommendable at least!!!

The second planks went on beautifully after putting a bevel in the upper edge of the bottom planks.
The final planks were not cut straight as the other planks were. They had what I would describe as a wave cut, the center being much wider than either end. I had attached them and decided a day later to remove them and reposition. The planks were just visually unappealing as they were. Switching sides and flipping the ends around improved the look.
The photos showing where the third planks looked just off were great, but have gone missing.
 
As of now, she is planked and off the strong back.
 
Have a little damage to tend to from the pushpins.

Gluing supplied blocks onto strong back, no problem, everything lined up nicely. A clamp, sould have run out and purchased a proper clamp. I went with the pushpins as I had them on hand. The small block I pinned into split in half. Had another smal block of equal size, which also split. Finally got hull pinned to a block and did end up with one more pinhole than I wanted.
 
I will be using a toothpick to plug those holes and they should fill in nicely.
 
I then placed the gar board to check for fit. I had a LOT of sanding ahead of me. The transom hung over the bottom ny a hair, the first frame was short of the edge and frames 2 and 3 hung over.
 
I took my time sanding, fitting, more sanding, fitting and glued the plank on. Another lesson learned, pre plan the clamping! Slowly but surely, progress continues.

Thank you Mario, am having a good time with it. Spent a good amount of time shaping the stem today and quite happy with the way it turned out.
 
Won't have much time for a few days to make much more progress, unfortunately.

I placed the bottom on the supplied blocks to put a bend in, just to get an idea of what angle frame 1 and 3 needed. The bevel was as described slight...
 

 
Also placed the knee and transom.

WELCOME ABOARD,  MaryO.  Glad that you've decided to share your voyage with us.  You've chosen a good subject to model at this point in your 'career'.  I'll be looking forward to the lapstrake construction.
 
By all means, take your time.  Wooden shipbuilding is not a race.  Work at your own pace ......  and ENJOY!

I've planked the starboard side gun port strip and on both sides added the ebony chain wale and the ebony bow area planking.  There's two areas that are unplanked in the chain wale where the channels will fit.  Things look wet because of the first coat of wipe-on poly.
 
Footnote.. I'm more than a bit chuffed as the chain wales (port and starboard) are within 2 scale inches of each other.
 
I'll now go around to the other side, and sand the ebony bow planking.  It's there but really rough before the next update.
 

Nicely done ! I like the paint scheme ! Sails came out nice also.  Excellent model.

Well almost complete !  Have to get some primer and black paint for the grappling hook - paint it and install it and I think I am done.
 

Well, finally making progress.  Mast, boom & gaff installed and rigged. Took apart a scrap piece of rail molding and used the posts as supports, used an old wood plague for the base, put a coat of MinWax English Chestnut stain on everything.  Mounted the boat temporarily for picture purposes. 
 
Now on to the deadeyes and shrouds.
 

Steve and Jack, thanks much for your kind remarks, it did go pretty quick.  The stand is Chuck's idea he mentions keeping it simple in the build practicum.  This is a fun little kit, the sails proved to be more of a challenge then I had anticipated but all's well that ends well.  Thanks again guys
J

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 117 – Poop Deck/Fancy Rail
 
In the first picture, the aft section of the margin plank is pinned in place against the tops of the stern timbers.
 

 
This piece has a hook scarph on each end.  The rudder post will be cut off later.  This picture also shows the framing of the boomkins and aft mooring bits.  In the next picture the next section of margin plank is being fitted to the hook scarph on the aft section and around the mooring bits.
 

 
In the next picture the poop margin planks have been fitted forward to the breast beam and the aft sections of fancy rail are pinned in place.
 

 
The fancy rail forms a cap over the stern timbers, deck margin plank and the top strakes of planking around the stern.  The coamings for the two skylights are pinned in place for fitting the head ledges.  In the next picture, the poop deck has been planked – leaving open areas to view the cabins underneath – and the skylight coamings are in place.
 

 
The fancy rail has again been pinned in place.  To keep water out of the cabin deck this had to be caulked inside and out.  To have sufficient overlap of the poop margin plank, it was made 15" wide – as on the forecastle.  I stepped these rails down to 12" along the main deck.
 
The next picture shows the painted parts of the fancy rail being installed.
 

 
The step down in breadth on the forward piece can just be seen at the break of the poop in this picture.  I spent quite a bit of time deciding how to handle this fancy rail width issue.  Most midship sections show a narrow rail – about 12" – but I finally decided this would not provide sufficient overlap of the poop and forecastle margin planks.  So, another one of those judgment decisions.
 
The next picture shows the fancy rail fully installed aft of midship. 
 

 
After painting, the sections were glued and pinned.  As the pins were removed, copper wired epoxied bolts were installed down into each toptimber to reinforce the attachment.  The bolts were filed off and the top of the rail received more finish painting.  And the next picture shows it at the bow. 
 

 
The last picture shows the model with the completed fancy rail. 
 

 
I have been looking forward for a long time to the capping off of those toptimbers.
 
Ed

Update.
 
Cheers
Gimo
 
 

More pics

Hello everyone,
  Well she is finished!  All the rigging was completed per the kit practicum, with the exception of adding a second flag halyard on the port side. Rope  coils were added in the appropriate places and 4 or the supplied oars placed aboard. I'd originally intended to show two full sails and one either furled or stowed on-board some where, I abandoned that idea as the third sail really blocked a lot of the interior details I'd spent so much time on...So she's running with a main and stay sail and no jib, I think at some time in the history of these little vessels they would have sailed this way.
  This was really an enjoyable little kit to build, alot of detail in a small package.  Thanks to all that followed along and offered support along the way.  Pics follow.
THX
J

This morning I received a great photo from Roger so then spent most of the rest of the morning learning how to make even tighter loops in the tubing.
 

 
After a while I got a couple of parts which looked like a good match, I also used a slightly larger diameter tube that was brass so I also needed another pair of flanges (I'm getting faster at making them at least).
 

 
Soldered them up the same way as the first two times.
 

 
Drilled a larger hole in the new loop
 

 
I wanted to ensure that it was all lined up so soldered the bottom piece while it was on the engine.
 
.
 

 
After lunch I did some more tight loops and get a better bend on the lower part so un-soldered the bottom piece and added the new one with a 5 x 64 threaded coupling
 
Here is the new tap I made it the same way as the other taps.  
 

 
and the final configuration. now I can make the carb
 

 

 
Michael

Rock on, Popeye.   I guess I'm surprised by the concept of a green net but then, I'm not a fisherman in the ship sense.  Or any sense now that I think about it....

the reels that I had placed at her stern,  were becoming a bother.   dry fitting parts and things.....I'd hit them with my arm of sleeve.......and it would push them out of alignment.   in the box was the netting I was going to use,  along with some tulle,  which I didn't need any longer.  what was salvageable,  I put it away........the rest I tossed {I have plenty,  and I know where to get more}.   I chose the green netting over the brown,  since that's what the kit would supply.   cutting it was a question for me also.......I though that a triangle would be best,  since I was to fold it into itself,  so it would fit the frame.  I made up the first one and cemented it in place.
 

 

 
I had thought of Kees,  and what he did with the bath netting sponge.   I had already bought a yard of this netting material,  so I went with it.  the piling kinda hides the scale of the mesh,  so it looks good.  I made up the other two.
 

 

 
the fore deck reel was put in place on the deck........I'm thinking what what I would use to rig it.   black thread......perhaps done with the silver and copper........or even the small size hemp thread.  I still need to plot out the rest of the fittings to do it.
 

 
the control; panel still need to be made for it.   sad that errands had to be run,  or I could have gone further.   the aft lights were the last aspect I tinkered with....besides painting that frame piece.   I added some tiny bars inside,  to simulate the florescent tubes,  and the insides  were painted silver.   they are not finished yet....still more to paint and add to them,  before they are cemented in place.
 

 
two more days.........and I will be on vacation.    I can't wait!