Jack12477

Nice shot !

Nice shot !

I was measuring the ship for a case when I got this bird's eye view of her and took these pictures.

Magnificent model, table and case, Bill.  A museum quality model and display. Congrats !

This will be the last posting for the build log. I was able to get the ship installed into the display case. The Connie is now in her berth. I cut the pedestal out of the spar material. I chose to leave the back side rough. It still shows the wear as well as paint from when it was part of a spar on the mighty ship.
 

 
I spent quite a bit of time researching LED lighting. The top of the case was only ⅞" thick and most of it is glass. I wanted LED lighting that would accurately produce the colors of the ship and be bright enough to allow everything to be seen well. The high CRI led's from Flexfire worked perfectly. They also do not produce much heat which is important in the contained environment of the display.
 
I had a number of goals when designing the case. I wanted black walnut to match that in the ship. I wanted to minimize the size of the surrounding frame to maximize the view of the ship. I wanted a glass top, and wanted the case lit. 
 
By utilizing ¼" tempered glass, I was able to use the strength of the glass to augment the rigidity of the frame. The glass is glued in with a GE Silicone household glue. This provides the holding power required and the give needed to allow for any seasonal movement. I also used low iron glass which is the most optically pure on the market.
 
The display case bottom contains a hidden compartment that is large enough to hold the full set of original plans, printouts of the CAD drawings I used for the ship's boats, and a full bound copy of the build log. 
 
It has been a fun and rewarding build. Now on to my next ship, a scratch build POF of the Brig Eagle. Thank you all for all of the encouragement, technical and mental support during this build.
 

Big step in the case construction today. I have completed all I can do with the case in the shop. Today, I staged everything up in the foyer where it will be located. We moved the table into the center of the foyer to give us a work place. Then we put the case together without the glass so I could fit the access door to her. The largest thing this entailed was running the light wires down through the corner post and into the base. I knew the door would require some final shaping to allow it to clear the sides of the slot as it was slid in place. After a bit of sanding we got the door installed. It fits like a glove. I have to admit, we did put the ship in the case (without any of the glass and turned the lights on. They will work well with her.
 
Here are photos of the door in the case.
 

 
Then we removed the door and all the clamps and started installing the glass. We started with the side the wire ran through since the top and corner could not be moved apart much without stressing the wire. I put wood glue on the corner top and bottom, then ran a bead of the GE silicone adhesive completely around the glass channel. Once cured this will also provide a great deal of rigidity to the case.
 
 
Once that was in place we worked our way around next with the front glass then the remaining side. Once these were in place, I applied clamps on each corner and checked for square. Once I was satisfied, I replaced the back access door. 
 
Here are photos with all the side glass in place. The black handles are suction cups used to move and handle the glass. These will also be necessary should I need to remove the access door to get to the model. Otherwise there is nothing to hold on to and the frame is inset into the case.
 

 
Tomorrow I will remove the clamps and clean up the glass and any glue squeeze out. I will also solder the connections between the LED dimmer control and put it all in shrink tubing to dress it. Then we will move the case into position and place the top glass in the top. This just lays in the top on felt. This will allow outgassing slowly since air can filter through the felt around the glass and out. The door will allow some air exchange but not much. I also will touch up the finish where necessary, primarily around the top of the door where I had to fit it. The good news is all of these areas are actually hidden in the joints so not much touch up will need to be done.
 
Tomorrow we will also pick up the printed build log. It follows this log pretty closely but is more extensive and detailed. It also contains more photos of the build. Rob (my Admiral) was kind enough to clean it up and send it off for printing and binding. I have two printed copies. One for our library, and one to be placed with the plans in the hidden shelf under the case's base. The log in the library also notes the plans are in the case.
 
I still need to cut the pedestal for the name plate. This will be cut from the real Connie's spar material (thanks again Popeye2sea). I have waited on the final design of this because I want to see what I need once the ship is installed in the case. That will inform me on the final design of the pedestal. The plate is already made.
 
So barring unforeseen complications, the ship will probably be in her new berth tomorrow evening! I will post a final entry here with some photos of her in place and close this build log.

I know I said it would probably be a few days before I updated this again, but I finished the new ship's base today.  I still will be adding the poly/oil to it along with the display case. Anyway, since I was updating, I thought I could also show the case after the first two coats of the poly. It really brings out the colors and wood grain. Also, there is a shot of the glass waiting for the case to be finished.
 
I also started working on the LED lights today. I wired the power supply to the controller and tested it.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

The table is done. I still have to actually screw the top to the base, but that will be easy. I placed the table where it is going to go today and tried the Connie out on it. As I expected the base that she is mounted to will definitely need to be changed. It does not go well with the walnut. While the table looks a bit bit, the base of the case will step in about 2" all around. We also need to move the column with the salt block somewhere else. So other than being better lit, much better protected and about 4 " higher, this will be the view of her in her new berth.
 
Now to start on the case!
 
 

So I started the display case today. I milled all the rough walnut and started on the table top. They are cut to length and width and ready for cutting the biscuit slots and glue up tomorrow. The biscuits add very little strength to the joints, but they help massively in aligning and keeping the boards aligned during glue-up.
 
My current plans are to glue the table top up then cut the profiles into it on the router table. Then it will be ready for sanding and finishing along with the rest of the table. I have attached photos of the milled boards along with the table top ready for the biscuit cutter (it is sitting on the top). The router table right now is being used for storage of the various bits and assorted ship making fittings. I need to move those into the cabinets. I just haven't gotten to that yet. TH4e chunk of wood in the background (on the table) is a part of a Connie Spar. I used pieces of this in the ship's boats and I will carve the stand for the name plate from it as well. The real Connie is permanently a part of my Connie.
 
I still have to work out how to slot the corners for the LED lighting. I have a number of ideas such as deepening the slots for the glass, or possibly even drilling a hole though it. I will work that out. I have tested the LED lighting and can;t wait for it to shine on the model. I think it will really set it off.
 
Anyway, I took a much needed night off for the National Symphony and the Tchaikovsky Violin Concerto. 
 
Here are before and after shots of the walnut.


 
A photo of the top ready for biscuits and glue up.

 
The new router bits waiting on their chance to bite into the walnut!.

I did the Peterboro in Golden Oak stain under 2 coats of WOP......came out nice.  Of course that's what it's supposed to look like.
 
Now the Indian Girl is a different story.  The inside would probably look nice with a natural finish.  But I'll wait to see your rendition on the exterior.  Don't chop down too many birch trees 
 
The CA idea is just plain BAD!

Thanks Jack,
 
I actually have a plan, but I'm going to reveal it later, because I'm a big meanie.

Another alternative would be to coat the hull with two-part epoxy resin then imbed a fine mesh fiberglass hobby cloth - smooth it out well - sand and leave unpainted. You can get the epoxy and cloth in any good hobby shop.  I did a model of a Coast Guard utility boat that way many years ago and it came out really nice.

Ed, please take the photos.  I find shop clutter in the background to be both charming and instructive.
 
By the way, the photo of joggling the planks I thought was an entire tutorial on the subject.  Truly well done, as is all your work.
 
Wayne

Bill,
Can you shoot some pics of how you hung coiled lines to your belaying pins? I did what you suggested and ran the lines through the pin holes then re-inserted the pins. Now I want to give the impression of neat coiled lines hanging from each pin.

Yeah---You gotta love the natural wood look on her.

Well, I failed to also mention it was a period thing, with the chain coming later, but with Constructo's version, I think the focus is the over-all ornate beauty of the ship, being unpainted and with light and dark wood designed for aesthetics, rather than historical accuracy.

Vegetable netting
 
The stuff used to wrap garlic in supermarkets is a stretchy plastic net with 3mm hexagonal holes. Useful for hammock crane netting on period ships or can be painted black and glued to acetate sheet to form window panes. Cheaper than buying tulle as long as you like the taste of garlic (or are paranoid about vampires).
 
 

Great work, Augie. Good technique abounds.
 
Up here in the Smokies, we can work outside, so we can enjoy the fresh air and do a little modeling. I do wish I had screened in my deck area, though.

After saws, chisels are the premier woodworking tools.  That is why I included the appendix on making them in Naiad Volume I.  I normally only use one or two - both straight types - but they are always out of the toolbox.
 
On the joggled planks I used a chisel on the margin plank and the disk sander on the planks.
 
David, acrylics can be airbrushed, but cleaning acrylics out of the airbrush can be a pain. Its not like watercolor or solvent based material.   I have airbrushed models - not ship models - with acrylics, enamels and Floquil - always in a small ventilated hood.  Air brushing is an acquired skill with a learning curve - as you may know.  I did not use it on YA for fear of overspray in places that would be impossible to clean.  I recommend a good brush for these models.
 
Micheal, I would take more overall photos, but that means cleaning up the shop.  Its bad enough having to sweep away clutter to take some of the close ups.
 
Thanks again for all the comments and likes.
 
Ed

I just received my first order of boxwood from Jason at Crown Timberyards.  Let me thank Jason for the fast turnaround on my order.  It arrived just in time.  I am almost done sanding and shaping the stern and am hoping to start laying down some planking on the upper bulwarks. 
 
At the time, i bought all that Jason had in the sizes I need.  Jason, if you are reading this.  Thanks, and I will be ordering more wood very soon.  I gotta say, this stuff is nice!  The strips are super smooth and not a bit of fuz on them. 
 
I am glad I read others experience and recommendations of boxwood for my Syren.

Well, the Admiral was visiting family in Michigan this past weekend, so I got to spend some quality time with my Syren.  I made a nice pile of dust from sanding... Oh the sanding... And more sanding... Did I mention I did alot of sanding?
 
Finally got all the gun ports installed and the bullwarks sanded.  Here are some pictures.  As usual, please let me know if I am on the right track, or if I need to sand some more, or you see anything I have done incorrectly.
 
Thanks
Ken
 
 
Not sure if I need to sand more on the bow.
 
 

 
 
Yes.. I like to watch movies while I build. 

Spent the evening sanding the starboard side of my gun ports.  I now have a really nice pile of sawdust building up.   I am not quite done sanding the outboard side of them yet.  Here are a couple close up shots of the outboard side of my gun ports after a little sanding. The aft end has not been sanded yet.
 

 
 
I am realizing that I probably should have framed in the rest before I started sanding. 

 
Section still unsanded.

 
 
On another note, I just ordered a bunch of 1/16x5/32 and 1/16x1/8 boxwood strips from Crown Timberyard.  I will make sure to let you all know how it looks when it comes in. 
 
As always, any feedback (good or bad) is welcome
 
 
Ken

Well, I finally got a little progress made.  I was able to spend some time this weekend making dust and got the gunport sills installed. 
 
Note to self.  Must read a little more carefully.  I first installed all the sills on one side and then went back to read the next step.  That is when I noticed that in the well written manual, Chuck said that the 3/16th by 1/4 sills should be installed so that the 1/4 side makes up the top of the sill.  I installed it the opposite way.  Luckily I had used wood glue and was able to disolve the bonds using a little rubbing alcohol as I had read in this forum. 
 
1st sill installed.  You will notice that it is installed wrong side up.  I figured this out later and had to remove one entire row of these.

 
All Sills and tops installed.  I havent yet finished the framing of the gunports.  Next step.

 
Another view of the sills.

 
I created a little block on a handle that was the size of the gunports according to the plan.  I used this to make sure I put the tops of the gun ports at the right height. 
 
While framing in the sides of the gun ports, I used a caliper to measure from the inside edge of one gunport to the inside edge of the adjacent port to make sure the spacing is correct.  Hopefully I did this correctly.  I will post a picture of the gun port framing later today.
 
Any comments and / or critique is welcome.  If you spot something screwy, please say so.  I dont want to get too far in.
 
Thanks for looking.
Ken

I've just finished installing the anchors.

Ben, thanks! The last few days I added the frames for the sweep ports and marked the ports off using the templates that were provided. I also started installing the sheaves.