Jack12477

Chuck, could you explain here how you use the "fan" ? The camera angle on the video blocked the view and the audio is difficult to hear.

Chuck,
    Obvious from your videos, one of the keys to getting it right is ensuring the garboard strake is the correct length. This is something I struggle with.  Is there any rule of thumb regarding where it ends?

Chuck, thanks for posting the pictures. Now I "see" what you are talking about. Great looking planking ! I'm still trying to get mine to look like yours.

Nope...watch the video.  All dry bending.  Its just the heat.  My guess is that you are not bending it enough.

Actually not Jan...The results are pretty accurate, and its not fiction at all.   Its just the method I am using is one that is for modeling.   Those contemporary models are very accurate to what the ship's really  looked like.   What I meant was that I have no idea how the original ship builders achieved the results.   Its not really important to me.   Its the end results that I am trying to replicate.  
 
Notice the crazy bending below.   I am sure they started with wider planks....then they applied some crazy bending as well.   but the results are the same....no crazy pie-shaped steelers.   
 

 
Chuck

fortunately I havent had time to finish those last five strakes so I just took some pictures.
 
Here is a staight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull.  It could be at the bow or at the stern.   Most beginners would try to force this into place and the top edge of the plank would lift off the hull and not sit flush against the bulkheads.  Some fight with it using pins and clamps and it gets messy.   Holding it without bending like shown reveals the gap .  Note the widest point of that gap.
 

 
Mark this location as the center of the gradual curve you will need.
 
 
In the next picture,  after bending,    you can see how nice it fits and how it is flush against the bulkheads.  No forcing needed.  Its a perfect fit.    Note the dot I marked on the plank for the apex of the curve or the widest part of the gap..You could use the compass method or the tape method to find the exact curve,  but I prefer to eyeball it like this.   Visually its easy to see the curve after a little practice.   I always over bend slightly.
 

 
Now all I have to do is bevel it a bit and darken the seem as I did in the video and glue it on.

The same thing at the stern as at the bow.  Basically you hold the straight plank in place without bending it.   Because the one on the hull already is curved,  there will be a gap between the two.   You find the widest point of that gap or the apex of the curve you will need and mark its location on the new plank.   That will reference the center or top of the bend you must create.  I hope that makes sense.  Then you bend it as I did.   Bend it a bit more to allow for spring-back.

Very impressive, Dave ! Nicely done !

Very impressive, Dave ! Nicely done !

FINAL PHOTO POSTING FOR THIS BUILD.....
 
Built this this little display base for the small model....
 

 
Added the flags to both ships....(printed from internet search)....
 

 
And there you are.... All Done.
 

 
What Next?
Not sure yet.  A friend is sending me a set of plan sheets for The Royal Sovereign.... by Carta Augusto (Italian) 
 
I searched for a build log from someone - can't find one. 
I did find a number of photo's and a very interesting "History", which after reading, I'm surprised I can't find more on her.
 
She looks like a major challenge for a scratch build, but might be just what I'm looking for, as long as it doesn't require plating the hull.... never again! 
Best I can figure, the plan sheets appear to be about 1:60th scale, which is the same as the larger Mayflower above.   
I'll soon find out once the plan sheets arrive.

Thanks for these bios and mug shots, Toni. Now I understand why Mark's name is 'MarcusBotanicus'!
 
Thank you also to the lady and gents for serving on the Board of the NRG.

William M. “Mike” Lonnecker. 
 
I am a retired engineer with a degree in Mechanical Engineering (BSME) from the University of Kansas. I worked in Texas and California as a Program Manager and Project Engineer in the Defense and Aerospace Industry until retiring in 2002. I currently reside in Poway (San Diego) California with Sandy, my wife of 44 years.
 
My interests have included woodworking, flying sailplanes, sailing, hot rodding and modeling all types of “vehicles”. I have been a student of design, modeling and building projects since completing my first plastic model car at age 6 or 7.  I now prefer to work on 1: 48 scale ship models of the late 18th century and am building my fourth ship model, The FLY, using David Antscherl’s Swan series of books.
 
I am a member of the San Diego Ship Modelers’ Guild and serve as Guild Master (President). I am also an active member of the Ship Modelers Association of Fullerton (SMA) and, of course, am a Director of the NRG where I am also chair of the mentor program and am currently mentoring one member. I enjoy sharing my modeling and machining skills with other modelers and regularly give demonstrations at club meetings and invite other members to my shop to work out difficult problems or aid new modelers with their projects.  My MSW screen name is Mike.
 

Toni Levine
 
Like so many of us, I started building models when I was a child.  The first model I remember building was a Monogram F6F-5 Hellcat which was originally given to my brother but it seemed that the “girl” had more aptitude for this than he did.  My first ship models were small Scientific carved hull models which I built during high school.  Model building was then shelved for several years while I completed my education (BS and MD from the University of Illinois) and residency training (Northwestern University).  My first plank-on-bulkhead model was Peregrine Galley by Mantua.  It is my only model built with a full coat of sails.  Over the years, my projects progressed from out-of-the-box kits to kit-bashing and finally scratch building.  My current project is Atalanta, a Swan-class sloop built in the fully framed style popularized by David Antscherl. 
 
I have been a physician since 1980 and specialize in otolaryngology (ear, nose and throat).  Like so many of us, my career prevents me from spending much time building ships.  I am a member of the Nautical Research and Model Society of Chicago and have been a member of the NRG since 1989 and a Director since 2013.  I live in the Chicago area with my husband.  My other interests include gardening, water gardening and home brewing.  My MSW screen name is tlevine.
 

Phil Roach
 
I have practiced law since 1988 and have had a private law practice in Bonita Springs since 1994. I graduated with a Bachelor of Arts Degree from the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1985 and then attended Campbell University School of Law where I received my Juris Doctorate (J.D.) degree in 1988. Following graduation I moved from my hometown of Fayetteville, N.C. to become a full time resident of Southwest Florida. I belong to the Collier County Bar Association and the Florida Bar. I have been married to my wife Marina since 1988 and we have two children, Nicholas and Elizabeth.
 
I am an active member of the Rotary Club of Bonita Springs Noon and am currently serving on the Board of Directors. My prior service to the Club includes holding the position of President, Club Rotary Foundation Committee Chairman and I have served on the Board of Directors for various terms over my more than 20 year membership in the club.
I am also an active member of the Southwest Florida Ship Modelers’ Guild and I currently hold the position of President. I also served as liaison to the Nautical Research Guild for the Regional Conference previously held in Fort Myers, Florida.
 
I enjoy American history and its maritime heritage. My modeling interests are sailing ships and lately, that interest is gravitating backwards in time to vessels of the Revolutionary War period, vessels of the Colonial era, and the vessels of exploration of the North American Continent. Although my full time practice of law forbids me from modeling as much as I would like, I very much enjoy the research.  My MSW screen name is roach101761.
 

So many friends and so many nice comments. A bit overwhelming. My sincere thanks to each of you.  With less to do on the victory, I'm enjoying perusing other's logs.
Alan, You've heightened my interest in my CAD program but clearly I've a lot to learn.  Fascinating.
Jack, the overall dimensions are: LOA 56", width of the Main Yard 19" and height 38".  Rather large, but the case will be even larger. Which of course raises the question of where to put it in our condo. " Well honey, we could get rid of the dining room table and............................."  Perhaps I shouldn't go there.
It will be some time before she is on display in her case, but I'll post the results.
Cheers, Gil

Its all spiling......basically instead of cutting it from a wider sheet, I am achieving the same spiled curve with bending alone.   Either way would work.  I did it a bit of both on the Winnie.   Its all the same thing.  The part you should not get stuck on is how to achieve the proper curve and shape.  Either cutting it or bending it will work.  The important thing to get from this is that you will require a curved and tapered plank in the end before you adhere it to your hull.   Thats the important part.  No force fitting will ensue.   You can try and find any method to achieve that shape you find comfortable.
 
If you line off your hull first and have a plan,  and then have your planks properly curved and shaped before you glue them into position.  You are good to go.   If you also start with just one drop plank at the bow (just under the wale)....you have a really good chance of making a nicely planked hull with some planning and pre shaping.  Its usually what I see on contemporary models.  I just try and copy that.    No steelers at the stern.
 
Once you get past the habit of using a straight plank, all the same width, and trying to glue it onto the hull, forcing it into position,   it will naturally result in a hull with fewer steelers and drop planks.   It just goes a lot easier.   Rather than use steelers at the stern,   just use planks that gradually get wider than they are at mid ship.
 
The only way to try this when I was breaking my bad habits,  was to plan it all out ahead of time.  Copying the layouts on contemporary models.
 
You can use the compass method to find that correct curve,   You can use the tape method to find that curve.  Or you can eyeball it based on the gap as I did in the video.   Once you have the curve...you could cut it from a wider sheet, or just bend it.  You could heat it with a hair dryer or use one of those bending irons.   You could use water or you could use ammonia.  There are many methods and I have used them all.  But in the end they all achieve the same pre-shaped plank before it gets glued on the hull.   Having that "light bulb" moment and realizing what shape you need is the important part in my opinion.
 
Just to let you know,  I prefer the method shown in the video.  That is pretty much what I do for all my planking now.  No water...just heat.  Bending and not cutting it from a wider sheet.
 
 
 
Chuck

Thanks for posting the two videos, Chuck. Very informative. I did consider joining your NJ Club until I did a Google map to see where you meet. It's over a 2 hr drive for me - one way. I just wish there was a club closer.You are right about the up-close collaboration. I do have  a local woodcarving club that I belong to and learning from the masters has helped my carving immensely. Wish I could do the same for my boat building.

Part two was just some questions and answers.  But I was a little rushed.   Usually we dont have enough time to devote what is needed for the whole presentation.  But here it is anyway.
 
I am not sure if it adds anything more to part one.....but here it is.   Its hard to hear the questions being asked.   Most of the conversation in the middle revolves around someone asking me about a hull with many drop planks and or stealers as described in another authors practicum...just putting them in wherever and whenever.  Hopefully that will make the audio make more sense.
 

Nice tutorial Chuck. Bit of a 'shock' your cutter is smaller than I had thought it would be, but that's a compliment
 
Remco

Fugggettaboutaboutit!!!!!  

Looking good keith!!!  
 
One of the guys taped my planking session at my club meeting.  Its freaky to see myself on a video like this.  No laughing.   But It shows how I taper and cut a plank to match my plan from lining out the hull.   I wish the camera was behind me but I hope its still worth posting.
 

 
Chuck

The heavy lifting on the bow section has been completed with the installation of all the hanging/ lodging knees and carlings.  In addition, the inboard planking has been completed:
 

 
Next up is the completion of the inboard planking on the quarterdeck so that we can get to putting some rails on this lady.
 
 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.  The windlass is finished.  Only one goof.  Can you spot it?   The holes for the handles on the two outer pieces are out of alignment with those on the center piece.  When you assemble each barrel, it would be good to start each one with either the solid or holed face lined up with a square side of the axle and keep it constant.  Since the two outer pieces are the same, I don't think I have to take it apart.  Warning...some of the pieces are VERY SMALL.  It's a great addition to the Cutter Cheerful plans.
Maury

Hello all,
A small update, got the wide thwart with the mast hoop hardware made and mounted... made and installed the windless also made a couple windless handles, the square holes were done with with a square file.  Pics follow
J

How about a block of basswood?
Okay, it's higher density therefore harder to form but the planking will certainly "nail" to it, both with glue and nails.
Just my two cents