Jack12477

looking for the jig for the jewelers saw I found the chap who I was looking for, William Robertson designed a special holder to cut dovetails and other joints with a jewelers saw, i am still looking for this jig but in the meantime enjoy his amazing work.
I think we could all use a set of these tools.

 
Michael

There is a pretty simple tool you can make for the side to side squareness. Take two wood strips and bolt them together an inch or so from one end. They should be loose enough they can open up like scissors. Cut the long ends to a point. Then you place the jig with the points down and to the inside sides of the deck behind the mast the rake it back so it rests in the V at the top. This ensures the mast is square to the sides.
 
The rake, according to the Navy plan is about 2.5 degrees ion the fore mast, 3 degrees on the main, and almost 4 degrees on the mizzen. If you look on the Navy Sail Plan they give the rake at the bottom in inches per foot.

Jack....thanks for the Hu-Kwa Tea!

Mike
 
Dremel makes a bit to cut a square bottom slot/dado - comes in two sizes.The bit is included in their "router" multi-bit package (U-veiner, Chamfer, Round-over, Cove, and two straight bits - if I recall correctly). I have not tried this yet but I'm thinking that if you use the wider of the two bits and adjust the fence on your Dremel jig just right, you could get the same results as using a true rabbetting bit. (Too bad they don't carry one - I seem to recall they had one way back when - like their table top bench vise which you can no longer find.).
 
I don't know of any table saw maker that makes a scale dado set, which is really what we need for these many miniature tables saws (e.g Byrnes - which I agree is a wee bit outside my budget)
 
Try experimenting with your current Dremel jig.  My workshop is under going some need reorganization and clean-up right now or I would try playing with mine.
 
Jack

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Rich
 
If you care to give your hammocks a more authentic ship's aroma, try soaking them in Hu-Kwa tea - a Formosan Lapsang Souchong Tea. "HU-KWA tea gains its distinctive flavor and smoky tang from the burning pine wood over which it is fired during the final drying process of the tea leaf."  A friend of mine and fellow modeller drinks only tea and calls Hu-Kwa the "Stockholm Tar tea" because of the aroma it produces during brewing. (did I hear "creosote"? :D ) It's one of his preferred teas
 
I've been thinking of trying on my rigging line to see what results I get (both color and aroma)
 
 By the way, it's pretty tasty also.
 
Jack
 

Thank you for all the "likes" and comments. 
 
Hawse timbers... version 4.5 (1 side was replaced once, the other twice).   The hard part (to me) is that lines drawing give no shape to the bow forward of the first cant fram so I'm fumbling with templates and photos.  I think I'm close.  I've filled in most of the low spots and sanded down the highs.  Cherry has this nice feature  that if it ages a bit and darkens, when you sand it the sanded parts become light. This, coupled with a batten and templates gives you a pretty good idea of where one stands in the fairing.
 
They still need more fairing but I need to hold off a bit.  Frankly, I'm getting tired of the sawdust in the air at the moment.     The reality is, I need to put in the gunport sills and fair those in.  And then the interior.  The deck clamp "knees" (actualy just nubs of wood) need to be worked such to give a smooth sheer to the clamps.  I'll have to hold on the clamps though, until the stern is finished.
 
Yes, I'm avoiding the stern like the plague.  Hahn doesn't give you a template on the plans for the transoms so I'm sorting this out.  I have the stern framing showing height and width of the timbers, the side showing the location and depth but no top view showing the shape.  Again, much staring at the prints and Hahn's limited build photos.  This seems to be one of those areas that are "up to the builder" to sort out like the quarter galleries.   Speaking of which I'm also sorting out that area as it's not really defined on the prints as to timbers.  However, I'm putting together a plan, which if it works I'll happy dancing for weeks.
 
So... to the pictures.  The first three show the hawse timbers and cant frames.  None of this will be visible when planked.  The last is kinda' artsy-craftsy looking at the interior so I can get an idea of amount of fairing in there to be done.
 




 
 
As always, feel free to click on any picture to enlarge it to full size.  Oh.. sorry for the sawdust and debris.  I really need to hit this with the shop vac.

Mike
 
Just found your post.  Re: the Dremel router jig you have. Try getting a rabbett bit for the router.  Dremel makes a variety of "woodworking" bits individually and packaged.  I have a selection. They do work, but you need to practice on scrape to get the right layout.  I have the same jig you displayed. Have't done any rabbet cuts but have done some round over cuts.
 
Jack

I picked up some gears at the local RC Hobby store ad built mine. The only thing I would do differently next time would be to reverse the gears.

I've rigged as much of the bowsprit that I can until I get the masts erected. Constructo makes this rigging more like a detective story....I have to search numerous places and then guess where the line goes. Oh well...if it was easy anybody could do it.

Each time I return to this build, I feed my personal commitment to improve my own work. I'm sure I am not alone. Your work is so inspirational Ed.
 
Dave

Ed, I'm quietly following along.  I can think of no new words that haven't already been used so I'll simply say your build is amazing.  I'm learning so much watching you and your methods.  Thanks so much for posting in all your build logs so we can all learn from you!

Wednesday, September 24th, 2014 - Some Pictures of "Le Cyclope"  
In the absence of new material from my model to show, I start to post some messages in which you can understand what kind of sailing ship I'm building and its appearance once finished. 
I'm starting with some pictures of a model of an unknown author, although I think should be B. Frolich, of one of the 22 bricks de 24 designed by Pestel.
It is "Le Cyclope". 
Le Cyclope was set up in 1804 and launched in 1810 in Genoa. Armed with sixteen 6pdrs guns she was transferred to Italy in June 1810. 
Good vision, Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0336_zps99d9a8ea.jpg

02 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0338_zpsd16f2304.jpg

03 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0339_zps3651ac8f.jpg

04 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0340_zps2e72d043.jpg

05 Le%20Cyclope/dsc_0344_zps699eb6e5.jpg

To be continued . .
 

Mark,
 
Thanks for the lead. I've been looking for this website for a week now after I say the server on Gil Middleton's build log.
 
Jack

Louie, any scrap wood that you remove from your pear trunk can be used for smoking food. I often chuck pear chips into my Kamado smoker and get amazing ribs. I know this is REALLY off topic but here are some ribs I smoked with cherry wood:
 

 
So if you cut up your pear branch, first dibs on the offcuts! I'll even drive up to Ballarat to collect it
 
If you can't make a ship model out of the wood, you may as well use it to flavour your food, eh!!!

Brian,
 
I guess I should ask:  define reasonable?  
 
Alexy (one of our sponsors)  makes a very nice one that has a motor option:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5366-serving-machine-25-serving-machine-20-power-option/?hl=serving
 
I have this one:  http://www.shipahoymodels.com/equipmentforsale.htm  (near the bottom of the page).

:D  Gil, if by that you mean number of completed kits!?!  Yes, I have a lot of practice making a lot of mistakes. None of my finished models holds a candle to your in-progress Victory.  Planking and rigging are my weak points and I have been paying close attention to your methodology as I hope it will help me improve my own.  Your skills are impressive. Thanks for the compliment tho. Hope you enjoyed your cruise.
 

 
Jack

I'll add my Thank You as well. Nice tutorial, Mike
 
Jack

First, the clews are created and attached.  I made them using 0.25mm natural thread from kit.  I ended up making them a tad longer and ran them into the sail and up along the outside edge a bit farther than necessary to ensure that the clews were visible when the dog-ears were folded down.  They were attached with fabric glue.

 



 



 

Next step was to bend the sail to the yard.  I didn't take pictures while this was in process, so hopefully the following description makes sense.  I used 0.25mm thread here as well.  First step was to mark on the front of the sail the points where the thread would be run through the sail - I marked points 5mm apart.  Second, I used a running knot to attach the line on one end of the yard.  Third step was to run the line from the front into the rear of the sail, then as you loop it over the yard, run it underneath the prior line and repeat til the end.  It got a bit tricky with the yard horses and blocks, but after a while you get the hang of it.  Once the sail was fully attached, go back and tighten the lines by pulling the vertical line towards the other end of the yard, and down along the top of the rear of the sail.

 



 



 

Next step was the first fold.  From the front of the sail, the bottom half was folded up so that the bottom line between the two dog ears was at the top of the sail.

 



 

Next step was to fold the bottom corners up and in, to help add more volume to the middle of the yard, and reduce the volume at the ends.

 



 

Next step was to furl the sail and attach the gaskets.  From my research, when furling the sails, the sails were "gathered up" such that the sail was folded into an accordion type of pattern with the final fold up and against the top of the yard.  That was a bit hard to do at this scale, so I ended up just folding and rolling the sail up from the front until it was tight against the yard.  Took a few tries, which helped I think to get the cloth more relaxed to get a tighter furl.  

 

Then the gaskets were installed.  I started with one in the middle, and then added three to each side roughly evenly spaced out.  These were fairly easy to do using a running knot, and then using tweezers to help tighten the furl as the gasket was tightened (sometimes with the help of some fabric glue to help keep the material furled).  After a few final adjustments, the knots were sealed with diluted PVA, and then the extra lines cut off.

 



 



 

Finally, using fabric glue, the dog ears for the clews were bent downward and glued into position.   

 



 

There you have it - the no sew method of furling sails.    I spent an inordinate amount of time researching and thinking about how to do these, so hopefully these look relatively authentic.  I know that opinions differ on whether sails should be attached or not, but I think furled sails add a nice touch and are a good compromise given the scale issues with adding full sails - plus, these are sailing ships after all 

 

I think there were lines running from the clews downward which helped to keep them in their downward orientation (and probably keep the furl tight).  I haven't figured out where those lines go, so if anyone has the answer, I would love to hear it 

 

The topsails and courses will be a bit trickier, given that they have blocks for the bunt lines, and yard horses.  I'm thinking that I will pre-rig the bunt lines by gluing a portion of the line into the sail to be furled, which will eventually be run through the blocks.  The instructions have the line started at the block by knotting one end of the line before it is run through the blocks - I think, however, that the line is technically started at the buntlines in the sail which are run through the blocks on the yard.  Haven't fully figured that out yet, so again, would love to hear from anyone with answers on how that works. 

 

I also have to do a little more research on the spanker and jibs - the spanker should be relatively straightforward, but how to reduce the sail to remove bulk while maintaining the brail lines will be tricky.  The jibs are are complicated, in that there are hanks, jib stays and travelers that need to be attached.  All part of the fun I suppose 

 

Thanks for looking in!

Finished another bank of hammocks. Only about fifty to go.

Finished another bank of hammocks. Now I have a regular hammock folding factory. Now I'm about 40% done.

Hi Dan,
 
Here's something that has worked pretty well for me.

Depending on the length of the spar or mast, I chuck up the dowel in my drill press, and use a piece of scrap wood to steady the stock and prevent whipping.  You may have noticed that the stock isn't exactly plumb in the photo.  I set this up for this post, and didn't excatly take my time.

A little bar soap can be used as a lubricant, if you are concerned about generating heat from the friction that might occur.

It's not a very good photo, but here's my mainmast, which was done in this manner.  As you can see, the plug that rotated inside the base is still attached, and there aren't any heat marks.
 
BobF

I'm not going to try to recreate the whole log, but here's all the pictures from the previous log.  They're not in any particular order but they might help someone.
 
Feel free to hit me with any questions.