Erik Nyren

Yes, The wiring goes out through the keel, I have yet to come up with an idea of how to conseal the wiring on dispaly but I probably have a few years to come up with something.
 
I have had a lot of other projects during the summer but Victory has not been idle.
A rather serious computor meltdown has resulted in a lot of pictures and materials beeing lost. I really need to learn to make backups more frequently.
I rather liked the pictures that Rob has put into the gunports to give them some life. Rob has been kind enough to give me some of his pictures so I can make a similar arrangement.
 
The upper gunportpatterns are now fitted to the ship although the two lower patterns are only dry fitted in order to drill the holes for the false guns. My plan is to drill theese holes centered using a simple little jig that guides the drill. The pictures will then be fitted centering the guncarriges to the holes......Well I´ll post more pictures as I go along.
 
A small problem arose when dryfitting the patterns the middle one portrudes above the bow about 3-4 mm Im not sure if thats correct.  The lower one did not fit perfectly at the stern as I had to move it slightly forward in order not to have a bulkhead blocking one of the gunports. I dont think this will be to much of a problem though as it will all be planked over and painted.
 
More to come
 
Erik
 
I

Yes, The wiring goes out through the keel, I have yet to come up with an idea of how to conseal the wiring on dispaly but I probably have a few years to come up with something.
 
I have had a lot of other projects during the summer but Victory has not been idle.
A rather serious computor meltdown has resulted in a lot of pictures and materials beeing lost. I really need to learn to make backups more frequently.
I rather liked the pictures that Rob has put into the gunports to give them some life. Rob has been kind enough to give me some of his pictures so I can make a similar arrangement.
 
The upper gunportpatterns are now fitted to the ship although the two lower patterns are only dry fitted in order to drill the holes for the false guns. My plan is to drill theese holes centered using a simple little jig that guides the drill. The pictures will then be fitted centering the guncarriges to the holes......Well I´ll post more pictures as I go along.
 
A small problem arose when dryfitting the patterns the middle one portrudes above the bow about 3-4 mm Im not sure if thats correct.  The lower one did not fit perfectly at the stern as I had to move it slightly forward in order not to have a bulkhead blocking one of the gunports. I dont think this will be to much of a problem though as it will all be planked over and painted.
 
More to come
 
Erik
 
I

Yes, The wiring goes out through the keel, I have yet to come up with an idea of how to conseal the wiring on dispaly but I probably have a few years to come up with something.
 
I have had a lot of other projects during the summer but Victory has not been idle.
A rather serious computor meltdown has resulted in a lot of pictures and materials beeing lost. I really need to learn to make backups more frequently.
I rather liked the pictures that Rob has put into the gunports to give them some life. Rob has been kind enough to give me some of his pictures so I can make a similar arrangement.
 
The upper gunportpatterns are now fitted to the ship although the two lower patterns are only dry fitted in order to drill the holes for the false guns. My plan is to drill theese holes centered using a simple little jig that guides the drill. The pictures will then be fitted centering the guncarriges to the holes......Well I´ll post more pictures as I go along.
 
A small problem arose when dryfitting the patterns the middle one portrudes above the bow about 3-4 mm Im not sure if thats correct.  The lower one did not fit perfectly at the stern as I had to move it slightly forward in order not to have a bulkhead blocking one of the gunports. I dont think this will be to much of a problem though as it will all be planked over and painted.
 
More to come
 
Erik
 
I

Yes, The wiring goes out through the keel, I have yet to come up with an idea of how to conseal the wiring on dispaly but I probably have a few years to come up with something.
 
I have had a lot of other projects during the summer but Victory has not been idle.
A rather serious computor meltdown has resulted in a lot of pictures and materials beeing lost. I really need to learn to make backups more frequently.
I rather liked the pictures that Rob has put into the gunports to give them some life. Rob has been kind enough to give me some of his pictures so I can make a similar arrangement.
 
The upper gunportpatterns are now fitted to the ship although the two lower patterns are only dry fitted in order to drill the holes for the false guns. My plan is to drill theese holes centered using a simple little jig that guides the drill. The pictures will then be fitted centering the guncarriges to the holes......Well I´ll post more pictures as I go along.
 
A small problem arose when dryfitting the patterns the middle one portrudes above the bow about 3-4 mm Im not sure if thats correct.  The lower one did not fit perfectly at the stern as I had to move it slightly forward in order not to have a bulkhead blocking one of the gunports. I dont think this will be to much of a problem though as it will all be planked over and painted.
 
More to come
 
Erik
 
I

Assembly of the channels and deadeyes was done slightly different than what was said in the manual. I decided to paint the parts prior to assembly and then touch up the paintwork after the channels and deadeyes were in place. This was done to minimize the risk of messing up the wood with black paint

Hello
 
Fixing the problem of forgetting to reduce thickness of the "stuff of the topside" I was having a lot of fun and became so eager to finish the planking that I became carless in reading up on the instructions.
 
The "stuff of the topside should be 0.072" down by the Black strake and are thinned out as the planking rises and ends up beeing 0.042" at the point that the Sheer strake is placed. 
The Sheer Strake beeing 0.062" thick should protrude 0.02" from the hull planking. Having not reduced the thickness of the planking my Sheer Srake instead had a recess of about the same.
 
To fix this I sanded down the hull to a smooth surface and in doing so reducing the thickness of the "stuff of the topside.
I then went on and made a 0.02" (or there about) strip using a thickness sander.
From that strip I refitted the Sheer strake ontop of the old one, actually achieving a better flow of the strake than the original planking.
It still needs some sanding though
 
Now back to treenails
 
More to come

Many thanks for your interrest in the build.
The treenails are taking me a LOT of time as I´m working on CC Victory parrallell to the Kingfisher project also I have installed a new floor in my house along with some wallpaper along with other projects. well progress is slow and posting a bunch of pictures of treenails and more treenails and.....makes nos sense thus the next post will be of the nailing finished.
 
Nils; Interesting experiment but dit the needle not leave burnmarks on the wood? I think you would be better of with a pinwise actually.
 
Regards
Erik

Hello
 
Treenails, lots of them    
 
I make them from bamboo barbecue sticks using a drawplate from Byrnes Machines.
they are about 0,4mm. The holes are drilled with a pinwise equiped with a archimedes screw
a very neat and useful tool that allows you to press the drill whithout having to turn it
by hand.
 
I added a picture of my birthdaypresent aswell. A pair of excellent magnifying glases, the glasses can easily be changed between 1,5, 2,5 and 3,5 times magnification.
 
Erik

I have to admit the rig is not yet finished, I have some ratlines to do but theese wil be dealt with in time.
 
Comments. questions and well whatever is always wellcome.
 
Erik

Of cource beeing a finished log of a kit we end up between a review and a build log so I leave it up to our excellent admins to move the topic if deemed necessary
 
Historical background on HMS
Victory
 
The history of this proud vessel resting in a Portsmouth dry dock is well known to this community but I thought a brief introduction is in It’s place for potential newcomers to the hobby. I took the liberty to borrow the historical background from the Caldercraft Victory- building manual.
 
Forever associated with Nelson’s last battle, HMS Victory is one of the most famous ships of all time, and is now preserved as a major part of the Royal Naval Museum in Portsmouth. The ship’s survival is particularly appropriate since Victory is not only an example of the ultimate sailing warship “ the three decker first rate “but she was also the most popular and successful 100-Gun ship of the period. Forty years old by the time of Trafalgar (1805), she had been the flagship of half a
dozen Admirals, and was to continue in active service until 1812.
 
This was not the first ship of the Royal Navy to bear the name Victory; there were in fact four predecessors. This the fifth Victory, was one of the twelve ships ordered by the Navy board on Jun 6th 1759. Designed by sir Thomas Slade, construction began at Chatham Dockyard on July 23rd 1759. This, the year of victories, marked the turning point of the “seven years war” for Britain. These facts may well have played a significant part in the naming of the vessel
and the name Victory being restored to the Admiralty list of ships.
During the battle of Trafalgar Admiral Lord Nelson was struck by a musket fired from the French ship Redoubtable. As Nelson died some three hours later he was heard to say: “Thank god, I have done my duty.”


HMS Victory kit; Many to
choose from


There are several kits of HMS Victory available with a wide range of scale, quality and prize levels. I have listed the ones that comes to mind

Caldercraft/Jotika: Considered by many as the best but also the most expensive

Constructo:                         Often criticized forlack of quality.

Panart:                                Don’t know much about this kit

Mamoli:                              Don’t know much about this one either

Corel:                                  Described in detail below
 
My thoughts of the Corel HMS
Victory kit


Materials
The wood is 5mm plywood for the keel and framing, fibreboard for the first planking and walnut for the second planking. Deck planking wood is Tanganika. Fittings are made from pressed wood, metal casting and brass The pressed wood parts after a slight heating gets amazingly easy to handle.
The general wood quality is excellent and there is no lacking in materials to work with.

Annoying that some pressed wood parts are to short (ornamentations on the side of the ship).
Also the gallery window construction is not accurate but a little scratch work can do wonders.

Plans
Some of the plans are in scale but most of them are out of scale and in strange angels which makes it hard to take measurements.
 
Rigging plans………………………..
You will no doubt need to do further studies form other sources if you wish to build an accurate model of the HMS Victory. I recommend getting the “Ships anatomy 100gun tallship HMS Victory” a book that were of great help to me.
 
Manual
The manual demand a lot of knowledge from the builder. It is written in a general manner and there are no pictures in the actual manual. Also the descriptions are not very detailed often referring to the plans described above. As a whole the
manual is 7 pages A3 in very small text making it hard to read. I did not find much use of the manual and ended up mostly using the plans and pictures gathered from books and the web.

Build experience
With some scratchbuilt additions you can produce a great Victory-model but this is not a kit for the novice. I have had a wonderful time building this model because of it’s inbound challenge, the model has forced me to do a lot of research and
reading which I personally find rewarding. Also the lacking in instructions and plans has given me a significant boost in building skills.
 
Summary
The Corel Victory is as said before not a beginner’s kit perhaps even not intermediate. This is not because of demand of advanced building skills but due to the shortcomings of the manual and plans. The quality of the wood and materials of
the kit compensates a lot for these shortcomings and therefore the building experience of the kit has to be considered as Very good. I’d say that if you are looking for a Victory-kit to base a bash-build on this is the one to use. If you are looking for historical accuracy or instructions that give you all you need there are better kits out there.
 
In short: Challenging model kit, very poor instructions, plans in strange angles and often out of scale making messurments hard, Very high quality wood: Better than my CC Vic actually. (That could be a coincident though)
 
PICTURES TO COME
 
Erik


 
 


 

Hello
 
Treenails, lots of them    
 
I make them from bamboo barbecue sticks using a drawplate from Byrnes Machines.
they are about 0,4mm. The holes are drilled with a pinwise equiped with a archimedes screw
a very neat and useful tool that allows you to press the drill whithout having to turn it
by hand.
 
I added a picture of my birthdaypresent aswell. A pair of excellent magnifying glases, the glasses can easily be changed between 1,5, 2,5 and 3,5 times magnification.
 
Erik

Hello
 
Thanks for the guidance, having read your answers I started to mess around with some apple strips.
From my plans I could find that the joint is 20mm so I messured out a diagonal through 20mm on a plank
 
Then I cut the strip on the table saw and rubber glued (gummi klister) the two pieces together. A bit of sanding on a disc sander to ensure a perfect surface.
 
Then I marked the middle of the cut, set the table saw blade on a 1,5mm hight and started to cut out a notch.
 
Separating the strips and well nothing less than magic, I had two fitting strips
 
Very little sanding was needed to fit the parts resulting in a joint that was actually har to see
Believe me I was surprised !!
 
I then tried to use a bit of black acid free paper for chaulking, it weakened the joint but made it visible. I will not use paper on my actual ship as that would make this particular joint scream out from the rest of the planking.  
 

Hello
 
Thanks for the guidance, having read your answers I started to mess around with some apple strips.
From my plans I could find that the joint is 20mm so I messured out a diagonal through 20mm on a plank
 
Then I cut the strip on the table saw and rubber glued (gummi klister) the two pieces together. A bit of sanding on a disc sander to ensure a perfect surface.
 
Then I marked the middle of the cut, set the table saw blade on a 1,5mm hight and started to cut out a notch.
 
Separating the strips and well nothing less than magic, I had two fitting strips
 
Very little sanding was needed to fit the parts resulting in a joint that was actually har to see
Believe me I was surprised !!
 
I then tried to use a bit of black acid free paper for chaulking, it weakened the joint but made it visible. I will not use paper on my actual ship as that would make this particular joint scream out from the rest of the planking.  
 

Messing around with treenails and ebony.
Trenails are made from those bamboo barbeque sticks using a drawplate.
They are about 0,4 mm in diameter.

I have to admit the rig is not yet finished, I have some ratlines to do but theese wil be dealt with in time.
 
Comments. questions and well whatever is always wellcome.
 
Erik

Hello
 
Thanks for the guidance, having read your answers I started to mess around with some apple strips.
From my plans I could find that the joint is 20mm so I messured out a diagonal through 20mm on a plank
 
Then I cut the strip on the table saw and rubber glued (gummi klister) the two pieces together. A bit of sanding on a disc sander to ensure a perfect surface.
 
Then I marked the middle of the cut, set the table saw blade on a 1,5mm hight and started to cut out a notch.
 
Separating the strips and well nothing less than magic, I had two fitting strips
 
Very little sanding was needed to fit the parts resulting in a joint that was actually har to see
Believe me I was surprised !!
 
I then tried to use a bit of black acid free paper for chaulking, it weakened the joint but made it visible. I will not use paper on my actual ship as that would make this particular joint scream out from the rest of the planking.  
 

And some planks after a bit of sanding.
 
It seems I can never achieve that fantastic clean look that one strives for but I keep trying.

Hi
 
What to say about this high end kit.....
They do not come any better or then again, more expencive.
Building this kit makes one wonder why scratch has not been an option. Then again without building this kit, scratch would not have been an option for me........just saying  
 
Rather than trying to rebuild my buildlog trying to recooperate any disscussions on the way I will repost as many pictures as I can and hopfully questions will follow bringing this log along with others of the same kit to life.
 
Here we go.

Hello
 
Thanks for the guidance, having read your answers I started to mess around with some apple strips.
From my plans I could find that the joint is 20mm so I messured out a diagonal through 20mm on a plank
 
Then I cut the strip on the table saw and rubber glued (gummi klister) the two pieces together. A bit of sanding on a disc sander to ensure a perfect surface.
 
Then I marked the middle of the cut, set the table saw blade on a 1,5mm hight and started to cut out a notch.
 
Separating the strips and well nothing less than magic, I had two fitting strips
 
Very little sanding was needed to fit the parts resulting in a joint that was actually har to see
Believe me I was surprised !!
 
I then tried to use a bit of black acid free paper for chaulking, it weakened the joint but made it visible. I will not use paper on my actual ship as that would make this particular joint scream out from the rest of the planking.  
 

I have to admit the rig is not yet finished, I have some ratlines to do but theese wil be dealt with in time.
 
Comments. questions and well whatever is always wellcome.
 
Erik

My Fair American finished and mounted on a display-board built from some mahogany I had in my closet. One detail is still missing and that is the personal nameplate that is provided free of charge from Lauck Street Shipyards upon completion of the model.
This project was started in October of 2007 and finished by May 2008.
 
Thanks for Viewing
 
Erik


 

We have seen all kinds of bases for model ships before so I thought I’d do something original.
I wanted to create a visualisation of the ships frames being carved directly from a tree. I used a few billet scrap peaces some wire for strength and some plastacine clay and paint to create a tree-stub. I hope the pictures speak for them self

Thanks Joe
 
But as this topic is meant as a review of a specific kit, I dont think mixing up the pictures with scratch built versions of the ship is a good idea. 
I suggest that you create a topic of your own and post the pictures there as I´m sure many are interrested to see them. Make sure that Copyright wont be an issue first though.
 
Regards
Erik

A few more pictures showing different stages of fairing. The high quality cherry that the frames are made of has a beautiful clean finish to them after fairing down to using 400grit sandpaper. I covered the keel with tape to protect it from the sandpaper used for the frames.
(Note the old MSW in the background)


 

Construction starts by assembling the keel which is layered by several parts to form the notches for the frames. I had to read the manual several times to wrap my head around this but in the end it was not that complicated once I understood the basic idea. There has been an update to the kits construction after the first few kits which calls for reading the manual THOROUGHLY  especially concerning the assembly of the keel.

BLFA1 :Principle of layers creating nothches. This principle is used throughout construction of the ship.

BLFA2:Notches and rabbet-line of the keel