rcmdrvr

Your experience with ship modelling and your skill in working with wood and metal to fashion the details of your models really stands out in the photos.  I really like the decking and the details of the deck cabins.  I will follow this build to learn more.

Well, I went ahead and stained the hull using a rust-o-leum light oak polyurethane.  While not great, it does look better than the raw wood.  I also added the railings and a bow cap.  The railings were made from six laser cut pieces.  They fit fairly well.  The bow cap was fashioned from 3 mm square oak.  I cut out the notches for the rope using a dremel tool fitted with a grinding wheel.  The hull is now ready for the similuated rope weaving.

With the framing complete, planking is the next step.  Because of the relatively narrow shape of the hull; faring is not difficult.  I used a small sander made from a paint stir stick and self adhesive sandpaper (100 grit).  In a few minutes I was done.  All of the planks are laser cut in sheets of very thin ply wood.  They are easily removed and lightly sanded to reduce the char edge.  Planking begins with the bottom of the hull.  There are some sharp bends at the bow and stern.  I soaked the ply in water for a few moments and then bent the ply around a hot curling iron.  Worked well (you can see the bends in a previous post).  Planking the sides was relatively easy, except the laser cut pieces did not fit as well as I would have hoped.  Considerable bending and twisting was required to get the edges reasonably close.   I tried to remind myself that this is the model of an ancient boat and the actual pieces would not have fit very well.  The planking process left the bow and stern areas very rough.  I decided to add "doublers" to hide the crude edges and add strength for the lashing to come.
 
Once I completed the basic planking the instructions showed the addition of a doubler along the top plank of each side.  How to install this piece became a bit puzzling.  The instruction booklet mentions the piece but does not show its positioning.  A photo of the model on the box makes it appear to be on the outside whereas the technical drawings indicate it is inside.  I decided to affix it to the inside of the hull.  The last photo is of the completed hull.
 
I now have to decide wether or not to stain the hull.  I think it needs it.  The char lines are just too obvious.

Well, I went ahead and stained the hull using a rust-o-leum light oak polyurethane.  While not great, it does look better than the raw wood.  I also added the railings and a bow cap.  The railings were made from six laser cut pieces.  They fit fairly well.  The bow cap was fashioned from 3 mm square oak.  I cut out the notches for the rope using a dremel tool fitted with a grinding wheel.  The hull is now ready for the similuated rope weaving.

Well, I went ahead and stained the hull using a rust-o-leum light oak polyurethane.  While not great, it does look better than the raw wood.  I also added the railings and a bow cap.  The railings were made from six laser cut pieces.  They fit fairly well.  The bow cap was fashioned from 3 mm square oak.  I cut out the notches for the rope using a dremel tool fitted with a grinding wheel.  The hull is now ready for the similuated rope weaving.

I tend to keep various sizes of basswood sticks and sheets.  I also use very thin plywood you can find in a hobby shop.  The more exotic woods I tend to rely on the kit.  I have made many a part from scapes.  A box of round toothpicks is great to keep around for all sorts of tasks.  I also keep popsicle sticks around.  Combine then with adhesive sandpaper of various grits and you can make some great custom tools.

The next step in the build was to construct the inside of the hull that will be viewed when the model is complete.  This involved sliding some laser cut plywood pieces between the bound frames and the planks.  These pieces will form the simulated decking of the hull interior.  Next I fashioned the wood pieces that are used to simulate the wood and rope used to bind the decking.  It is half dowels all cut to the same length and then wrapped with thread to simulate the bindings.  These are then glued to the plywood decking.  I think the attached photos will give you an idea of the process.

The next step in the build was to construct the inside of the hull that will be viewed when the model is complete.  This involved sliding some laser cut plywood pieces between the bound frames and the planks.  These pieces will form the simulated decking of the hull interior.  Next I fashioned the wood pieces that are used to simulate the wood and rope used to bind the decking.  It is half dowels all cut to the same length and then wrapped with thread to simulate the bindings.  These are then glued to the plywood decking.  I think the attached photos will give you an idea of the process.

A critique includes postives and negatives and many folks do not take kindly to the negatives so a lot of the more experienced builders avoid saying anything to avoid repercussions. 
Allan
 
 

Hello, first time poster and I hope I'm posting in the appropriate area of the forums. I have a few years of off and on model building experience from easy to advanced plastic kits. My experience with ships in general has been very sour, due to poor quality kits and have never been finished. I currently have 1 completed plastic ship kit, and it was from a film/animation and not historically accurate.
 
Like most, I knew people with big ship models on display in their home; however these were all bought prebuilt. Else I would have started my journey sooner. After much research I started searching for my first. I found an Amazon kit that had a comment that said the kit was labeled "beginner" but they explained it was more of an intermediate. They did however point the readers towards the Model Expo Series for beginners. That new to purchase a Lowell Grand Banks Dory rowboat kit from them, plank on frame. So here I am.
 
Log 1-3  - A Wookies Dory Trials.
I joined MSW late in my project, as I had questions. I have made it to the prep stage of planking, as seen below.

 
I ran into a few problems and have tried to flex my problem solving, in order to make it this far. First I broke a small part, which I haven't used yet, so that's a future issue that will be addressed. Then I broke frame 5, but fixed it with Gorilla Extra Strong Wood glue. Later in the assembly I snapped frame 3 on both sides, in the same place as frame 5; the small tabs that slot into the... Upper bulkhead sort of section of the frame. I fixed this as well, hoping it doesn't bite me later as a weak part. My issue currently is on the clearness of the Bevel step? The manual explains that transom, stem, bottom and frames all need beveled. I have started to bevel the stem, as shown in the singular included image. I sanded both sides to a 45* till they meet and the char begins to vanish.
 
I feel this is correct, but I am going by the image in the manual. I tried to look online for some clarity and found a forum somewhere that someone had mentioned that beveling the bottom isn't necessary and can cause issues later while planking. I need to know if that's true. I am doing my best to complete this, right, the first time. As not to learn any bad habits. Do I now bevel a 45 or appropriate angle into just the fine edge of the transom? It says to skip frame 3, when beveling these. I am holding a piece of the left over wood from the previous steps against the side to get a general idea of where bevels on frames may be, and how much angle may be needed. I've seen images of transoms being overlapped, when planking, a great deal. Then I've seen images of frames and transoms with no bevel, being planked upt to the flat edges. Everything so far has been eyeballed, as far as plumbness. As I am working only with included tools. I have no straight edge, vise, or saw. A saw is only my last to get asap, as I am shooting pieces around the room trying to cut timber with a chisel #17 as instructed.  I also cannot clamp my ship to my desktop, as it was made from a door blank, it is thicker than any clamp I own. I am mostly just looking for some clarification to make sure I am not overlooking any crucial details, as I feel the manual is a bit lacking for a first model in the series. 
 

I sure that everyone who has built a wooden ship model has broken a piece, or two, or three.  I keep a supply of various types of lumber handy just for those times when I have to fashion a new part or even create a part that the kit did not provide.

I sure that everyone who has built a wooden ship model has broken a piece, or two, or three.  I keep a supply of various types of lumber handy just for those times when I have to fashion a new part or even create a part that the kit did not provide.

First of all, VTHokiEE, thank you for your comments.  I was disappointed in the fit of the planking.  I really had to wrestle to minimize the gaps between an upper and lower sheet.  I am hoping that the rope stitch, which comes later, will hide many of the gaps in the planking.  This is my first planking with laser cut parts.  I don't like it.  I would rather plank the more traditional way.
 
I did some testing on stains and settled a light oak stain by rust-to-leum I had purchased from the local hardware store.  I applied it with a cotton stick.  I will have some photos soon.

With the framing complete, planking is the next step.  Because of the relatively narrow shape of the hull; faring is not difficult.  I used a small sander made from a paint stir stick and self adhesive sandpaper (100 grit).  In a few minutes I was done.  All of the planks are laser cut in sheets of very thin ply wood.  They are easily removed and lightly sanded to reduce the char edge.  Planking begins with the bottom of the hull.  There are some sharp bends at the bow and stern.  I soaked the ply in water for a few moments and then bent the ply around a hot curling iron.  Worked well (you can see the bends in a previous post).  Planking the sides was relatively easy, except the laser cut pieces did not fit as well as I would have hoped.  Considerable bending and twisting was required to get the edges reasonably close.   I tried to remind myself that this is the model of an ancient boat and the actual pieces would not have fit very well.  The planking process left the bow and stern areas very rough.  I decided to add "doublers" to hide the crude edges and add strength for the lashing to come.
 
Once I completed the basic planking the instructions showed the addition of a doubler along the top plank of each side.  How to install this piece became a bit puzzling.  The instruction booklet mentions the piece but does not show its positioning.  A photo of the model on the box makes it appear to be on the outside whereas the technical drawings indicate it is inside.  I decided to affix it to the inside of the hull.  The last photo is of the completed hull.
 
I now have to decide wether or not to stain the hull.  I think it needs it.  The char lines are just too obvious.

As mentioned before, there will be an open space in the decking where the simulated interior can be viewed.  Construction of this interior begins with wrapping two slightly undersized frames with rope.  This process requires cutting groves in the botton of the frames so that the roped frames will not prevent the interior decking (installed later) to be positioned close to these frames.  After wrapping, the frames are glued to the main keel and a two posts are fashioned, installed and then wrapped.  This is the beginning of the process of simulating an ancient interior.

Construction begins pretty much the same as many other ship models.  Building the frames.  One interesting point is the the main "keel" piece has a one section between two frames cut out while all the others are solid.  Reading of the plans indicates that this section of the inner hull will be open for viewing whereas the remaining sections will be covered by decking.  The fit for the parts making up the frame was so-so.  A little shimming and thick CA was required for assembly.  I use Lego blocks to help me keep the frames square.  The fore and aft of the main keel piece are drilled so that some of the ropes which hold the planking to the frame can be simulated.

With the framing complete, planking is the next step.  Because of the relatively narrow shape of the hull; faring is not difficult.  I used a small sander made from a paint stir stick and self adhesive sandpaper (100 grit).  In a few minutes I was done.  All of the planks are laser cut in sheets of very thin ply wood.  They are easily removed and lightly sanded to reduce the char edge.  Planking begins with the bottom of the hull.  There are some sharp bends at the bow and stern.  I soaked the ply in water for a few moments and then bent the ply around a hot curling iron.  Worked well (you can see the bends in a previous post).  Planking the sides was relatively easy, except the laser cut pieces did not fit as well as I would have hoped.  Considerable bending and twisting was required to get the edges reasonably close.   I tried to remind myself that this is the model of an ancient boat and the actual pieces would not have fit very well.  The planking process left the bow and stern areas very rough.  I decided to add "doublers" to hide the crude edges and add strength for the lashing to come.
 
Once I completed the basic planking the instructions showed the addition of a doubler along the top plank of each side.  How to install this piece became a bit puzzling.  The instruction booklet mentions the piece but does not show its positioning.  A photo of the model on the box makes it appear to be on the outside whereas the technical drawings indicate it is inside.  I decided to affix it to the inside of the hull.  The last photo is of the completed hull.
 
I now have to decide wether or not to stain the hull.  I think it needs it.  The char lines are just too obvious.

Want to get onboard with everyone else and complement you build and your skills.  Someday I would like to try a go at the Cheerful.  Such a beautiful little ship.

I kind of agree with Wookie.  I have noticed some builds that have extensive comments from readers either making suggestions or admiring great work.  Many other builds do not get many comments or suggestions.  This can be very disheartening for the build author; especially the more novice of the forum that are looking for guidance and most of all support.  I think everyone who is a member of this forum knows that ship model building brings on quite a bit of anxiety and frustration that can lead to a modeller giving up on a project.  The encouragement that comes from other modellers commenting and encouraging you along helps many to complete their current project and maybe move onto the next.  I do get the occasional comment or suggestion some of which in my Cairo build really helped.  Mostly, however, I get likes.  Great; but I would really wish that members of this forum, especially you master builders, take a few minutes to offer your advice and encouragement to other builders.
 
Enought editorial.  Wookie, from your photos you are doing great.  Give us more.  I built this model and you will enjoy your final product.

Hull planking complete!!  Just needs a little more sanding and potentially a little wood filler in a couple of spots.  Overall, turned out pretty good for my first complete hull.  I spent some time thinking about how I would clamp the planks while the glue dried on the last belt.  I decided to use tape threaded through the hull and wrapped around the planks to hold them tight.  In hindsight, I probably could have used this method earlier for belts "A" and "B".  It did a good job holding the planks and did not damage them like the clamps I had used earlier.  So glad to have that done...on to the decking...
Tim
 

As mentioned before, there will be an open space in the decking where the simulated interior can be viewed.  Construction of this interior begins with wrapping two slightly undersized frames with rope.  This process requires cutting groves in the botton of the frames so that the roped frames will not prevent the interior decking (installed later) to be positioned close to these frames.  After wrapping, the frames are glued to the main keel and a two posts are fashioned, installed and then wrapped.  This is the beginning of the process of simulating an ancient interior.

A great combination of different materials.  I have worked in 1/350 scale and found it challenging.  The results you are achieving in 1/700 scale are really impressive.

As mentioned before, there will be an open space in the decking where the simulated interior can be viewed.  Construction of this interior begins with wrapping two slightly undersized frames with rope.  This process requires cutting groves in the botton of the frames so that the roped frames will not prevent the interior decking (installed later) to be positioned close to these frames.  After wrapping, the frames are glued to the main keel and a two posts are fashioned, installed and then wrapped.  This is the beginning of the process of simulating an ancient interior.

A great combination of different materials.  I have worked in 1/350 scale and found it challenging.  The results you are achieving in 1/700 scale are really impressive.

Eight or nine years ago I was fortunate enough to take a river cruise up the Nile and visit some of Egypt's great historical sites. I also had the opportunity to walk thru some great museums many of which contained models of the ships that plied the river in the ancient days.  A year of so after the trip I came across this Amati model of an ancient Egyptian ship.  The box claims that it is a replica of a ship, the image of which was chiseled into the stone of a tomb or temple.  I immediately purchased the model and the kit sat in my "stash" for severl years.  It has finally found its way to my workbench.
 
One of the interesting aspects of ancient shipbuilding, there were no drills to make holes for pegs or nails; so the ship was crafted by shaping the wood with crude iron tools and then using ropes of various sizes to lash the wooden pieces together.  While I will be using modern cutting tools and adhesives, one of my main objectives is make a model that at least appears to have been built by the same methods as the ancients.  There is another build log of this ship that I have reviewed and may refer to at times as I proceed with my build.
 
Before I even begin the construction I have a decision to make.  Much of the materials in the kit used to construct the hull are laser cut ply.  It is quite light in color and has the typical burnt edges.  I will try to sand most of the dark edges away (hopefully without distorting the part).  The problem is should I try to stain the  hull or just leave it natural.  If I decide to stain; it looks like I will have to do this relatively early in the build.  Definitely before I begin the rope lashing steps.  Second issue, should I decide to stain, what should I use.  I have no experience with staining.  Perhaps a search thru the forum will give me some insight.
 
Well that is my introduction.  I urge you to leave written comments; especially those that might help me through the build.  Well, thanks for reading.