Piet

Hey Jesse

That's really clever and skilful work on the hinges. I know that if I tried something similar, well, it'd probably split (and I'd need to go to see the local Catholic priest for confession-too much swearing!!!). What's your secret?

Incidentally, you're not alone with the photos loading out of order. I have exactly the same problem too. On a slightly different note, I also seem to receive posts out of order as well. For instance, your posts about the sea and placement of the hull into it, didn't appear until now, ie after the posts about the paper bulwarks. Strange, though, but it's not the end of the world.

Anyhow, I'm looking forward to your next instalment
.

Cheers

Patrick

Now the last 2.......

Glad to have you back with us.
David B

Back home.... Pain free....Hope to do some updates on SOS pretty soon.
Considerable progress made over the last couple of weeks, just didn't feel up to the posting routine.
Thank you one and all for all the best wishes. This has been quite an ordeal.
BTW.... Here's the last thing I saw in the waiting room lobby.... Thought I should share it with my MSW friends.

Wow, Patrick, it seems small is no challenge in the sence of difficult ... it is a challenge in creativity for you ... well done mate

I hope you give us a free cruise ticket .

The cushions are great.  Is that thinking outside the box or just using the box?
 
Bob

Patrick your ketch is more like a work of art than a model.
David B

wonderful Patrick,
 
there is so much to discover on your ship, lovely details all over and under the decks...
 
Nils

Hi everyone
 
Today I got a chance to start on the cockpit area which is located in the middle of the huge cabin and leads down through the companionway below decks.  The real ship has striped cushions and a large folding dining table in the cockpit, which is perfect for entertaining guests.
 
In order to simulate the striped cushions, the best I could come up with was to use part of the barcode of an Uncle Toby's muesli-bar box.    Not exactly like the real cushions, but, pretty close and not too shabby at this teeny tiny size.
 
I hope you enjoy these photos.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick 

Many thanks to Patrick, Ioannis, David and Bob,
and the "likes"...
 
as the outer deck railings will be only 8mm high, I decided to favour rather foto etched stripes from copper sheet. instead of built railing with stanchions. Have to work out a suitable way to fasten These to the related hull /deck Areas. The ordered samples unfortunately did`nt arrive this week. The upper most of the 6-chord railing is the handrail which is of Wood on the actual ship, but in scale 1:144 I`ll have to put on a very small U-shaped brass liner stradling over the upper edge, and paint it in wood color. (at least thats my Intension, if there comes no better solution to mind)
 
Nils

She's coming along nicely, and she's being build in a fine space.
 
Bob

Your model is really taking shape I can hardly wait to see the super structure. Good idea to use a scale figure to determine deck height.
David B

Your method and generally your work is accurate as surgeon.
keep walking Niels

Hi Nils
 
Thanks for the update. Nice progress! I like the idea of being able to hang the plans, so that it's easily studied.
 
Also, I never realised how big the ship must have been untiI I saw the scale sized figurine.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Update for forecastle- and first waist deck,
 
It all looks a bit rough in the moment, The front waist-deck was made to the card template and can now be removed for planking. Need to check the hights with the little 1:144 figurine
 
The forecastle deck will need the anchor tubes with suit taylored outlets to the bow sides fitted in, before it is planked( only about 2/3 of it`s area (pics will follow later on )
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
my little room for the rough work
 
 

 
I fixed a preliminary,horizontal  (loosenable) steel-rail, to which the drawing can be clipped (magnets)
 
 

 
The funnel arrangement in two groups provides the first class dining resaurant and lounges to go over the full width of the ship, this has been well accepted by the passengers, This design had also been adopted for the follower liners of the Norddeutscher Lloyd, and gave an unmistakenable silhouette for identification from the distance
 

 
three deck high, and over the ship`s width, the 1 st class dining saloon
 
 

 
the little white figure is used for determining the correct deck-highjts
 
 

 
here the deck curvature can be nicely seen
 
 

 
when clicking on this pic (to enlarge) the hand drawn frame distances on the drawing can be seen. I chose 26 frames over the ship`s length
 
 

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 13 – Stem/Keel/Sternpost 2
 
The keel for this version of the model was made exactly like the keel on the framed version – in two tiers plus a shoe and with hooked scarph joints – but without the water stops and joint wedges.  I did not take pictures of the joinery work.  This was described in the posts for the framed version.  The first picture shows the upper tier being glued together using strips of wood to keep it straight.
 

 
The pieces of the lower tier are shown below the glued assembly before their joints were cut.  In the next picture the keel assembly with the two tiers and the shoe has been glued to the false stem assembly and the stem is being glued into the angle between the two assemblies.
 

 
The stem and keel were taped to the drawing to preserve alignment when fitting and gluing the stem into place.  The stem provided enough reinforcement to prevent to stem shape from distorting in the next steps.
 
In the next picture the stem/keel assembly has been fit up to the inverted hull for final fitting.
 

 
It can be seen in the picture that some shaping of the forward hull is needed.  This was left rough and slightly large.  The station marks accented in the picture were used to get the assembly correctly positioned as the forward curve of the hull was trimmed.  In the next picture the fitted assembly has been drilled with mounting bolt holes to match those on the hull and is being test fit.
 

 
With the stem/keel still unglued, the hull was bolted down on the shipway and plumbed so the stem could be centered.  The next picture shows the hull being marked to show the sides of the stem.
 

 
This allowed the forward deadwood to be trimmed to match the stem while the stem was removed and safe from damage.  The next picture shows the fairing to the stem sides.
 

 
The stem was next refitted and aligned to the marks so locating pin holes could be drilled as shown in the next picture.
 

 
Before attaching the stem/keel assembly, some additional work was required at the stern – to be covered next time.
 
Ed

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 12 – Stem/Keel/Sternpost 1
 
The stem assembly, keel and sternpost on the POB model are virtually identical to their counterparts on the framed model except for scale and the deletion of a few unnecessary internal structural parts.  Unlike the framed version that started construction with this work, on the POB model they were made and installed after the hull was shaped.
 
In keeping with the concept of simpler tools and readily available materials for this version, scale members were all cut from ¾” (4/4) material.  For the stem/keel/sternpost, hard maple was used – with pieces selected for straight grain.  Becaused of its visible grain pattern I would only use maple where work will be painted or metal sheathed.
 
The POB model did not require the thickness sander or band saw.  Members were sized using circular saws.  If ¾” hardwood can be ripped on an available 4” model circular saw, ripping stock to required dimensions is just a matter of setting the rip fence and cutting.  On the full-sized  (10”) table saw that I used, a different method was adopted.  The first picture shows stock for the 16” wide keel about to be ripped off of a piece of 3/4” maple.
 

 
Although cutting sized strips away from the rip fence as shown takes a bit more setup time, it is much safer and eliminates damage to small thicknesses left between the fence and the blade.  It also avoids having them come out of the saw at high velocity. The blade in the picture is an ultra-thin kerf (.080"), 40-tooth carbide blade that leaves a very clean surface on the strip.  The Plexiglas® table insert was specially made for close clearance to this blade.  The next picture shows the ripped 16” strip being checked for size.
 

 
I usually start with a very small cut into the plank and measure what will be the resulting strip thickness, then adjust the fence if necessary before cutting off the whole strip.  This was then repeated for each cut.  The ¾” strips were then used to make sections of the keel and the other components.
 
In the next picture the POB stem pieces are shown on a copy of the pattern sheet.
 

 
All were able to be cut from the ¾” inch stock except for the lower stem as shown above.  On the original ship this piece would have been cut from a very large piece of compass timber – probably live oak for strength.  On this model, two pieces of edge-glued ¾” maple were used.  The next picture shows the two pieces used for this being edge glued.
 

 
Undarkened Titebond® was used for this to minimize joint visibility, although on this model all this will be covered by metal sheathing. The long straight piece in the picture is being used to make sure the two glued pieces lie flat.
 
The next picture shows the four stem pieces cut out and ready for fitting. Dashed lines around the patterns show ¾” stock.
 

 
The pieces were cut on the scroll saw very close to the pattern lines, then dressed with a file for final fitting – as shown below.
 

 
The patterns were left pasted on for all of this work.  In the next picture,, the false stem  (the members forward of the stem proper) have been fitted and aligned on the drawing.
 

 
The false stem pieces are being glued in the next picture.
 

 
Alignment is again provided by the drawing.  To be continued…
 
 
Ed

Pedestals
 
Not a lot to say - I turned the Mounting Pedestals on the lathe and cut the slots with the mill. They'll need slight adjustments to the slots to fit the hull. No finish has been applied yet :
 

 

 
 Danny:

I think the contrast in cable thickness will be a definite plus, and will look awesome Dennis.  As I said, "probably just me". Perspective can do weird things with my eyeballs. -- Now where's my glasses?    

thanks for the good word and the likes      only one more day.......then I'm on vacation again     then I can get back to her 
 
the TRMA,  as well as photos I've seen George  suggest this.   besides,  I don't believe that the single size thread that the kit supplied,  is the only size cabling for the entire build.  like the masts........the thicker thread is for the main stays,  the thinner thread is for the lower lesser support cables.  I think the mix of thread sizes will enhance the looks.
 
tell Urmila thank you for me,  Ed.........another one of those extra special hugs is in order 
 
it would look better Nils if they were all rigged......soon my friend.    it would even have been better,  if I had seen the lower cables,  and added them in.  they would have given more contrast........use the thinner thread for them.
 
those braces in the hull are supplied in the kit S.coleman....I added in the cables for the cranes.   nearly broke them drilling the holes.   it was worth it though    there is some warpage at the stern........I have the bow section cemented in place already.   I'll have to make something to pull the hull together,  when I do the stern section.
 
don't think you have much to worry about Patrick.........your past builds show that you have a great command of the paint brush     modeling in such a small scale is no easy feat .
 
thanks again for your kind comments........I hope to have an update soon 

Your Titanic is really coming together your attention to detail is astiunding.
David B

very nice update Denis,
 
it pays off that you were patiently concentrating on the Quality of the details before the assembly begins...
 
  Nils

Hello Denis,you never seem to ebb,just keep going like the duracell ad says. Producing good quality workmanship in fact Urmilla just looked over my shoulder and said "just brilliant". Edwin