Piet

The testing of various ways of dealing with the small fittings is now completed for the most part,
 

 
and the final model parts in scale are coming together well. That said I am contemplating the false union at the junction with the cylinder and wondering if I can actually make one that works as a real union. Cutting a thread on some 1/8th diameter is not a problem usually the standard thread in imperial being a 5x40 the only problem is that at this scale that is an extremely coarse thread.
 
The elements are now in scale and the tubing is 3/32.
 

 

 

 
I am thinking that if I can make a thread cutter that will cut say 5x80 then that would be a much better size for the union, the concern that I have is if the whole lot were soldered together then separating the cylinder from the crankcase would be problematic, because there would be too much piping hanging off the cylinder and therefore easy to damage. In making the union actually work like a union it eliminates that problem.
 
The saga continues.
 
Thanks to all who are following along and commenting, providing useful tips, and for the likes.
 
I am happy that some of the methods I am using are useful to some of you. it is the least I can do for all the knowledge I have gained from you all who share your methods and tips.
 
Michael
 
 

The wood I am using for this build is Central American Rosewood, African Pearwood, and Guatambu (boxwood substitute) I ordered from Woodworkers Source which was one of the resources in the forum for materials. The wood they sent is very nice with straight grain. I would recommend them to others. 
 
I've started cutting planking for the upper deck (middle deck really, the quarter deck is above the upper deck). I'm using the Pearwood for the planking and the Byrnes table saw and thickness sander is ideal! Wish I had bought them years ago.
 

 
I applied natural Minwax to each of the woods and they look great together. 
 

 
I've build the hatch coamings and companionways out of the Pearwood using the method Dan Vadas showed for his Vulture build.
 

 

I added the upper deck frames by marking the deck according to the profile plans and then gluing curved plywood deck beams to the bulkheads. I started aft and worked forward adjusting a bit as I went using thick planking to make sure each beam was aligned. 
 

 

 
Next I built out the transom framing. The outer frames I shaped to match the framing forward of them so I can plank back to them. 
 

 

 
The cabin is curved and you can see the framing curved per the plans. 
 

 
The frames align with the lights. I left them long when I built them because I still wasn't sure how those would finish off.
 

Hi folks, 
 
I've decided to start a build log so I can share with folks that ask about my latest ship model. This will be HMS Surprise 100% scratch (if I can) built. It will be stained with no or very little painting. I've already made a couple of errors so I just assume that Dr. Materin has been doing some refitting after buying her out of the service.    The build is single plank on bulkhead. We'll see how that goes. This is my third build after Armed Virginia Sloop and Niagara so I expect some challenges. Just bought a Byrnes table saw and thicknesser and plan to purchase a lathe soon. I spend a lot of time reviewing Dan Vadas Vulture build so many of the things I do will be copied from Dan. (Thanks Dan!)
 
Pics to follow. 
 
Brian
 
Like others I bought the Lavery and Hunt book on Surprise, made copies of the drawings and then enlarged them to actual size. I am using one foot = 5mm which comes out to 1/61 scale. I like working in metric and this gives me about the right size model when complete. 
 

 
After enlarging and making several copies I cut out the bulkheads and used them to trace onto 5ply 1/4 ply. 
 

 
I was struggling to figure a good deck height so I cut the bulkheads lower than the deck should be so I could add the decks later. This also gave me more flexibility to move the bulkheads to adjust for the ports. 
 

 

 
Now we'll see if I'm adding the pictures correctly....
 
Brian

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Hoi Sjors,
 
@ Piet,
 
Thank you !
Are you building something or are you retired ?????????
Don't see your name anymore.....
 
Yes, I am retarded - uhm - - retired but not from ship building!  Right now I am building a model of a New England lobster smack from the 1850's.  This model will go for auction next April to generate money for a very worthy cause here, the Wounded Warrior fund.
 
That log is right here in the kit build section.
 
The O19 must take a backseat eight now till this little model is finished, then I can complete the O19 with a few more details and the display board and case.  After that I'll get back to the VOC ship model and perhaps a botter or kotter or a VOC Jacht in a lamp.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Very nice work Popeye and I really, really like your banter about all you plan and do.  It's more thinking out loud that keeps your logs interesting.  Thanks!
 
Cheers,

Hey, stuff happens Dave but it's better discovering outsized blocks now and having the sources for good new ones.  I'll take a few of your blocks off your hands - - IF they are scale 1:80 in Amsterdam feet    I can use a whole buch for my VOC ship.
 
Cheers,

Hoi Sjors,
 
@ Piet,
 
Thank you !
Are you building something or are you retired ?????????
Don't see your name anymore.....
 
Yes, I am retarded - uhm - - retired but not from ship building!  Right now I am building a model of a New England lobster smack from the 1850's.  This model will go for auction next April to generate money for a very worthy cause here, the Wounded Warrior fund.
 
That log is right here in the kit build section.
 
The O19 must take a backseat eight now till this little model is finished, then I can complete the O19 with a few more details and the display board and case.  After that I'll get back to the VOC ship model and perhaps a botter or kotter or a VOC Jacht in a lamp.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Very nice work Popeye and I really, really like your banter about all you plan and do.  It's more thinking out loud that keeps your logs interesting.  Thanks!
 
Cheers,

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Today - - - what did I do today - - - oh yeah, in the morning after my morning coffee I decided to make the trail boards.  Wont cement them on yet because I'm not sure yet how to finish them.  Yes, they'll be painted green but what kind of decorative motief to put on it.
Then there is the question of a name and where to put it.
 
I needed to scrape some of the white off  at the places where the trail boards are to be cemented.
 
I installed the bowsprit with my previously made hardware and also installed the lower stay. 
 
Then it was time for me to drive down to see my urologist / oncologist for the 3 month visual check.  I got a little scare last week.  His assistant called me and told me that the lab found questionable stuff in the urine sample.  Well, when the doc looked inside the bladder he was very pleased and told me that it looked perfect, better then three years ago when the cancer was found, not to worry about the lab findings.  This was good news and I'm a very happy camper  
 
After I came back I had to get my passport pics taken and complete my passport renewal forms.  Gwen wants to mail them out tomorrow.  Passports, did he say passports?  Yup, Gwen and ur daughter Marianne cooked up a plan to go to the Netherlands this June for three weeks!!!!!!          
 
Okay, I had some extra time and installed the mast.  I also installed the fore stay.  I used 0.1 mm brass wire for both the bowsprit and fore stay instead of the kit suggested black thread.  
 
To simulate turnbuckles I used small pieces of 1 mm brass tube.  I had to drill these out with a #72 drill bit so I could double the wire  back through them to secure it and then a touch of solder.
 
I think that I really need to make the display / mounting board for this little thing to give me a steady base for the rest of the rigging.  The kit suggested one is a joke and this little boat deserves something nicer.  I have a small plank of basswood that I can shape on my mini router and then stain it in oak, walnut or something like that.  I have two nice looking pillars for the keel to rest in.  We'll see how this basswood idea works out.  I looked in the craft sore but they had nothing I could use that looked anywhere near decent.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of today's efforts. 
 

This is a close-up pic taken with my Canon 100 mm macro lens.  I was too lazy to get my tripod and set the aperture smaller for better depth of field.  Here you can see the bolt I made a few days ago with two washers and a nut.  You can also the fuzzies from that #*^%@( boxwood on the samson post.  Looks like I need to take care of that too.  
 

Same camera setup.  Here we have a washer and the nut "screwed" on.  I secured it with a dab of CA.  I don't think that bowsprit is going anywhere soon 
 

Same camera setup.  Here you see the backstay installation.  You can also see where I scraped off some of the paint for the trail boards.
 

 
Cheers,

Well, it's been a few days but I was not sitting on my hands.  Had to do other things that took priority over model building.  Yes, there are a few more important things - - - when the Admiral suggests that something REALLY needs taken care of - - - 
 
In any case, I painted the trim work green and put some poly on the decks.  Looking okay but the trim needs some touching up.  That'll be an ongoing thing with me I'm afraid.  I keep seeing things that could be just a tad better.
 
While the paint was drying I started making the cabin door hinges from 0.1 mm brass shim, 1 mm brass tube with 0.5 mm brass rod for the hinge pins.  All very fiddling work but it went off like clock work, no problems.
 
Next came the job cementing these little parts to the doors and then the frame parts to the door frames.  First I cemented the door parts to the doors with CA. Okay, now to cement the frame parts.  I taped booth doors together front and back with masking tape and then set them int the door opening.  As the pics show I also secured the doors to the bulkhead.  Hey, my mommy didn't raise a dummy 
 
I then clamped the model into my small Proxxon vice by the cutwater so she stands bow down.  This way the door bulkhead is now horizontal.  The small fame parts could now be placed on the frames and slid into the hinge pins.  So far so good.  A little touch of CA and holding them tight against the frames till te CA had done its grasping job and presto, job done.
 
Now I had to give it the hingeing test and wouldn't you know it, one of the tubes was not soldered on correctly.  So, that one had to be redone and reinstalled.  No problem, just another 15 minutes and it was back on.
 
The only problem is that the doors won't open all the way when the fish bin hatches are on.  They'll just have to squeeze through a narrower opening, sorry guys     
 
I could now finish with paint touch-up on the door bulkhead.  I'll have Gwen, the Admiral, look at it tomorrow and let me know where else I need to touch-up.  
 
If the paint job is satisfactory then I can start with putting the bowsprit on and rigging that.  Then the mast and rigging it.  Hmmm, we are slowly getting there.  The sails will be a challenge for me 
 
Here are a few pics of my efforts of the last few days.
 

This shows the three parts that make up the door parts for the hinge.  A similar setup applies for the frame parts, except that I made them smaller as shown in the next picture.
 

This shows the completed door hinge assembly.  
 

This shows how I jigged the doors so I can cement the frame ends to the frames.  Sorry, I didn't take a pic with the boat bow down in the vice but it worked like a charm.
 

This is another shot of jigging the doors.
 

This shows the completion of the door hinge installation.  I think it looks a little better then the paper hinges I had on previously.  This is taken before I repainted the bulkhead.   
 

This is how my little sloop looks like as of today.
 
Cheers,

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Today - - - what did I do today - - - oh yeah, in the morning after my morning coffee I decided to make the trail boards.  Wont cement them on yet because I'm not sure yet how to finish them.  Yes, they'll be painted green but what kind of decorative motief to put on it.
Then there is the question of a name and where to put it.
 
I needed to scrape some of the white off  at the places where the trail boards are to be cemented.
 
I installed the bowsprit with my previously made hardware and also installed the lower stay. 
 
Then it was time for me to drive down to see my urologist / oncologist for the 3 month visual check.  I got a little scare last week.  His assistant called me and told me that the lab found questionable stuff in the urine sample.  Well, when the doc looked inside the bladder he was very pleased and told me that it looked perfect, better then three years ago when the cancer was found, not to worry about the lab findings.  This was good news and I'm a very happy camper  
 
After I came back I had to get my passport pics taken and complete my passport renewal forms.  Gwen wants to mail them out tomorrow.  Passports, did he say passports?  Yup, Gwen and ur daughter Marianne cooked up a plan to go to the Netherlands this June for three weeks!!!!!!          
 
Okay, I had some extra time and installed the mast.  I also installed the fore stay.  I used 0.1 mm brass wire for both the bowsprit and fore stay instead of the kit suggested black thread.  
 
To simulate turnbuckles I used small pieces of 1 mm brass tube.  I had to drill these out with a #72 drill bit so I could double the wire  back through them to secure it and then a touch of solder.
 
I think that I really need to make the display / mounting board for this little thing to give me a steady base for the rest of the rigging.  The kit suggested one is a joke and this little boat deserves something nicer.  I have a small plank of basswood that I can shape on my mini router and then stain it in oak, walnut or something like that.  I have two nice looking pillars for the keel to rest in.  We'll see how this basswood idea works out.  I looked in the craft sore but they had nothing I could use that looked anywhere near decent.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of today's efforts. 
 

This is a close-up pic taken with my Canon 100 mm macro lens.  I was too lazy to get my tripod and set the aperture smaller for better depth of field.  Here you can see the bolt I made a few days ago with two washers and a nut.  You can also the fuzzies from that #*^%@( boxwood on the samson post.  Looks like I need to take care of that too.  
 

Same camera setup.  Here we have a washer and the nut "screwed" on.  I secured it with a dab of CA.  I don't think that bowsprit is going anywhere soon 
 

Same camera setup.  Here you see the backstay installation.  You can also see where I scraped off some of the paint for the trail boards.
 

 
Cheers,

I decided to make the display board today.  I took a 3/8 inch by 6 inch basswood plank and routed the edges with my Proxxon hand tool.  I put the tool in the Poxxon drill press thingy and routed the edges.  Came out okay. 
 
I sanded the board with worn out 300 gritI sandpaper so as not to raise up the nap.  An old trick I learned from a furniture finisher.  Sometimes he would wet the surface to raise the nap and then sand it.  I then prepped it with a pre-stain conditioner and let it do its thing while I primed the centerboard.  Yeah, that thing has yet to be cemented to the keel and now that the model is raised on the pedestals I can finely install it.  After the stain has dried I'll rub the board with a soft cloth and then a piece of hardwood.  Another trick I learned when in aviation tech school.
 
I also modded both pedestals for the display board, making one a little shorter and the other a little longer by adding a wooden washer below it to make the waterline of the model close to to be parallel with the display board. 
 
When all that was done I figured that the pre-stain stuff had done its work and stained the board and the posts with white oak stain.  It came out surprisingly nice, even though it was basswood.  
 
Tomorrow I'll paint the centerboard white and cement it to the keel.  I'll also made two bamboo pins that'll go into the posts and keel to make it a sturdier on its legs so to speak.  
 
After the model is permanently mounted to the display board I can begin with the rigging and sails.
 
Here are a pics.
 

The display board - still fresh and sticky from the stain.  In real life it's a lot lighter in color.
 

This shows the model temporally mounted to the board. I put the mast on yesterday and when you squint real hard you can also see the forestay.  
 

This is a little closer up.  Oh yeah, I also made the centerboard puller upper cable with a handle on the end.  You can barely make it out but in this pic it's draped over one of the fish bin hatches.  
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone looking in and your comments but above all - your likes.
 
Hello Brian, thanks for dropping in and your suggestions.  What you did to the trail boards was rather ambitious to say the least.  That idea never occurred to me, I was thinking of just hand painting some simple line decoration on it.  I really like the idea of scroll cutting a design in the boards, that'll be the cats meow.  I have already gone way overboard with this thing soooooh, I can give it a try.
 
Hi Captain Bob, thanks my friend.
 
Cheers,

Hoi Sjors,
 
@ Piet,
 
Thank you !
Are you building something or are you retired ?????????
Don't see your name anymore.....
 
Yes, I am retarded - uhm - - retired but not from ship building!  Right now I am building a model of a New England lobster smack from the 1850's.  This model will go for auction next April to generate money for a very worthy cause here, the Wounded Warrior fund.
 
That log is right here in the kit build section.
 
The O19 must take a backseat eight now till this little model is finished, then I can complete the O19 with a few more details and the display board and case.  After that I'll get back to the VOC ship model and perhaps a botter or kotter or a VOC Jacht in a lamp.
 
Cheers,
 
 

Hi Piet, your smack is looking great! When I was making the trail boards on my model, I cut out the boards to the proper size then pencil drew on the scrolls they show on the blueprints included with the kit. When the drawings came out satisfactory enough, I took my dremel to make a hole in one small place in the carvings, like the middle or something. Then found a loose wire blade for a Craftsman scroll saw and manually cut out the details. For my first time trying that I think it turned out decent. Once the details had been properly cut, I painted the pieces black and used a heat bender to help give the pieces their proper curvature.  Hope this helps you.
 
Brian

Well done,  she's looking better all the time.
 
Bob

Hey, stuff happens Dave but it's better discovering outsized blocks now and having the sources for good new ones.  I'll take a few of your blocks off your hands - - IF they are scale 1:80 in Amsterdam feet    I can use a whole buch for my VOC ship.
 
Cheers,

Very nice work Popeye and I really, really like your banter about all you plan and do.  It's more thinking out loud that keeps your logs interesting.  Thanks!
 
Cheers,

Began the morning with a real downer. Ready to begin rigging spars for both Mayflowers and discovered that all the blocks in my boneyard are too large for either of these ships. My bad!
So now, I'll work on shaping the larger scale spars while I must wait for Model Expo to ship me my blocks.
Then remembered, a friend had recommended the Syren Company's blocks as being much better quality.... So I placed an order with Chuck.
I'm going to have blocks coming out my yang!
 
Pretty excited to begin their riggings....