Piet

I have completed the length of chain required. In the end I produced one with about 240 links. In fact once I got me eye in it didn't take long - about 15 minutes to create 30 links and then about 15 seconds each to add a link to the chain. Need the jewelers lens to do this.
 
Nenad, I suggest you rope in your local knitting circle if you want to produce large quantities of chain this size.
 
I also produced a few homemade split pins with 0.6mm eyes and a few slightly larger round links to hook the chain to the spectacle plate. 
 
All these items were then blackened.
 

 
They were all then fitted in place. I put a baton across the stern in which to mount the split pins. I looked at various models and actual ships to try to decide where to position it. The incorrect stern shape and lack of stern post required somewhat of a compromise. The outer ends of the chain are just hanging for now.
 
 
 
 

Mike,
 
Yes it is indeed for the rudder chains. It is worth noting that the same shape of metal work but with plain glass in the holes was mounted vertically over the fireboxes of steam locomotives in front of the crew and was also called the spectacle plate. And of course with lenses in we stick them on our heads and call them spectacles (though now most people call them glasses). My 3 year old granddaughter told her teacher that "Everyone wears glasses except my granddad. HE wears spectacles."
 
If you were here I suspect it would only take me 5 minutes to teach you what you don't already know. The rest of the afternoon would be better spent wandering around the nearby Derbyshire Peaks.
 
BE,  below some chain that I produced using the info that you pulled together in your Pegasus log. Based on 1 inch bar (scale 0.25mm) and 4 inch links (1mm) I used 28 gauge brass beading wire (0.3mm diameter) and a 1mm by 0.4mm cross section former. I used the usual method of wrapping the wire many times around the former then used a piercing saw to cut along the links to separate them. After each turn I used the pliers to gently squeeze the turn to ensure an oval shape. The result after several hours work was 2.2cm of chain (about 22 links). I need about 160 links.
 

 
To be honest it looks no better than some of the cheap jewelry that Woolworths used to sell (shame they went bankrupt).
 
I have only one decent pair of fine tweezers and to do a quicker more efficient job I could do with two. The small pliers are rather too large for this job.

Guys, Thank you very much for the kind words and suggestions. I think I am swaying towards the "boxwood" effect for the castings. I will have to get my paint shop organised.
 
Gianni, I would have liked to put a name below the lights on the stern. The problem I felt about blanking out the lowest row of panes was that the lights would then be too high with the tops above the quarter deck line. I spent a fair bit of time debating this point before I started!
 
Well I have been doing a bit of milling to produce a spectacle plate for the rudder. I clamped a suitable piece of brass to the mill table. First I milled its thickness down to 2mm. This is probably too thick but the Corel hinge parts are quite wide (there are only 3 sets) so I felt this thickness would be consistent.
 
Next up was to run the milling bit across the end to make it square, then drilled two 0.8mm holes 6mm apart across the piece. Then with a 5mm milling bit lined up with the mid point of the two holes I cut out the central slot. The rest was shaped using a 1.5mm mill bit including squaring up the central slot. Also the eyes were thinned down. The result is in the first image.
 

 
The brass was turned over and the eyes were thinned from the other side. The spectacle plate was then parted off giving 7mm long legs. Each leg had a pair 0.8mm holes drilled in them. The shape was then improved by hand filing.
 

 
Next was a test fitting to the rudder.
 

 
Before fixing this in place I will make some chain with 1mm links (BE has some useful info in this area in his Pegasus log page 56 entry 834 (link) . I am also contemplating a rudder coat. Hum.
 
 

Does this sound familiar :
 
" ...I think grass need to be cutted, it will rain, so before rain there is right time..."
 
And do you think considering next pictures it was necessary ?
 

 

 
I do not think so
 
But I was running after grass cutter 3 hours on 300C
 
Love makes miracles
 
In new avatar is my happy face in cigarette break on my favorite place in backyard with deepest shadow  
 
Evening spent with my twin brother and his family, and no working on Her except making another 200 pieces of plates

The head (continued):
 
Making of the upper cheeks is more or less a repetition of the last job:

cutting out the cheeks (a little bit larger than required), bending and sanding to shape:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
After painting the cheeks are glued on to the head:
 

 

 
 
 
Klaus

There's still pie and ice cream left... whoopee!!!!   We didn't have to leave the house again this year as the stuff going off in the neighborhood was impressive... and noisy.. and need I add, messy.  Been picking up debris from the yard and roof this morning.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 73 – Lower Deck continued
 
Work continues on the lower deck.  In the first picture a forward section of binding strake is being glued in place held by pins. 
 

 
These structural strakes were often let down on the beam by an inch or so, but because this depth is so small at this scale I did not score the beams and merely reduced the depth of the strake by an inch.  As with many details, Young America’s exact configuration is unknown.  The binding strakes are bolted into each beam and horizontally into the waterways. Inside these strakes were margin planking – wider planks that allow the ends of forward planking to be cut into them.  I will not be installing these on the deck – to leave the ends of the lodging knees visible from above.
 
In the next picture the next section of binfding strake is being installed.  Planking on the centerline is in progress.
 
 

 
This planking is 3 ½” thick.  I made these 7” wide.  These are required as bases for the middle deck pillars.  I have not yet decided if any planking beyond the two central strakes will be installed on this deck.  The next picture shows further work near the bow.
 

 
The fore hatchway is complete including its bolts.  Although not very visible due to sanding dust, the treenails and bolts for all this work have been installed.  Next is a picture of the port side forward.  There will be no ladder ways into the hold.  These would probably have been movable and taken up after the cargo was loaded – and before the hatches were sealed for the voyage.
 

 
This gives a pretty good idea of the forward view port.  The unplanked frames will be removed below the middle deck clamp down to the lower futtock heads – when I summon the courage to cut them out.
 
The next picture shows the port side aft.
 

 
The aft view port will only extend from the top of the lower deck clamp to the underside of the middle deck clamp.  Next are two pictures showing most of the hull at its current state – i.e. today.
 

 
 
 
Once the remaining bolts and treenails and the few remaining bits of binding strake and central planking are installed, I can move on the middle deck.
 
 
 Ed

And here are the pics, after the varnish, She is starting to come together

As today is a day of rest for most ( I am included with most ) I thought I would give the "Boxing Kangaroo " ( Thanks Geoff ) a break , and clean up the paint mess on the 12 1/2 ( no matter how well  I mask somthing, (not all the time but with this boat ) Paint gets in spots that I cant figure out ) like all over the inside of the transom and Coamings . So I sanded the bright work down to the wood and re-stained . Then applied 2 coats of Varnish. It was easy and it was the perfect task for today. The first 2 photos are what I started with ( so that you can see the excess paint ) Here are the results

Hi  Omega , Thanks, She is practicaly building herself , everything so far has gone together very easy , She has been alot of fun to build
 
Hi Jay , It was quite the shin-dig last night , I dont think I will need to eat this week . Fortunatly, I learned the reduction in Half bredths from my Dad,( I was about 14 years old )  and the use of scantling's to make all the calculations for the frames and keel . I have been bitten by the lofting itself a few times . ( most recent is the 12 1/2 proto-type , the profile drawing was incorrect ) it resulted into alot of fairing , I can totally relate
 
Hi Geoff , The Boxing Kangaroo, is now her nickname in this house.( Full credit goes to you ,) I think it would be great to see other's who want to take on this build . or any of the modern AC boats.  here is a shot of Australia II tacking over Liberty . and I had to throw in the other shot as well
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi Keith , I should have mentioned in the beginning that the sheer line is cut into the Keel. ( so the top if the keel is the bottom of the deck or deck height ) there wont be any cockpit details as this is a hull only build . the tops of the frames will be cut down to match the deck height , thus giving her the sheer line once the deck is installed . if you look at the photo you can see that the frames are to tall ( I do that so there is wiggle room ) nothing at this stage of the build has been glued . 
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Hi Mark, yeah, we have the Woodall's/Good Sam Bible. We also look online when we have internet. We're just wingin' it up here and haven't been disapointed yet. That pie sure sounded good! My neighbor here in Crescent City lives in his RV and is a fisherman....yesterday he gave me about 6 filets of Black Snapper....yummm

Birth day?  Did anybody say - - birthday??  Oh, its Marks birthday - - happy birthday Mark and many more - - - - - - - without broken ribs 
Safe me some apple pie, okay?  And ice cream, vanilla please 
 
Cheers,

Hi Nenad,
Your plating really is going great!  When you first described how many plates, and how much work I expected you to take so much longer although it probably feels like it is already.
 
Thank you also for your posts about your country and what is happening.  As sad as it reads, it really is so interesting and makes it all so real for us on the other side of the planet.  I have to admit that I enjoy opening your log every time I visit Model Ship World.
 
But I had to laugh as when you wrote ...
 
 
I remember annoying my father so much when I was young that he gave me the job of "go out the back and dig HALF a hole".  It kept me busy for hours and every time I got him to inspect it he told me it was no good as it was a complete hole and I had to start again.  Maybe he was really training me to do coppering? 

Today, I actually got more time to build than I thought. I started by laying out the rest of the frames. ( for anyone that is new to scratch building , When you use a lines drawing for your plans , You have to subtract the thickness of your planking from the frame's . or your boat will have to much Beam... just throwing it out there ) I then cut them out with an X-Acto knife ( I do not use power tools when I build models, I save that for Full size builds ) I then thought to add the America's Cup logo to the Keel . I then cut out the notches in the Keel and frames, and dry fit them . Next I cut out the deck , I then dry fit all the pieces ( I still have to trim a few frames to deck height) My wife thinks she is very Sleek , and I have to agree. I am having alot of fun with this one . I am off to the Family 4th party. Here are the results

Happy birthday John and many more!  Stay safe and in good health.  Give our best to Diana.
 
Cheers,

Thank you, David and Geoff, she is a beauty
 
Best Regards,
Pete

And here is the rest of the pic's

Bob is right, book is right, my champ friend Roland is right, I opened my ears wide.
listen, and here is result



When lines of plates started to curve, there was no question about how to go forward

oh no - I have been told off -

Right then, enough of this talk Kevin! 
Your ship is beautiful, yes you read it correctly, beautiful! Just remember when you get back to it, approach it with confidence and you will achieve a wonderful Victory! And yes, the pun was intended!   
Consider this your "pep talk" for the day. 

Thank you, Nenad and Rich;
 
I'm pretty much done with the frame ends on the forecastle deck;  right now I'm trying to fit the two heads into place underneath the main rail...  Will probably fill the gap with more "ironwork"..

So it's been a long time since I've posted any kind of an update over here....
 
The weather is nice today, low humidity and a light breeze, so first thing this morning (ok.... not exactly first thing, but close to it), it was out to the picnic table with some newspaper, a couple of rattle cans of primer, and the big white beastie.
 
(I love the smell of primer in the morning.... well... maybe not)
 
I've pushed this step a little, there are still some details to add to the hull, but I can now see any flaws, nicks, scratches, gaps etc. that I missed when whe was glaringly white. Turns out... there are a few gaps... and scratches... and other areas that need a nice combination of sanding and filling. Not a big deal, I expected that.
 
Incidentally, it's Tamiya grey primer that I used. OK for the hull, but when I do the unloading gear, I'm going to have to find something in a red primer... grey topcoat over grey primer is just not going to work....
 
Andy

Today, I finally got the Hull Painted,( it took 2 days & sanding her back to wood twice) I went with a semi-gloss white . (3 coats ) I also detailed the seats and cockpit floor.I then Stained and applied 3 coats of varnish. Here are the results

The head:
 
I started building of the head with the lower cheeks: these were cut out from a piece of maple (with a little bit extra flesh)
 

 
 

 
 
bent to the correct shape and then sanded to the required dimension and shape:
 

 

 

 
After painting the cheeks with gold paint I glued on a thin black strip:
 

 
Cheeks glued in place:
 

 

 

 
 
Klaus