Piet

Installment 10.


Remade mainmast knightheads, installed woolings on foremast, installed railing on poopdeck. Remade and installed knightheads for foremast.


Mainmast with woolings.


Foremast with its knightheads and fife rails.  Here observe the belaying pin shelves that Amateur Jan suggests to
remove and use the railing cap instead. This is done a little later on.


Belaying pin rails on the quarter and poop decks. Here too Amateur Jan suggested to reduce them in length, which was done a little later on.


mainmast chainplates


Removed the forecastle pin rails and drilled pin holes in railing cap.


Modified pin rails looking aft.
 

Cheers,

Installment 8.


Rudder installed with blackened hardware.


Helmsman bulkhead being clinker planked per Amazon Dirk’s suggestion.


Close up of helmsman's painted bulkhead.


Poop deck deck beams installed and officer's quarters made. The last two will be furnished.


Officer's and passenger’s quarters roughed in.


Sides of the quarter deck and poop deck in the process of being clinker planked. Paper pattern for the counter in temporary position.


The removable counter / achterspiegel is semi completed and fists snug.

 
Cheers,


 

Installment 7.


Bird’s eye view of quarterdeck with grate, helm bar installed but not hooked up to rudder bar.  Aft quarterdeck deck framing being fitted.


Foremast shroud channel being checked.  It needed to be a little wider to accommodate the deadeyes clearing the railing.


Rudder, build up of 3 pieces of cherry, with rudder bar fitted.


Pintel and gudgeon soldering jig.


Rudder hardware ready to be blackened and installed to rudder and sternpost.


Forecastle bulkhead completed with clear plastic window glass, ready to be glued in.  


Aft forecastle railing being installed, Amazon Dirk commented it being too high; it should only be 1 voet. I like to have it at 3
voet to accommodate the planned extra 6 pounder cannon. Ladders made and installed, which were later removed, made thinner and reinstalled, railing knees installed and belaying pin shelves installed.  Amateur Jan commented that VOC ships didn’t employ railing knees or belaying pin shelves. Belaying pins go into the railing caps.  I removed the knees and shelves + drilled pinholes in the rail caps.  Jan is my other Gentlemen Seventeen ;-)
 

Cheers,

thanks Sjors, Mick, Augie and Popeye
 
and psst Augie I thought with Sjors going for the title of biggest windbag on this site he wouldn't need a compressor

Installment 6.


Mast buildup. Glued three strips of boxwood together to prevent warping of the finished mast.


Mast being shaved round in mast jig.  Final rounding and shaping will be done in a drill press with sandpaper.


Jig for gun tackle.


Aft gun tackle temporarily installed for demo purposes. 


Aft forecastle bulkhead being fitted. Fore mast is installed. Doors and windows are being made with clear plastic “glass.”


Forecastle bulkhead completed, ready to be glued in.  Yes, Amazon Dirk, I should have clinker planked it.  I didn’t think about it at the time, but I did klinker plank the helmsman’s bulkhead though!


Completed forecastle bulkhead glued in and sides planked.


Spar deck is opened up, six 12 pounder guns installed with tackle, quarter deck deck frames installed, bad hull frame extensions replaced with new ones, quarter deck grating framing installed.
 

Cheers,

I actually thought of an aquarium for the Virginia and asked at the fish shop . because it wouldn't be a standard size it would come down to around $200 he said . and that's for the smallest ship I have and without the wooden base.
 
 
yesterday I finished planking the aft deck

 
today I worked on the little structure. it has a small ridge on top made by 2x2 dowels.
 
 

when the portholes were dry enough,  they were cemented in place.   there are also the brass hand rails that needed to be installed as well.......here is a before and after shot.
 

 

 

 
the port side door corrected.
 

 

 
I had to leave this open over night.......I'm not really sure if the CA will cloud the window maker.  between you and me.....I'd rather not find out.   once I can get to the table,   I can see how things went,  and perhaps movetowards the final step of this assembly.

the gap between the side walls and the upper deck platform is only 1mm or so.   checking this out a bit further,  I find that the curvature of the deck,  in relation to the structure,  is what's causing this.  it was decided that,  rather than to tear anything up and cause additional problems,  I chose to shim up the walls and repair them later.   this is going to be minor.   cutting and bending two pieces of planking,  they were tapered at one end and then cemented to the tops of the walls.
 

 

 
when these two were dry,  they were sanded further to bring the taper down to a point.   the platform was check fitted at different points of the process,  to attain the flat fit.   during all this,  the structure was also made ready for the time when the assembly can be all put together.  the front molding was put on,  trimmed,  and touched up.
 

 
the portholes were then dry fitted in to see how they would look.
 

 

 

 
I was not happy to see this........the port side door is upside down!   in removing it,  it was damaged and had to be redone......but I made the correction
 

 

 
I used the window maker to create the windows in the portholes.
 

I don't think those bottle screws are too big, Piet, but an overall shot of the model will show it better.  Looks good, by the way!
 
John

Piet, here's a picture of our humble abode, here in St. Augustine.

I always like the pictures !
There is nothing that i now by submarines , so i don't say something……
I'm just watching and learning……
Anja was just reading about the pictures of Vlaardingen en she just said….we have to go there and take those pictures !
But then i need a passport !!!!!!!!
 

Hoi John Bluto, thanks for dropping in and your kind words, it's really appreciated.
Actually the 1:80 scale was of necessity because I could not fit a larger scale on my drafting table.  Yeah, I'm still T square and triangles, none of that convoluted digital stuff,   Stupid actually because I could have used the floor in my studio as I did for the O 19 sub.  But alas, so be it.  I really wanted to build a larger model but that may come later in life    Oh heavens, what am I saying at pushing 80 
 
Well John, for now please don't hold your breath my friend because the VOC ship is temporarily put on the semi back burner in favor for my father's O 19 sub.  But she's calling to me though and as soon as I have completed the hull section of the O 19 I'll go back to her.  Just keep an eye out.
Love you build by the way!
 
 
Adriaan, Bitburg is also pretty good but to light for me, I like a heavy bodied beer like I enjoy my w - - - - never mind     
 
Cheers, 

Hoi John Bluto, thanks for dropping in and your kind words, it's really appreciated.
Actually the 1:80 scale was of necessity because I could not fit a larger scale on my drafting table.  Yeah, I'm still T square and triangles, none of that convoluted digital stuff,   Stupid actually because I could have used the floor in my studio as I did for the O 19 sub.  But alas, so be it.  I really wanted to build a larger model but that may come later in life    Oh heavens, what am I saying at pushing 80 
 
Well John, for now please don't hold your breath my friend because the VOC ship is temporarily put on the semi back burner in favor for my father's O 19 sub.  But she's calling to me though and as soon as I have completed the hull section of the O 19 I'll go back to her.  Just keep an eye out.
Love you build by the way!
 
 
Adriaan, Bitburg is also pretty good but to light for me, I like a heavy bodied beer like I enjoy my w - - - - never mind     
 
Cheers, 

Hey Sjors, 
 
Good to hear from you and yes, I'm back again thanks to EdT and Remco bailing me out with the intricacies of Version 2.0.
 
I'm taking it a little easy because I had a lengthy dentist visit today, prep for an implant.  We had to do a sinus lift in the left upper jaw.  6 mm hole in the jaw bone, insert  bone graft material and sewing up the gum tissue.  Just a little sore.  Must wait now 6 months to heal and then we drill another hole in the jaw for the actual implant.
 
Been bust this week with needed yard work.  Spring is here but temps are still rather cool though in Palm Coast, Florida.  Good for yard work, even the Admiral is helping!  
 
Have also made a good start with making the build dock for my father's submarine and am finishing up writing the introduction.  I was hoping to start the build log this week but it'll most likely be early next week.  I have already a few pictures though 
 
I did manage to install the gammoning  to the bowsprit of the VOC ship, came out okay, I think.
 

 
 

Thanks Mark for keeping an eye on little old me.

Well, I’m all caught up to date with the rebuild of my VOC ship log.
My apologies for the screw up with post one, the introduction.  I zigged instead of zagged but the rest worked out okay.

In the past week I have tried to put things together but my two left hands in computering caused problems deciphering the intricacies of this new format.  Give an airplane to fix or fly then no prob.

Thanks to the input of two friends on the forum I managed to muddle through it.

Okay, I did manage to do some work on the ship.  I made two new catheads, 2 two holer potties or as the Dutch call then
“gemak,” and in the Malay language it’s “kakoes.”  Perhaps the Dutchies on the forum recognize the origin, “kakhuis.” 
This was a perfectly normal name for the old Dutch colonizers, the Indonesian people just adopted it and stick with it till this day.  Okay, in the English vernacular it is “shithouse.”

I’m about ready to try my hand at carving the bow lion and dress up that end of the bow. 

I also spend some time making room for the build dock for the submarine model, Hr. Ms. O 19.  I’ll be working models
together.

Okay, here are three pics and the last one is an opinion request.  
 

The head the two "kakoes." 
 

Head-on view of the bow.
 

I installed a railing on the waist bullwark and like to have an opinion.  I have seen these period ships with these railings painted to match the rest of the ship.  or esthetic reasons I think it would look pretty good that way instead of this very light piece in the middle.  My "admiral" agrees.  
 
 

Cheers,

Again thanks to all who clicked "like," I do appreciate your visits and appreciation!
 
Well, no work was done yesterday in the shipyard.  We had a very delightful visit from John txxn5 and his lovely bride Diane.  
 
However, today I did some work and will post a few pics knowing that a certain Dutchman in Schiedam likes pictures     
The very first thing was to glue the dingy hatch hinges to the side stringers of the dingy compartment.
While the glue was drying on the hinges I moved forward again to remove the small forward and aft portions of the deck at the deck torpedo launcher.  John told me to remove them so I'll do as he told me      No, he didn't tell me, I mentioned to him that I was planning on doing it and he agreed.  
So, I did some more surgery and removed the two sections, without doing any damage to the rest 
Then I got some 2 X 4 mm planks to make stringers to glue against the deck beam studs left behind from my cuts.  This'll strengthen the sides of the deck and affords a place for the new deck plates to rest on.
Slots were chiseled in the forward and aft deck bulkheads for these stringers to rest on.
 
In the meantime the glue for dingy hatch hinges had cured enough for me to attempt to glue the hatches to the hinges. I also had to cement a small brass support shelf for the port side hatch to rest on.  I used 5 minute epoxy glue for that.  So I started with the aft starboard hatch and it went very smooth.  Next was it's mate, the forward starboard hatch, that too went off like greased lightning     I must be living right today 
 
While the glue was curing I moved forward again and glued the torpedo compartment deck side stringers in place.
 
Back again to the back and started with the port side dingy hatches. Here too, everything worked as advertise, making me a happy camper 
 
So what next?  I soaked my glued up blocks of basswood overnight and tried to twist them to fit the shape of the deck sides where the engine exhaust shrouds are to be cemented.  I clamped them in my wood vice on the workbench and with my "watchmaker's" water pump pliers and a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire I secured this Rube Goldberg setup to the electrical conduit on the wall.  I hope it'll work, we'll find out tomorrow.  If it does I'll have to do the same thing with the second one.  keep our fingers crossed.
 
Well, that was it for today, it was 17:30 and my legs were getting tired, been standing in the dockyard for a good four hours.
Okay, pics below, here you go Sjors     
 

I cut small strips of file folder paper and folded them with a sharp crease in the center.  I try not to get any glue on the crease area to keep it flexible.
 

I used the same technique as the previous operation.  It worked just fine and didn't damage anything else.  The cuts were about 1mm outside the lines so now I trimmed them to the line and filed them as straight as possible. 
 

These are the 2 X 4 mm stringers to serve as supports for the deck as well as strengthening the sides of the deck.
 

Here they are ready to be glued.
 

Side stringers are glued and clamped.  I used a piece of scrap plywood to position them so the deck plates are all at the same level.
 

I attacked the torpedo side doors - - - again.  I cut the hand holds in and added the center pull bar. To do this I had to remove the paper.  That'll be replaced tomorrow and checked for fit - - - again. If they fit correctly then I'll install the hinges on the bottom.  These will again be made from file folder stock.
 

All dingy compartment hatch hinges are now glued in place.
 

This shows the hatches in open position. There is some spring in the hinges that pull them up some. I may have to find something like a piece of equipment to place on them to keep them on the deck.
 

Here I started with making the T stringers for the deck plate supports and the center hatches.
 

Here is my Rube Goldberg rig to twist the basswood blocks for the exhaust shrouds.
 
 
Cheers,    

Thanks everyone for your "like" votes, very much appreciated.
 
@ John, yes, it seems so, I keep changing my initial intend for this model and start adding things I had not planned to do.  There is something that seems to drive me in doing it, but then again, I'm retired and really feel the need to add a few extra details.
 
@ Popeye, thanks for your approval of my methods in this madness    No, not a surgeon, just an airplane doctor with very steady hands    The trick is to start scoring with an Exacto knife along a steel straightedge.  This morning I was staring at the "surgery" I did yesterday and thought I should actually continue removing more deck to the next deck frame bulkheads fore and aft.  Reason is that the center of the deck is all small hatches that rest on T beams.  This gives me the way to fasten the fixed deck pieces in the port and starboard side as well as the means for the hatches to rest on.  All I have to do is make a couple of T bars from brass.  I showed John texxn5 how I made the one for dingy "hangar."  So what are a few more hours of extra work?  
The doors are giving me a fit, hard to get them in the right shape, but they will, sooner or later.  This stubborn Dutchman doesn't give up easy.
Yes, indeed, most of this detail work was not in the original plan and now I am "struggling" with trying to add things after the fact.
Yes, Popeye, in the end it'll be a pleasure looking at the boat and showing her off 
The only official plans I have are just the lines of the boat and a few more detail drawings of the interior and the deck plan.  Remco was able to get inside the Navy Archive and sweet talked them into letting him search for the drawings and make copies.  It took him quite some time but he found the drawer with the O 19 microfiche and made the necessary copies.  They were now of course of an unknown scale but fortunately the measurements were on them in mm!  All I had to do was doing some math and I got them to my scale of 1:50 and then redraw them.  The rest was duck-soup and I could loft the frames I needed.
The rest is al from looking at photographs I have, most through Gino den Ridder and Remco.  From these pics I have to interpolate the details and guess where they are located.  I have posted pictures of the line drawing at the start of this build.  For me that was really the main thing to have.
 
Remco also bought the model building plans for the O 21 but she is not quite the same boat as the O 19, many differences, except for "close enough" details.
All in all, I am quite pleased with the way she is beginning to look.  John texxn5 also thought that the paper "steel plates" did mimic steel plates and i tried to match them to the photos as much as I can see.
Thank you Popeye for your very kind thoughts.
 
@ John texxn5, thank you for plowing through my log.  A special thanks to you and Diane for coming to visit us in Palm Coast and listening to my stories.  Gwen and I had a most delightful time and it is indeed an honor and pleasure getting to know yuns.  Hopefully Gwen and I can make a trip out your way some time soon.
 
Well, that's all for today dear friends.  Tomorrow we may find more decking removed   
 
Cheers, 

Hello friends and thanks to all for your "likes."
 
My day started great, had an early breakfast outside in our screen room on the back patio watching my koi fish frolicking in the pond and listening to the birds. Weather was just fenom      A little later the Admiral showed up to feed the birds and a couple stray cats.
Then with my first cup of morning coffee I sauntered around the yard and ended up in the garage where the build docks are.
 
I had been thinking about the two things that bothered me.
One, the lack of access to the deck torpedo doors for the hinges.
Two, whether to make hinges for the dingy "hangar" hatches or not.
 
So, I decided to try and make hinges for the hatches. I proceeded with cutting shallow slots for the hinges in the  longitudinal deck frame beams. The hinges will be made from file folder stock.  I also cut holes in the hatches for hand pulls.  I'll most likely tackle the hinges tomorrow.
 
Then I moved to the front and cut a part of the deck out over the torpedo lancher area. I was kinda procrastinating but necessity forced the issue. It is now much easier to work on the doors.  They need a lot of fitting because of the compound shape.  It's getting close to finally make and glue the hinges to the doors and frame.  Keep my fingers crossed.
The deck ahead of the deck gun has hatches in the center line of the deck for access below the deck for storage, I presume.  This will work out just fine for me, I need an opening anyhow to mount the torpedo launcher assembly.  The rest will be fake with only the outlines.
 
I also started to make the engine exhaust shroud on the sides of the rear deck structure.  I had to glue two pieces of box wood together to get enough wood to carve these things.  They will be made and installed after I'm finished with the current projects.
 
Okay, here are a few pics to show what I'm talking about.
 

Here I marked the area I needed to cutout. 
 

I laid one of the torpedo doors loosely on the ballast tank for show.
 

This shows the bottoms of the dingy storage area hatch covers. I had not yet made the handholds when this pic was taken. They will eventually be painted in gray.
 

I have laid the hatch covers loosely in.  I also decided to cut them into two pieces as shown on the photos. This may complicate matters for fit.
 

Here I am in the process of cutting the deck portion. I first started to cut through with an Exacto knife  and finished with my small saw to cut through the deck beams.
 

This shows the opened up area.
 

I temporarily placed the torpedo launcher doors in place.  Still needs a lot of fiddling to make them sit right.
 

Here is the approximate outline for the engine exhaust shroud.
 
Cheers,

Thanks everyone for your likes.
 
@ John, remakes - - - well, I guess that's the nature of this hobby, had to do some more today and most like tomorrow and - - -    About the dingy, or jol as they call it in the Netherlands, I guess it's less prone to tears and then having to throw then away unless they were issued repair kits.  My guess is that they can seat six men, small but handy.  I have no idea about inflatables on Dutch subs.
 
@ Ian, well yes, that's the plan for now, to show what this particular boat had as standard equipment, at least as much as I can.  By the way, Coca Cola is also a great paint remover    Thought you may want to know for future reference    No nasty smell, no nasty residue and easy cleanup.
 
@ Popeye, glad yo like the info.  You know, when the O 19 ran onto Ladd Reef and the crew was rescued by the USS Cod, the Cod had no room for the dingy.  Soooohhhh, they had to set it adrift.  Our guess is that some Philippine fisherman had a great find.
 
Talking about having to redo things, well today was no different.  I was adding stiffeners to the underside of the dingy hatch covers and had to redo that three times before I was happy.  I also thought to place angle pieces at the outboard edges of the dingy storage well and spend about 3 hours making them but then realized there would not be enough room to maneuver the dingy in or out.   Looking at the pics again there were none on the original boat thus I decided to leave them off.  They must have relied on the stiffness of these covers for rigidity.  I was afraid that there may not be enough support for the hatch covers.  But, it seems to work okay on the model, so I'll leave it that way.
Now I have to figure out how to install the hinges for these covers or just make them to be lifted out. 
 
My second redo was with the deck torpedo area.  Removed the paper fake steel plating on the upper side of the opening and installed new paper pieces, much better.
 
I also made the deck torpedo doors.  Another tedious project because of the compound shape of the deck structure sides.  Still not done yet, still in the shaping and fitting mode.  Then came the frightening thought, how am I going to make the hinges on the inside.  That area is inaccessible to work on with the doors closed, which must be done to put the hinges on.  I will most likely have to remove sections of the deck above that area to gain access.  
Again not thinking ahead and making some working drawings before closing things up.  Ah yes, the pleasures and foibles of scratch building.
 
Sorry no pics, I got so engrossed in working on these items that I plumb forgot.  Most definitely tomorrow.
 
Cheers to all and thanks again fro dropping in.
 

I have some time to show some more progress that was made since my last post. 
I made a bunch more turnbuckles,eye bolts and other required hardware for the standing rigging.  It was all made from copper tubing and brass wire.
I saved the brass chain from my wrecked Revell Cutty Sark and used it here for the lower bowsprit bracing.
I just want to remind you on the fact that the bowsprit is removable, even with all the hardware attached to it.  Making the hardware took some time, obviously, but I was quite satisfied with it. 
When John texxn5 and his dear bride were here yesterday to visit us, he did see the finished product and was kind enough to tell me that he liked it. Thank you John.
 
Okay, the pics kinda tell the the story, so here they are.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers, 

We are here about ten days later in the build.  I made most of the hardware for the mainmast here and installed it.
I used brass sheet stock and brass rod.  The soldering is done with soft solder.
 
I believe that I already mentioned some time ago that I build-up all my round stock for the mast, gaff, boom and bowsprit from square pieces of poplar wood, glued together to form one square dowel.  I did this to prevent warping, which is what if was afraid of when using regular round dowel material.  The process of making them round is straight forward.  I made a jig so I can shave them first to eight sided, then to 16 sided and finished it off in the drill press with sandpaper.  They are stained with maple and then sealed with Minwax poly.
 

This is the mainsail boom pivot hardware. Used brass sheet stock with brass nails to simulate lag screws. As you can see I used copper tubing for pivot pin and the bearing. 
 

Top mast attachment to main mast, includes rigging hardware.
 

Top mast detail.
 

Gaff with lift hardware.
 

The tip of the gaff with hardware.
 

Main sail boom outer end with hardware.
 
Cheers,

Thank you John for the kind words.  Yes, we had a great time yacking about ships and airplanes and Belgian beer     John and Diane are the most gracious couple and it is indeed an honor and pleasure to have met them.  What a great group of folks here on MSW!  Where else can you meet people in person you have never seen yet feel like you have known each other for a long time?  
Now, I had my cameras, yes plural, all three, handy and plum forgot to take any pics, sorry Sjors   
 
Thanks again John for coming to our humble abode and visit my shipyard, hope to make it to Houston sometime and quaff a few brews on your porch!  In the meantime carry on with your Morgan build, she's really looking great.
 
Cheers 
 
 
 

Hoi Sjors, what's wrong with GOOD belgian beer? Eh, eh? You gonna start something? Just watch it matey or I'll send Adriaan over to kick your but
John and I had a great time as well as with his lovely bride. Diane and I swapped art stories and she looked at some of my drawings and paintings, which she likes.
 
Yes, indeed, there are a few nice Dutch people and I am honored to know them
 
Cheers and stay in good health,

Again thanks to all who clicked "like," I do appreciate your visits and appreciation!
 
Well, no work was done yesterday in the shipyard.  We had a very delightful visit from John txxn5 and his lovely bride Diane.  
 
However, today I did some work and will post a few pics knowing that a certain Dutchman in Schiedam likes pictures     
The very first thing was to glue the dingy hatch hinges to the side stringers of the dingy compartment.
While the glue was drying on the hinges I moved forward again to remove the small forward and aft portions of the deck at the deck torpedo launcher.  John told me to remove them so I'll do as he told me      No, he didn't tell me, I mentioned to him that I was planning on doing it and he agreed.  
So, I did some more surgery and removed the two sections, without doing any damage to the rest 
Then I got some 2 X 4 mm planks to make stringers to glue against the deck beam studs left behind from my cuts.  This'll strengthen the sides of the deck and affords a place for the new deck plates to rest on.
Slots were chiseled in the forward and aft deck bulkheads for these stringers to rest on.
 
In the meantime the glue for dingy hatch hinges had cured enough for me to attempt to glue the hatches to the hinges. I also had to cement a small brass support shelf for the port side hatch to rest on.  I used 5 minute epoxy glue for that.  So I started with the aft starboard hatch and it went very smooth.  Next was it's mate, the forward starboard hatch, that too went off like greased lightning     I must be living right today 
 
While the glue was curing I moved forward again and glued the torpedo compartment deck side stringers in place.
 
Back again to the back and started with the port side dingy hatches. Here too, everything worked as advertise, making me a happy camper 
 
So what next?  I soaked my glued up blocks of basswood overnight and tried to twist them to fit the shape of the deck sides where the engine exhaust shrouds are to be cemented.  I clamped them in my wood vice on the workbench and with my "watchmaker's" water pump pliers and a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire I secured this Rube Goldberg setup to the electrical conduit on the wall.  I hope it'll work, we'll find out tomorrow.  If it does I'll have to do the same thing with the second one.  keep our fingers crossed.
 
Well, that was it for today, it was 17:30 and my legs were getting tired, been standing in the dockyard for a good four hours.
Okay, pics below, here you go Sjors     
 

I cut small strips of file folder paper and folded them with a sharp crease in the center.  I try not to get any glue on the crease area to keep it flexible.
 

I used the same technique as the previous operation.  It worked just fine and didn't damage anything else.  The cuts were about 1mm outside the lines so now I trimmed them to the line and filed them as straight as possible. 
 

These are the 2 X 4 mm stringers to serve as supports for the deck as well as strengthening the sides of the deck.
 

Here they are ready to be glued.
 

Side stringers are glued and clamped.  I used a piece of scrap plywood to position them so the deck plates are all at the same level.
 

I attacked the torpedo side doors - - - again.  I cut the hand holds in and added the center pull bar. To do this I had to remove the paper.  That'll be replaced tomorrow and checked for fit - - - again. If they fit correctly then I'll install the hinges on the bottom.  These will again be made from file folder stock.
 

All dingy compartment hatch hinges are now glued in place.
 

This shows the hatches in open position. There is some spring in the hinges that pull them up some. I may have to find something like a piece of equipment to place on them to keep them on the deck.
 

Here I started with making the T stringers for the deck plate supports and the center hatches.
 

Here is my Rube Goldberg rig to twist the basswood blocks for the exhaust shrouds.
 
 
Cheers,    

Again thanks to all who clicked "like," I do appreciate your visits and appreciation!
 
Well, no work was done yesterday in the shipyard.  We had a very delightful visit from John txxn5 and his lovely bride Diane.  
 
However, today I did some work and will post a few pics knowing that a certain Dutchman in Schiedam likes pictures     
The very first thing was to glue the dingy hatch hinges to the side stringers of the dingy compartment.
While the glue was drying on the hinges I moved forward again to remove the small forward and aft portions of the deck at the deck torpedo launcher.  John told me to remove them so I'll do as he told me      No, he didn't tell me, I mentioned to him that I was planning on doing it and he agreed.  
So, I did some more surgery and removed the two sections, without doing any damage to the rest 
Then I got some 2 X 4 mm planks to make stringers to glue against the deck beam studs left behind from my cuts.  This'll strengthen the sides of the deck and affords a place for the new deck plates to rest on.
Slots were chiseled in the forward and aft deck bulkheads for these stringers to rest on.
 
In the meantime the glue for dingy hatch hinges had cured enough for me to attempt to glue the hatches to the hinges. I also had to cement a small brass support shelf for the port side hatch to rest on.  I used 5 minute epoxy glue for that.  So I started with the aft starboard hatch and it went very smooth.  Next was it's mate, the forward starboard hatch, that too went off like greased lightning     I must be living right today 
 
While the glue was curing I moved forward again and glued the torpedo compartment deck side stringers in place.
 
Back again to the back and started with the port side dingy hatches. Here too, everything worked as advertise, making me a happy camper 
 
So what next?  I soaked my glued up blocks of basswood overnight and tried to twist them to fit the shape of the deck sides where the engine exhaust shrouds are to be cemented.  I clamped them in my wood vice on the workbench and with my "watchmaker's" water pump pliers and a piece of 12 gauge electrical wire I secured this Rube Goldberg setup to the electrical conduit on the wall.  I hope it'll work, we'll find out tomorrow.  If it does I'll have to do the same thing with the second one.  keep our fingers crossed.
 
Well, that was it for today, it was 17:30 and my legs were getting tired, been standing in the dockyard for a good four hours.
Okay, pics below, here you go Sjors     
 

I cut small strips of file folder paper and folded them with a sharp crease in the center.  I try not to get any glue on the crease area to keep it flexible.
 

I used the same technique as the previous operation.  It worked just fine and didn't damage anything else.  The cuts were about 1mm outside the lines so now I trimmed them to the line and filed them as straight as possible. 
 

These are the 2 X 4 mm stringers to serve as supports for the deck as well as strengthening the sides of the deck.
 

Here they are ready to be glued.
 

Side stringers are glued and clamped.  I used a piece of scrap plywood to position them so the deck plates are all at the same level.
 

I attacked the torpedo side doors - - - again.  I cut the hand holds in and added the center pull bar. To do this I had to remove the paper.  That'll be replaced tomorrow and checked for fit - - - again. If they fit correctly then I'll install the hinges on the bottom.  These will again be made from file folder stock.
 

All dingy compartment hatch hinges are now glued in place.
 

This shows the hatches in open position. There is some spring in the hinges that pull them up some. I may have to find something like a piece of equipment to place on them to keep them on the deck.
 

Here I started with making the T stringers for the deck plate supports and the center hatches.
 

Here is my Rube Goldberg rig to twist the basswood blocks for the exhaust shrouds.
 
 
Cheers,