Force9

Under Counter Plating
 
As mentioned before… The Trumpeter Titanic does not have the plating under the stern counter.  

 
There is a terrific PE brass solution provided by Mini-Brass that will produce an excellent result (as evidenced by many build logs out in the ether), but I didn’t go that route.  It seemed to me that using PE would make those plates stand out as elements not belonging to the rest of the hull.  Essentially, I worried that the brass plating with the overlapping seams might be TOO accurate.
 
I chose instead to scratch build the plating using styrene strips and sheets so that I could blend everything with the existing kit.
 
This scratch building was actually the very first thing I did on the kit after I first bought it a few years ago… I wanted to see what I could make of this area before I invested any time elsewhere.
 
There are plenty of online resources and photos to help guide my efforts. 

This view of the Olympic prior to launch gives a good sense of what is needed.  As Roger pointed out earlier – The kit is very far from reality.  The Olympic class ships do, however, look very different in their under-counter plating than what Roger showed on his model.  Specifically, these ships have “centerline plates” (Robert Read’s term) that provide strength across the theoretical midline and anchor the additional outboard strakes.  These are solid plates with no midline seams.
 
Centerline Plates
 
I marked off the innermost plate with tape and transferred the pattern to a strip of styrene.

 

This was cut and glued into position.

The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard.  I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.

Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates.  I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square.

I was careful to use the existing kit molded plates to blend into the new styrene pieces as I expanded the plating. After crafting on one side, I’d trace the plate using Tamiya tape to replicate the same piece on the other side.
  
Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates.

Joints were sanded even to blend with the kit…

Finally, I added .010 x .030 strips to represent the butt laps between strakes.  I thought this would match closer to the kit versions. Overlapping the styrene strakes (as in actual practice) seemed to me to be out of scale no matter how hard I tried to make them look like the Trumpeter versions.
 
You’ll notice two things:
 
1.     The depth of the plates/strakes varies to reflect what is shown in the historic photo.
2.     I screwed up.
 
Yup.  I got so caught up in the flow of building out the strakes and balancing them against each other and blending in with the kit plating that I neglected to include one of the strakes!  To make the correct plating pattern, I’ll likely need to undo everything I’ve done.  The spacing would need to be reset starting with the critical first centerline plate near the hole for the stern post.

(Note that I’ve also added the .010x.030 strips to the upper counter to represent that plating.)
 
At this point I’m in a holding pattern… The result isn’t terrible, and the error won’t be apparent to any but the most ardent Titanic fans.  I may try to get away with it unless it gnaws at me enough to eventually force my hand.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Under Counter Plating
 
As mentioned before… The Trumpeter Titanic does not have the plating under the stern counter.  

 
There is a terrific PE brass solution provided by Mini-Brass that will produce an excellent result (as evidenced by many build logs out in the ether), but I didn’t go that route.  It seemed to me that using PE would make those plates stand out as elements not belonging to the rest of the hull.  Essentially, I worried that the brass plating with the overlapping seams might be TOO accurate.
 
I chose instead to scratch build the plating using styrene strips and sheets so that I could blend everything with the existing kit.
 
This scratch building was actually the very first thing I did on the kit after I first bought it a few years ago… I wanted to see what I could make of this area before I invested any time elsewhere.
 
There are plenty of online resources and photos to help guide my efforts. 

This view of the Olympic prior to launch gives a good sense of what is needed.  As Roger pointed out earlier – The kit is very far from reality.  The Olympic class ships do, however, look very different in their under-counter plating than what Roger showed on his model.  Specifically, these ships have “centerline plates” (Robert Read’s term) that provide strength across the theoretical midline and anchor the additional outboard strakes.  These are solid plates with no midline seams.
 
Centerline Plates
 
I marked off the innermost plate with tape and transferred the pattern to a strip of styrene.

 

This was cut and glued into position.

The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard.  I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.

Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates.  I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square.

I was careful to use the existing kit molded plates to blend into the new styrene pieces as I expanded the plating. After crafting on one side, I’d trace the plate using Tamiya tape to replicate the same piece on the other side.
  
Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates.

Joints were sanded even to blend with the kit…

Finally, I added .010 x .030 strips to represent the butt laps between strakes.  I thought this would match closer to the kit versions. Overlapping the styrene strakes (as in actual practice) seemed to me to be out of scale no matter how hard I tried to make them look like the Trumpeter versions.
 
You’ll notice two things:
 
1.     The depth of the plates/strakes varies to reflect what is shown in the historic photo.
2.     I screwed up.
 
Yup.  I got so caught up in the flow of building out the strakes and balancing them against each other and blending in with the kit plating that I neglected to include one of the strakes!  To make the correct plating pattern, I’ll likely need to undo everything I’ve done.  The spacing would need to be reset starting with the critical first centerline plate near the hole for the stern post.

(Note that I’ve also added the .010x.030 strips to the upper counter to represent that plating.)
 
At this point I’m in a holding pattern… The result isn’t terrible, and the error won’t be apparent to any but the most ardent Titanic fans.  I may try to get away with it unless it gnaws at me enough to eventually force my hand.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Under Counter Plating
 
As mentioned before… The Trumpeter Titanic does not have the plating under the stern counter.  

 
There is a terrific PE brass solution provided by Mini-Brass that will produce an excellent result (as evidenced by many build logs out in the ether), but I didn’t go that route.  It seemed to me that using PE would make those plates stand out as elements not belonging to the rest of the hull.  Essentially, I worried that the brass plating with the overlapping seams might be TOO accurate.
 
I chose instead to scratch build the plating using styrene strips and sheets so that I could blend everything with the existing kit.
 
This scratch building was actually the very first thing I did on the kit after I first bought it a few years ago… I wanted to see what I could make of this area before I invested any time elsewhere.
 
There are plenty of online resources and photos to help guide my efforts. 

This view of the Olympic prior to launch gives a good sense of what is needed.  As Roger pointed out earlier – The kit is very far from reality.  The Olympic class ships do, however, look very different in their under-counter plating than what Roger showed on his model.  Specifically, these ships have “centerline plates” (Robert Read’s term) that provide strength across the theoretical midline and anchor the additional outboard strakes.  These are solid plates with no midline seams.
 
Centerline Plates
 
I marked off the innermost plate with tape and transferred the pattern to a strip of styrene.

 

This was cut and glued into position.

The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard.  I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.

Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates.  I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square.

I was careful to use the existing kit molded plates to blend into the new styrene pieces as I expanded the plating. After crafting on one side, I’d trace the plate using Tamiya tape to replicate the same piece on the other side.
  
Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates.

Joints were sanded even to blend with the kit…

Finally, I added .010 x .030 strips to represent the butt laps between strakes.  I thought this would match closer to the kit versions. Overlapping the styrene strakes (as in actual practice) seemed to me to be out of scale no matter how hard I tried to make them look like the Trumpeter versions.
 
You’ll notice two things:
 
1.     The depth of the plates/strakes varies to reflect what is shown in the historic photo.
2.     I screwed up.
 
Yup.  I got so caught up in the flow of building out the strakes and balancing them against each other and blending in with the kit plating that I neglected to include one of the strakes!  To make the correct plating pattern, I’ll likely need to undo everything I’ve done.  The spacing would need to be reset starting with the critical first centerline plate near the hole for the stern post.

(Note that I’ve also added the .010x.030 strips to the upper counter to represent that plating.)
 
At this point I’m in a holding pattern… The result isn’t terrible, and the error won’t be apparent to any but the most ardent Titanic fans.  I may try to get away with it unless it gnaws at me enough to eventually force my hand.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Under Counter Plating
 
As mentioned before… The Trumpeter Titanic does not have the plating under the stern counter.  

 
There is a terrific PE brass solution provided by Mini-Brass that will produce an excellent result (as evidenced by many build logs out in the ether), but I didn’t go that route.  It seemed to me that using PE would make those plates stand out as elements not belonging to the rest of the hull.  Essentially, I worried that the brass plating with the overlapping seams might be TOO accurate.
 
I chose instead to scratch build the plating using styrene strips and sheets so that I could blend everything with the existing kit.
 
This scratch building was actually the very first thing I did on the kit after I first bought it a few years ago… I wanted to see what I could make of this area before I invested any time elsewhere.
 
There are plenty of online resources and photos to help guide my efforts. 

This view of the Olympic prior to launch gives a good sense of what is needed.  As Roger pointed out earlier – The kit is very far from reality.  The Olympic class ships do, however, look very different in their under-counter plating than what Roger showed on his model.  Specifically, these ships have “centerline plates” (Robert Read’s term) that provide strength across the theoretical midline and anchor the additional outboard strakes.  These are solid plates with no midline seams.
 
Centerline Plates
 
I marked off the innermost plate with tape and transferred the pattern to a strip of styrene.

 

This was cut and glued into position.

The same piece was replicated for both port and starboard.  I then filled the midline seam with Tamiya putty so that it will disappear when primed.

Similar procedure as I worked outward for the next plates.  I would slightly overlap the styrene and cut them square.

I was careful to use the existing kit molded plates to blend into the new styrene pieces as I expanded the plating. After crafting on one side, I’d trace the plate using Tamiya tape to replicate the same piece on the other side.
  
Spaces to fill were also traced with tape and transferred to styrene strips to form the next plates.

Joints were sanded even to blend with the kit…

Finally, I added .010 x .030 strips to represent the butt laps between strakes.  I thought this would match closer to the kit versions. Overlapping the styrene strakes (as in actual practice) seemed to me to be out of scale no matter how hard I tried to make them look like the Trumpeter versions.
 
You’ll notice two things:
 
1.     The depth of the plates/strakes varies to reflect what is shown in the historic photo.
2.     I screwed up.
 
Yup.  I got so caught up in the flow of building out the strakes and balancing them against each other and blending in with the kit plating that I neglected to include one of the strakes!  To make the correct plating pattern, I’ll likely need to undo everything I’ve done.  The spacing would need to be reset starting with the critical first centerline plate near the hole for the stern post.

(Note that I’ve also added the .010x.030 strips to the upper counter to represent that plating.)
 
At this point I’m in a holding pattern… The result isn’t terrible, and the error won’t be apparent to any but the most ardent Titanic fans.  I may try to get away with it unless it gnaws at me enough to eventually force my hand.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Very nice on the small details. Just be aware, the zinc anodes on the rudder are different than originally thought. Here is a drawing.
(Drawing courtesy of Robert Read)

I had the same thoughts re the hawse pipe. I don't consider the option of buying printed parts, but as it is depicted on the kit just hurts my eye,. 
I plan to build it up with putty, and show it covered. Here is a rough mock-up using only blue-tac, but this is the way I'm going for.
I'm doing bottom plating for a while now, and move to other parts when finished with this.

Hello @Rob-Squid
 
Thank you for the kind note...  I appreciate the Titanic resources.  I did not know that the old Titanic Research &Modeling Association site had been archived.  That is a terrific repository.  I did view the Rivet Counter site a few times in the past and found plenty of treasure to mine there... 
 
Thanks also for your callout of this build log for inspiring you to deepen your engagement with this site along with the NRG.  I'm thrilled to know that folks have found value in my efforts and have kept an eye out for new updates.
 
I do have this new distraction, but I may try a few things on this project while I'm also working on the Titanic... We'll see.
 
Cheers
Evan

Hello @Rob-Squid
 
Thank you for the kind note...  I appreciate the Titanic resources.  I did not know that the old Titanic Research &Modeling Association site had been archived.  That is a terrific repository.  I did view the Rivet Counter site a few times in the past and found plenty of treasure to mine there... 
 
Thanks also for your callout of this build log for inspiring you to deepen your engagement with this site along with the NRG.  I'm thrilled to know that folks have found value in my efforts and have kept an eye out for new updates.
 
I do have this new distraction, but I may try a few things on this project while I'm also working on the Titanic... We'll see.
 
Cheers
Evan

Ahoy Marcus!
 
Thanks for reaching out (and revisiting my log)... Yes - My contention is that the data and the after battle debrief suggests that the Constitution fired double-shotted rounds during the brief action with Guerriere.  Cmdr. Martin did not seem to consider this to explain the ammunition usage.
 
All is well on my end... I will be starting up again on this project once I have finished my commitment to build the Trumpeter 1/200 Titanic for my daughter.  I think you have stumbled on that other build log already and I hope you follow along.  I don't seem to have many followers on that project, but it is about to get more interesting with some customizations.
 
I hope all is well with you and your family.  
 
Cheers!
Evan

Hello @DavidG...
 
I agree with your view on build log formatting... I don't think Facebook and other similar forums lend themselves to laying out a log.  The MSW type of environment is best since everything is laid out in one place and others can easily follow the progression and improve on my approach (and mistakes).  It allows everyone to see a cohesive narrative and get context on the WHAT, WHY, HOW questions that inform my build.
 
I also agree with your comment about the propeller shaft near the stern frame.  It is much too stubby compared to the actual ship version... However this is one of those areas where I think I'll shy away from trying to make any improvement... It seems to me that the core problem is that the hull is too thick in this area.  Rather than widen the shaft so that it can extend more into the hull, I'd need to first thin out the edge of the hull.  That is too big of a job for me to take on - with a big risk of damaging the model in an unrecoverable manner.  I'll be interested to see your result if you do make an attempt to improve the shaft...
 
Folks will notice as I go along that most of the "improvements" that I attempt will have a reasonable fall back in case I screw up.  The carving of the curved plating at the stern, for example, was minimal risk.  If I had screwed that up, I'd have come back and shaped a thin sheet of styrene to glue over the top so that I could move on.
 
I'm still pondering the risk/reward for reshaping the bow hawse hole as another example.  It might not be worth it if I have a misshaped blob on the bow if I mess it up.  And I'm not sure it is worth the effort to cut everything away and insert a 3D print replacement with all the shaping and putty that would still be needed.
 
All decisions that make ship modeling so much fun.
 
Thanks for popping in to follow along.
 
Cheers
Evan

Hello @DavidG...
 
I agree with your view on build log formatting... I don't think Facebook and other similar forums lend themselves to laying out a log.  The MSW type of environment is best since everything is laid out in one place and others can easily follow the progression and improve on my approach (and mistakes).  It allows everyone to see a cohesive narrative and get context on the WHAT, WHY, HOW questions that inform my build.
 
I also agree with your comment about the propeller shaft near the stern frame.  It is much too stubby compared to the actual ship version... However this is one of those areas where I think I'll shy away from trying to make any improvement... It seems to me that the core problem is that the hull is too thick in this area.  Rather than widen the shaft so that it can extend more into the hull, I'd need to first thin out the edge of the hull.  That is too big of a job for me to take on - with a big risk of damaging the model in an unrecoverable manner.  I'll be interested to see your result if you do make an attempt to improve the shaft...
 
Folks will notice as I go along that most of the "improvements" that I attempt will have a reasonable fall back in case I screw up.  The carving of the curved plating at the stern, for example, was minimal risk.  If I had screwed that up, I'd have come back and shaped a thin sheet of styrene to glue over the top so that I could move on.
 
I'm still pondering the risk/reward for reshaping the bow hawse hole as another example.  It might not be worth it if I have a misshaped blob on the bow if I mess it up.  And I'm not sure it is worth the effort to cut everything away and insert a 3D print replacement with all the shaping and putty that would still be needed.
 
All decisions that make ship modeling so much fun.
 
Thanks for popping in to follow along.
 
Cheers
Evan

Hello Evan,
thanks for setting up this log. As I started to work on this kit myself, I came across a lot of resources all over the internet - but it was still missing the 'traditional build log' format which I like to follow the most.
You a put a lot of research to your model, which I'm sure will result a magnificent model.
Looking to your reference picture of the stern post, the kit is pretty rough where the shaft exits the hull. Maybe some epoxy putty could help to build up the shaft, and make the tranisiton less direct - something I may try when the time comes.
best,
David

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Stern Post
 
The Trumpeter kit is lacking some detail around the stern post.  There are plenty of historic photos to guide my modifications…

Adding the curved plating detail requires gathering a few key tools:

 
 
Step 1

The curves were plotted with pencil outlines and etched with a standard hobby knife blade. 
 
Step 2
The hobby knife was also used to notch an edge into the curve to guide the next steps. 

 
Most of the shaping was done with a detail chisel (I have a set from Micro-Mark that comes in handy).  I would peel away small layers of the plastic up to the notched edge of the curve.
 
 
Step 3

Once the initial shape was roughed out, a small file was used to set the final edge and level the surface.  Medium grit flexible files were used to smooth the surface as I went along.
 
Step 4
Now I needed to reflect the same curves on the Starboard side.

I laid down some tape and traced the edge.  The tape was then transferred to a piece of card paper and cut out.  
 
Step 5

This was then positioned on the starboard side and traced with a pencil line to guide the same procedure as before…

I would occasionally refresh my carved edge with a pencil line to help track my progress:
 
Step 6

Finally, I came back with progressively finer flex files to smooth everything down and eliminate any remaining rough surfaces.
 
Step 7
I used thin Evergreen Styrene strips (.010) from my stash and added the rivets by pricking one side with the tip of a pushpin and flipping it over before gluing.  The rivets are laid out in a diagonal pattern using some pencil lines as a guide.  I fashioned some strips a bit longer than needed and cut to size before transferring them to the hull.

The rivet reinforcement and the zinc strips were all done using this method.


After the first round of primer, I’ll come back and fill/smooth to finalize the surface before painting.  That’ll be a bit further along in my build.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Hello Hubac...  Thanks for looking in on my effort here with the Titanic... Aye, it'll be interesting to make choices as I go along.  Some folks I'm sure will scratch their heads wondering why I go deep on some details, but avoid others altogether.  
 
Ahoy Chief... It does sound like quite the undertaking to construct a Titanic using 3D prints... I guess that is the future eh?  High tech modeling!
 
I appreciate the interest folks are showing... Especially considering that the Titanic is not exactly under-represented in ship modeling forums.  It can seem a tired subject, but there are always new insights to be made and new approaches to try.  I hope everyone stays with this voyage - some customizations are around the corner.
 
Cheers
Evan
 

Hello Hubac...  Thanks for looking in on my effort here with the Titanic... Aye, it'll be interesting to make choices as I go along.  Some folks I'm sure will scratch their heads wondering why I go deep on some details, but avoid others altogether.  
 
Ahoy Chief... It does sound like quite the undertaking to construct a Titanic using 3D prints... I guess that is the future eh?  High tech modeling!
 
I appreciate the interest folks are showing... Especially considering that the Titanic is not exactly under-represented in ship modeling forums.  It can seem a tired subject, but there are always new insights to be made and new approaches to try.  I hope everyone stays with this voyage - some customizations are around the corner.
 
Cheers
Evan
 

Hello Hubac...  Thanks for looking in on my effort here with the Titanic... Aye, it'll be interesting to make choices as I go along.  Some folks I'm sure will scratch their heads wondering why I go deep on some details, but avoid others altogether.  
 
Ahoy Chief... It does sound like quite the undertaking to construct a Titanic using 3D prints... I guess that is the future eh?  High tech modeling!
 
I appreciate the interest folks are showing... Especially considering that the Titanic is not exactly under-represented in ship modeling forums.  It can seem a tired subject, but there are always new insights to be made and new approaches to try.  I hope everyone stays with this voyage - some customizations are around the corner.
 
Cheers
Evan
 

I've taken on the task of getting a Titanic built as well...I'm certain that it will be no-where near what yours is!
 
I'm working with 3D prints, so there's some aspects to that which are challenging, but workable for what I'm building.
 
Intent is that it will be a slightly better than stand-off scale model that will end up in the local pond - I'm about 20% done the printing so far.  Ish.
 
I have about another 3-4 weeks of printing left to go.
 
NS
 

Drilling More Holes
 
Time to drill the remaining three thousand portholes. (Very slight exaggeration)
 
I had some concern that these might require pre-drilling some smaller centering holes to keep the bit from drifting and creating obvious misaligned ports across the side of the hull. 
 
There is a small industry around 3rd party guides to serve this need, but it seemed to me that I could fashion some workable guides on my own using stuff I already had laying around.
 
I dug out my miscellaneous assortment of small tubing and went to work making some quick centering guides.

These were whipped together by cutting some short lengths of telescoping tubes – the inner tube aligned to the appropriate porthole size and the outer tubes to sit flush with the hull:

All bound together with a drop or two of CA glue.
 

Not as elegant as what can be purchased from enterprising online hobbyists, but suitable in a pinch.

These guides were slipped over the drill bit and held in place at ninety degrees while drilling.  I didn’t need to drill all the way through the hull – only needed enough of a dimple to guide the larger bit. These worked like a charm.
 
(Maybe once or twice I lost concentration and didn’t hold the guide flush to the hull resulting in a slightly off-center hole, but easily compensated for in the final step).

For the final step, I first did a quick trigger squeeze to set the bit in the centering hole before drilling through the hull.

In truth, I don’t think I needed these centering holes except for the largest porthole sizes.  The bit size would generally match close enough in the small and medium porthole sizes that it didn’t allow for any drift.  
 
For the largest diameter I used the nearest size tubing and filed a beveled edge using a large coarse file. 

This helped to set the outer diameter tightly into the porthole and centered the innermost tube properly… 

Worked perfectly.
 
Next, I needed to attend to the missing portholes on the upper stern counter.  I again used the guidance from Mr. Boyd’s resource to find the proper spacing.  

These measurements were transferred to a length of Tamiya tape and the holes drilled through the template.

Lastly, I noticed that the size of the portholes along the upper stern were a bit undersized based on the reference photo of the Olympic under construction:

Using a larger bit, I drilled out the portholes to accommodate 1.5mm fiber optic filament.  Much improved.

All the portholes are now drilled out and good to go...
 
Up next will be cutting out various doors and hull openings for future enhancements… 
 
Cheers,
Evan