Force9

Paint!
 
Folks -
 
Apologies for the long gap between updates - I just got caught up in the flow and haven't paused to add to my log.
 
It may be hard to believe, but I've actually begun to smear some paint over some of the plastic...
 
I've got the gun deck and associated furniture mostly done with a few minor touch ups needed here and there:



Spare Anchor:

Camboose:

Capstan:


Chain Pumps:

 
I was a Floquil paint guy in the past, alas, we know how that has gone.  I'm now trying Vallejo paint and I'm becoming a big fan.
 
Thanks for looking in
Evan

Ladies and Gents...  
 
(Actually - I have not detected any Ladies following this build so we're all free to belch and scratch without fear of retribution...)
 
Thank you all for the kindness of your remarks.
 
Here is where the job stands after some time spent on the half hulls:
 






 
You'll see that I've done a fair amount of work on the underside and have the foundation in place for the gun stripe and red port sills.
 

 
I started by giving the underside a light coat of Vallejo Air Copper as a base.  I then began to randomly mix different blends of Vallejo Air Copper, Vallejo Hammered Copper, Microlux Air Roof Brown, and MicroLux Grimy Black in small batches and applied using some disposable micro brushes (Model Expo).  I would slink out to the workshop whenever I had an odd 15 or 20 minutes to spend filling in individual plates... After a week or so I had most of the two half hulls done.  A final (obligatory) coat of Vallejo Sepia Wash was then applied and - as with the decking - quickly wiped down with a clean soft cloth.  This had multiple good effects: It knocked down the shine, helped to blend all of the contrasting colors, highlighted some of the plate seams, and - most importantly - removed just enough paint to "expose" the riveting and define the edges of the plates.  I had to press down firmly when wiping it down to get an even exposure of the riveting.
 
The gun stripe was masked off a bit wider than the final dimension to allow some overlap and a cleaner line once the black is laid down.  After a base coat of Vallejo Air Interior Yellow (A near equivalent to Floquil Depot Buff), a thin layer of Vallejo Sepia wash (the old standby) was applied and lightly wiped down to leave a good patina behind.  This deepened the color enough to generally match what is seen in the Corne paintings.  Next I masked off everything except the gun port sills and airbrushed a few coats of Vallejo Air Ferrari Red.  I wanted the red to be deep and eye-catching.  None of this wimpy wannabe red... It looks blood red in the paintings and that's what will be on the model!  Still a few more detail touch ups remain, but it is almost there.
 
Here is the discarded tape used for masking just one of the half hulls!

 
I have not done much in the last week or so.  I thoroughly gunked up my very cheap airbrush and decided to invest in something more substantial.  I'm tired of constantly stripping it all down to clean after every small paint session.  Once done I can attack the black part of the hull.
 
Thanks to all for your continued interest!
Evan

Very nice work Bill... If you hustle on those boats, she can sail on the next tide!

The burton pendants, shrouds stay and preventer stay are now done on the lower main mast. The rope sizes were, of course, larger than for the mizzen, but the procedures followed were the same. This phase of the work will be completed next with the same lines on the lower foremast. This may be delayed a bit since my kids and grandkids are all arriving for an extended holiday visit.
 
Let me take this opportunity to wish all who visit this log a very happy holiday season and a healthy New Year.
 
Bob

Great figures Daniel!
 
It looks as though some of the attendees are more interested in learning the finer points of trigonometry than others... (Perhaps the master would teach that course...)
 
Excellent research as well!
 
Evan

here is the shipped anchor

Hello Wade
 
Thank you for the note!  I think you'll enjoy your Connie build - it is a terrific kit that makes for an impressive display right out of the box.
 
I would, however, suggest any modeler to consider implementing at least two modifications: Thicken the bulwarks around the gun ports (you don't have to panel the entire interior - just add styrene around the inside edges) and build your own capstan for the upper (spar) deck.  The kit provided version is pretty lousy.  You can find my approach earlier in my log - I don't think you'll find it too challenging to replicate.
 
If you want to get something into the nursery before the child turns eighteen (about the pace I'm taking!) you could also consider an "Admiralty Model" type approach.  Build the hull and skip the masts and rigging - or just show the stumps of the lower masts.  That'd knock off a year or so of effort and perhaps reduce the intimidation factor.  It would have the added benefit of being less fragile.
 
Please post a log of your progress and don't hesitate to ping me or any of the other Connie modelers with any questions/clarification.  Those of us who've gone before can at least help you avoid some of our own pitfalls!
 
Thanks again for reaching out!
 
Evan

Thank you Tim, Christian, Stuart, and Frank for your continued interest...  Thanks to everyone who clicked the LIKE button!
 
Tim - I'm not sure where a kit bash crosses over to becoming a scratch build... I'm almost certain that I've modified every kit component I've used or otherwise replaced it with something scratch built.  I really don't think I've yet used anything straight from the box.  All part of the fun!
 
Stuart - I used Plastruct rod 4.0mm and 4.8mm (#s 90862, 90863) for the wheels/trucks.  I made a simple jig using scrap styrene to keep a consistent width.  I used drill bit sizes 11/64 and 3/16 to drill holes in the styrene that I built up to the appropriate thickness.  After snipping off some narrow slices from the rod, I'd insert them into the jig and file them flush to the styrene surface. I made multiple holes in the jig surface so that as the jig was worn down with the filing I could rotate to another hole and maintain the approximate width.  I could make a dozen or so before everything was filed down too far and I had to add new holes to the jig.
 
Haven't had much shop time, but slowly making more wheels.
 
Thanks for keeping tabs
Evan

Thank you Tim, Christian, Stuart, and Frank for your continued interest...  Thanks to everyone who clicked the LIKE button!
 
Tim - I'm not sure where a kit bash crosses over to becoming a scratch build... I'm almost certain that I've modified every kit component I've used or otherwise replaced it with something scratch built.  I really don't think I've yet used anything straight from the box.  All part of the fun!
 
Stuart - I used Plastruct rod 4.0mm and 4.8mm (#s 90862, 90863) for the wheels/trucks.  I made a simple jig using scrap styrene to keep a consistent width.  I used drill bit sizes 11/64 and 3/16 to drill holes in the styrene that I built up to the appropriate thickness.  After snipping off some narrow slices from the rod, I'd insert them into the jig and file them flush to the styrene surface. I made multiple holes in the jig surface so that as the jig was worn down with the filing I could rotate to another hole and maintain the approximate width.  I could make a dozen or so before everything was filed down too far and I had to add new holes to the jig.
 
Haven't had much shop time, but slowly making more wheels.
 
Thanks for keeping tabs
Evan

Here is a link to Gunner John Lord's bag in the USS Constitution museum collection:
 
http://www.ussconstitutionmuseum.org/proddir/prod/496/11/
 
Interesting that the article suggests that the bags for common seaman were black because of waterproofing... The decorated bags were for warrant/petty officers, etc.
 
Good topic!
 
Evan

I'm not sure that is strictly true... The stated purpose of this refit is to do a complete/extensive replacement of the under body planking and copper plating.  Beyond that I don't think there is any "official" word... Certainly we'd all hope that some provision could be made to bring either the bow or stern into better alignment with her glory years.  There may be nothing definitive, but following guidance from the Hull model would be a reasonable approach - at least much better than the current configuration that is widely acknowledged to be very wrong for her 1812 appearance!
 
They may change the gun port lids to the half "buckler" type that seems to have been researched and corroborated by Ms. Desy (the official historian of the ship).
 
We can only hope...
 
Regarding research and good sources... I have discussed some sources for my build in my log... I'll copy my entry here:
 
 
 
Bill did a good job of summarizing the various decisions and friction points in understanding how the great ship was configured during the war. Ultimately however, there comes a point where some of the available information will be contradictory and the modeler will need to make choices based on personal bias and comfort level.
 
Good to see other modelers taking on the 1812 version of Connie!
 
Evan

Here is a link to Gunner John Lord's bag in the USS Constitution museum collection:
 
http://www.ussconstitutionmuseum.org/proddir/prod/496/11/
 
Interesting that the article suggests that the bags for common seaman were black because of waterproofing... The decorated bags were for warrant/petty officers, etc.
 
Good topic!
 
Evan

Thank you Tim, Christian, Stuart, and Frank for your continued interest...  Thanks to everyone who clicked the LIKE button!
 
Tim - I'm not sure where a kit bash crosses over to becoming a scratch build... I'm almost certain that I've modified every kit component I've used or otherwise replaced it with something scratch built.  I really don't think I've yet used anything straight from the box.  All part of the fun!
 
Stuart - I used Plastruct rod 4.0mm and 4.8mm (#s 90862, 90863) for the wheels/trucks.  I made a simple jig using scrap styrene to keep a consistent width.  I used drill bit sizes 11/64 and 3/16 to drill holes in the styrene that I built up to the appropriate thickness.  After snipping off some narrow slices from the rod, I'd insert them into the jig and file them flush to the styrene surface. I made multiple holes in the jig surface so that as the jig was worn down with the filing I could rotate to another hole and maintain the approximate width.  I could make a dozen or so before everything was filed down too far and I had to add new holes to the jig.
 
Haven't had much shop time, but slowly making more wheels.
 
Thanks for keeping tabs
Evan

Hello Wade
 
Thank you for the note!  I think you'll enjoy your Connie build - it is a terrific kit that makes for an impressive display right out of the box.
 
I would, however, suggest any modeler to consider implementing at least two modifications: Thicken the bulwarks around the gun ports (you don't have to panel the entire interior - just add styrene around the inside edges) and build your own capstan for the upper (spar) deck.  The kit provided version is pretty lousy.  You can find my approach earlier in my log - I don't think you'll find it too challenging to replicate.
 
If you want to get something into the nursery before the child turns eighteen (about the pace I'm taking!) you could also consider an "Admiralty Model" type approach.  Build the hull and skip the masts and rigging - or just show the stumps of the lower masts.  That'd knock off a year or so of effort and perhaps reduce the intimidation factor.  It would have the added benefit of being less fragile.
 
Please post a log of your progress and don't hesitate to ping me or any of the other Connie modelers with any questions/clarification.  Those of us who've gone before can at least help you avoid some of our own pitfalls!
 
Thanks again for reaching out!
 
Evan

The Burton pendants had another important function... They were set up first and used in conjunction with the Burton tackle to sway the lower masts in preparation for rigging the shrouds and stays.  They would steady the mast and hold the proper position/rake as the shrouds were set up... Afterwards, the pendants were utilized to tighten the shrouds.  I think I've seen a few models with the Burton Tackle still rigged to the pendants on deck.
 
Evan

Thanks Dave, Tim , Daniel, and Chris!

Tim - the "Creating a Legend" book has some sketches of the concept of the interlocking planks, but they just reflect what I tried on my gun deck. Martin says they spanned about 40 feet between each interlocking join, but the restored ship has them much shorter...

Your insight regarding the transfer of crew and guns to the great lakes is very interesting. The timing of the crew transfer may have been the spring of 1813 rather than September 1812.  I don't think the General Pike even started construction until April 1813.  I think most of the Constitution crew from the Guerriere battle stayed intact and participated in the Java win. Bainbridge apparently sent several contingents of crew to the Lakes after he returned from his cruise and the Constitution began her more extensive 1813 refit.
 
http://usscm.blogspot.com/2013/04/you-know-how-to-beat-those-fellows.html
 
I've only seen a reference to the General Pike being armed with the "1794 pattern" 24 pounders - the shorter versions similar to what was removed from Constitution in 1808. Tyrone Martin says that the old Constitution guns were generally repurposed for the gunboat fleet favored by Jefferson.

It may be that some of these shorter Constitution versions still exist... Here are some 1794 versions displayed at the entrance to the old armory in Savannah, Georgia:



These are numbered 83 and 81 and researchers believe they are part of the original batch of 90 that were delivered to the navy for use in the new frigates. It may be that these were used to bombard Tripoli in Preble's day.

They measure 105 inches in length and are marked as weighing 46-0-0 hundred weight - about 5040 lbs. The Eagle emblem is very cool... We all need to sweet talk Daniel/Dafi into creating scale PE versions for our next builds!

http://markerhunter.wordpress.com/2010/03/06/early-american-navy-24-pdr-guns/

http://www.captainsclerk.info/speaks/book07.html

http://www.napoleon-series.org/military/Warof1812/2006/Issue3/c_ussconstitutionguns.html

Good stuff!
Evan

Evan,
 
Excellent work!  I will be starting my build of this model in the next few weeks.  This will be my first model in about 20 years so I will just be building it from the kit and not putting all the extra detail in it as you have.  I do plan to take my time and make sure it is done correctly.  I do like the way you are doing the paint and plan on incorporating it into my build.  
 
This will be my first sailing ship I have ever done.  I would not have picked this model to do at all myself.  My wife is due with our first son in January and she is setting up the nursery in an old nautical theme.  I have been wanting to get back into modeling for some time and I figured adding some decoration to the nursery would be as good an excuse as any.  Originally I had wanted to do a USS Missouri for the room, but when I was looking at models with my wife looking over my shoulder and she saw the Connie, she made up my mind for me.  After reading yours and many other modelers build logs, it actually has me quite excited to get started.
 
I am especially looking forward to seeing how you do the rigging on the masts, as I believe this will be the hardest part for me as I have never done anything like that before.
 
Once again an excellent and finely detailed and correct build!  looking forward to your future posts!
 
Wade

I'm not sure that is strictly true... The stated purpose of this refit is to do a complete/extensive replacement of the under body planking and copper plating.  Beyond that I don't think there is any "official" word... Certainly we'd all hope that some provision could be made to bring either the bow or stern into better alignment with her glory years.  There may be nothing definitive, but following guidance from the Hull model would be a reasonable approach - at least much better than the current configuration that is widely acknowledged to be very wrong for her 1812 appearance!
 
They may change the gun port lids to the half "buckler" type that seems to have been researched and corroborated by Ms. Desy (the official historian of the ship).
 
We can only hope...
 
Regarding research and good sources... I have discussed some sources for my build in my log... I'll copy my entry here:
 
 
 
Bill did a good job of summarizing the various decisions and friction points in understanding how the great ship was configured during the war. Ultimately however, there comes a point where some of the available information will be contradictory and the modeler will need to make choices based on personal bias and comfort level.
 
Good to see other modelers taking on the 1812 version of Connie!
 
Evan

Here also is my entry regarding the available CD from the Naval History command.  Note the links...
 
 

I'm not sure that is strictly true... The stated purpose of this refit is to do a complete/extensive replacement of the under body planking and copper plating.  Beyond that I don't think there is any "official" word... Certainly we'd all hope that some provision could be made to bring either the bow or stern into better alignment with her glory years.  There may be nothing definitive, but following guidance from the Hull model would be a reasonable approach - at least much better than the current configuration that is widely acknowledged to be very wrong for her 1812 appearance!
 
They may change the gun port lids to the half "buckler" type that seems to have been researched and corroborated by Ms. Desy (the official historian of the ship).
 
We can only hope...
 
Regarding research and good sources... I have discussed some sources for my build in my log... I'll copy my entry here:
 
 
 
Bill did a good job of summarizing the various decisions and friction points in understanding how the great ship was configured during the war. Ultimately however, there comes a point where some of the available information will be contradictory and the modeler will need to make choices based on personal bias and comfort level.
 
Good to see other modelers taking on the 1812 version of Connie!
 
Evan

Let's build some more of the model...
 
I now come to a decision point faced by better modelers than me... Do I include the iron bolt "rivet" details on the spar deck bulwarks?
 
You can see those on the post-refit spar deck 
 

 
Looks like it was a PITA to remove them during the restoration effort:
 

 
Are they authentic to 1812?  I have no clue... It is interesting that they were put back in the recent reconstruction of the spar deck.  It may be that there is something definitive that justifies including them... In truth I don't really care.  I've decided that it would be a nice way to pay homage to the restored ship while at the same time including some interesting detail to enhance my model.
 
Unfortunately there may be no way around the tedium that adding all these rivets will entail... Model railroaders have some decals of resin rivet strips that might work in a pinch, but it looks like a very expense solution.  Modelers on larger scale ships will add thousands of dots worth of thick paint or actually insert the gazillions of pins necessary to represent the bolt heads properly... 
 
Here was the approach I took:
 

 
I used the thinnest strips of styrene in my inventory and punched in the bolt pattern using an inexpensive scribe tool purchased at the local hardware store. None of the three pin wheel tools I have had the right pattern I was after - so I did it one at a time. Amazing how sore your fingers can get after a few hundred of these... Once done, I simply flipped the strips over and affixed them to the bulwarks.  When completely dry, I came back along and trimmed the edges with a file.  All very neat.
 

 
This has the added benefit of covering over the overdone wood grain detail moulded on the bulwarks of the kit as well as some obvious injection marks.

Continuing along the theme of Old Ironsides
 
As usual, I've gone crazy with the hobby knife and peeled back a bit of the lower hull - this time to reveal the stout framing of an American Heavy Frigate.
 
I've gone ahead and used the 1875 photo as guidance and spaced my frames accordingly:
 

 

 

 

 
Russ here at MSW confirms that the 1875 photo should be accurate.  Research confirms that the keel on Old Ironsides is original as well as most of the futtocks and flooring.  This would dictate the spacing of the frames for the life of the ship - even if the contours of the upper framing changed over the years.
 
The placement of my gash is not arbitrary - it is actually symbolic.  Captain Dacres testified in his court martial after the battle that "on the larboard side of the Guerrière there were about thirty shot which had taken effect about five sheets of copper down.."  This was most likely the result of Constitution's initial broadside which Captain Hull had held back until his ship was directly alongside his opponent at half-pistol shot range.  The blast fairly rocked Guerriere and sent "washtubs" of blood pouring down her hatches according to an eyewitness.  The damage below the waterline ultimately sealed her fate.  The prize crew couldn't stem the flow and Hull ordered her blown up the next morning.
 
My representation here should give folks an idea of just how much damage the Guerriere absorbed from the outset of the fight.

Thank you Tim, Christian, Stuart, and Frank for your continued interest...  Thanks to everyone who clicked the LIKE button!
 
Tim - I'm not sure where a kit bash crosses over to becoming a scratch build... I'm almost certain that I've modified every kit component I've used or otherwise replaced it with something scratch built.  I really don't think I've yet used anything straight from the box.  All part of the fun!
 
Stuart - I used Plastruct rod 4.0mm and 4.8mm (#s 90862, 90863) for the wheels/trucks.  I made a simple jig using scrap styrene to keep a consistent width.  I used drill bit sizes 11/64 and 3/16 to drill holes in the styrene that I built up to the appropriate thickness.  After snipping off some narrow slices from the rod, I'd insert them into the jig and file them flush to the styrene surface. I made multiple holes in the jig surface so that as the jig was worn down with the filing I could rotate to another hole and maintain the approximate width.  I could make a dozen or so before everything was filed down too far and I had to add new holes to the jig.
 
Haven't had much shop time, but slowly making more wheels.
 
Thanks for keeping tabs
Evan

Hallo Dirk
 
This topic has been very interesting to me because it reminded me of a conversation I had many years ago (1997?) with a docent on board the USS Constitution.  A small group of us were discussing the rudder and I mentioned something about the emergency steering chains.  The docent corrected me and insisted that the rudder chains had nothing to do with steering.  He pointed out that they were attached to the counter with eyebolts and couldn't possibly be used to control the rudder.  He said they were used to preserve the rudder and extended under the entire counter and attached at several points so that the stress could be distributed if they suffered a hard pull and increased the chance that the chains held fast if the rudder was jarred loose.  This made sense to me and seems to be reflected in the majority of contemporary (Napoleonic period) ship models.  That was the source of my comments - I admit it may not be authoritative.
 

 
I know you have Harland as a reference.  He states: "[Rudder chains] were shackled to a stout metal strap bolted to the rudder-horn, the upper after corner of the afterpiece of the rudder, just above the waterline.  The chain was becketted loosely around the counter, to allow the rudder sufficient play, and to the forward ends were spliced rudder-pendants, which were made fast to the mizzen channels. The main purpose of the rudder chains was to secure the rudder, should it be jarred loose from going aground.  In addition, by rigging tackles on the pendants, they could, at a pinch, be used to steer."  
 
"Becketted loosely" would seem to correspond with Daniel's representation and the restored Victory in Portsmouth.
 
To add to the confusion... I've been using my own pictures of the Hull model as references for my Constitution build.  As you may already know, this model was built by the crew and presented as a gift to Captain Isaac Hull.  The model shows a slightly different arrangement:

It is likely that the crew didn't have access to any scale chain and had to use rope instead, but I wonder if the heavy served rope under the counter is accurate and the thinner rope leading up from the rudder should be chain.  The heavier line is terminated abruptly under the quarter gallery and is not led up to the mizzen channel:

I'm not sure we can settle anything either way, but it seems that modeler's will need to determine which source matches best to their own perspective and go forward with that... 
Evan

Hallo Dirk
 
This topic has been very interesting to me because it reminded me of a conversation I had many years ago (1997?) with a docent on board the USS Constitution.  A small group of us were discussing the rudder and I mentioned something about the emergency steering chains.  The docent corrected me and insisted that the rudder chains had nothing to do with steering.  He pointed out that they were attached to the counter with eyebolts and couldn't possibly be used to control the rudder.  He said they were used to preserve the rudder and extended under the entire counter and attached at several points so that the stress could be distributed if they suffered a hard pull and increased the chance that the chains held fast if the rudder was jarred loose.  This made sense to me and seems to be reflected in the majority of contemporary (Napoleonic period) ship models.  That was the source of my comments - I admit it may not be authoritative.
 

 
I know you have Harland as a reference.  He states: "[Rudder chains] were shackled to a stout metal strap bolted to the rudder-horn, the upper after corner of the afterpiece of the rudder, just above the waterline.  The chain was becketted loosely around the counter, to allow the rudder sufficient play, and to the forward ends were spliced rudder-pendants, which were made fast to the mizzen channels. The main purpose of the rudder chains was to secure the rudder, should it be jarred loose from going aground.  In addition, by rigging tackles on the pendants, they could, at a pinch, be used to steer."  
 
"Becketted loosely" would seem to correspond with Daniel's representation and the restored Victory in Portsmouth.
 
To add to the confusion... I've been using my own pictures of the Hull model as references for my Constitution build.  As you may already know, this model was built by the crew and presented as a gift to Captain Isaac Hull.  The model shows a slightly different arrangement:

It is likely that the crew didn't have access to any scale chain and had to use rope instead, but I wonder if the heavy served rope under the counter is accurate and the thinner rope leading up from the rudder should be chain.  The heavier line is terminated abruptly under the quarter gallery and is not led up to the mizzen channel:

I'm not sure we can settle anything either way, but it seems that modeler's will need to determine which source matches best to their own perspective and go forward with that... 
Evan