Force9

@Roger Pellett  Terrific insight regarding the Clinker methodology... Makes sense that the Clinker construction would get used for the underbody but not the entire hull.  Probably doesn't lend well to cutting out entryways and portholes, etc.  In/Out much better for that.  
 
We can see the Hydraulic Riveters also at work on the upper bands of the hull in old photos...

 
@Hubac's Historian Thanks for the kind remark... I dunno that this type of effort is worthwhile for anyone else, but I have fun with it.
 
BTW - I have added the joggling to my frames... Very small in scale but still visible.

I added .010 x .040 strips to the top edges in an overlap fashion to create the effect.  Should look good once they've been primed and painted.
 
Question for the group at large - any thoughts to how these looked on the actual ship?  Would these also be given anti-foul red paint?
 
Cheers
Evan

@Roger Pellett  Terrific insight regarding the Clinker methodology... Makes sense that the Clinker construction would get used for the underbody but not the entire hull.  Probably doesn't lend well to cutting out entryways and portholes, etc.  In/Out much better for that.  
 
We can see the Hydraulic Riveters also at work on the upper bands of the hull in old photos...

 
@Hubac's Historian Thanks for the kind remark... I dunno that this type of effort is worthwhile for anyone else, but I have fun with it.
 
BTW - I have added the joggling to my frames... Very small in scale but still visible.

I added .010 x .040 strips to the top edges in an overlap fashion to create the effect.  Should look good once they've been primed and painted.
 
Question for the group at large - any thoughts to how these looked on the actual ship?  Would these also be given anti-foul red paint?
 
Cheers
Evan

Exposed framing is just one of the things you do that I love so much!  The effect is dynamite on Constitution, and equally impressive here.

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Kelp,  
 
See my post # 53, previous page.  Fig #11 of the posted drawing shows clinker plating with tapered packing strip.
 
Without further study it’s just a guess but I suspect that the clinker plating and joggled frames made it easier to replace damaged individual plates in the event of a grounding.
 
Roger

Not sure whether this will be any help, but an illustration from Pursey's 'Merchant Ship Construction (1969 edition).
 
John
 

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Roger Pellett
 
Extremely interesting... I was under the impression that Titanic had the sawtooth edges incorporated into the lower frames themselves to allow for the clinker system - in the manner you'd see done with constructing a rowboat etc. Instead, your source shows these tapered wedge-like strips added into the mix as the plates are riveted...?  Would these tapered strips be affixed to the underside of the strakes before riveting?  Or would they first be affixed to the frames? 
 
My next post will clarify my interest...
 
Cheers
Evan

I decided to start a build log for this project after tinkering around a bit with the kit across the past year or so.  I’ve hesitated because I know that there are many passionate folks out there who scrutinize every aspect of the great ship and can be very strong minded about the myriad details in play.  I will make plain my intention to do justice to Titanic but will likely fall short on complete historic exactitude… Especially considering that the ground is constantly moving as scholars and enthusiasts refine our understanding of the ship’s details.
 
I need to confess up front that I am not a Titanic guy.  The great tragedy and human folly of her demise has always pushed me away from the subject… Just too sad.  Additionally, I need to confess that I have never seen the entire James Cameron movie.  I went with my wife to see it in the theater back in the day, but we left halfway through – literally right after the ship struck the iceberg.  I leaned over to my wife and whispered “spoiler alert – this doesn’t end well, and I couldn’t care less if all the spoiled and selfish main characters go down with the ship.  Let’s get outta here and beat the crowd to the good restaurant nearby”. I’ve never seen the rest of the movie.
 
That is not to say, however, that this project won’t be a labor of Love.  I am building this for my daughter.  She has been fascinated by the Titanic tragedy from a very young age.  At age six she could tell you all about Captain Smith going down with the ship and nurse Jessop and her surviving multiple sinkings, etc. She made me get up in the wee hours on the exact date/time of the 100th anniversary of her sinking to ring a bell in commemoration. We’ve even toured Margaret Brown’s home in Denver (nobody called her “Molly” in her lifetime).  She is more interested in the human stories than the ship itself but will very much appreciate this representation when it is finally completed.
 
It was always a head scratcher for me that Trumpeter started their new line of 1/200 scale ships with the USS Arizona back in 2012.  It seemed to me that Titanic would’ve made more sense.  It was the 100th anniversary of her sinking and is clearly a very popular subject as we can see with the explosion of 3rd party add-ons and doo dads that have proliferated in the marketplace to enhance the model. There is a significant cottage industry that has since formed just around this kit.  I suppose better late than never for the folks at Trumpeter.
 
The workshop out in the garage has been reorganized and made shipshape:
 

 
Hopefully you get some sense for the size of the model.  It is big.
 
I have thrown all the relevant documentation into a binder so that I can have quick access to key references.  Sliding the pages into clear sleeves also allows me to overlay notes with a grease pencil or Sharpie pen.
 


 
 
I will forego the box opening and contents review – folks can find all that in many other logs and online resources. I will however include this quick view of the Trumpeter packaging… All very neat and carefully laid out (as is the case with all their kits that I’ve got in my stash).
 

 
Most modelers will splurge and invest in either the KA Models upgrade set or the one made by Pontos.  Both have their pros and cons, but I have opted for the KA set.  I like the extensive 3D print and resin components and the etched brass is very comprehensive.  Again – I won’t lay out all the contents here… That is easily found in other logs or the KA website.
 
I do have various other add ons including several brass sheets from Woody’s Model Works.  Very nice stuff and highly recommended.  (Neil Woods is in a bit of a hiatus right now as he figures out how to deal with UK VAT requirements).
 
I’m not sure I’ll go down the LED route.  Certainly, Titanic is the perfect model for LED treatment, but it generally isn’t my thing – not sure the extra time/effort will be worthwhile.  Still pondering…
 
A note about online resources.  Ken Marschall has long been a great visualizer of the Titanic, but anyone who is taking this kit seriously will find their way to three key players:
 
Robert Read – Mr. Read has a great catalog of white papers and research material that he has created and maintained on his website Titanic CAD Plans.  He illuminates many fascinating details, resolves conflicts and controversies, and explains many of the inner workings of Titanic’s systems and gear. Terrific resource.
 
Vasilije Ristovic’ – Most Titanic aficionados will know Vasilije’s work.  His digital renderings of Titanic bring the great ship back to life and are breathtaking. His thoughtfully researched images shed light on many unique details and provide a terrific color guide for those of us trying to navigate our paint choices. He also has a very impressive 1/200 Titanic model of his own in progress.
 
Cyril Codus – Mr. Codus is a gifted digital artist who has created some outstanding full-length profiles of Titanic and her sisters. He also has very detailed overhead deck views that highlight the positioning of deck equipment and rigging.  Incredibly useful stuff. You can find samples on his website RMS Titanic Art Work.
 
For those who can stomach Facebook, there are several terrific resources utilized by the Titanic community:
 
RMS Titanic Model Research and Tech hosted by Zeno Silva and friends.  You’ll find Bob Read, Cyril, and Vasilije all contributing here.
 
Trumpeter TITANIC 1/200th model ONLY building tips and tricks hosted by Gene Davis.  This is an essential meeting place for the Titanic modeler community with extensive Guides and downloadable files to facilitate enhancement of the kit.  Gene shows remarkable patience and perseverance amongst the wide spectrum of modelers that post on his pages. (Although I’m sure that Gene’s head will explode if one more novice jumps in to ask about three bladed props versus four…)
 
RMS Titanic – 3D Illustrations by Vasilije Ristovic.  This is where Vasilije posts most of his incredible Titanic renderings (and offers images for sale).
 
Visiting the Midwest Model Shop Youtube channel is also recommended.  Ben and his charming wife Nora walk through every stage of their 1/200 Titanic build and give a terrific overview of their process along the way.  It is refreshing to see an experienced modeler identify his own mistakes and show how he goes about correcting for them along the way. Includes terrific episodes about 3rd party upgrades – in particular the brass sheets from Neil Woods.
 
Regarding more traditional resources I do have a small library of books with lots of photos and tech specs:
 

 
I have not invested in the two-volume set TITANIC – The Ship Magnificent.  I think I have other sources for most of what I would glean from those pages and the investment just seems a bit much for now.  I’ll use those funds to purchase additional upgrades instead.
 
Give me a few days and I’ll start to catch everyone up on my progress to date.
 
Cheers
Evan
 

Masked...and sprayed.
 
Now to dry it for a few days, then another layer of clear epoxy coat. 

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Roger Pellett  Not sure that would be the best explanation... The answer must be some combination of Weight, Strength, Time, or Cost.  It seems to have been a more expensive solution than the IN and Out plating, so likely weight/strength and/or speed of construction are all in play.
 
I don't think Lusitania or Mauretania went with this approach...?
 
Cheers
Evan

Then the mystery remains... Why did they bother with the clinker bottom???!!!
 
Evan

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fun with Frames
 
One of my quirks is that I try to incorporate into my ship models a view of the framing to give a sense of the underlying construction.
 
In my Old Ironsides build, for example, I have stripped away some of the outer planking to reveal the stout girth and tight spacing of her Live Oak frames.

It seemed to me that I could break up the monotony of the Titanic bottom plating by hacking out an opening and adding some exposed framing to highlight the double hull construction.  (And continue my quirky streak…)
 
The double bottom framing on the Titanic was not only a key component of the overall structure of the ship, but also served to divide up the water ballast and distribute weight across the various compartmented tanks.  
 
The frames were numbered from the middle out to the ends. So, the first frame aft of center was 1A (Aft) and the first frame forward of center was 1F (Forward).  I don’t think there was a frame zero.  I think the aftmost frame was 149A and the forwardmost was 154F.  They were spaced about three feet apart through the midsection but were spaced closer toward the ends.  It may be that “floors” is the technical term for these frames and “intercostal” is the term for the fore/aft frames that subdivide the tanks and create the cellular structure.
 
I whipped together a simple jig to help me drill holes into strips of styrene to represent the framing. This was all done by hand with a pin vise.  I could stack four strips at a time and figured I’d need to do twelve to get eight or nine good ones. 

I tried to open the hull around frame 18A which is Watertight bulkhead “J” that separates ballast tank compartment #8 Port from ballast tank compartment #9 Port.  I’ve approximated the location so don’t hold me to account.  I chose to add this feature on the port side aft section hoping to deter some folks from thinking this exposed framing is representing the gash from the iceberg.  We’ll see…
 
Before drilling, the rectangular dimension was outlined with blue masking tape.  More narrow Tamiya tape was used to define a “Drill free Zone” to help ensure that I didn’t get too close to the final outline.
 
I grabbed the power drill and went to work…
 

Once the section had been drilled out, I came back with a utility knife to eliminate the jagged edges.

Next came a heavy file to get the final smooth outlines against the blue tape.

The perimeter was then outlined with .030 x .250 strip and reinforced on the inside with scraps of whatever thick chunks of styrene I had at hand.
 
I’ve fudged a bit on the frame dimensions and the spacing. I didn’t do the math to determine the exact scale size.  The final frame size and spacing was determined by the styrene stock I had at hand. I had one strip of .020 x .250 styrene in my stash that seemed an easy fit. The .010 thin version probably scaled better, but it seemed to distort when I drilled holes into it and otherwise didn’t give much surface area for attaching to the sides. 
 

I used the same .020 x .250 strip to insert spacers between each frame to evenly separate them and help lock them in with more surface area for the cement.  .020 x .188 strip would probably have been a bit better to represent the 36” spacing between the actual frames, but I had none in my stash.
 
I included one row of the intercostal cross framing, but elected not to put all the rows in place… It would get too crowded and would be difficult to keep it all aligned as I went along.
 
Here is where things stand:

 


 

I will overlap the edges with strakes and leave some of the strake ends extended slightly beyond the outer frames.  Exposing these ends will help with the illusion that the hull strakes are all thinner than the thickness of the model molding would suggest.
 
Here is a mockup without any strakes cemented down…. This is the effect I’m trying to achieve.

Based on our recent discoveries, I’ll come back behind and use some .010 x .020 strips to add the joggling to the edges of the frames.
 
I might need to bulk up the solid center frame… This may have been a heavier frame as part of the ship’s watertight system. 
 
I won’t add the double bottom interior until after I have primed and painted the frames – I need the access.
 
More tracing, transferring, cutting, cementing this week.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Then the mystery remains... Why did they bother with the clinker bottom???!!!
 
Evan

The Bow Hawse Pipe
 
The bow of the Olympic class liners had a distinctive opening for the bow hawse pipe: 

This opening was used for the infrequent deployment of the bow center anchor that was stowed in a well on the foredeck.  Probably also handy in certain mooring and towing situations.
 
The Trumpeter kit includes a very generic roundish appendage to represent this feature.  A big miss in accuracy that is hard to reconcile.

I was a bit worried about correcting this since screwing it up would be very noticeable on the model - but leaving the inaccurate kit version in place seemed to be a worse option.  Something needed to be done.
 
There is a very attractive 3D print that Arturo Anzures has available on the Shapeways site that could be a nice solution. Unfortunately, this option requires some serious surgery on the kit that will involve quite a bit of finesse and epoxy putty to properly incorporate.  I’m a bit squeamish about going down that path.
 
If I’m willing to work with the general dimensions of the kit version (slightly wider than historical scale) I think I can fashion a simpler solution that will get me a decent result.
 
Here I go…
 
First, I notched out a section in front of the kit version using a hobby knife, micro-chisel, and a flat file. 

This creates a space to insert a small bit of styrene shaped appropriately to resemble the historic contours of the hawse pipe.  

The piece was sized to the same width as the kit version to minimize the need to carve up the plastic and to maximize the surface area for the solvent.

After getting it affixed, I went ahead and drilled out the hawse pipe opening.

I first drilled a small pilot hole, then went back again with a larger bit for the final version.
 
At this point I had the framework of the new hawse pipe in place and just needed to fill behind the new styrene with epoxy putty to establish the final contours.
 

I’m not a frequent user of Milliput, but I do appreciate having some on hand for the right moments.  The White Superfine version works best for me.

I wear disposable gloves to mix the two components together between my fingers and then roll it back and forth on some tin foil (to protect my work surface from the residue).

I used some scrap styrene to fashion a few simple shaping tools to help mold the epoxy into the final form.
 
The styrene hawse piece defines the overall shape as I add putty to back fill behind. Having a small cup of water nearby is critical… Milliput is easily smoothed and manipulated if I dip my shaping tools in water as I go along.  

The first pass does not need perfection – it just needs to represent the rough outline. I’ll come back with progressively finer sanding paper to smooth everything out.
 
Round sanding sticks are useful for the next step:

The internal hawse pipe opening is widened and smoothed out to better match against the historic references.


 
I’ll stand pat with this result until I get to the primer stage.  Like some other areas on the hull, I’ll make refinements and finalize everything once the primer helps fill and smooth out some of the rough surfaces and otherwise reveals the imperfections.
 
This turned out to be less painful than I thought it would be…!
 
Cheers,
Evan

The overall displacement theory makes little sense.  The metric that Naval Architects usually try to minimize is Tonnage.  Since vessel registers and shipping reporters describe ships as “the 10,000 ton SS Rust bucket,” those not familiar with shipping terminology assume that 10,000 tons is the vessel’s displacement which is equal to its weight.  In fact in this case, tons is a measure of the vessel’s internal volume.  The term dates way back to Henry VIII when wine was shipped in large casks called TUNS and Import duties were assessed on the number of Tuns that the vessel was carrying.  Since then, vessel’s are measured to determine their internal volume called tonnage.  This number is used to assess docking, harbor, and pilotage fees as well Canal Tolls.  The idea is to maximize the amount of cargo that can be carried while minimizing the Tonnage.
 
The clinker plating would not affect cargo carrying capacity.  Cargo was not stowed in the double bottom, and while it might have saved some weight, that would be insignificant in the overall scheme.  In the case of a grounding, it would make the ship’s bottom easier to repair.
 
Roger

@Kelp - Thanks for the clarifying diagram.  Extremely helpful.
 
@Roger Pellett - Yes... Most Titanic modelers are aware of the clinker bottom and in/out sides.  Not sure why that was done though... I saw one reference imply that using the Clinker underbody would lower the overall displacement of the Olympic class ships.  Dunno how the math works.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Strakes Layout
 
Before proceeding with any of the hull plates I had to lay out some penciled guidelines based largely on the shape of the Trumpeter hull bottom… 
 
As indicated in the previous log, I used the .010 x .250 strips to mark up the mid-section.  The bow and stern areas were laid out next based on an approximation of what the hull expansion plan showed.  Finally, the mid-section layout was connected to the bow and stern layouts with curves that narrowed to meet in the transition sections - while also mirroring the curved edge of the model.  This generally followed the principles in play on the actual ship.  The other standard that I’ll try to adhere to is having no more than two strakes dead end into any other.  You’ll see some areas that look to violate this on my initial pass, but I’ll try to mitigate that when I finalize everything prior to priming.
 
A ”bendable buddy” (my term) flexible drafting ruler came in handy to plot the transition section curves.

In the interest of full disclosure… I did mess up a bit on the entry holes for my future pedestals.  I needed to drill these out before laying down any styrene.  I initially used my drill press to do this.  I drilled using successively larger bits to get the large opening, but the last (and largest) drill bit drifted and left me with an off-center mounting hole.  Rats.  I didn’t realize it until I started laying out the keel plates.  I filled the existing holes and hand drilled the newer versions.  Lesson learned.

The Stern Hull Plates
 
Like the bow, there seemed to be an opportunity to incorporate some of the plating seen on the expansion plan into the stern area of the model.

Building out from the stern most plate already molded on the model, I penciled in some outlines to approximate what can be seen on the hull expansion drawing:

Not exact, but it’ll do for my purpose.
 
A couple days’ worth of modeling time using the same trace, cut, cement process as before left me with a reasonable result.

 

The individual plates will get defined at a later stage.
 
I’m currently working through the mid-section.  More fun on the way.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Evan,
I found this drawing of the lower hull plating in the Titanic the Ship Magnificent book,  Figure 4-10.
 
Don

@Roger Pellett
 
Extremely interesting... I was under the impression that Titanic had the sawtooth edges incorporated into the lower frames themselves to allow for the clinker system - in the manner you'd see done with constructing a rowboat etc. Instead, your source shows these tapered wedge-like strips added into the mix as the plates are riveted...?  Would these tapered strips be affixed to the underside of the strakes before riveting?  Or would they first be affixed to the frames? 
 
My next post will clarify my interest...
 
Cheers
Evan

Beautifully meticulous plate work!