michael101

Excellent tip on bow fillers.  Thank you,
 
Lon

Berto , i have found a pictures of the stand display that i made for my firs project (H.M.S Bounty)
it was long time ago but still looks not to bad for firs project  (i didnt sand the edges for giving it a old looks ..)

Very nice work Mike.  You have been given some good advice above.  When I did mine I did as Charter 33 advised you, I adjusted the central slot length to bring it in line with the top of the middle support. Any slight differences can be sanded down together with the stern extensions.   Also I fitted the stern extensions 105 and 106 before I fitted the bulkhead in place.  As David has already advised you, it is VERY important that bulkhead 18 is fitted exactly without any sideway shifts for the reasons he pointed out for you.  Keep up the good work Mike.
 
Another thing Mike,  have you thought of how you are going to display the finished model.  If you are going to drill holes in the keel to take rods, now is the time to do them. I used 3mm threaded rods and embedded a nut for each in the keel.  I also reinforced the sides by gluing  a piece of plywood on each side  where the holes were drilled in the keel.
 
Robert
 
 
 

Hello there
i just wrote a little tutorial for the bow block fillers 
you can find it here :
 

Thank you Graham!
b.t.w WOW you did a beautiful work 

Thank you Graham!
b.t.w WOW you did a beautiful work 

Thank you Graham !
Excuse me for my poor english but when you say : 
ie. sanded down level, together. Just one point to watch out for in the future
do you mean to sand the top of the supports together for fitting the deck ? 
 
and about the 443 piece ..i think they did a mistake in the plan ..because in the other right corner they calling that piece as 447
but like you say maybe other builders can explain us something else  

Hello,
Until now i didn't glue the last bulkhead because there is no reference guide / line as the other bulkhead ...(i took the straight line on the other bulkheads flash with the deck but bulkhead no.18 not has nothing...)
 
i was thinking the reference line will be to put the last bulkhead flash with the middle support 
please correct me if i am wrong in that picture its not looks flash because there is a little wood that i need to sand (is the connection of the bulkhead to the plywood )

Thank you Nick , 
and nice to see you in my build log
 

Thank you Backer  
 

Beautiful work Pete !!!
Now im working on a new system for making block filler very easy 
i hop and it will work well and if so .. i will publish a little guide in my victory build log
about the wood im using the is : pine wood, i took the advice from my best friend Matti Pilola he also a member in that forum (one of the best builders )
and like i wrote God willing and it will work then i will publish the guide
Best regards ,
Michael. 

Thank you Ian , 
so the best way is to make the block fillers first without touching the bulkheads by fairing.. 
than to install the block and after all to start fairing ... 
is the same as i thought
 
Hellk Backer , 
yes the question is about the block fillers , but from your pictures i cant see if you fair the bulkheads before or after installing the blocks fillers 
 
 

Hello friends
I'm going to make the bow fillers in the bow and also on the second bulkhead 
but what is the order of the block fillers : firs to make the filers and than to fair the bulkheads or to fair the bulkhead and than to make the block filler?
i was thinking the best way is to make the bow fillers firs for getting a symmetrical line in both sides of the keel ...
but it will be better to hear that from someone how is did it before  
best regards 
Michael.

Hello there
i just wrote a little tutorial for the bow block fillers 
you can find it here :
 

Hi Michael,
 
Great work on the bow bulkhead fillers!
Yes, the top of the last bulkhead does need to be flush with the middle support as there is a deck that sits on top. I would wait, however, until you have also fitted the stern extension pieces 105 and 106 as the whole lot can then be sorted out, ie. sanded down level, together. Just one point to watch out for in the future - the piece that sits on top of this area is shown as part 443 on plan sheet 1. I can't find this in the parts manual which skips from part 432 to 445. I think, from having a very quick look, that '443' is actually 447, the poop deck.. I'll check this again later. If any other builders have come across this they might be able to advise us.
 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Loving the work on your bow fillers, very nice
 
Nick

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

Hello friends
tomorrow i wont to work on the bow stage but i saw the the line of the second bulkhead that is going up of the keelson line also something looks a bit weird  with the line of the 
bow forward supports (40 – 42) here is a picture that i took ( dry fit )
please advice
btw the second bulkhead are good fit ! The middle gun deck is 45mm from the bottom as the plans !
 
best regards ,
Michael.
 

Thank you Ian

Thank you Berto
 

Thank you Ian

Nice technique Michael! Looking very nice.
 
Ian

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :
 


 
 
 

Nice work Michael.  You work very precise.  

UPDATE :
after thinking a lot about the block fillers 
i have to post a little guide / tips how to build that fillers but firs of all i want to Thank to Matti Pilola ! that help me a lot with thinking and approve that guide  
i saw some tutorial and some comments over the internet , there is a lot of people that making the block fillers by pieces of wood (and not made them as a one piece )
that is the best way i have found , 
the only problem with that is : that they taking the angle of the curve with a plank and marking some card with that plank and after all they cutting the piece of wood as the mark on the card...
that method NEVER be a proper because when you will take the second curve it will never be the same as the first one !!!
and if you can make the same perfect curve as the firs curve , you not need a block fillers  
 
for that i was thinking to make the same curve from above to the end i mean to cut all the pieces on the same line : and for to be more proper its better to take the deck shape ...
in my case i took the shape of the last plywood filler that is supporting the gun ports template ..
i
 now after we have all the pieces ready we will need to mark lines on the bulkhead / keel (the lines that will be between the pieces that we made before )

and now we need to measure the lines ! and note them on list :
after we have that list we need to fit the pieces inside NOW IS THE TRICK !!!  
befor i will give the tip i will explain the problem with what we want ... for example  if we have a corner of 7cm by 5 cm and the piece that we cut before is 10cm by 8cm 
the firs idea is to cut 3cm from the 10 cm to get 7cm as the side of the corner but if it was a square we was doing that without any problem !in our case that we dealing with kind of "triangle" if we will cut it like that 3cm from the side of the 10cm we will lose also from the 8cm because we will touch the corner of the "triangle"....
 
i was thinking a lot what to do...
and thank God at the end i got the idea :
you need to make a ruler 90 degrees like a corner on some plastic paper or something transparent  and mark the measurements that we took from the lines like this :
 
 
than put the 90 degrees that we made on the piece that we need to cut in the same distance from the edge of the piece all over the line than mark the lines in the piece and cut (the best way is with table saw to get  straight line !)

than cut all the pieces as the lines and start sanding them as the shape ... (i was sanding them a bit before gluing them together and also i took about 1 mm more from the sides when i was measuring .. like instead to make the corner 7 cm i mark 71mm for getting space to sanding them without mistakes ...)
 
after all  this is the result for the first sanding : 

now the next stag:
block fillers for the second bulkhead: 
i was marking the lines outside of a strip 1.5 mm to get enough space to sand without mistakes :

after cutting and sanding the second block fillers :
i glue some small pieces of 5mm between the first and the second block fillers to get the exact same space as a bulkhead and i glue the blocks in the same position as they need to be on the ship and i start to sand them , in that method after sanding the blocks together i knew how mach i need to fair the first bulkhead ! 
note : first put the second block filler before sanding and mark the lines of the first bulkhead in the front and the second bulkhead in the back of the block
when you will sand that you need to be flash with the line of the back but leave about 2-3 mm out of the line of the first bulkhead ! you will need it for the next stage!!!
 

after sanding the blocks disconnect the little pieces between them and put it to the first and the second bulkhead check if its looks ok , if you made the sanding to deep don't worry you can move a bit the block filler down on the bulkhead and you will get the less space between the bulkhead to the filler ..
 

now after all we can start fairing the bow section !
but very important !!! when you fair the first bulkhead don't fair it all the way! leave about 1mm without fairing ! in all over the bulkhead also in the sauced bulkhead fair only half way ! with that you will have a guid how to fair the angel without passing losing the shape of the bulkhead , that also will help you to fare both sides identical !!! but if you will fair the bulkhead all the way you maybe will past the line! and you will lose the shape 
here is the final result :