maaaslo

I think Danny, you will again experience the gap between the plates... i dont like to be saying things like that, as you are doing great job here.

Saif, you are making really good progress. Your ship looks really nice and neat. One thing though, these dead-eyes all have to have one hole at the bottom, two facing up.  Like here: 

I know this might sound harsh, but the ship is/was just some sort of folk art. Not worth anything appart from it makeing a nice mantle piece. That said, i would not hesitate to try to restore it myself. I know i did something like that too. My and the Admiral used to go to local car boot sale. I walked pass that one boat so many times, its been made for a kid surely as rigging is just sewing thread, the only sail is attached to two spars(one bottom one top) and dont even let me start on the planking... no curves, just angles... so i obviously didnt want it as i walked pass many times. But the admiral noticed my obsession with all things nautical and her being her good heart she got it for me. I was just like why on earth would you buy this piece of rubbish... when i saw how saddened she was with my reaction i changed tone and went on to fix it. And you know what? I actually had fun. It was a nice little project, that got me back to modeling, as i had one of those periodes when i could not be bothered to do anything.

so all in all, even it looks like crap and people will probably tell you dont bother, please do. If nothing else, for the experience. And for the fun too.

Not bad for a first timer... i wouldnt have patience for the rigging...

unless you pay by paypal, then they charge you full...

48 minutes ago, Dan Vad said:

 

As for the other one, it always makes me suspicious when I see this :

 

Sounds like an Asian pirate knock-off.

 

 

well, he sells it from norwich, which is in england. the picture shows front page. his name is Adam Walus, which does sound polish to me. so him getting it from manufacturer, it is highly likely, as the number of polish people traveling between uk-poland is great.

look, just ask him to open it on any given page and take a snap...but frankly, i would choose GPM, simply because its easier to build. Halinski has a lot more detail, parts so small you cannot see them without magnifier,.,.

szent istvan, i think i remember deciding whether to buy that or graf spee. i chose graf spee... but SI has got lovely lines. i might get it in future.

Dan, if you fancy anything else from the sortiment of GPM, maybe even halinski, let me know. i will be ordering myself stuf from poland in about a couple of weeks, will be delivered to me by a good friend who is visiting her mum in poland so to save on postage... we could combine packages to save...

and i have a GPM Bismarck, with the lasercut bulkheads and other details from gpm that i will probably not build. if you would be interested, i could probably pass it on... for the price i paid for it originally plus p&p would probably come a tad cheaper than ordering from Poland.

and here i found one for sale in Malaysia : http://www.banyakdeal.com/index.php/home-living/item/2464-gpm-edition-model-battleship-bismarck

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bismarck-1-200-Paper-models-/132210276541?hash=item1ec858b8bd:g:3YQAAOSw7GRZBjGC

although a bit pricey, still a good value, as these models do cost a lot, when out of print. also, it is genuine, not a copy. if concerned with postage, i might be able to send it to the bottom of the world... LOL

Thank you all for your kind words, pictures do not show the true face if the monster. I will have to take a few closeups, to convince you guys

On 25/05/2017 at 7:25 PM, maaaslo said:

regarding tackles for the guns, i think the blocks would have to be something around 1.5mm in this scale. i wouldn't mind working with them, but who is going to manufacture?

I found the answer: chuck passaro...

So, By the end of next week HMVS Cerverus will be finished, right?

Dan, have you decided which Bismarck you going to build? Halinski, gpm, jsc, maly modelarz? Or perhaps one of the free versions?

don't take me wrong, i am quite proud of myself, what i have achieved. i have never ever ventured into anything this complex.

i will re do those footrope supports on spars. i hate the look and its not even close to reality. i drove past Cutty Sark in Greenwich the other day and have looked at her spars, just as the were posing over the roofs... i know that that's the look i would like to achieve. i don't mind waiting for the glue to set. Gorilla glue can be pretty fast, to be honest.

regarding tackles for the guns, i think the blocks would have to be something around 1.5mm in this scale. i wouldn't mind working with them, but who is going to manufacture?

No probs.

are you bashing the kit a lot? As i dont have instructions to this ship, i have bought the hull with masts attached and spars made up. I have to finish it and will take your thread as a guide...

Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues.

i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe...

i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you.

by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue.

i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so.

my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop.

for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast.

The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better.

You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job.

Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... 

Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified.

Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva?

I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the

scale.

Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much...

I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance.

next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out.

one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one?

8 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

 Although I doubt there will be paper details this small on Bismarck - I'd guess they'd be replaced with PE.

 

  Danny

ahem

http://www.papirove-modely.cz/velkynahled/173530

this here, my friend, is a part of cockpit of the arado plane, from bismarck. and there are parts even smaller. the red "thing" next to it, is a painted tic-tac candy. there are a-a guns that are made off like 20 parts, most of them are too small to grab in your hand.

picture is a courtesy of Martanek411, who is building Bismarck, yamato, Tirpitz, scharnhorst and hood at the same time. what can i say, masochist at the least...

this lacquer is good to impregnate the printed pages with, after the print. to stabilise the ink used. just spray over using either airbrush, or you could brush it over in thin layer...

ahem, Ondras, your work is lovely, but they like this forum to be english speaking....

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 10:21 PM, Johnnymike said:

Allan

 

Yes, this is a model, the Prins Willem @100:1 scale so some things are not in exact scale. 

 

you might meant 1:100. otherwise, i don't think you have been building a boat. more like a city... just a pun...

47 minutes ago, Dan Vad said:

I'd prefer a coating that stays clear with age. Polyurethane would do that, but I don't know how it would affect other things in the build like glue adhesion.

 

 

 

it was just an example. to stabilize the print, paper modellers especially in Poland, use nitrocellulose's lacquer. i only did quick research and frankly did not read what it does or the description. the one i found you is being used for fixing up guitars. maybe they sell similar product at your side of the pond. but clear and matte, without aging. i don't know what would it be marketed under in there...

Cut the tab off and glue edge to edge...

3 minutes ago, Captain Slog said:

Looking good Dan, small tubes are tricky to handle. Another tip is to undercut the join so when the 2 sides come together there isn't a small groove but a closed joint. 

 

Cheers

Slog

Is that ink or laser printing? You can stabilise the print using either hairspray or 

http://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/clear-satin-nitrocellulose-guitar-paint-lacquer-aerosol-400ml/?utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_source=bc&gclid=Cj0KEQjw9YTJBRD0vKClruOsuOwBEiQAGkQjP4cYfBrgkOQWTuieve3tFV5h_drl3leh0JehAJo0YvQaAlBQ8P8HAQ

(just an example)

Also, and i kid you not, you could literally lick the part you want to roll and then roll it. By wetting the paper, you give it a lot better  roll. Also i dont know if you noticed, but if you wet the paper, you could also peel a layer of, thus making it thinner and easily rollable.

11 hours ago, Dan Vad said:

 

Is there a video of the technique? Or some more information perhaps.

 

  Danny

my apologies, i should really correct myself.

these engraving tools are not being used for cutting out small circular parts, they rather use them to make rivets. small rivets with rounded head. you could use that to enhance your casemates and other parts of the ship. for cutting out small circular parts the use technique of placing just a tip of scalpel (x-acto blade) and going around the diameter of the part. like stabbing the paper. in the end you end up semi-circular cut-out of rather ruff edge, but since the parts are mainly small, you cannot see the difference. i just realised that my vocabulary is still not good enough, i sound like a foreigner...

also, paper modellers do not use any kind of markers to touch up edges. rather try to use semi-dry paintbrush dipped in acrylic or other paint of your choice. just like dry brushing. marker tends to change the colour after some time. i had some level of success using just colour pencils. paper modeling is rather cheap, but to get to the result Doris or firdajan shows, it takes a loooong time... i have made a few hulls of hms Cleopatra from shipyard ( i think 4 in total) and three of them flew to the bin. the last one is done to such level i am happy with it. i had to put it aside as life got in a way, but am contemplating on the idea of resurrecting it. if you need more help or info, i am happy to help. firdajan might be willing too. on our papermodelers.sk forum, we have a thread where the basic tools and techniques are described. if there would be demand, i could try to translate.

Couple of points:

did you check the dimensions of printout of the model against the file you printed from? Some printers do change dimensions just by a fraction, enough to ruin your work...(learned that a long time ago)

you heard of tabs? Lot easier to glue larger portions to the deck than creating a thick base on the deck- risk of warping the deck as you are using moist glue (paper+moisture=disaster).

you mentioned yamato, bismarck... as a second pper model, i would aim slightly lower... perhaps these would be a good way of learning the skills needed to build yamato... http://digitalnavy.com/downloads.html

paper modelers do glue their parts on thicker card. This allows them to stiffen the parts, especially the structurally important parts like formers and decks. Use white glue, on the card(not on the part printout) and let it dry on flat surface under a lot of weight.

small parts and fittings can be soaked in superglue. this way you can avoid paper from sepparating itself into layers.

for cutting out small diameter circles, guys in our slovak forum came with ingenious trick- they use jewelers engraving tools to do so http://www.cooksongold.com/Jewellery-Tools/Swiss-Set-Of-23-Grain-Tools-Plus---Handle-prcode-999-2355

ideal to cut out those tiny rivet heads.

also get a compass cutter -

very handy when you need to cut a perfect circle.

dear Alexey

by no means i wanted replacement parts for free. oh no. i do not need them as i have altered the screw for a slightly larger one, like those used to fit computer hdds. now the attachment being used holds secure.

regarding the motor, i have taken a short video. please apologise shaky hands. i had to work camera and controller unit at the same time.

as you can see, no load. i use the same adapter you posted. machine did only work for less than one hour in total during its life. sound does not bother me, as i normally listen to quite a noisy music (industrial noise some call it). it runs relatively smooth, taking into consideration how much the screws are tensioned to hold it together. i would probably have used different pinions collars as i have mentioned in my earlier post as these are rather flimsy and do get thread destroyed quite soon.

IMG_6443.MOV

i would also have a suggestion for a tool to be offered. same as the tool for holding the deadeyes but with two pins forming letter V, for accurately setting the bottom two holes on deadeyes. i know you can use crocodile clip, but i would very much like to avoid marking seized deadeye with marks from the clip.

p.s. i just realised how big the video is (213mb) im sorry for that.