maaaslo

id like to come back to Danny's comment regarding foam. although you cannot see a single ship built or finished by my hands, I have completed a handful of hulls to a very good finish. thanks to construction foam. you need to use one that does not create large bubbles in the process of curing. after curing the whole thing looks like a log of foam. then I take out a trusty carpet knife and carve off roughly all excess. I finish with sanding it smooth using sound paper grain 180-240. if I want to be very fancy, I would use plaster, or wood filler to make a nice smooth surface for the first skins to go to.

process creates a solid surface that is ready to work with, does not push in (this can be very annoying especially when skinning large hulls, like Bismarck or Hood, Yamato and others) and most importantly, gives it a needed rigidity. 

this method been used excessively on Czech paper model forums where I found it and learned it. it has been used by Martanek if I am not mistaken and Doris did contemplate on the idea (again, if not mistaken).

nowadays, it has been mostly abandoned, as it violates the rules of paper modelers cups and championships. something about using paper and minimum of non-paper materials. but if you build for your pleasure, why not?

Did i not say to you, its going to take you around 6months? After the motorbike, get your hands on one of the Shipyard models. Id recomend Santa Leocadia. Shipyard does edition called SuperPlans. You get your formers and majority of decor all laser cut and engraved. But it also leaves plenty of room for scratch. As you dont get all these parts preprinted, you have to do them yourself. 

It would look very nice. I am getting courage to start mine...

and also, i cannot wait for someone to beat Doris’s work...

you are off to a great start. with the kind of preparations you showing us here, it should be a breeze for you. I shall be watching with great interest

Just out of curiosity, how much postage to Cali? More specifically Gilroy...

Now, people who have had questions, drop them again. There is a possibility you will get answers.

Montañes, great work.

Besides, everyone knows how to use Google translator.

It seems Montañes is not replying to our questions, simply because he does not understand. 

I understand, that english is main, if not the only language, this forum should be written in. But we all are loosing on the language barrier. I propose a split posts: part english, part native language of the builder. That of course only for those who dont speak, read or understand english.

Parece que Montañes no está respondiendo a nuestras preguntas, simplemente porque no entiende.

See, i told you, you would be done soon...

job well done.

Nice progress Danny.

where are you going to get the Hood from? You have some place in mind already?

On ‎28‎/‎02‎/‎2018 at 7:57 AM, wefalck said:

It seems to be all a lot of effort for a make-shift tool, when you can buy a small wood-lathe (such as the PROXXON DB250), which is much more precise and versatile, for around 200€ new and perhaps less used.

i bought mine used for £53 on ebay. you just have to search and wait. it took about 2 months to find a good deal.

i buy most of my tools broken, then fix them up. parts are mostly available from dealers... ive bought thicknesser dh40 for £54 with burned out motor. parts did cost me £112. still cheaper than most used on ebay.

mp400 bench router for £52, motor burned out. parts £26. bargain...

On 28/01/2018 at 10:54 PM, Dan Vadas said:

... Pav, if you read this and can still add some to your next order from them it would be greatly appreciated .

 

  Danny

I havent placed any orders recently. Waiting for something new from Shipyard... but can order something small and add yours to it. Just let me know what and how much.

11 hours ago, Tim Curtis said:

Pav,

My bulwark is about 12mm (about 2' at 1:50). I simply followed the plans here, but no idea if this is correct. 

Tim

Well, mine was only 6mm. Had to build them up. I used spare planking and got it up to roughly 10mm. Its out of scale anyways, but at least now it doesnt look out of place.

i have an idea...

instead of tying the ratlines to each shroud separately, could it perhaps be done differently? use needle to poke your ratline through each shroud at the levels needed. for that, the ratline tool would be good. as you can tension your shrouds and you have guide on the sides for the spacing of the ratlines. then fix the spacing of the shrouds verticaly. when happy, soak with diluted glue. let dry. when dry, imitate clove hitch.

could that be done?

besides, i have a feeling that you could fit both sides of shrouds on at the same time. and the waste of ratline line would be down significantly.

Regarding the glue, in here, UK, there is Gorilla glue available, that i have really good experience with. It does dry with a slight yellow tint, but nit visible.

Hmmm... shall we start a project?

i wonder if this would work better, if there was a way of attaching part of the mast to the jig, so you could have exact length of he line used for the shrouds. there could be some sort of attachment allowing you to temporarily tie the deadeyes with correct spacing. like a dummy deck with dummy channels. but that would deny the whole point of doing it. as you would practically do the job twice. easier to do it on the ship. but the manipulation would be easier on the dummy deck...

nah, ignore me, just thinking out loud...

Thats great, very helpfull. Thank you.

would you mind trying to measure bulwark between the deck and rail? I suspect i have to build up mine...

Could i ask for a favor? I would love to do coppering on my kit, but my version does not show the correct lines in plans. Could you take a picture showing the line so i could start on coopering? I will need to hide planking errors, as walnut is too revealing...

wow, shes a beauty...

Danny, those guns look realy good. It make me not regretting selling the Bismarck to you. I would have sodomised her too much.

On 17/12/2017 at 12:56 PM, amateur said:

Sorry, you're right ofcourse. Got them mixed up.

(only thing I can't remember (and not check as it was before the crash of MSW1): Martanek had a fairly extensive buildlog here: was it the Japanese Fuso of the Italian Roma?) 

 

Jan

It was Fuso. I think Doris built Roma, but never posted the log anywhere. That was before she was active on forums.

On 15/12/2017 at 5:35 PM, amateur said:

It is startting to remind me of Martanek's buid of the Fuso.

A comparable ship (Italian) from the same period. He did it without PE, and did wonders with "just" copper wire and paper.

 

But the priciple was the same: each time we were thinking it couldn't get smaller and/or more crowded, more details were added. I like these models a lot.

 

Jan

Ahem, Jan... Fuso is one of the japanese battleships. More ine here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japanese_battleship_Fusō

23 hours ago, Dan Vadas said:

I've seen Martanek's Fuso, and he's also building (built?) Bismarck, Yamato, Scharnhorst, Tirpitz and Hood simultaneously. That guy's from another planet - unbelievable detail . He hasn't posted any updates on his build log in Papermodellers for quite a while now, I wonder why?

 

  Danny

21 hours ago, CDW said:

Martanek is a unicorn.

aaaaaand

1. is correct. Martanek's nick-name means "Little Martian".

so no, Martanek is no unicorn...

he once pushed his modeling different way. he tried to build Tirpitz, in scale 1:100. picture here: http://www.papirove-modely.cz/phpsource/full-image.php?showfoto=51211

if he ever achieved finishing lines, i have no idea.

Dan, as i mentioned to you before, i can get the halinski's Hood for you. yamato is unfortunately sold out, but i could keep my eyes peeled, if you want me to...

Aaaaand, as i just stumbled over GPM page, they have Yamato there... it is a kit from 2004, so dont know if the one you looking for...

https://sklep.gpm.pl/modele-kartonowe/okrety/1/200/yamato-1-2/2004