Elijah

Hi Greg.... Referring to posting #10 above- that photo shows the clamping of the single 1/2" wide strip I added to the bottom of the assembly which was necessary for me to get the complete width BEFORE adding the false keel pieces.
In other words, the false keel has not yet been added.
But....yes I did use a straight edge AND "C clamps" in that glue-up.
 
Welcome Al Jesse and Mark.

Just beware of the pirated plans...  Model Expo will sell their plans.

Darrell.... All I can say is that I have many friends who have given me sets of plans after they have finished their build and no longer need them.
I did find a site with plan sheets for the Connie, but found them to be considerably inferior for my taste.
Just do a GOOGLE search on "free plans for USS Constitution"..... actually costs $2.

Dave, Once again I am pulling up a chair to watch with amazement of the building of the Connie.
 
Al

Dave,
 
Would you mind sharing with me the source of your plans for your this exciting build? Are they available for purchase to others with scratch built Constitution fever?

Clamps of every size and shape is the bread and butter of every woodworker....right?
 
The width of the lumber used to create the three main keel parts was about 1/4" too narrow for the pattern. So it is necessary to add a strip to the bottom edge of the assembly.
Not bad actually, as the solid continuous strip strengthens the joint between the three large parts.
Once cured, I will be able to trace out the bottom line and cut the full assembly to it's final shape.
 

One more quick tip....
Just for those friends just getting in to the hobby.
I find it really helpful to use this little digital timer to make sure I allow my glue-up's to dry properly before handling them.
It's so easy to lose track of time, or become impatient and grab an assembly before the glue is fully cured.

Seen here, the three main keel parts have been placed on my table saw top with two heavy tool boxes securing the joints while the joints are curing for an hour.

The timer will alarm after the set time, as a reminder that I can begin handling the assembly.
 

 

Hi Mike - Thanks for dropping in.
Yep.... masts and rigging for sure.
Yep.... She's gonna be a big ol girl for sure.
Thankfully, I will not have to worry about finding a place to display her in my house.

Dave,I am pumped to follow along with your build. I can't wait to see the details you can add at that scale. And I am very happy to be of help as you proceed. Of course, I am two years into my build so some of the procedures I used in the beginning are slipping into the fog...

First Progress Report....

Great to be making sawdust again after finishing up the Sovereign of The Seas build.
Here's a little tip for scratch builders.... kit modelers seldom have to do this....
Cutting out parts on the band saw:
Rather than try to trace the shape of your parts onto a piece of lumber, it is much more accurate to glue the plan drawing directly onto the surface of your lumber and make your cuts after the glue has set for about 30 minutes.
This allows you to optimize the layout and reduce the material waste.
Also, the issue of tracing a part actually increases the size of the part for obvious reasons.
 
Seen here, I make a rough tracing of the part simply to define the area I want to spread the white glue.
Then apply white glue to the marked area and smooth out with your finger.
Then apply the drawing and smooth out with your finger.
Let it set up for about 30 minutes...........
 

 
Ready to make some sawdust!

Are you adding masts and rigging?  That will make for a really tall model at that size 

SCALE....
If, like me, you don't have a real perspective in terms of the difference between scale sizes. here's a little visual you will appreciate.
This is what made me say "Holy She It"! when I first saw the difference in the size of this bulkhead part.
 

 
Now, as the saying goes  "You get the picture".
 

After a rough second half of 2016, I was finally able to get back into the shipyard.  Not anything major, but it felt REALLY good to get any kind of work done on the Confed.
 
    I finished off the details and etching on the Starboard side of the bow, filled out the bow itself, added the seats of ease and secured the Bowsprit. 
 

 
After a couple of failed attempts at constructing the seats of ease using small pieces of the 1/32", I decided to cut off a solid square block from on of the thicker sheets and just drill it out.  This turned out to be WAY easier to sand and fit.
 

 
The bowsprit went in pretty easily.  I've still got a little work to do tightening up the knightheads against the deck of the bow.
 

 
 

Thanks for stopping in Lawrence, I should have something next week.

Thanks so much Dave. Once stove is done I need to build a windlass, which will be a first for me. I think I am looking forward to this  

Very nice, Don! It's up to your usual standard of excellence.

Good Morning Mike, Thanks for stopping in. The Trajta is a fine looking boat and kit, I love the bow on her. I don't blame you for wanting to pull her out. You will enjoy building her and will end up with a great model. I am just finishing up the ships stove, almost done "accessorising" it and may have some pictures later.  

Don - everytime I come to your log I do so with some intrepidation . All your pics - they're really making me want to pull out Trajta and get started

Elijah, good to hear from you and Thanks

Robin, Thanks for that

Hello Darrell, good of you to stop in and Thanks for your compliment.

I decided to add the seat blocks as separate parts that can be removed to facilitate painting in the bridge area. After building them up I added indexing blocks on the deck for their locations once painting is completed. The starboard seat structure is also the battery box, hence the vent holes. I will add the 2" thick seat cushions later on down the road.
 
I then reinforced the top horizontal surface of the bridge for the dashboard to align with. Notches were cut in the side wall braces to allow fitting of the dashboard against the side walls. The dash is indexed in and press fits into place. I located the centers of all the instruments and then clear coated the mahogany dash. I will turn the instrument bezels later using aluminum.
 

 
I then cut the edges of 1/8" wood stock to form the tracks for the sliding hatch door. Originally I thought this hinged, but after studying the photos I realized I was wrong and that it was a sliding door. Once finished up the top and bottom rails were glued in place while the vertical stop is pinned to be removed for door to be put in place. I added the handle just for testing and can be removed to paint the door.
 

 
Next I worked back and forth adding coaming and covers for the access panels and built up the framing for the the engine compartment that is hinged on the port side. Both the front and rear are open for air flow. The bracing was needed to carry the weight of people walking on them. All the work deck surfaces were coated with a non skid material/paint.
 
 
 
Here are a couple of overall views.
 

 

 
Next I will finish up the top hinged sliding door for the hatch that indexes with the sliding door. The slide rails are mahogany. I will need to find a source for small piano hinge for the hatch door. I assume that the first section lifts up and the second section slides back to open while maintaining a water resistant seal. Here is a picture of it showing the piano hinge.
 

 
Merry Christmas to all!

I added the cabin roof once dry and set then moved onto the bridge structure which required some edge mating to have both a clean exterior and interior. The challenge was matching the curves and bends.
 

 

 
While waiting for glue to set on the bridge walls, I added inside curves to the work deck corners. I also spent time studying photographs and realized that I needed to narrow the hatchway door opening for the sliding door to work and that the two side access panels were too long and wide and reworked them as needed.
 

 
Here is an inside view of the bridge work showing the inside clearance area at the top for the dashboard with gauges to come.
 

 
Next to add the coaming, seats and compartment covers.
 

Just catching up with what you're up to, Ken - she looks really first class.
 
John

Kurt, thanks I knew they must have had a name. I will be adding more to the other access panels as well.