Ryland Craze

Greetings all!
 
I've had a lifelong interest in the sea, ships and maritime history, and building some sort of a ship model has been in the back of my brain for a decade or more. Late last summer I was given an old and battered model of a full-rigged ship, perhaps from the 1960's or so, and repairing her finally gave me the spark to make my first proper foray into modeling. 
 
While looking for a beginner friendly model I originally decided on Amati's Lady Nelson, but on some level I was bothered by it not being based on a real ship. Fortunately I kept browsing and eventually stumbled on Vanguard Models' Sherbourne, which seemed perfect. 
 
The kit arrived a bit over a month ago now, but I needed to order some basic tools, glues and such to get started. I still need to decide on an airbrush and paints, but that can wait until later, as it is going to continue to be too cold to paint outside for a few months.
 

 
I've taken the time to study the manual - which is very detailed, and various build logs on this forum, not only of the Sherbourne, but also other ships of the time period. If this build goes well and modeling feels like a hobby for me, I'd like to advance on to a bigger kit, maybe Vanguard's HMS Sphinx. I'm also toying with the idea of eventually building PoF models of some of the wrecks that I've been diving in the Baltic Sea. Maybe similar to this model of the Swedish ship Svärdet and the wreck models at the Vasa museum. 
 
  
 
I look forward to starting the build process soon and returning with my first updates!

The false deck snapped in nicely after I had dealt with the problem spots with a file. It just took me a very long time to find all of them, as I didn't want to engage the snapping mechanism until I was completely sure that it was going to be final. 
 
I softened the stern counter a bit over a kettle spout before gluing it on. I also placed some fabric pads underneath the clamps to spread pressure more evenly. Then I filed the counter flush so that I could fit the stern transom. I think I made a little mistake here, it would have been better for the counter to overlap the transom and not the other way around. Now there isn't that much of a curve on the inside where the transom and counter meet. I don't think that it is very noticeable and hopefully will be a very minor flaw in the completed build. 

I was going to continue this project later this week with sanding and a couple of the subsequent steps, but I became annoyed with my transom error and decided to fix it. First I debonded the inner transom with isopropyl alcohol. Then I cut a three millimeter wide strip of pearwood and glued it to the counter to act as a replacement for the bit that I had filed off. Finally I re-glued the transom in place and pulled the counter against it with a padded zip tie. 
 
I'm pleased with the result, it definitely looks better now.

I had a good laugh (at myself) seeing your remark about this.  It was a couple of days after discovery the warp in my hull. That's what I should have done (do it slowly and properly).
Your build looks great btw; will be following it.
Nick

bought this a couple of weeks ago - looks like they have modelled her as she now appears in the museum- there are options to alter her depending on which era you want to depict though that could be opening another can of worms!!!!
 
Keith

I thought I share a build I did as a quick GB for another site main thing was using some AM decals out the collection other than that she is OOB guys.The whole plane was covered in Alclad Light Sheen for metal surfaces it seems to work well.I did have a couple of snafus on the decals one the prop and the other was fixed with paint.I was going to Tamyia black panel wash the plane but the yellow just said "No" to me just thinking to stark.Well I hope it somewhat measures up looks good enough to hit the cabinet the last P-51D went to someone else's house it was that or the trash can!!

I rarely visit the gallery section. While it can be inspirational I learn a lot more from the build logs. Can't say I'm a fan of videos in either place.

Very nice!  Looking forward to seeing Lobster Smack.

You are correct that battens are usually inside pockets. It's a kit simplification. Nice job, Scott. She looks fine.

Thanks for all the good ideas and suggestions!  Not sure I'll paint these little chainplates, but your info is good to know.  At any rate, won't be working on the model for a bit... making a quick trip to Florida to see some friends  (but I'll be back in a week!)

Oh yes, plenty of PLA+,  photo of the partial bridge attached.....

Ten days ago I started this model with little more than an original design drawing and some pictures of other models. The hull (overall length 33 cm) is ready for painting now. As you can see most of the untidy 'loose ends' have been cured and I made some progress in planning what the model will look once it is finished. I never make models of actual ships, I just show the type and that seems to be a lucky decision here, because of all the models I saw I can only say that none of them is similar to the others. That gives a lot of freedom, which is exactly how I like it. The stern I (temporarily) added is just a first stage one. I will find out how to make it acceptable. The lining of the hull planks look better in reality than in the grazing light available when I made the pictures.
Choices have been made. I chose for a front bulkhead instead of hull planking up to the stem post. The bowsprit will not rest on top of the stem post, but beside it. The panels for the inside of the bulwarks have already been painted red and will be glued in as soon as the decks are painted. I will have to make a stand now, so I can draw the waterline, after which the usual painting of the outside will be done. A lot of time will pass while the paint is drying, which gives me the opportunity to make all sorts of details for both the inside and the outside of the model.
I'll keep you posted.
 

The other deckhouse.

Peter, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. 

Bob  M.

Welcome aboard!

Thank you, Phil

Welcome!

Moin Chris,
 
yes, small village in Schleswig-Holstein, i live between Hamburg and Luebeck. Just one hour to north sea or a half to baltic sea if i want smell salty air. 
 
have a great evening

Moin, Peter!
 
From your description it sounds like you are living in Schleswig-Holstein somewhere? I was an exchange student in Aurich (Ostfriesland), but I was also able to visit both Kiel and Lübeck -- good memories!
 
Tschüß!

Sure, here's a couple:
 

 

Chris if not to much hassle post some pics interested in the chipping these planes were not a Zero with tons of it those card guys are usually quite realistic.I plan to paint the whole plane black,silver then the green and chip from there.

I have the card version from Halinski -- a great print with very realistic chipping. It's depicted in the exact same livery as this kit's box art. The Shiden-Kai was a very capable and menacing-looking aircraft.

I started this evening one of my favorites of the Japanese Army much their version of the P-47 in my book just has that bulky look about it.I painted the interior colors Tamiya Interior Japanese Green 71 very close to MrHobby 23 letting that part dry overnight but I could not stop there.The fuselage builds like a ship model with three bridges that really align and stabilize the fuse.I also went ahead and started the tail,tailplane and the landing flaps the model just builds like many little sub-assemblies!I rather like!I will probably have the copit finished tomorrow.