Ryland Craze

I found these stool/chairs on eBay as I did the people.  They all are 1/20 scale.  I think the chairs look better than the platform the kit supplies.
 
I go to model boats and search for 1/20 scale and find these treasures.

Ian I am glad you are back. I sure can use any advice you can give.

Good to see you back, Bob.
 
Yes, NiMH cells in theory are 1.2V so your 6-packs should give you 7.2V.
 
However, they do charge up to a slightly higher voltage. When taken off the charger they're usually around 1.4V, or 8.4V for your six-packs, as you observed. Does it matter? It doesn't matter for the batteries; this is normal behaviour. They should drop slightly after a few hours off the charger. What about your ESC and motors? It probably doesn't matter (I think you have brushed motors?) although they will burn a little more power since more current flows with the higher voltage. I think you got your stuff from "Big Bob"? - if so he will have chosen compatible components, knowing the characteristics of NiMH.
 
In use the pack voltage should drop to 7.2V fairly quickly.
 
Looking forward to the maiden video from the pond! She's a beauty.
 
Regards,
Ian

On a side note I found this lifeboat and deck chairs on EBay.  They are from one of the early MARX constellation kits.
 
I think the boat looks very realistic and I will add the chairs and the boat to my model.  I need to paint the chairs to match my other deck chairs or maybe not and add some more color to the boat.

The first step for me is to charge the batteries.  I could not do that before.  On rereading the charger instructions I learned you have to hold the start button for 3 seconds to start charging.
 
My batteries are NiMH 1,2 volts in packs of six totaling 7.2 volts.  There are two of these together supplying 14.4 volts to the R/C system.
 
I have one charged to 8.43 volts not 7.2.  I don't know if that maters.  If you are new to this log I'll tell you that I know little to nothing about R/C boats.
 
The next step is to plug the batteries into the system and see what happens.  One battery is charged the other is charging.
 
 

I am back
I am going to finish the electronics and float this boat

I want to keep this build log open since this boat is a R/C model and I haven't gotten the R/C components working yet.  The superstructure is finished but not the electronics and she has yet to float in the water.
 
Several people here have offered help with the electronics and I want to use that advice.

The model is finished.  The next step is to figure out the electronics.

Except for the flags and some touch up she is complete.

I finished up the apron. I was hesitant to trim the parts all the way down to the line due to potential errors on my part, so stopped a bit short of that and will finish fairing them later. I did accidentally chip a piece off the top of the number 2 part and had to make a repair. You can see that in the last picture.

I then did a dry fit of the remaining keel parts. I noted that the keel is slightly longer than the plan but I believe that is intentional based on what I read in the instructions. I think the most critical point going forward is to make sure the upper and lower apron are in the right position.

I mentioned this previously, I have a gap between the lower apron and the rabbet strip. I didn't sand anything there so not sure what caused it. I reduced the thickness of the plank forming the rabbet strip immediately behind the laser cut part of the rabbet strip and that did nothing. I need to figure out how to deal with this. I may remove the rabbet strip there and try again. Or maybe I should just fill the gap with some strip material. You can see the gap in the picture below.

Work has restarted on Chapter 7, all of the beam positions were checked again and numbered 1-30, #25 was permantly installed and I have started adjusting the bulkheads and doors into position, I really happy to be back building again.
 
ben

And that make it accurate to history.... Even if it isn't how it is remembered....
 
And shows us that things that were very popular in the past might not be so popular in the future... Such are the vagaries of history when its created by human beings...
 
I distinctly remember when the swastika of Nazi Germany was very highly admired around the world, now it is universally held as evil incarnate... (with good reason)
 
Humans being a self-aware social species, tends to whitewash there bad history by removing it from the books... But thankfully, (unfortunately maybe) that doesn't change the truths of history...
 
Tobacco money helped build one of the best and most beautiful race cars that was ever built....

Thanks all for the likes and comments and joining in. 
 
I continue to prep the various body parts and panels and wings.  Some of these parts, especially on the front cowl area, the fit is surprisingly poor for a tamiya kit.  I guess they've come a long way.  Some of the parts are just about done, others I am waiting for the putty to dry so I can sand it smooth and others I am waiting for glue to dry before applying putty.  Once all are good to go, I'll use the splash paints dark gray surfacer and then probably use Tamiya LP-1 gloss black lacquer.
 
For the first time, I've been using the vallejo acrylic based plastic putty.  It is much nicer to work with than the lacquer based tamiya putty though I think you need to let it dry longer before sanding.  It is a little hard to see in the picture, but the tube has a built in pointy applicator which is very handy.
 
It is also interesting to contrast this with the Lotus 49.   Just about 10 years separate the two cars.  The "body" of the lotus 49 was not much more than a simple oval tube, which is quite different from this one.   The large increase in complexity in those 10 years is easily evident even in kit form; I estimate this kit has twice as many parts as the Lotus 49 kit.
 

Your work looks very good, but who is George Stockwell?   I seem to recall seeing the mitered joints on a contemporary model or two, but for the most part they were the lap joints we see on a lot of models here and elsewhere.

I borrowed these from Chucks Cheerful.
Of course, the builders of the Virginia Sloops may have followed a different practice, of which I have no expertise.
 
 

Long over due update. Lots of outdoor yard work to do. So haven’t had much time to work in the shipyard. Sorry, I crammed a lot of stuff in one post. I got all of the bulkheads glued and I faired the tops of the bulkheads for the gun deck. I used a flexible ruler with sticky back sand paper to get the job done. The kit comes with the choice of using the laser cut deck or planking the laser cut deck with 1x5 mm planks. I chose to plank my deck as I think it will offer a better look. I used basswood planking that I milled myself on my mini table saw. I’ve then cut the planks to length and sanded the ends with my Ultimation sander and cutter. For imitating caulking I used a colored pencil for the end grain on the planks because the ink will suck into the pours and make the ends not as sharp. And a non-bleeding ink archival pen for the long grain. Once the planks were laid and sanded smooth and level I applied linseed oil. Once I have a few coats of linseed oil on, I will treenail it with birch wood toothpicks. I don’t like bamboo toothpicks because the grain is porous . I made a photocopy of the laser cut deck before I applied the planking so I have a reference for the tree nail pattern. I really like how the deck came out with all the variation and color and tones of the basswood. I was thinking of using Maple on the main upper deck. But I am thinking I will not have as much variation and wood tones as the basswood. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. Sorry for any typos as I am doing this post on an IPhone at 11:30 at night

Hello Model Ship World,
I am starting a new build log of the HMS Ontario in 1/48 scale by Maris Stella. I have been trying to get this kit for a while and always missed someone’s auction or it would run out of stock. So as luck would have it I won the kit in a raffle held by Olha Batchvarov’s you tube channel. 
The kit came with all the upgraded blocks and cannons. And all the 3d printed parts. So far I got the slipway built and the keel. Thanks for looking. Hopefully I started the build log correctly. 
Thanks for looking!
Chris

It's an ok rendition of probably the greatest racing engine ever built... but there were three that came before it, the Offenhauser, the Miller, and the Peugeot... All considered the greatest of all time... All 4 valves per cylinder DOHC...
 
The Cosworth is legendary...
 
Today, Honda is trying to make it up on that podium...
 
I'm in... 

I guess the likes indicate a yes.  I bought this kit a couple years back from ebay.  This is the original version of the kit.  In hindsight, I overpaid as you can now get the re-issued kit for about 125 bucks, with PE parts.  Oops.  At least the version I have includes the "John Player Special" decals as it was produced just around the time tobacco advertising was being banned in a few places, but not all over.  The current kit is referred to only as the "type 78" on the box and I assume does not have the JPS decals, though they are available from third party suppliers.
 
I've just started a bit on planning the build and started assembling some of the body parts in preparation for painting.  As with other older Tamiya kits, I am expecting a few fit issues and there are also some rather nasty ejector pin marks to deal with.   I'll likely build it mostly out of the box, with some third party seat belts, braided steel lines instead of the kit supplied rubber hoses, and maybe a few other things.
 
And this will be the third time I build a Tamiya Ford DFV engine, as I have already built the Lotus 49 and Lotus 72D. 
 

Glenn,  Thanks for the compliments.  I think it's just the angle of the photos for the pin rails.  They're made/shaped exactly to size from the plans.
 
Erik

Bob, the hull looks great. 

Things are happening,  lol. I have been  moving things around in the shipyard and found out today I put the computer in the wrong place.  This I found out when I spun around  in my chair and over she went. On the floor and in peices.  . A call to tec support  and we were back, Two hours later yep over she gos again, this time the monitor wire now shorts out and I need a new one.. The kid says do you really need one. YES the plans for The King of the Mississippi  are only available on  line and the First Mate  wont let me print the instructions  lol.

So glueing is coming along nicely. 

Once I started glueing  and formulating   what I want this boat to look like started to  studying the logs, parts are not the same. My boat , got planked on the sides , other's have a peice  put on then the planking gos on . Some logs have dark hulls other's light stain. 
I have discovered a few things that I will just have to decide which way to go,  but over all, I think with all the logs and help I am getting  here  it going to be built. 
  

As you see here I used the kit supplied wood.  I did start planking it with walnut,  I had the back done, moving on to the sides I realized that I was going to have to make a lot of small strips and that's was not going to work. Quickly I removed the walnut,  and measured the mahogany and same thing. But low and behold the kit supplied wood fit just like the picture does. 

 I made the stand for the boat , and will use it more or less for a building  stand.
Pretty sure it will be on a river diorama,  after all its a river boat.

Moving on to more glueing  the deck is up next. I am going to put the stables together,  to see if I have to move the slots or has A L fixed that , we will see. Lol.
I also have to check to see if my boat has sprail staircases or straight,  I haven't looked that far into the box yet 😅. 
 So this build will be my interpretation of the plans that I have, I can't wait to start glueing the siding on, and then more glueing of the next deck, I am starting to  miss ratlines  . But I am Grinning  😀. 
There is lots I don't understand,  but sorting it out. Lots to do before that.
 Thanks for looking. 
Bob M 
 
 
 
 

Finished the boom crutches final shaping and applied the first coat of black paint. 

Next to be built are the mounting steps with the first being creating a scraping tool to make the edge shapes. Using a 1/32" thick piece of brass sheet I files the shape making sure the sides would fit the piece of woods thickness.

Using the tool the shapes were drawn onto the wood strip. The strip was cut into 6 correct lengths and sanded to the finished shapes.
Shape shown on end of strip before being cut to length.

After carefully removing a section of strip the steps were glued in place as shown on the plans using a piece of masking tape to ensure step alignment.

Next to paint and apply wipe on poly to the bare wood matching the existing.
 
 

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

Happy Memorial Day all.  Here in Delaware it is, once again, raining.  A good excuse to plunge into my next project - the main deck hatch coaming. 
 
I haven't built anything like this before.  My Robert Hunt practicum shows 2 ways to make it- the default is with butt joints and looks straightforward.  Those with a bit more confidence could do mitered joints.  Hmmm...
 
But then I happened on a picture in Grant Walker's Volume 3 and it all went to heck.

Mitered half-lapped joints?   sweet.  The George Stockwell coamings above are lower, whereas the one I'm attempting to make are tall and tapering but I thought I could figure it out. 
 
Right from the outset I was having trouble visualizing what the joint pieces would look like.  My cartoons mostly confused me even more and looking at them now I realize I initially added an extra butt joint.  Even with revisions I was still not clearly visualizing the joints and especially how to make them.

The coaming is supposed to stick up 1/4" above the deck, and my deck planking will be 3/64" thick, so my wood stock will be 1/4" + 3/64" = whatever that adds up to.  I wanted some of the butt joint to be visible above the decking so I decided to extend it 7/64" high and start the taper a 64th above.  This was a lot of thinking and measuring with calipers and math.
 
Below is my first test pieces, made from the kit's limewood.  These were not measured and only served to help me visualize the shape of the joints.  I glued various pieces of stock wood together; there wasn't an exact match in the kit.  I also have the hand powered Ultimation Sander (which works very well) and I used it to make the 45 degree miters on the short pieces (left) below.  It can't be used for the long pieces (right) below as the butt joint part of the coaming stick out.

The practicum and the pictures in Grant Walker's book both show the endgrain of the butt joint being oriented fore-aft so thats what I did as well.
 
Miters are challenging at any scale; I needed to cheat, so I made some jigs.  The sections in David Anscherl's and Greg Herbert's various book about making lites was very helpful.  I am still making test pieces here and I didn't take pictures of every step but I will do a better job with the actual holly stock.
 
Below I glued 2 pieces of rectangular wood to my board and put 2 pieces of thin strip below the test stock to raise it up so exactly 7/64" stuck up out of the jig.  Some walnut wedges kept it from shifting.  I had used my smallest square and a scalpel previously to incise the edges of the butt joint; then I used the edge of my chisel held flat on the jig to incise a fine line on both sides which defined the rest of the butt joint.  Then I gradually chiseled out the waste.  This made a very square and flat joint.

As before these test pieces are made up of several glued up smaller pieces.
 
Below you can see my miter jig.  I clamped the long piece of coaming to the jig and holding a flat chisel against the jig used it to cut the miters.  I didn't take pics of this process but I will next time.
 

and here's another pic of the joint

All good so far.  I glued it together with yellow glue mixed with a little graphite, same as I have previously done on my scarf joints. 

And finally I drew some lines with my compass marking out the taper and first chiseled then refined the coaming's taper with sanding sticks.  The camera kept insisting my fingers were more interesting than the wood joint I was holding, sorry about that.
 

 
And there is my ever first mitered butt joint.  Next up is preparing my holly stock and doing it for real.
 
Thanks for reading
 
Cisco
 

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.