Ryland Craze

For scuppers: My method (waterway in place) is, first accurate mark-out both inboard and out. Drill with a very small diameter bit from both sides. Hopefully the holes will meet - at least partially. Then progressively enlarge using larger diameter bits and needle files, making minor corrections as you go until you reach the diameter of the scupper.
 
I've not drilled hawseholes in years. I file the half-holes in the hawse pieced before assembly. Again, I make them slightly under final size, then file them out once planking is complete.

Looking really nice, Chuck. Your progress is amazing and the ship looks aesthetically pleasing, at least to my eye.
 
As I recall, when I did the scuppers on Cheerful, I started with a small diameter drill that was large enough to get the point of a round needle file inside. Then I just rolled it to increase the hole size. Once the hole size was close a final drilling to even out the taper worked nicely. Like I said, as I recall. To be honest I'm not 100% sure.

Very crisp and clean Chris, you are a master at this in my book. Must need such a careful touch. 

More cowl bits added. I mighta got more done today except I spent the entire day stripping the old finish off my fence. 😬
 

I can't/couldn't build just one if I tried.   I'm constantly amazed at you guys that can take two dimensional paper and create a three dimensional realistic object. I bet ya'll are great at putting up wallpaper!

Welcome aboard, Marcel! Card models are kinda like Lay's Potato Chips -- no one can build just one!

I want to take the Seahorse Zeven Provincien and enlarge it to 1/64 scale to match my other models.
 
That one is on my bucket list.

Welcome, Marcel!
 
Seems like there are quite a few card modelers here. Not too many card build logs active at any one time but the builders are here, watching and willing to help.
 
I'm not sure I'll go back to developing my wood working modeling skills. That's how much I'm enjoying building in card. There's not a lot of investment in tools needed (not to mention the space for a decent wood shop). I think there's a greater variety of kits available in card than in wood. Certainly card modeling has a lower cost of entry. If I spend 30 dollars on a card kit and never build it, no great loss. If I spend 300 on a wooden kit and never build it (or attempt and fail), well, the expense would just make me feel the failure even more.
 
And you can't ever regret trying a Seahorse kit!
 
 

Welcome aboard, Marcel!

I build 2 HMV kits, a small fishing boat included in the ''Seefalke'' set and the small HMV ferry Adler IV. And now I'm building the Seefalke itself. I started small, my goal is a battle ship and eventually the Seahorse ''Zeven provinciën''

Hey Marcel, What ships have you been building? Welcome to MSW.
 
I just got into card modeling. I just butchered the seahorse Armed Virginia Sloop -1776. I was rushing and messed up some of the alignment... mistakes were made, and lessons were learned. Anyway, I've just got my hands on the Shipyard HMS Alert -1777 and have put all the frames together. Look's promising. 
 
 

Marcel, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard. 

But for now I stick to paper model kits, scratchbuilding I save for later😉

Thanks for the link to the article of Ab Hoving GrandpaPhil!
I need all the information I can get 😀

Welcome!
 
I started building paper ships a few years back after I found Ab Hoving’s tutorial on this forum.
 
 
I found it while on a business trip and read it several times and realized that it was doable.
 
When I got home I started the Prince de Neufchatel.
 
I’ve completed several since then.

Welcome aboard! I beleive there are many other paper modelers here who you can share ideas with.

Hello fellow shipbuilders,
I would like to briefly introduce myself. My name is Marcel and I come from the Netherlands. The land of famous shipbuilders. I have been a model maker since my youth (35+ years) and mainly in plastic and building armour.
But recently I started making paper model ships, and I think I'm hooked! I am now working on my third ship. I must say that I am quite inspired by the paper projects on this forum.
I'm not very good at keeping construction records, but maybe that will come naturally.
Greetings from the Netherlands.

Keith,
 
It was I who edited your build log title. I did this as part of an overhaul of all the build log titles on our site, to conform them to our site guidelines. The job took nearly two months to complete, as we have thousands of build logs here, so perhaps you can see why I didn't ask everyone whose logs were tidied up for permission to do so in advance. As for your log in particular, I added the information about Madawaska because the 1869 launch date for Tennessee isn't the original launch date for the ship itself -- personally, I think that little bit of extra info is interesting, but if you wish you may strike the last bit from the log title, or I can do it for you.
 
Kind regards,
Chris

If you are an NRG member there is a video posted in the member's section on Airbrush Basics.  In addition there is a list of resources with the video that lists some informational videos on cleaning your airbrush.  Open the NRG website and look under Events then pick Workshops from the drop down.
 

A lot like drilling holes for multiple strips and eyelets on the hull you spent almost a year planking. Not much opportunity for recovery. 

Oh its scary…one slip up and it will be hard to fix.  But that is true when you drill hawse holes and scuppers on any model.  A year of hard work and one slip up…poofff.

Seeing the results of your work, Chuck, one would not think that there are any modeling tasks that could possibly terrify you.

While I was away, I had taken a bunch of milled cedar strips of various widths.  All were 3/64" thick.   I spent my evenings planking the decks which was quite nice and relaxing.  My wife was also enjoying some wine from the local vineyards while working on her own relaxing projects while overlooking the Long Island Sound.
 
Not much to say about how to plank the decks as the gun deck and poop were planked like any other deck.  Just taper the strips following the provided deck plans.   You must cut around the hatches and coamings as usual.   These were the most difficult planks to cut but not awful.   It just takes careful planning and cutting.
 
These were the last two planks which I waiting to return home so I could photograph them before gluing them in permanently.
 

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.   The forecastle deck planks were cut from a 3/64" sheet because of their curvature as I mentioned.  But the gun deck and poop were planked with strips.  The curves are not that severe and it was a lot easier this way.   Note the gentle curve of the planks.
 

NOW...how much deck planking should be added.   Its really just a personal decision.  What do like more....or less.
 
I have an extra strake on the gun deck where  the cannon will be located.  I dont particularly like when the carriage trucks are hanging over the edge if there were too few strakes.   But maybe you are OK with that.  This planking scheme matches the plans I provided but you guys can change to suit your sensibilities.  Looking at the photos you can see why I omitted all of the deck knees (hanging and lodging).  You can try really hard but would ever be able to see even a whisper of them.  It just doesnt make sense to add them with this planking layout.  I hope you will agree.
 


Next up will be something I have been blissfully ignoring.  Its a bit terrifying for any ship modeler. I will be drilling the scupper holes and hawse holes.   Usually I drill the scuppers after adding the waterway.  But this usually chips and frays the waterway.   So I am going to try something new.  I will drill the scuppers first and then add the waterway strip.   I will mark and file the waterway strip so it will hopefully not get damaged.  We shall see.
 
The hawse holes are a different story.  Those will require some really careful planning.
 
But waiting any longer to do these will only make them more terrifying. 
 
Chuck