Ryland Craze

Long over due update. Lots of outdoor yard work to do. So haven’t had much time to work in the shipyard. Sorry, I crammed a lot of stuff in one post. I got all of the bulkheads glued and I faired the tops of the bulkheads for the gun deck. I used a flexible ruler with sticky back sand paper to get the job done. The kit comes with the choice of using the laser cut deck or planking the laser cut deck with 1x5 mm planks. I chose to plank my deck as I think it will offer a better look. I used basswood planking that I milled myself on my mini table saw. I’ve then cut the planks to length and sanded the ends with my Ultimation sander and cutter. For imitating caulking I used a colored pencil for the end grain on the planks because the ink will suck into the pours and make the ends not as sharp. And a non-bleeding ink archival pen for the long grain. Once the planks were laid and sanded smooth and level I applied linseed oil. Once I have a few coats of linseed oil on, I will treenail it with birch wood toothpicks. I don’t like bamboo toothpicks because the grain is porous . I made a photocopy of the laser cut deck before I applied the planking so I have a reference for the tree nail pattern. I really like how the deck came out with all the variation and color and tones of the basswood. I was thinking of using Maple on the main upper deck. But I am thinking I will not have as much variation and wood tones as the basswood. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. Sorry for any typos as I am doing this post on an IPhone at 11:30 at night

Hello Model Ship World,
I am starting a new build log of the HMS Ontario in 1/48 scale by Maris Stella. I have been trying to get this kit for a while and always missed someone’s auction or it would run out of stock. So as luck would have it I won the kit in a raffle held by Olha Batchvarov’s you tube channel. 
The kit came with all the upgraded blocks and cannons. And all the 3d printed parts. So far I got the slipway built and the keel. Thanks for looking. Hopefully I started the build log correctly. 
Thanks for looking!
Chris

It's an ok rendition of probably the greatest racing engine ever built... but there were three that came before it, the Offenhauser, the Miller, and the Peugeot... All considered the greatest of all time... All 4 valves per cylinder DOHC...
 
The Cosworth is legendary...
 
Today, Honda is trying to make it up on that podium...
 
I'm in... 

I guess the likes indicate a yes.  I bought this kit a couple years back from ebay.  This is the original version of the kit.  In hindsight, I overpaid as you can now get the re-issued kit for about 125 bucks, with PE parts.  Oops.  At least the version I have includes the "John Player Special" decals as it was produced just around the time tobacco advertising was being banned in a few places, but not all over.  The current kit is referred to only as the "type 78" on the box and I assume does not have the JPS decals, though they are available from third party suppliers.
 
I've just started a bit on planning the build and started assembling some of the body parts in preparation for painting.  As with other older Tamiya kits, I am expecting a few fit issues and there are also some rather nasty ejector pin marks to deal with.   I'll likely build it mostly out of the box, with some third party seat belts, braided steel lines instead of the kit supplied rubber hoses, and maybe a few other things.
 
And this will be the third time I build a Tamiya Ford DFV engine, as I have already built the Lotus 49 and Lotus 72D. 
 

Glenn,  Thanks for the compliments.  I think it's just the angle of the photos for the pin rails.  They're made/shaped exactly to size from the plans.
 
Erik

Bob, the hull looks great. 

Things are happening,  lol. I have been  moving things around in the shipyard and found out today I put the computer in the wrong place.  This I found out when I spun around  in my chair and over she went. On the floor and in peices.  . A call to tec support  and we were back, Two hours later yep over she gos again, this time the monitor wire now shorts out and I need a new one.. The kid says do you really need one. YES the plans for The King of the Mississippi  are only available on  line and the First Mate  wont let me print the instructions  lol.

So glueing is coming along nicely. 

Once I started glueing  and formulating   what I want this boat to look like started to  studying the logs, parts are not the same. My boat , got planked on the sides , other's have a peice  put on then the planking gos on . Some logs have dark hulls other's light stain. 
I have discovered a few things that I will just have to decide which way to go,  but over all, I think with all the logs and help I am getting  here  it going to be built. 
  

As you see here I used the kit supplied wood.  I did start planking it with walnut,  I had the back done, moving on to the sides I realized that I was going to have to make a lot of small strips and that's was not going to work. Quickly I removed the walnut,  and measured the mahogany and same thing. But low and behold the kit supplied wood fit just like the picture does. 

 I made the stand for the boat , and will use it more or less for a building  stand.
Pretty sure it will be on a river diorama,  after all its a river boat.

Moving on to more glueing  the deck is up next. I am going to put the stables together,  to see if I have to move the slots or has A L fixed that , we will see. Lol.
I also have to check to see if my boat has sprail staircases or straight,  I haven't looked that far into the box yet 😅. 
 So this build will be my interpretation of the plans that I have, I can't wait to start glueing the siding on, and then more glueing of the next deck, I am starting to  miss ratlines  . But I am Grinning  😀. 
There is lots I don't understand,  but sorting it out. Lots to do before that.
 Thanks for looking. 
Bob M 
 
 
 
 

Finished the boom crutches final shaping and applied the first coat of black paint. 

Next to be built are the mounting steps with the first being creating a scraping tool to make the edge shapes. Using a 1/32" thick piece of brass sheet I files the shape making sure the sides would fit the piece of woods thickness.

Using the tool the shapes were drawn onto the wood strip. The strip was cut into 6 correct lengths and sanded to the finished shapes.
Shape shown on end of strip before being cut to length.

After carefully removing a section of strip the steps were glued in place as shown on the plans using a piece of masking tape to ensure step alignment.

Next to paint and apply wipe on poly to the bare wood matching the existing.
 
 

Any interest out there in a build log for another Tamiya 1/12th scale F1 car?

Happy Memorial Day all.  Here in Delaware it is, once again, raining.  A good excuse to plunge into my next project - the main deck hatch coaming. 
 
I haven't built anything like this before.  My Robert Hunt practicum shows 2 ways to make it- the default is with butt joints and looks straightforward.  Those with a bit more confidence could do mitered joints.  Hmmm...
 
But then I happened on a picture in Grant Walker's Volume 3 and it all went to heck.

Mitered half-lapped joints?   sweet.  The George Stockwell coamings above are lower, whereas the one I'm attempting to make are tall and tapering but I thought I could figure it out. 
 
Right from the outset I was having trouble visualizing what the joint pieces would look like.  My cartoons mostly confused me even more and looking at them now I realize I initially added an extra butt joint.  Even with revisions I was still not clearly visualizing the joints and especially how to make them.

The coaming is supposed to stick up 1/4" above the deck, and my deck planking will be 3/64" thick, so my wood stock will be 1/4" + 3/64" = whatever that adds up to.  I wanted some of the butt joint to be visible above the decking so I decided to extend it 7/64" high and start the taper a 64th above.  This was a lot of thinking and measuring with calipers and math.
 
Below is my first test pieces, made from the kit's limewood.  These were not measured and only served to help me visualize the shape of the joints.  I glued various pieces of stock wood together; there wasn't an exact match in the kit.  I also have the hand powered Ultimation Sander (which works very well) and I used it to make the 45 degree miters on the short pieces (left) below.  It can't be used for the long pieces (right) below as the butt joint part of the coaming stick out.

The practicum and the pictures in Grant Walker's book both show the endgrain of the butt joint being oriented fore-aft so thats what I did as well.
 
Miters are challenging at any scale; I needed to cheat, so I made some jigs.  The sections in David Anscherl's and Greg Herbert's various book about making lites was very helpful.  I am still making test pieces here and I didn't take pictures of every step but I will do a better job with the actual holly stock.
 
Below I glued 2 pieces of rectangular wood to my board and put 2 pieces of thin strip below the test stock to raise it up so exactly 7/64" stuck up out of the jig.  Some walnut wedges kept it from shifting.  I had used my smallest square and a scalpel previously to incise the edges of the butt joint; then I used the edge of my chisel held flat on the jig to incise a fine line on both sides which defined the rest of the butt joint.  Then I gradually chiseled out the waste.  This made a very square and flat joint.

As before these test pieces are made up of several glued up smaller pieces.
 
Below you can see my miter jig.  I clamped the long piece of coaming to the jig and holding a flat chisel against the jig used it to cut the miters.  I didn't take pics of this process but I will next time.
 

and here's another pic of the joint

All good so far.  I glued it together with yellow glue mixed with a little graphite, same as I have previously done on my scarf joints. 

And finally I drew some lines with my compass marking out the taper and first chiseled then refined the coaming's taper with sanding sticks.  The camera kept insisting my fingers were more interesting than the wood joint I was holding, sorry about that.
 

 
And there is my ever first mitered butt joint.  Next up is preparing my holly stock and doing it for real.
 
Thanks for reading
 
Cisco
 

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

Empennage is done. I can't give this kit high marks for number and quality of diagrams, not for sufficiency of internal structure. I had to muddle through the former and scratch-build some of the latter, but it turned out okay, I think.
 

 

 

Thank you Chuck, it was the elegant sheer that attracted me to the model. Overall it is a thing of beauty.
 
Post 20
In continuation.

4753
The re-made bow Breasthook/knee has been glued into place, I think I’ve got a close fit.

4754
I have continued to clean up the woodwork prior to applying a coat of w-o-p.
 
With w-o-p applied to the frames and inner boarding it is time to consider paint.
As with the Queen Anne Barge I will be using Vallejo acrylics.

3434(1)
For that build I used Flat Red for the Barge paintwork.
The uniforms for the Royal Company of Watermen were of a brighter hue.
 

4837
Before I committed to the paint shade I compared the likely Vallejo options.
I think Flat Red (top option) still has the edge so I’ll stick with that.

4848
A first coat of thinned paint is applied, the first of several, and a first opportunity for the paint to reveal where areas need attention.

4842

4846
On with the show.
 
B.E.
27/05/2024
 

I wired up some LED's with 0,03 mm coated wire and tested for half an houher to be sure the wires did not get hot.

 
Untill next update, enjoy modelling.

Hey Robb, yeah I was concerned about that. I made sure it was a pretty loose fit before paint. Fingers crossed!🤞 

Brush painting, I believe, is a skill that is developed over time through trial and error.  In my experience the key to a good brushed finish is to apply several thin coats of paint to let the paint level out between applications.  A good quality brush, such as an artist's brush also contributes to success.  If the paint applied is too thick, it won't level out properly.  Are you using acrylics?  I've read that some modelers use actual artists' acrylics from the tube because the pigment is ground finer.  I've had good luck brushing Tamiya acrylics thinned with 91% isopropyl alcohol.  Your pram is coming along nicely.  Don't sweat the mistakes.  They are inevitable and an opportunity to learn what does and does not work.  
 
Stay the course and enjoy the journey.  Sometimes I have to remind myself that we build models for enjoyment.  Carry on!  Keep up the good work.
 
 

Close-up photography is the enemy of being satisfied with a job well done -- it highlights a wealth of tiny mistakes that no one will notice at normal viewing distances. I have to remind myself of this fact all the time.

Thanks guys, topic now moved.

Is there some kind of typo here or some kind of humor? ❔
 

 

 
 

Considering earlier discussion it should easily fall within 1501-1750.

There was a French 1st rate Le Fulminant built at Rochefort Dockyard 1691.
 
B.E.
 
 

So now all those detail pieces are painted and mounted.  Pictures below are five of the area around the large superstructure stern turret, and five of the area around the bow turret.  There are two more large turrets aft and fore of these respectively, yet to be built.
 
The little winders are finished with thread to represent rope.  On the sides you will also see paravanes.  I was not aware that large ships like the Bismarck had paravanes to do their own minesweeping, but apparently so.
 
Regards,
David

Thanks for the warm welcome everybody!

Thanks Ab, I've got something to look for now!

As to your second question:
In 2000 I published a book called 'De schepen van Abel Tasman' at Verloren Publishers (www.Verloren.nl), both in Dutch and in German and English especially for model builders. The Dutch version was sold out long ago, but probably you can get it second hands somewhere. A lot of what you need can be found in the book.