Ryland Craze

As I mentioned in an earlier posting, the MS plan drawings of the rail supports do not fit properly on my model. Whether I’m at fault or the plans are, is immaterial. These have to be custom made now., By trial and error measuring using card stock, a first try template was drawn and cut out of the cardstock. Once I got the card stock to fit, it was traced onto 1/8” thick stock wood. Once I got the wooden piece to fit, I realized that it had to be refined a bit more. A second wood rail support was fabricated. This was able to fit properly onto the rails. The support was removed, painted and pin striped. Finally, it was installed. This was repeated the same manner (with or without an extra preliminary wood support as needed) for the remaining nine supports.

This is when I discover a new problem. According to the MS plans, the precut gammoning holes in the stem are supposed to be between supports Nos. 2 and 3. Per the marks I just made with the gratings, the gammoning holes straddle rail support No. 3. The gammoning holes are where the gammoning chains pass through. Looking at the US Navy 1927 -31 Restoration plan No. 24779, the gammoning holes have been replaced with eye bolts embedded into the stem. The gammoning chains are then connected to the eye bolts. The chains are fastened to the bowsprit in the same manner as shown in the MS plans. These stem bolts are positioned half the distances apart as the pre-cut holes are and appear to be straddling rail support No. 3 from the numerous photos that I’ve looked at. Based on the all the ambiguities, just about nobody will even know about or bother to look inside the rails supports to see if there is even any gammoning there, let alone whether it is correct or not. Therefore, I am going to use the existing gammoning holes as they exist on my model in lieu of the embedded bolts shown on the US Navy plans, just because as builder of the model, I like the way they look.

Now it’s time to install the rail supports. These are positioned such that the joints of the floor grating in the seats of ease area, rest on the horizontal structural beams attached to the rail supports. In other words. Where the gratings meet, that is where the rail support is supposed to be. Using the grating parts supplied in the MS kit, I taped the three pieces together that make up most of the flooring, to mark off where the joints are with the architect tape on the stem.

Thankyou David, I'm already thinking  Where am I going to put this!
 
Chapter Two
First Stages
In this stage most of the heavy weight mdf items are assembled.
The initial assembly slots together cleanly, and I must commend Chris on the sharpness and fit of the laser work.
I did run a sanding stick in the Bulkhead slots to smooth the char and where necessary a light tap with a pein hammer (not directly) seated the parts fully down.
I found I needed to ease the slots for the securing pegs which run thro’ the keel assembly. Even so they are a snug fit and I don’t really think they need glue.

0384
The keel is still quite floppy at this stage due to its length, so I utilised the Amati keel clamp whilst I fettled and inserted the pegs.

0383
With this beast the keel clamp is at the limit of its capacity, and I’m toying with the idea of buying a second to double the length, and provide a more stable support.
A deeper bench would be ideal but not really feasible. I will have to be careful when turning the hull that those delicate frame tops don’t collide with the wall.

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Note: There is a minor error in the manual at Stages 21/22. Bulkhead 17 is not removeable as indicated, as it is held by part 40. Chris has issued a pdf amendment addressing this.

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A small area of the Orlop deck is represented beneath the Fore hatchways, which I ‘dressed’ using spare engraved maple decking.

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The Lower deck slips seamlessly into place and there is a plywood planking engraved section that presumably covers the area that may be observed thro’ the Upper deck openings.
The Orlop and Lower deck decking section are the only parts glued at this stage.

0401
I considered whether to over-plank the Lower deck section, as will be done to the upper deck, but very little will be seen and I think the marked plank lines and butts will be sufficient for the purpose.

0401
Very nicely cut grating sets which I will install ‘as is’ for the lower deck.

0397
The assembly of ladders always give me trouble but a simple jig helps a little.
The final action in this Chapter is to add the Longitudinal bracing pieces (No.30) and parts5b/11b described as a gundeck beam.

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Note: Parts 30 are to be found on the 4mm mdf sheet not 3mmm as indicated. May save you a little time in sifting thro’ the sheets.
 
I did have a slight mishap with one of the part 30 pieces, which broke about one-third along at the weak point of the slot top.
Take care if easing these slots the part is very whippy and care needs to be taken.

0408
This completes this section, more of an assembly than a build at this stage.
 
 I can only marvel at the ingenuity of Chris to design a beast like this held securely together with barely any glue.
 
B.E.
10/03/2023
 

Thanks Jason.
It's only the equivalent of buying the Pearwood Rigging block kit version, but with Boxwood planking substituted for the blocks, and with additional planking included.
 
For those who may be interested this is the cutting list for the replacements I envisage.
500mm long strips
20pkts Boxwood strip 4x1mm (200 strips.) for decking.
2 pkts Boxwood strip 6x1mm (20 strips) for decking.
4 pkts Boxwood strip 5x1 (40 strips) for gunport stripe and down to waterline
Boxwood sheet 1mm 500mm (L) x 100mm (w)  for cutting margin planks, etc;
 
I bought that carronade from a village shop sometime in the 1970s, it's a heavy cast iron beast, made around the same time. I also purchased a larger scale 24 pounder long gun. Both carriages are made of English oak, and the breeching line I made myself at the Chatham dockyard, sometime in the 1990's
 
B.E.

dont follow me, im useless
 

Chapter One
Formulating a plan
Wow – Sphinx on steroids!

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I’ll leave my assistant to do the initial inventory while I continue to fiddle with Medway.
 
I can’t be doing with hauling that box around, so first steps are to sort the box content and put aside all the items I won’t be using. Smaller delicate items are put into a smaller container.
 
I have been waiting to see what the supplied Red Alder deck planking looks like. Jim’s prototype build used maple pre-engraved decks.

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Under artificial light.

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Under natural window light.

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It is a nice-looking wood, but I understand Alder tends to darken with age, in tone it reminds me of Tanganyika, but a lot nicer.
 
My preference is for Boxwood for decking.
I would have gone for the top of the range Boxwood kit, but I didn’t need the Pearwood blocks, (£140) and the premium for the Boxwood version is a hefty £590. That’s a good chunk of a Sphinx worth!
 
Still, I want what I want, therefore I have put in an order for the necessary Boxwood planking from
Hobbymill.eu precision milled exotic woods and woodturning blanks
which also allows me to include wider strips which are often necessary for decking purposes, and sheet to cut margin planks.
Also included is Boxwood planking for the Topsides down to the wale. I am thinking of a contrasting wood for the Gunport stripe.
 
I am also thinking of coppering this model, think the wonderful model of Bellona, but I am easy with a pearwood lower hull should my resolve fail.
 
This is an additional cost but one that is only equivalent to the cost of the pearwood blocks set and provides me with a nice saving over the cost of the Boxwood kit.
 
I have little doubt at all that the cost of sundries and extras  will add more as the build progresses, they certainly did on my Sphinx build.
 
Time for a little light assembly work I think.
 
B.E.
09/03/2023

So, I ordered the 3"/50s and quad 1" AA from a vendor on Shapeways, and they arrived today. My first impression, made without my visor at hand -- just a lot of squinting, is that the 3"/50 mounts are good, but that the quad 1" mount is less so. The latter comes in multiple pieces and appears to have some excess material that may need to be removed. The barrels are also less than perfectly round. But I will postpone a final judgment until I have had a chance to look at things under magnification and assemble and paint them. When might that be? Don't know at this point, but at least I will be able to move forward with this project once I can get back to my bench.

Progress Photos
 
Pleased with the results.

Hull Painting - Dark Green
 
Leveled the model and marked the waterline.

Set the model on its side on a red rag, and applied a single continuous piece of Tamiya masking tape along the marks.  Then lightly burnished the tape with a wooden tongue depressor.
 
Finally used construction paper to make a skirt around the model.  Applied Tamiya XF-26 Deep Green with the Iwata RG-3 mini sprayer @20#.

 

Progress Photo
 
Turrets painted.  Turrets and gun barrels dry fitted.  Happy Friday!
 

 
 

Painting the Waterways
 
An exercise in masking….
 
Used Tamiya 3mm tape as a spacer at the edge half round hull trim, then masked along its inside edge, and construction paper to mask the remaining deck.

Then removed the white tape.  Not shown is I masked the top edge of the half round.

Then painted the waterway Tamiya Desert Yellow XF-26, with Paasche Talon #2 tip.  Next masked over the waterway and painted the top edge of the half-round white.



 

I’ve mentioned my other hobby is photography. I recently returned from a two week trip to Patagonia and since my return processing images. I’ve completed a gallery of my favorites. If interested they can be seen on my website by clicking on Patagonia 2023 (it was my second trip). Now back to ship building. 
 
 

Hi Roman and welcome to Model Ship World.  Building ship models is a very rewarding hobby.  I think you will enjoy it.

Hi Roman and welcome to Model Ship World.  Building ship models is a very rewarding hobby.  I think you will enjoy it.

They were in my kit too. The directions didn’t mention them so I thought they were for the other builds. I’ve started on the Norwegian sailing Pram so I’m going to use them on it. More minds more info. Thanks 
 
Bryan

Hi Bryan. The wood conditioner and satin finish are from Model Expo. I used the wood conditioner to seal the oars so the satin finish wouldn't build up. After the wood conditioner I used some 320 sandpaper to smooth them and then used the satin finish to give it a varnished look without the shine. Attached is a picture of the 2 bottles.

Thank you for the complement.

Had some time over the weekend to update the build log. This is my finished base. I rounded the edges of the base and the cradles. Sanded it with  320 sand paper and then 400 grit to give it a smooth finish. I then used an espresso poly stain. The name plate was made from scrap wood. I stained the name plate with a Pecan poly stain. The lettering was created on my computer and printed on my ink jet printer. I then sealed the name plated with a clear stain finish. Really like how it turned out.
 
Anyone have any comments on the base? 

Great way to display the oars. Very unique.
The Dory looks great. Nice work. Look forward to seeing the Parm.

Nice neat job and presentation, Bryan. Well done!

Thank you.

The legacy continues… No. doubt a reference model for Indy builders on the making.

Most late 18th Century Admiralty Board Models were/are fully planked, the models with frames showing is more of a 17th Century practice - but did extend well into the 18th Century. But overall, a model at the time of Indy would most probably have had a fully planked hull - but still full internal detail.

from another Cocker Spaniel owner, im sure you will overtake me within a few days