slow2cool

Thanks Sam.   Uh...buy it again...?  No.  It's been discontinued and there were really were not accessories for it.   I've posted elsewhere on this that I think that when this one dies (or I just get tired of fiddling with getting things like vises to work) I'll get a different mill.  

Zoltan,
This small plane, a plane Lute. I bought it on ebay.de
 
Pawel

Square knot... cool thanks I'll do one of those.

I think when you begin the deck planking,  the solution will reveal itself.   it possibly could be walled off and hidden as well.......especially if you find a loss of info as to what is to go there.   rudder shaft?  ammo locker or sleeping quarters.........the gun deck would be above this deck,  I do believe.......it will cap it off.

That's a hughe build, Jim. Can't imagine how I missed this one ...

thanks very much Denis,
 
I was using brass profiles for the deck edges with the "Heinrich Kayser" merchant steamer superstructure, so there was a little experience made there...
 
Nils

metal work looks very nice.........awesome!

I like the blacken-it tip. Be almost like a layer of primer for the brass and I will have many tiny parts on my Hood build.

Thanks again for the likes and comments.
 
This truly is a work in progress.   The situation is slowly resolving itself...   
 
Today's update is somewhat tiny... waterways.    The first picture shows the mill setup with the ball cutter.  I pass each waterway piece through the jig and each time take off more material.   Picture 2 shows the profile on a test piece that I'm aiming for.   I'll need to profile the side against the hull during installation to get a good fit.
 

 

Thanks,
 
I might give some part of a PE sheet a whiff of paint, have a look what that will do ...
 
Your tank looks good!

Honest truth, the Tiger tank I did a couple years ago with (what felt like ) a ton of PE on it....I didn't do anything at all to prep it per sé...and primer adhered just fine, even on the larger flat pieces like the fenders (you can see it by clicking on my signature...board wouldn't let me use the img tag).
 
Unless a part is overtly contaminated, today's model paints do a pretty good job holding on, though if something will be subject to a lot of handling after being painted then more care could be wise.

Lawrence,
 
thank you for your compliment and the  nice words...
 
Nils

Thank you very much for your input by comments Ben, Roger and Carl,
very much appreciated..
 
Nils

Thank you Brian, Mark, Doc & Joe.
 
I am more verbose than most Joe because I am both slower and since I lack experience I am trying to show all the nitty gritty in hopes that one of you will catch me before I get way beyond my ability to reasonably recover.
 
The pictures in the manual show walnut but the supplied wood is far from that quality. I do not know what it is other than soft.
 
Edge bending to achieve a result similar to spiles took me a week of reading and finally Chuck's video to understand. Reading and doing are two different things .  .  .  .
 
The uppermost strake seen forward in the following photos is the wale plank.  I extended it one more piece aft, leaving one section to go. Learning from your build Mark, when I joined the piece to the wale plank I laid another alongside temporarily to assure the transition would be straight and unnoticed. Slight bending downward will take place beyond.
 
I also like the layout seen in the second group of pictures from the previous post. It seemed to embody the lessons so many have written, but I wanted to present it for opinions in case I was blind siding myself.
 
Today, for future reference, I carefully traced both sides of all four banding planks onto the hull, then tic'd off the uppermost band from my arbitrary 0 frame to the stem. I will end up with approximately 3/4 plank width there.
 

 
Here is another view further forward.
 

 
Before extending the wale strake I needed to finish planking the transom because the finish planking should overlay the transom edge.
 

 
I also had seam blackening for unknown reasons that I have seen others remark about. I am experimenting with an idea that I hope will prevent it. Chuck Passaro, in his CHEERFUL build makes a point of mentioning not using edge glue. He has as you know pencil blackened the edges to simulate tar. If he can get along without edge glue I plan to try it also. My two forward hull strakes and the entire transom are carefully fit with beveled edges and forced tight fits and so far they are clean. Fingers crossed.
 
Respectfully,
John

Coming along a treat, Gary! That is some 'bench' you have the frame components laid out on!

Gary,
 
Nice work on the frames... She's coming together very well.
 
As for the pictures.. after hitting "Attach", put the cursor where you want a photo and hit "Add to post" on the little thumbnail above "choose file".  Then you can type below it.

thanks to all of you for the kind comments,  and to those who hit the like button.     the work week is over.........playtime tomorrow   YIPPIE!!!!!!!  

Thanks for the likes and comments.  They are encouraging...  
 
 
 
Thanks Carl.  But if there's an error, I don't mind ripping things apart...  Ask my scrap box about that.   
 
 
Actually, Denis, the round up continues to sternpost, but the deck gets a lot narrower.   There's a rise in the planking according to the drawings but I'm currently one beam shy so I need to add that.  I'm still debating while getting set up to make deck planks.   Hahn simplified.  I like that philosophy but I also want it look right.  His decking is straight planks according the photos.  The French used wide amidships and then tapered them.  I studying the plans in the French monographs I have to see how and where they terminated the planking strakes.   At the stern, I'm thinking I can put a false deck from the last beam to the sternpost.   I'm still sorting out which will look better.  I'm not a 100% yet, but I feel like that's where I should be headed.   Maybe next ship will have all the bells and whistles and less simplification like carlings between the beams and knees.  
 
I don't fault Hahn.. I fault myself here.  There's still a learning curve going on.

you have been busy........the beams look great!   are you thinking that the planking will level it out,  by the time you reach the transom?  I wish I had more savvy with these types of ships......    but you've really done some nice work there  

John
First let me say thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed post, the wording and the pics are spot on.
I can see just what you are talking about, and you have made it so clear of how the 2 options are going to lay.
I am not a expert in planking different types of hauls, with that said I would have to go with Mark.
The second option does look like it will work out better.
The first looks like it is almost bent the wrong way.
The only other thing I can think of why it may be going in that direction is it looks like you didn't put in of take account for the garboard strake.
I am not even sure if your haul should have one.
Maybe Mark can shed some light on this, and how that would effect to laying out of the planks.
All I can say is I know I have not done it right, and to do it right takes a lot of planning. Once to do it right, I think it will be a breeze after that.
Like Chuck said you should have it all marked out so you can see it even before you cut the first piece of wood.
The next time I do a haul like you have I think I will either mark it all out and then maybe even use card stock for test planks.
Joe

John
First let me say thanks for taking the time to make such a detailed post, the wording and the pics are spot on.
I can see just what you are talking about, and you have made it so clear of how the 2 options are going to lay.
I am not a expert in planking different types of hauls, with that said I would have to go with Mark.
The second option does look like it will work out better.
The first looks like it is almost bent the wrong way.
The only other thing I can think of why it may be going in that direction is it looks like you didn't put in of take account for the garboard strake.
I am not even sure if your haul should have one.
Maybe Mark can shed some light on this, and how that would effect to laying out of the planks.
All I can say is I know I have not done it right, and to do it right takes a lot of planning. Once to do it right, I think it will be a breeze after that.
Like Chuck said you should have it all marked out so you can see it even before you cut the first piece of wood.
The next time I do a haul like you have I think I will either mark it all out and then maybe even use card stock for test planks.
Joe

Wow Mark, looks great. I certainly cant see any mistakes.
Sam

Allan,
 
What about fabric glue?  Some of them are waterproof and pretty durable as well as remaining flexible.  

John:  I think the second lining off looks like it will work best.  If your strakes are at least a half-plank wide at the stem and you don't have to twist the wood into a corkscrew to get it to lay right  I think you're golden!

I am having trouble uploading today, so this weeks work will come in several installments...  I am also having difficulty doing a narrative under each photo,
 
I am now all the way thru frame 4 as shown in the first photo.  The Keelson Knee is just shown fitted in place for now. 
 
The third photo highlights frames 4 and 5.  Note the notching of the chock on frame 4 that still needs to take place. I forgot to do this at the bench...
 
The top timber of frame 5 has a significant slant.  While this may look like an error, its actually to spec.  The slant allows room for a sweep port to be inserted.  There are many intentional irregularities with this ship that are historically accurate.  This is significant departure for me since I have built stylized models in the past that appeal to symmetry.  I now prefer the historically accurate models.  Interesting how our tastes and opinions on things evolve over time...
 
The last photo should actually be the first photo.  the forward frames are just sitting in place, awaiting spacers, final fitting and glue up.
 
The assembly line style of building the frames is certainly not for everyone, but it has greatly improved my efficiency and quality. 
 
You will also note the cross spauls that have been reinstalled.  This is a must in order to keep the shape.
 
As mentioned, I am bringing this ship to NRG in October (As well as my USB Eagle, also a scratch build in progress).  My goal with Naiad is to have the framing completed and faired, along with ribands, keelson, and chock bolts inserted. I estimate that will take me about 110 hours.
 
Best, G