slow2cool

316 Hours into the voyage.
 
Smooth sailing with the purchase of my new Grizzly Spindle Sander.  Its simply wonderful.  The more fairing done at the bench, the less that needs to be done in the shipyard.  Of course, you had better be on track with the patterns or undersizing timbers is a real reality.
 
Laid out on the Mustang are the remaining frames.  These have all been accounted for and tucked away until needed. 
 
The last photo shows the sizing of each frame.  You will note the different sided thickness of each frame as shown by the notching. 

It seems that the KWdG was adequately outfitted when I read Nils' post about the number of boats he must produce ... besides it's a German vessel and furthermore, IMHO, cannot be compared with the Titanic in build or purpose ...
 
Nils,
 
Very nice progress. Besides the stack of boats you need, you're nearly starting a production line of skylights ...

Great work Mark!

Owww ... Mark, you should take two measurements: One like you do now, and one where you flip over the pointed ends of your jig to be at the top, or put a block underneath the thickness of the beam. The latter will give you a different size in some cases, especially deep down in the hull. You can sand the angle on your beam to make it flush fit. Besides that, there is the curvature of the hull to take into account too, which implies four measures ...
 
It is easy to tell someone what to do, after the error is made, but your work does look great, even from this side of the globe!!! Well done.

Thanks as always for the likes and comments.
 
 
If I stare at something long enough, I'll usually realize what it is...  It's my mistake....  the last beam I have is 2-1/2" long.  On the drawing it's 3-1/2" long.  I think the drawing is looking from waterway to waterway which, if the beam is tapered or faired into the frames properly it would go past the clamp and end up being 3-1/2" long.  Not the end of the world... I may just shim out that area when I do the waterways and plank or I'll redo them.  I'm leaning towards a rework. I'm having my moments here wrapping my head around some of this.  
 
In my crude sketch... the black beam is how it looks now.  The red is how it should have been faired into the frame.]
 
 

No stupidity or errors on your behalf, at all, Mark!
 
She looks simply wonderful.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Beautiful . . .

Looks good, Mark. What do you mean by 'the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull'?

Thanks for the "likes" and commentary...  
 
Making progress.   The beams are in for the lower deck.  There's probably another couple that I'll need to put in once I figure out the shape at the bow and stern.  The bow, not so much, but the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull.  i think it's not at deck level... just has me scratching my head as I know the beams are all at the right height.
 
Anyway, I'm checking fore and main mast locations and then I'll be dropping a bit of string down the centerline to double check and pin down where I'll need the mizzen mast step, the three hatches, and the bowsprit step. I'm also plotting out the walls and cabins but won't get to far into that until the deck is planked.   Which... I'm hoping to get started on this week as soon as I can get the planks cut.  The actual next step with the waterways.  The wood has been selected (cherry) and the appropriate sized pieces selected.  
 
Here's pictures.   Feel free to point out any stupidity or errors on my part.  
 


 

Also what type of knot should I use for the robands? I can't find any good info on that.

Hi Bob,
 
that was also my thought at first......, but 20 boatstations = 20 winches, a very costy solution, gues there were many yards of ropeline on board, as well as shackles and "round the corner blocks" in order to also serve several lifeboats. I think Ben is right when he highlights the recovery perhaps even of maned lifeboats from sealevel
 
Nils

If the winch was for the lifeboats wouldn't there be one at each boat?
 
Bob

thanks for visiting the log Ben, you`re very welcome,....,
 
and thanks for your kind words....
 
yes, I have been looking for the purpose of those winches on the boats deck, and agree they must have been multi-purpose auxiliary.. for boats lowering / Hoisting
I have in the meantime found a pic showing one of these winches on the boatsdeck of the 1899 launched "SS. Hamburg", after WW1 serving for the US as  "USS Powhatan"   Two drums of same diameter for winding fore- and aft pulleys of a lifeboat. (pic kindly borowed from the web)
 
Nils
 

 
 

thank you very much Bill, Roger, and Greg,
 
and all the "likes"
 
Bill,
thank you for your suggestion to use slow curing resin, I`ll bear that in mind when I begin the boat casting....
 
Roger,
thanks to you, that tip is also very much appreciated, you make it sound so easy to make.....
 
Greg,
yes Greg, I was thinking of leaving the boats seating away, and had already made  a wooden cover (as canvas). A strong fender rope should go round the sheer. Perhaps I would take one or two boats only with drawn back covers, providing sight to the interior
 
Nils

Hi Grant
 
Thank you, work goes on again, the baby wants to get ready.............
 
Hi all again
 
Today I started with the preworks for the deck planking. First to do was to set the drilling for the steve tube, I could cut that through the basa wood with a simple piece of 7 mm brass tube. Then I started to remove the remains from the frames stands, when all are sawed off i can start with the last  balsa planks.
 
The hole for the steve tube is done, tube will be epoxyd in when the mahogany planks are done.


 
Removing of the frames stands

 
Regards, and thank you all again for your so many likes!
Gerhard
 
 

Welcome back Gerhard. Nice to see your Baby taking shape.

Juzek, thank you.
 
 
 
Pawel

Hi Denis
 
Well done! I like the trims around, makes the boat more "spicy"
 
Regards
Gerhard

John,
 
Continue the tic marks forward and aft.  You've established that you need 28 planks.   Use Chucks fan-tool to get the widths of the planks as you move forward and aft.  I'd use the second set with the battens for this.  I think in the long run you'll be happier.  
 
I would lay out and install the wales and probably the planks above them first to establish where you need to plank between the wales and the keel and then line out the hull.   The wales give the ship it's distinctive look.

I think edge-bent (or spiled) planks would look better, but as you've already discovered, walnut is a very splintery wood so you might run into trouble using it like that.
 
On the other hand, I have no idea which method is 'correct' for this ship, and whether that was part of the design of the model.

Continuing with the previous post, this line out scheme began with the mid strake positioned at plank 14, midway between the wale and keel, but rather than routing it forward at frame midpoints it was run strictly by eye, offered into what looked fair taking into account the wale and the keel. Strakes to define all four bands were run this time. 
 
Strakes in each band are always wider than half plank at the stem. I see no issues, so far, at the stern.
 

 

 

 

 

 
I would appreciate as many opinions as possible.
 
Respectfully,
John

This is the first to two consecutive posts, each describing a planking possibility. Kindly give opinions.
 
I am considering a different way than Chris's instruction on how to plank REVENGE. To do as he suggests begins with the wale plank, laid on approximately parallel to the deck sheer. Planks below the wale would then follow a path similar to this picture.
 

 
Looking at Chuck Passaro's CHEERFUL and studying his edge bending technique invites the thought of edge bent spile like planks where aft and particularly forward they more nearly parallel the wale as well as the keel. I am bending the planks as seen below to prevent wrinkling. Though Chuck has bent his dry, I found my wood cracked. Wetting it for a couple of minutes in hot water prevented that. I plan to further explore with boiling water. Once bent, I put the jig in the freezer to hasten cooling.
 

 
As I began to line out the hull, two possibilities presented themselves. I plan to post twice - once for each of the possibilities that I investigated. 
 
I used actual planks to define four bands. This enable me to more clearly visualize the actual fair lay and in particular what would happen at the stem.
 
This is the FIRST of the two posts and shows one of the explored possibilities.
 
I began by choosing the widest frame amidship. My 4mm planks will require 28 strakes to go from the lower edge of the wale (reference) plank to the keel. In the next photo the mid plank is shown. The strake is laying fair through the position for the 14th plank, half way between the wale and the keel. Looking at the two frame positions forward can be seen a pin hole at each representing the mid point between the wale and the keel.
 

 
This mid band strake was positioned at the stern to be the last strake approaching the post that is in a rounded position. The next plank would parallel the vertical part of the stern.
 

 
The mid point strake, already edge bent, continues forward half way between the wale and the keel. It can be seen converging with the wale in the next two pictures. 
 

 

 
At this point the plan to divide each frame into four equal widths began to look like the stem area was not going to work out well. The equal division of each frame into four equal width bands sounded reasonable but in reality I don't think it works. Should it if spiled?
 
I went on to a modified proposal that can be seen in the next post.
 
Respectfully,
John

Nils if you are going to resin cast you little lifeboats, don't be tempted to use the high speed setting kind. There are problems with the material setting too fast to allow air bubbles to escape. Use a slower setting resin. I discovered this while trying to make landing craft for a 1/192 Victory ship. The resin is a little expensive but when you need to make a quantity of things it works out pretty nice. Also you might want to check Shapeways for already printed 3D boats.    Bill in IdahoBeautiful work By The Way

thank you Martin,
 
I was soldering with my most powerful iron here, in order to get enough heat to the metal enabling and the solder flow. Was too anxious to use the gastorch so close to the painted parts....
 
Nils

Hi Glenn
 
There's no doubting the beauty of these old ships - seeing the decks take shape, only accentuates Heroine's beauty.
 
Wow, wow, wow; that's all I can say!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick