Keith_W

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

Very nice Al. Just a word of warning - on the unplanked side, I recommend that you extend the planking from the main deck further down by one plank. The channels for the deadeyes and the strops attach there. Study your plans carefully. As you can see from my build (picture below) the channels attach to the 3rd plank. Yours only goes down 2 planks.
 

 
(edit) also for your reference here is Dan Vadas' build. Notice that his channels attach to the 3rd plank also: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/gallery/image/1782-starboard/

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

Thank you for the link!
 
FWIW I don't see why it should offend anyone any more than the Spanish or French should be offended over Trafalgar, or the British should be offended for losing the War of Independence, etc.

Whilst I have been doing a little work on Mordaunt,I am holding back on pics for now.However I received another delivery of Pear(some is for Royal William).I had asked Dennis at Twigfolly.com,if he had a small chunk of Pear to carve the figurehead from and he said he would have a root about.The result is the massive Pear chunk for free with the rest of the order!!!!!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

As some of you know I had a dispute with a retailer over a Euromodel kit. The retailer never sent me anything and I had to get a refund from Paypal. Euromodel heard about this issue through Pete who runs their helpdesk and although Euromodel was in no way part of this dispute they offered me a discount on the kit as a compensation for my trouble with the retailer!!!!
 
This is really an example of extraordinaire customer care I never have experienced before, and it shows how much Euromodel values their customers.
 
Thank you Euromodel and thank you Pete.

I have been doing some research on 3D printers. I am planning to make some rail stanchions. Question is - do I feel like turning 100 of these on my lathe, or would it be easier to draw up a design on CAD and either buy a printer or get someone to print it for me?
 
I have looked around the market to see where 3D printers are at at the moment. There seem to be two main types which could be considered for home enthusiast. This is a quick run-down of the pros and cons I have learnt so far:
 
- SLA (Stereolithography). A plate is immersed in liquid resin, then spots on the resin are hardened by focusing a laser on it. When one layer is done, the plate is re-coated in resin and the process is repeated. When the print is done, the piece is removed from the plate (supposedly it needs to be chiselled off), washed in alcohol to remove excess resin, and supports trimmed off. Pros: extremely high resolution, in the order of 20-30 microns. Very fast. Very quiet. Cons: the printers are expensive (the cheapest seems to be the FormLabs, at $3800), the resin is expensive, and it is really messy. Also, larger sized printers are very expensive, but that won't matter to us because we are mostly after small size and precision.
 
- FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) / FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling). By far the more common type. A plastic filament is fed into a heated nozzle, which moves around and deposits layers of plastic, building up the piece layer by layer. Pros: more affordable, machines as cheap as $1k. Filaments are cheap and available in many colours and textures. Cons: relatively low resolution, the best I have seen are 100 micron. Also, most inexpensive FFF printers require assembly, or are very small companies that received Kickstarter funding (I am quite wary of those), and I have read quite a few reports of unreliable printers that - if they are not producing misshapen prints, they suffer from hardware failure.
 
There are a few other types of printer on the market but I have not listed them.
 
Also note it is NOT my intention to sound like an expert, I am merely listing things I have learnt so far to put up for discussion!
 
I would like to know if any members have ventured into 3D printing. It may be quite useful for making many copies of parts that we find annoying to fabricate. Going over my current build, I would use a 3D printer to make:
 
- stanchions
- window frames
- boats
- gun carriages and guns
- ship's stove
 
The number of potential applications seems fairly long, which is why I am thinking of buying a 3D printer for myself. Question - do people think that 3D printers are a mature enough technology for the non-enthusiast or professional market? Is 100 Micron resolution "good enough"?

Actually, that's the beauty of a 3D printer...you CAN make a lantern...with the wick holder or candle inside ! I suggest you check out the SLA 3D printers, as they currently can't be matched for print quality or size of print area in the same price range. I was pretty blown away by the fully made, very intricate Eiffel Tower and the Rook with the internal staircase that I looked at first hand ! Again, I have no connection to them, other than gone and had a look at the machine and samples, but frankly, FSL ( Full Spectrum Laser ) looks like one of the best machines in the under $3000 price range that I have seen. I may well be buying their SLA 3D laser printer myself.
 
Joe

I have been giving a great deal of thought as to how to proceed with this build. I have now completed the first planking up to the main deck level. To my immense relief, the planks are still straight, which means that each deck installed so far is exactly parallel with respect to the others.
 
Other builders of the RW on MSW have decided to continue the first planking upwards, but I am nervous about doing this. Any planking above the main deck is unsupported by frames, and thus potentially vulnerable if the ship is turned upside down.
 
I have therefore decided to start my second planking at the waterline and work downwards and upwards. These photos show that the waterline has been drawn with a thick black marker.
 
If you look closely, you will note that I am using pear strips which I bought from Jeff at Hobbymill for the planks above the waterline, and the Euromodel supplied strips below the waterline. The reason is to save cost by saving the expensive pear strips for planking which will actually be visible. The planks below the waterline will be hidden by white paint.
 

 

 
(EDIT) I forgot to mention - the 2013 edition of "SHIPWRIGHT" magazine has a feature by Mr. Yankovitch who scratchbuilt the 1:36 scale Royal William. It is well worth reading, he talks about his technique and how he overcame various problems. I bought my copy on Kindle. Amazon link is here:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Shipwright-2013-International-Maritime-Modelmaking-ebook/dp/B00GZ8EPPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416144214&sr=1-1&keywords=shipwright+2013

I have been giving a great deal of thought as to how to proceed with this build. I have now completed the first planking up to the main deck level. To my immense relief, the planks are still straight, which means that each deck installed so far is exactly parallel with respect to the others.
 
Other builders of the RW on MSW have decided to continue the first planking upwards, but I am nervous about doing this. Any planking above the main deck is unsupported by frames, and thus potentially vulnerable if the ship is turned upside down.
 
I have therefore decided to start my second planking at the waterline and work downwards and upwards. These photos show that the waterline has been drawn with a thick black marker.
 
If you look closely, you will note that I am using pear strips which I bought from Jeff at Hobbymill for the planks above the waterline, and the Euromodel supplied strips below the waterline. The reason is to save cost by saving the expensive pear strips for planking which will actually be visible. The planks below the waterline will be hidden by white paint.
 

 

 
(EDIT) I forgot to mention - the 2013 edition of "SHIPWRIGHT" magazine has a feature by Mr. Yankovitch who scratchbuilt the 1:36 scale Royal William. It is well worth reading, he talks about his technique and how he overcame various problems. I bought my copy on Kindle. Amazon link is here:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Shipwright-2013-International-Maritime-Modelmaking-ebook/dp/B00GZ8EPPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416144214&sr=1-1&keywords=shipwright+2013

I have been giving a great deal of thought as to how to proceed with this build. I have now completed the first planking up to the main deck level. To my immense relief, the planks are still straight, which means that each deck installed so far is exactly parallel with respect to the others.
 
Other builders of the RW on MSW have decided to continue the first planking upwards, but I am nervous about doing this. Any planking above the main deck is unsupported by frames, and thus potentially vulnerable if the ship is turned upside down.
 
I have therefore decided to start my second planking at the waterline and work downwards and upwards. These photos show that the waterline has been drawn with a thick black marker.
 
If you look closely, you will note that I am using pear strips which I bought from Jeff at Hobbymill for the planks above the waterline, and the Euromodel supplied strips below the waterline. The reason is to save cost by saving the expensive pear strips for planking which will actually be visible. The planks below the waterline will be hidden by white paint.
 

 

 
(EDIT) I forgot to mention - the 2013 edition of "SHIPWRIGHT" magazine has a feature by Mr. Yankovitch who scratchbuilt the 1:36 scale Royal William. It is well worth reading, he talks about his technique and how he overcame various problems. I bought my copy on Kindle. Amazon link is here:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Shipwright-2013-International-Maritime-Modelmaking-ebook/dp/B00GZ8EPPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416144214&sr=1-1&keywords=shipwright+2013

INDEX OF PLANS
 

 
Sheet 1: Overview of ship
 

 
Sheet 2: Masts and Yards
 

 
Sheet 3: Decorations
 
   
 
Sheets 4, 5, 6, 7: General construction details
 

 
Sheet 8: Longitudinal and Cross section (for scratch builders) 
 
 
 
Sheets 9, 10: Deck furniture
 
 
 
Sheets 11, 12: Standing rigging
 
  
 
Sheets 13, 14, 15: Running rigging
 

 
Sheet 16: Mast and yard details
 

 
Sheet 17: Ships plan

I have been doing some research on 3D printers. I am planning to make some rail stanchions. Question is - do I feel like turning 100 of these on my lathe, or would it be easier to draw up a design on CAD and either buy a printer or get someone to print it for me?
 
I have looked around the market to see where 3D printers are at at the moment. There seem to be two main types which could be considered for home enthusiast. This is a quick run-down of the pros and cons I have learnt so far:
 
- SLA (Stereolithography). A plate is immersed in liquid resin, then spots on the resin are hardened by focusing a laser on it. When one layer is done, the plate is re-coated in resin and the process is repeated. When the print is done, the piece is removed from the plate (supposedly it needs to be chiselled off), washed in alcohol to remove excess resin, and supports trimmed off. Pros: extremely high resolution, in the order of 20-30 microns. Very fast. Very quiet. Cons: the printers are expensive (the cheapest seems to be the FormLabs, at $3800), the resin is expensive, and it is really messy. Also, larger sized printers are very expensive, but that won't matter to us because we are mostly after small size and precision.
 
- FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) / FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling). By far the more common type. A plastic filament is fed into a heated nozzle, which moves around and deposits layers of plastic, building up the piece layer by layer. Pros: more affordable, machines as cheap as $1k. Filaments are cheap and available in many colours and textures. Cons: relatively low resolution, the best I have seen are 100 micron. Also, most inexpensive FFF printers require assembly, or are very small companies that received Kickstarter funding (I am quite wary of those), and I have read quite a few reports of unreliable printers that - if they are not producing misshapen prints, they suffer from hardware failure.
 
There are a few other types of printer on the market but I have not listed them.
 
Also note it is NOT my intention to sound like an expert, I am merely listing things I have learnt so far to put up for discussion!
 
I would like to know if any members have ventured into 3D printing. It may be quite useful for making many copies of parts that we find annoying to fabricate. Going over my current build, I would use a 3D printer to make:
 
- stanchions
- window frames
- boats
- gun carriages and guns
- ship's stove
 
The number of potential applications seems fairly long, which is why I am thinking of buying a 3D printer for myself. Question - do people think that 3D printers are a mature enough technology for the non-enthusiast or professional market? Is 100 Micron resolution "good enough"?

I have been giving a great deal of thought as to how to proceed with this build. I have now completed the first planking up to the main deck level. To my immense relief, the planks are still straight, which means that each deck installed so far is exactly parallel with respect to the others.
 
Other builders of the RW on MSW have decided to continue the first planking upwards, but I am nervous about doing this. Any planking above the main deck is unsupported by frames, and thus potentially vulnerable if the ship is turned upside down.
 
I have therefore decided to start my second planking at the waterline and work downwards and upwards. These photos show that the waterline has been drawn with a thick black marker.
 
If you look closely, you will note that I am using pear strips which I bought from Jeff at Hobbymill for the planks above the waterline, and the Euromodel supplied strips below the waterline. The reason is to save cost by saving the expensive pear strips for planking which will actually be visible. The planks below the waterline will be hidden by white paint.
 

 

 
(EDIT) I forgot to mention - the 2013 edition of "SHIPWRIGHT" magazine has a feature by Mr. Yankovitch who scratchbuilt the 1:36 scale Royal William. It is well worth reading, he talks about his technique and how he overcame various problems. I bought my copy on Kindle. Amazon link is here:
 
http://www.amazon.com/Shipwright-2013-International-Maritime-Modelmaking-ebook/dp/B00GZ8EPPM/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1416144214&sr=1-1&keywords=shipwright+2013

I have been doing some research on 3D printers. I am planning to make some rail stanchions. Question is - do I feel like turning 100 of these on my lathe, or would it be easier to draw up a design on CAD and either buy a printer or get someone to print it for me?
 
I have looked around the market to see where 3D printers are at at the moment. There seem to be two main types which could be considered for home enthusiast. This is a quick run-down of the pros and cons I have learnt so far:
 
- SLA (Stereolithography). A plate is immersed in liquid resin, then spots on the resin are hardened by focusing a laser on it. When one layer is done, the plate is re-coated in resin and the process is repeated. When the print is done, the piece is removed from the plate (supposedly it needs to be chiselled off), washed in alcohol to remove excess resin, and supports trimmed off. Pros: extremely high resolution, in the order of 20-30 microns. Very fast. Very quiet. Cons: the printers are expensive (the cheapest seems to be the FormLabs, at $3800), the resin is expensive, and it is really messy. Also, larger sized printers are very expensive, but that won't matter to us because we are mostly after small size and precision.
 
- FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) / FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling). By far the more common type. A plastic filament is fed into a heated nozzle, which moves around and deposits layers of plastic, building up the piece layer by layer. Pros: more affordable, machines as cheap as $1k. Filaments are cheap and available in many colours and textures. Cons: relatively low resolution, the best I have seen are 100 micron. Also, most inexpensive FFF printers require assembly, or are very small companies that received Kickstarter funding (I am quite wary of those), and I have read quite a few reports of unreliable printers that - if they are not producing misshapen prints, they suffer from hardware failure.
 
There are a few other types of printer on the market but I have not listed them.
 
Also note it is NOT my intention to sound like an expert, I am merely listing things I have learnt so far to put up for discussion!
 
I would like to know if any members have ventured into 3D printing. It may be quite useful for making many copies of parts that we find annoying to fabricate. Going over my current build, I would use a 3D printer to make:
 
- stanchions
- window frames
- boats
- gun carriages and guns
- ship's stove
 
The number of potential applications seems fairly long, which is why I am thinking of buying a 3D printer for myself. Question - do people think that 3D printers are a mature enough technology for the non-enthusiast or professional market? Is 100 Micron resolution "good enough"?

Greetings all
Well here I go with my second build, which was not my chosen build. My chosen ship was the Pegasus by Victory models after following blue ensigns cracking build. I received the pegasus for my birthday in July and was ready to start the build on the completion of my first build. The Admiral was chatting to a friend who came to visit and was telling her about my late father who built lots of model ships, and saying how clever he was. She said to her friend the last two ships he built were galleons and and he built them side by side. She turned to me and said I don't want you to build that ship you have now, I want you to build a galleon. So after looking at the kits on CMB and photos she along with her friend decided the Royal Caroline was nice. It was not worth arguing so I am now building the Royal Galleon Caroline. I made a start a few weeks ago and have just started the first planking, and things are going ok. And at the minute this will be a straight foward build, but we will see what's what when the planking is completed. There are some really cracking builds going on here with all you enthusiastics, so I should not be lost for advice or help if needed. Well here we go we are off and running. Here's a few photos of my Galleon. DAVID

FILE FASTENERS (and BAND-AIDS) – To make 1/16 scale cutlasses as detail for my Bounty Launch, I used some file fasteners, plus a few other common items.

 
You will need: File Fastener; Piece of brass strip; Piece of tubing (plastic/metal); A small, metal bead; Strip of aluminium foil; A band-aid (cloth variety).

 
Flatten the file fastener. I put mine between two metal rulers and then hammered along the length. With the ones I used, there was a brand indentation which could not be completely hammered out.
(At a casual glance, it almost looks like a Royal Crest !!).

 
Cut out the rough shape of your sword. Bear in mind to leave enough for the “Tang”. This is the part extending back from the blade which will later form the interior of the handle.

 

 
The Dremel tool makes the shaping process a little easier …

 
Cut a short piece of tubing to become the Grip. This fits over the Tang. It needs to be approx. 3mm shorter, allowing the tip of the Tang to stick out …


 
This part is entirely optional, but I chose to dry brush my blades with, first, a metallic chrome, and then a matt gloss.

 
Cut short pieces of the brass strip to make the Hand Guard. This piece will need to be approx. twice the length of the Tang. Drill a hole at each end (approx 0.5cm in), and then round them off, using the Dremel.
(A tip: clip the corners with nail-trimmers first.)
 
Next up, bend the brass strips over a suitable tool (I used my hand-drill) to form the Guard.
 
Here are all the pieces set out and almost ready to begin …

 
But first, make some strips of aluminium foil. Fold them over onto themselves a few times, to give them extra strength. These strips will become the Rain Guards on your swords (but, more importantly, they will serve to make the join between hilt and blade look much tidier).

 
WARNING: It can be a bit fiddly putting everything together. Test-fitting of pieces before applying glue is highly recommended to ensure that nothing breaks and needs to be re-made.
 
Apply small amount of Epoxy glue to the Tang and top part of blade. Thread Tang through hole in one end of the Guard. Slide the Grip into place. Make sure the Tang protrudes from the other end, and then poke it through the top hole of the Guard.
I used a pair of pliers to grip the two ends of the Guard together whilst the glue dries. You will want to apply just enough force to keep the Guard flush against the ends of the Grip piece.
 
Quickly, before the glue can dry, place the small bead onto the end of the Tang, now protruding through the top of the Guard. This becomes the Pommel (or Peen Block), holding everything together.
 
It should look something like this …

 
Wrap an aluminium strip around your blade (two turns is enough), sliding it up against the bottom of the Guard to ensure it is flush ...

 
Once the epoxy has set, take the cloth band-aid. Cut a short strip to the length of the Grip. Carefully wrap this around the tubing piece.
(NOTE: Originally, I was going to wrap cotton around the Grip. But, I have been desperately trying to find an excuse to feature Band-Aids in Kit-Basher’s.)
 
And here they are, together with the drawing which inspired them …

 
EDIT: The rain guards are most probably NOT historically accurate for basic cutlasses. 

After spending a few hours scouring the net,I have eventually found a supplier of super small drills.I have purchesed two 0.18mm drills for adding the grating nailing.These drills have double stepped down shanks enabling them to fit in the 3.2mm Proxxon collet.I am certain a chuck would have far too much 'run out' to drill these holes.I intend to use them solely in the miller.They are very expensive at around ten pounds each,but are carbide and hopefully will last for a large number of holes.I have ordered a reel of 0.15mm copper wire for the nails.For scale purists,this equates to 9mm full size,so isn't miles away.
If anyone is in the market for some mega small drills(yes they do smaller ones than these   )the website is
 
http://www.drill-service.co.uk/index.asp
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

This past week, Our Hero hath continued to work on the various detail items to be included.
And here, he hath madeth a list:

 
Indeed, just this very day he didst PhotoShop a tick unto the top o' the list upon his return from the faraway land of Nippon where he didst journey to learn the ancient secrets of sword forging.
 
“I shalt not repeateth myself here,” CaptainSteve was heard to mutter. “For I hath detailed in the Kit-Basher’s forum me method fer making these."
So, please, clicketh here to check it out.
 
Now, as we know, Mr Bligh was not the most personable of people. Indeed, ‘tis known that even amongst the loyalists in the Launch with him, only a handful of men could be relied upon. Thusly, Our Hero hast reasoned that Bligh would’ve been certain to keep all the weapons onboard within easy reach.
 
“Hence I shalt most probably be placing the four cutlasses (and two native spears) that hath been documented up Bligh’s end of the Launch,” CaptainSteve didst explain.
 
Re-visiting the tool-chest, for now, three of the cutlasses have been lazily placed inside.
 
“Thee final one couldst well be chopped into the edge of one of the rear benches,” our Hero didst suggest. “Mayhaps next to where ol’ Bligh hisself be sitting.”

Here is the beginning of the main yard.  There was not as much progess over the weekend as I'd hoped.  Doing the octagonal centre piece turned out to be not as difficult as I first thought and it turned out quite well.  Having more suitable tools would have helped however in making the edges more defined.  Once I had worked out the dimensions of each side of the octogon, I used Tamiya tape to delineate the edges, then used an Exacto knife to plane the surface flat. (The little plane I bought has proven to be the most useless tool in the box.)
 

 

 

Once the octagonal section was done  I used my Proxxon lathe to taper each end.  The tapering was done in stages. For example I first measured 40 mm along the yard from the end of the octagonal section, referred to the plan to see the thickness of the yard at that point, and tapered the intervening distance appropriately. I then did to same for the next 40 mm ......  The following picture shows about 80mm tapered.

 
Here is the (semi) finished yard tapered at both ends (the tapers turned out to be pretty well spot on to my pleasant surprise).  The octagonal section does not show up well in the photo unfortunately
 

Hi Pops, I think the various build logs (including mine) will give you good pointers for things to watch out for. I'll be following your build. Curious to see what you do with this
 
BTW, if you plan to vary your rigging from the plans, you will need to get yourself more rope.

I see that your kit has the same problem as mine. Bulkheads "C" and "D" do not reach all the way down to the level of the false keel. I had to shim these prior to bevelling. I can also see the the top of bulkhead "F" does not sit level with bulkheads B-E. Same with mine

Hi
 
Well I have dived into the RW box.
 
I have dry fitted the frames, some are a bit loose and will need packing out ( about 0.50 x 5mm ).
 
Denis.

Surprise had a rounded forecastle and chase ports. Modified the kit.