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John Fox III

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  1. The experiments continued with finishing the colored planking on the second hull. The keel, stem and stern posts were added and covered with the copper colored card stock as well. The entire hull was then coated several times with thinned varnish. The following photos show the hull as it stands now. The majority of my time has been spent making the yards for the masts. It was found that laminating black construction paper worked out the best for their construction. Using liberal amounts of CA glue to laminate the paper, including soaking the outside of the layered
  2. Greetings Roger, The C. Reiss coal company was situated in Sheboygan, so perhaps they were used to unload coal there. There was still active coal unloading at least until I was a kid there, 1950's. There were huge piles of coal and a modern unloading crane system then. Not sure what the coal was used for, perhaps heating. Sheboygan was a very active port for Lake Michigan for many years in it's earlier history. Thanks for the reply, at least I can look for something specific, i.e. Brown Hoists. BTW, there were several high end furniture manufacturers in Sheboygan very early and again
  3. Greetings, Hope this is the right place to ask. I was looking at photos on a history site for my hometown of Sheboygan Wisconsin and saw these unloading cranes in the background. The dates seem to be the mid to late 1800's, unloading sailing ships, probably lumber transports. I was interested in more information on them, possibly for model building. Any help would be appreciated. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. Thanks Allan! The sails for the model were made from some old, and stained, lamp shades. I don't know what material they were made from, but they looked the right color. I glued strips of folded over vellum drawing paper along all the sail edges, to keep them from fraying and adding strength to the points where holes were drilled to attach the mast and boom rings and the rings for the forestay on the fore sail. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Work on the card/paper models continued with finishing up the masts and bowsprit/jib boom. The process for making the top and topgallant masts was similar to the work involved with making the lower masts. Various sized rods and tubes were wrapped with brown paper, using a tube or rod of the appropriate size to make the final paper tube a bit larger than necessary. The next steps were to sand the glued paper tubes to the proper size and shape. This work was very tedious as the CA glue applied to the outside of the tubing only saturated the paper for a few layers. As the sanding reached those un
  6. Thanks Kev! I do try! <Grin> I've always been fascinated by the sandbagger yachts, as a small boat sailor they seem intimidating with so much sail. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. The next item on the Whistle Blower agenda was making up the gratings for the cockpit floor. I used some card stock from a manila folder, which I stained to make it a bit darker brown. I cut the stock into strips just a bit under 1/32" wide, a lot of strips. I then made up a jig from aluminum and thin wood strips to hold the card stock strips at set distances apart. The stock strips were about 3" long and fed into the jig so that about 1/4" stuck out. I then slid another stock strip under the strips in the jig, used a metal rule placed just beyond the single strip, to hold the jig strips down
  8. Thanks Chris! Very informative and interesting topic. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Once the planking was completed a slot was cut in the paper hull using the gap in the outer keel as location for this slot. Drill bits and pin vice were used for location, and a X-acto knife and #11 blade used to clean up the slot from inside the hull. A piece of maple veneer cut to fit the length of the slot, but long enough to extend well beyond the keel below and above the inside of the hull. This piece was inserted into the slot as a locator for installing the inner keel piece. The photos will show two different inner keel pieces, the maple one was used on the first hull,
  10. This is a build log of my attempts to build a 1:96 model of the sandbagger Whistle Blower II. The primary reason for building this model was to test out whether my paper mache method for building miniature ship's boats could be used to build the foundation for hulls of larger models. I will start with a description of my ship's boat hull methodology, by utilizing cigarette papers and thinned PVA glue. Most of my ship and boat modeling has been of miniatures, anything from 1:200 to 1:1200 scales. At those scales making realistic ship's boat hulls with adequate details is fairly
  11. It may very well finish up as a completed model, I just don't know that yet. All I can do is keep trying and see how things work out. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. See the written portion and photos above, it explains and shows how the squared portion of the masts, at the doublings, is made. I am not writing up these experiments to excite interest in card modeling, in my experience many people don't think something is possible in modeling. I've built literally 100's of miniature ship models over 40 years as a professional, and am at a point where I experiment with different things just to see what is possible. I am very determined, and usually don't give up until I've exhausted everything I can think of to make any part from any materials. I only post my
  13. Continuing with my work on experiments in cardboard/paper modeling..... Work on the second hull continued with the start of a first layer of planking. This time I used well saturated cardboard that was thinner than that used on the first hull. These planks were stiffer, but also much more brittle. I also changed things up a little by using a white card stock, also saturated with thinned poly varnish, to delineate the waterline. The following photos show this work in progress. One thing to note is that this time I did not fill in the bow and stern areas with solid card s
  14. Before continuing with this build article I would like to review some of what I've learned, and how it affects the work as it progresses. First of all I have learned that I need to soak/saturate the card stock from packaging much better. Originally I only used multiple painted coats of thinned poly varnish to do this work. I was only saturating the uncolored side, which is in effect sealed off by the printing. I have since learned to sand the colored side of the card stock, using 320 grit sandpaper and a small wood block, to roughen up the surface and remove as much of the sealed surface as po
  15. Greetings All, The work on the card and paper clipper model continued with quite a few more sealing and sanding, with small amounts of Bondo. Once I had a decent hull I made up the keel, stem and stern posts out of multiple layers of board. After reading more online about card models I learned to saturate the card stock with thinned down poly varnish, in order to make it stiffer and less prone to fraying when sanding. It also made cutting a wee bit harder, but worth the effort as it shapes up nicer when saturated. I did this by using a large art paint b
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