Jump to content

John Fox III

Members
  • Posts

    33
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

516 profile views
  1. I've recently had need of some tiny wooden fake blocks for a 1:92 scale model of a ship from the early 1800's. A few photos of well over 100 single/double/triple block are attached. They are made from rectangular sticks of apple wood, the stropping groove is made on two sides with a triangular miniature file. The hole[s] are drilled, then the end near the holes finished off with fine sandpaper. The end was then cut off, and that end shaped with sandpaper while being held in a very fine tweezer. A second tweezer with teeth was used to hold the block with the holes up, and the drill bit in a pin vice was used to cut the grooves for the rigging lines. The blocks in the photos are sitting on top of a US dime, about 3/4" in diameter. There is a rule in the second pic for size. They amount to around 6", 10" and 12" at scale. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  2. Personally I use QCAD for plan drafting. It is limited to 2D drawing, but I can import .jpg/.jpeg files of scans of printed plans and trace them. They used to have a free version, not sure if they still do, but I only paid $40 US for the full version. It is similar in use to AutoCAD, but vastly cheaper. As with most CAD programs, it takes some getting used to, but if you've ever used a CAD program, or spent time with pencil/pen and paper to do drafting it's quit easy. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  3. C. The bolt rope goes around, stitched to, the entire perimeter of the sail, top/bottom and both sides. Basically it completely surrounds the sails, as Allan says it is stitched to the outside perimeter. The line you outlined above is just part of that bolt rope. Allan Simply make a loop of line as long as the perimeter of the sails, adding blocks where necessary to run rigging if there was a real sail. Unfortunately, no photos as when I did make larger scale models without sails I had a very old, limited digital camera and only have entire model shots. At the top edge, i.e. at the yard, the bare bolt rope can be laid along the yard and wrapped as if there was a sail, or attached to the jack stay if the yard had them, just as if there were a sail attached to the bolt rope. For jib sails it's the same, add blocks for the sheet lines and uplift/downhaul lines at the bolt rope corners, plus rings or lines tying the bolt rope to the stays. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  4. There is a bolt rope attached to the outside perimeter of sails, to which blocks and lines were attached. When I built models without sails I added just the bolt rope, which allowed me to include all the sail rigging to the model. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  5. Greetings Seahorse, Very impressive! I just finished doing some experimenting with card stock modeling, but could do nothing as impressive as your work, congratulations on a super well done model! Even more impressive is that you designed it all yourself. Are you using some sort of software like Delftship or Freeship? Reason I ask is that you have worked out all the planking strips to such precision. I tried using those myself, but could not get good enough results. Thanks for sharing your impressive work! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  6. Thanks Crhis, glad you liked it! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  7. My work on experimenting with card/paper model ship building continued with finishing up the second hull, the one with colored card stock second planking. The hull was cut free from the building board by slicing through the bulkheads at the top of the bulwarks. A simpler stand for the hull was made from blue colored card stock. The following photos show the freed second hull in the stand. The photos above show that I also added card stock blocking at the extreme bow and locations for the 3 masts. The multiple longitudinal bulkheads definitely define the deck areas much better than the first hull in my opinion. Work progressed with cutting down the interior edges of the bulwarks, removing the excess stock that was included in the bulkheads to make the hull more stable during planking. I used several tools that I built, made up from pieces of 1/16" interior diameter brass tubing and pieces cut from a single edged razor blade, with wooden handles made from maple. I used a Dremel moto tool with a cut-off wheel to cut the razor blade pieces of various widths at the cutting end. I shaped the other end into shanks that would fit into the brass tubing, then slid them in and glued them in place. These miniature chisels work nicely, and I've used them on many models in the past. The photo above shows how the interior planking of the bulwarks on the first model's hull turned out. I was not happy with these results, the uneven run was the result of not quite having faired the bulkheads properly, and partly due to the miniature clothes pins used to clamp the single piece planking in place. I decided that on the second hull I would experiment in ways to improve these problems. I ended up filling in the gaps between bulkheads with card stock before final sanding the bulkhead interior sanding. This definitely helped even things out, and kept the clamping devices from indenting the interior planking pieces. I did the same thing for the stern of the fore castle deck and fore face of the quarter deck as well. The following photos show this work. I then proceeded to cut away the tops of the bulkheads above my blocking. I decided that with the double layer of planking, the bulwarks would be thick enough with just a single layer of card stock glued inside. The next work was to cut and glue the white interior planking. This was a process of using paper to make templates and then transferring those outlines to the card stock and cutting. These strips and pieces were then glued in place. The results were much better than the first hull at this point. I also drilled the holes for the masts. The following photos show this work. Work continued on this second hull with making paper templates of all the decks. These were traced on stained white card stock and stained white paper with planking lines drawn on it. All of these parts were cut out and fitted to the hull, to make sure they fit properly. I then stained more white card stock, traced the deck parts and cut out some waterways for the model. I was not happy with the way these waterways looked, they were a bit too wide and attempting to cut or sand them thinner just didn't work. I decided to remake the waterways by staining a piece of white paper and then gluing them to card stock and cutting them out. These looked much better, but are still probably a bit too wide for this scale. The decks were then glued to the hull. The following photos show this work, the waterways photo shows the first ones made, I simply forgot to photograph the final waterways. The most challenging work on this second model hull was my next work. I used black card stock to make the cap rail for the hull, in a single piece. I placed the card stock on the top of the model, held it in place with a stiff piece of thick cardboard pressing tightly enough to follow the entire curve of the top of the bulwarks. I traced the outline of the bulwarks onto the stock and cut it out. I used a small compass to then traced a line 1/16" inside the outer edge of the stock. The difficult part was to cut out this inside edge as carefully as I could. I can say that it took 3 attempts to get past this last step, as noted above with the waterways it is nearly impossible to re-cut or sand this thin card stock if any spots were too wide. I did use a black magic marker on the cap rails edges, as this stock has a white interior. The waterways and cap rail were then glued onto the hull. The results are shown in the next photos. At this point I believe I will be ending my card stock and paper modeling efforts. I found it very interesting, and in some cases rewarding, to have attempted this work. My personal conclusions would be that I definitely would rather work with wood, it's more stable and easier to "work" than card stock. I was surprised at how well some things worked, such as making up the masts and yards. But during building and fitting to the second hull I have already broken several of the yards. Saturated construction paper is just too brittle in the end, as I related earlier. If I were to attempt any more card stock modeling I would most definitely use "solid" card stock, this stock has the color saturated through it's interior and not just on the outside faces like the stock I used. I also would probably not hesitate to use paint, or color printed detailing, on any further modeling of this type. I also learned more about bulkhead model work than I had previously known. Making the plans for a bulkhead model from a set of lines plans, using QCAD software, is interesting work, and these card stock models a nice way to test out my methodology. As a parting shot, I did make up the chain plates for the model, but being made of saturated construction paper they were so brittle that I did not bother to add them to the hull. Thanks for your patience in reading my experimentation in card stock modeling. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  8. Greetings Tim, You are more than welcome! Glad the info was of some use to you. I've used this style of block making for at least two modern boats. First is the Morris Linda 28 "Shearwater", which was inserted into a street light bulb in pieces and assembled inside, hence the loose rigging lines as they can only be tightened up when the model is completely reassembled. The second is a modern copy of a famous sandbagger that won many races on Lake Geneva in Wisconsin. There is a part of a dime visible in the Shearwater closeup for size comparison. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  9. Greetings Tim, Not sure if you could make them small enough for your purposes, but I've made the ones in the photo below quite easily. The metal used was .01 brass, cut as pictured, then filed and sanded into shape. The sheaves of these blocks are small slices the insulation from very fine electrical wire, drilled out to fit a piece of wire. The thicker wire was cut to length, then pushed into the holes in the brass with the sheave in between. A tiny dab of super glue was used to hold them together. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  10. Greetings druxey, Thanks for the kudo! I have been building sub miniature ship in bottle and light bulb models for over 30 years, using solid carved basswood hulls and all wood and styrene parts. The miniature chain method was developed for those models. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  11. Greetings Tim, Glad you find the build interesting! It's a bit frustrating learning techniques that work with card stock, lots of attempts at making parts that did not work before finding ways that did work. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  12. The experiments continued with finishing the colored planking on the second hull. The keel, stem and stern posts were added and covered with the copper colored card stock as well. The entire hull was then coated several times with thinned varnish. The following photos show the hull as it stands now. The majority of my time has been spent making the yards for the masts. It was found that laminating black construction paper worked out the best for their construction. Using liberal amounts of CA glue to laminate the paper, including soaking the outside of the layered pieces. From that point the laminated parts were treated much as I would making yards out of wood. I first sanded them into a square cross section as thick as the center of the yard, then slightly tapered the pieces on either end. Then sanded the yard into a hexagonal cross section throughout. Finally sanding the yard blank round in cross section. As with most of the other paper/card construction, it was necessary occasionally to apply a bit more CA glue when an unsaturated area was encountered. I also noticed that the laminated construction paper was a bit more brittle than most woods, so care was taken. All the upper yards used a simple fitting glued to them in order to attach them to the masts with a bit of fine thread. The crossjack and course yards were attached using a hanging bracket arrangement which was as close as I could get, at the scale and using the material, to what was shown on the plans. I also used two tiny pieces of brass wire in making the brackets, which allow those yards to swing partway around the masts. The final pieces to these yard hangers was fake chain, which was made from 8/0 fly tying thread. The fake chain was made by tying double overhand knot in the center of a length of thread around a #80 drill bit, which was fitted shank side down into a length of wood. The drill bit was then pulled up and removed from the thread loop. A length of the same thread was then tied through the loop and extended down the length of the wood, where it was held mildly tightly with a rubber band wrapped around both wood and length of thread. The thread was then pulled away from the reinserted drill bit, to keep the loop directly opposite the bit while tying a second double overhand knot. It was impossible to keep tying these knots exactly opposite each other, so the fake chain looks a bit "squiggly" when just laying there. It does look fairly realistic when pulled tightly. The fake chain was tied, with a small piece of thread through the first loop, to a small wire eye bolt. The eye bolt was made by twisting a piece of extremely thin wire around a #80 drill bit, using a forceps to twist until the wire broke. This eye bolt was glued into a hole drilled just below the mast top. The thread chain was then wrapped around the center of the yard, and a second small thread piece was inserted through loops in the chain twice. It took a bit of practice to choose the right loops to pass this thread through so that when a knot was tied into the thread it pulled to chain tightly around the yard center. The knots in the two threads were glued and the excess thread cut and removed. The following photos show the pieces and results of this portion of my experimenting. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  13. Greetings Roger, The C. Reiss coal company was situated in Sheboygan, so perhaps they were used to unload coal there. There was still active coal unloading at least until I was a kid there, 1950's. There were huge piles of coal and a modern unloading crane system then. Not sure what the coal was used for, perhaps heating. Sheboygan was a very active port for Lake Michigan for many years in it's earlier history. Thanks for the reply, at least I can look for something specific, i.e. Brown Hoists. BTW, there were several high end furniture manufacturers in Sheboygan very early and again until I was a teen in Sheboygan. Also, at least one of the photos is accurate in location, other buildings in photo supply this information. Thanks again! Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  14. Greetings, Hope this is the right place to ask. I was looking at photos on a history site for my hometown of Sheboygan Wisconsin and saw these unloading cranes in the background. The dates seem to be the mid to late 1800's, unloading sailing ships, probably lumber transports. I was interested in more information on them, possibly for model building. Any help would be appreciated. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
  15. Thanks Allan! The sails for the model were made from some old, and stained, lamp shades. I don't know what material they were made from, but they looked the right color. I glued strips of folded over vellum drawing paper along all the sail edges, to keep them from fraying and adding strength to the points where holes were drilled to attach the mast and boom rings and the rings for the forestay on the fore sail. Anchor's A Weigh! John Fox III
×
×
  • Create New...