Bob Blarney

If the parts fit together well, then I'd guess that little clamping pressure is needed - maybe not much more than clothespins.
 
I'd go with the K&S brass (easy to find too) - homecenter aluminum is too soft, and while steel is more than plenty strong it is more difficult to work.  A lubricant such as Tap Magic will make drilling and tapping of metal significantly easier, or 3in1 or other light oil will help too. Also, hardwood such as maple can be drilled and tapped too, and the threads can be strengthened with CA glue.
 
Guitarbuilders also make spring "C" clamps with PVC pipe of different diameters - just cut off a width and saw a slot to make it.
 
Here's a clever idea:  https://sharing-know-how.blogspot.com/2015/04/clothes-pins-into-modelers-clamps.html

If the parts fit together well, then I'd guess that little clamping pressure is needed - maybe not much more than clothespins.
 
I'd go with the K&S brass (easy to find too) - homecenter aluminum is too soft, and while steel is more than plenty strong it is more difficult to work.  A lubricant such as Tap Magic will make drilling and tapping of metal significantly easier, or 3in1 or other light oil will help too. Also, hardwood such as maple can be drilled and tapped too, and the threads can be strengthened with CA glue.
 
Guitarbuilders also make spring "C" clamps with PVC pipe of different diameters - just cut off a width and saw a slot to make it.
 
Here's a clever idea:  https://sharing-know-how.blogspot.com/2015/04/clothes-pins-into-modelers-clamps.html

I don't think you need tool steel for the bar stock. Mild steel is pretty cheap and available at any hardware store o bigbox  - 1/8"  or 3/16" should do fine.  You'll have a chance to hone your grinding, filing, and thread tapping skills.  I'd use socket head screws.  A drill press with a vise will make things simpler.  
 
If you want to see the entire process of making fine tools as was done before modern machinery see below.  Be warned that you'll be fascinated with the videos and might spend an entire evening watching all of them: 
 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA 

In my opinion, Franklin Hide glue is the work of the devil.  The shrinkage is very high, and the additives that keep it liquid at room temperature (possibly urea) seem to ruin it.  I never use it.  I make up Behlens Hide Glue and store it frozen in ice cube trays,  and apply it hot at 145F.   Another brand called Old Brown Glue is said to have good properties and is warmed in hot water, but I've never used it.  
 
The alcohols that are commonly available are methanol (1 carbon), ethanol (2 carbons) and isopropyl (3 carbons).   Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol mixed with water,  and a 70% solution is used for medical purposes because it is most effective for killing bacteria, where as weaker or stronger are not.  Ethanol is the best solvent for shellac, although both methanol and isopropyl will have some effect.
 
Incidentally, I've found that alcohol-based Purell hand sanitizer is excellent for removing pitch from saw blades.

Titebond will work for you.  There are some tricks to learn that might be useful, but you needn't bother with that now  By the way, these PVA  glues are degraded when they smells sour - of vinegar/acetic acid.  But it still may work for non-critical joints.
 
That said, here's what I think about when gluing stuff, although very special glues may require special consideration.  I speak here from my experience as a former research scientist in the testing of implantable devices for cardiothoracic and vascular surgery, and as a hobbyist. My knowledge is not at all definitive, but I learned some useful things over the years.


The glue to use, is the one which suits several requirements of a particular application:
 
First, do the parts fit together closely, and do the parts have similar rates of thermal expansion and flexibility?  Gaps between parts are weak and unsightly, and so joints between materials that are not similar in expansion and flexibility often fail.  This is probably not a problem with most static ship models, but it might become so over months and years of changes in environment.
 
1. Compatibility with materials.  A glue may be simply a solidifying layer that engages the surface irregularities between two materials.  Most modern wood glues do exactly that - they flow into and grip the pores and grain of the woods.  Some glues will dissolve one material, and 'reform' the surface to engage the surface irregularities of the other material (e.g. on guitars, dissolving nitrocellulose binding to engage the wooden edges on a guitar soundboard and sides).  Other glues actually dissolve the materials and 'solvent weld' them together (e.g. methylene chloride that is applied to polymethylmethacrylate (Plexiglass/Perspex)).
 
2,  Is the glue compatible with finishes?  Synthetic glues often resist paints and varnishes, and so the layer that joins the parts must be very small, so that the finish can 'bridge' the glue joint.  Thus, excessive squeeze-out that contaminates surfaces is not desirable.  Usually this is avoided by a judicious application of the correct amount of glue, and a quick and thorough wipe-off of the excess squeeze-out
 
3. Is the glue stable enough to hold the joint?    As mentioned above, 'white' PVA glues (e.g. Elmer's), and to some extent Titebond, can 'cold flow' when the joint is stressed.  For modelbuilding, I doubt that this is a problem.  But I know that Titebond is not a structural glue (e.g. for bonding timbers (here, I mean the American term for the massive wooden parts of a building, not a 4x2).
 
4.  Does use of the glue require safety measures when handling and applying?  Titebond and other PVA glues are quite safe, but epoxies are most certainly not.  They must be mixed in the correct proportions, and one should avoid any contact with body tissues - always wear gloves.  Epoxy components are sensitizers for allergenic responses that may occur upon the first or hundredth exposure, and then permanent sensitization occurs that may become progressively severe.  CA glue is somewhat compatible with tissues, and has a use as a surgical glue, but it breaks down upon extended exposure to moisture.  Also, the removers of CA glue (e.g. acetone) are not kind to body tissues. Silicone glues (e.g. aquarium cement) have the least reactivity in my experience, but they often generate acetic acid as a byproduct that may be irritating.  Generally, it's best practice to always avoid contact with glue, if only to prevent contamination of the mode's surfaces and your clothing.

I don't think you need tool steel for the bar stock. Mild steel is pretty cheap and available at any hardware store o bigbox  - 1/8"  or 3/16" should do fine.  You'll have a chance to hone your grinding, filing, and thread tapping skills.  I'd use socket head screws.  A drill press with a vise will make things simpler.  
 
If you want to see the entire process of making fine tools as was done before modern machinery see below.  Be warned that you'll be fascinated with the videos and might spend an entire evening watching all of them: 
 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA 

I don't think you need tool steel for the bar stock. Mild steel is pretty cheap and available at any hardware store o bigbox  - 1/8"  or 3/16" should do fine.  You'll have a chance to hone your grinding, filing, and thread tapping skills.  I'd use socket head screws.  A drill press with a vise will make things simpler.  
 
If you want to see the entire process of making fine tools as was done before modern machinery see below.  Be warned that you'll be fascinated with the videos and might spend an entire evening watching all of them: 
 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA 

I don't think you need tool steel for the bar stock. Mild steel is pretty cheap and available at any hardware store o bigbox  - 1/8"  or 3/16" should do fine.  You'll have a chance to hone your grinding, filing, and thread tapping skills.  I'd use socket head screws.  A drill press with a vise will make things simpler.  
 
If you want to see the entire process of making fine tools as was done before modern machinery see below.  Be warned that you'll be fascinated with the videos and might spend an entire evening watching all of them: 
 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCworsKCR-Sx6R6-BnIjS2MA 

In my opinion, Franklin Hide glue is the work of the devil.  The shrinkage is very high, and the additives that keep it liquid at room temperature (possibly urea) seem to ruin it.  I never use it.  I make up Behlens Hide Glue and store it frozen in ice cube trays,  and apply it hot at 145F.   Another brand called Old Brown Glue is said to have good properties and is warmed in hot water, but I've never used it.  
 
The alcohols that are commonly available are methanol (1 carbon), ethanol (2 carbons) and isopropyl (3 carbons).   Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol mixed with water,  and a 70% solution is used for medical purposes because it is most effective for killing bacteria, where as weaker or stronger are not.  Ethanol is the best solvent for shellac, although both methanol and isopropyl will have some effect.
 
Incidentally, I've found that alcohol-based Purell hand sanitizer is excellent for removing pitch from saw blades.

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol mixed with methanol (and possibly other  noxious substances) added to make it poisonous.  The proportions vary from 30-60% either way.  Pure ethyl alcohol is consumable and taxable and hence much more expensive.   
 
Hide glue will also denature and release with steaming water alone, but that might cause problems with warping.

Is there a 'best'?  Maybe.  I've used -
 
1. 3M SprayMount (low tack) and 3M Super 77 (high tack), and Weldon Contact Cement.  All of these can be removed with spirits of naptha.  residues can be a problem
2. rub-on glue sticks, ok but only for items where I didn't worry about removal
3. Elmer's glue - water removes it but can stain
4. Shellac - a traditional adhesive that can be removed with denatured alcohol, and should not interfere with finishes
5.  hot hide glue (not Franklin!) - hot water / steam soluble and does not interfere with finishes
 

Before I forget - there's another part of these fixtures  that may not be obvious.  They must be secured to a workbench.  Dr. Harry Vars, a very wise professor who was a pioneer of intravenous nutritional support, once told me, "Don't use your shirt tail for a workbench."  It was advice well taken.

Hello, I'm a lurker here.  I have a nascent interest in modelling, and I'm collecting ideas & information for the future.  But in the meantime, I thought that members might appreciate a couple of crosscutting fixtures that I developed after I fell off my bicycle and fractured a wrist/hand in several places.  I was leery of operating power equipment with one hand impaired.  
 
These fixtures are for slotting the fingerboards of fretted instruments.  One is dedicated for 90d cuts, and the other is for varying angle cuts for multi-scaled (fanned fretted) guitars.  Both were made from pine boards that were selected and cut out of No.2 Common boards after allowing the boards to acclimate to the ambient humidity.  
 
The 90d fixture:
 
The basic construction is a baseboard with two registration strips that hold the fingerboard securely by means of a pair of matched wedges.  The saw guide is fixed precisely at 90d, and has a self-adhesive magnetic strip attached to one side.  In use, the fingerboard is laid in the trough between the strips, and then the wedges are snugged to hold it securely.  Then the flush-cut razor saw is placed on the magnetic strip and drawn back & forth to cut the slot for the fret.   You can see an extended discussion here:  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3378
 
The variable angle fixture is similar, and I use a Wixey digital protractor (0.1d resolution) to set the fence.  A discussion of it may be viewed here
 
  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4058&hilit=fixture+jig+slot

Hello, I'm a lurker here.  I have a nascent interest in modelling, and I'm collecting ideas & information for the future.  But in the meantime, I thought that members might appreciate a couple of crosscutting fixtures that I developed after I fell off my bicycle and fractured a wrist/hand in several places.  I was leery of operating power equipment with one hand impaired.  
 
These fixtures are for slotting the fingerboards of fretted instruments.  One is dedicated for 90d cuts, and the other is for varying angle cuts for multi-scaled (fanned fretted) guitars.  Both were made from pine boards that were selected and cut out of No.2 Common boards after allowing the boards to acclimate to the ambient humidity.  
 
The 90d fixture:
 
The basic construction is a baseboard with two registration strips that hold the fingerboard securely by means of a pair of matched wedges.  The saw guide is fixed precisely at 90d, and has a self-adhesive magnetic strip attached to one side.  In use, the fingerboard is laid in the trough between the strips, and then the wedges are snugged to hold it securely.  Then the flush-cut razor saw is placed on the magnetic strip and drawn back & forth to cut the slot for the fret.   You can see an extended discussion here:  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3378
 
The variable angle fixture is similar, and I use a Wixey digital protractor (0.1d resolution) to set the fence.  A discussion of it may be viewed here
 
  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4058&hilit=fixture+jig+slot

Before I forget - there's another part of these fixtures  that may not be obvious.  They must be secured to a workbench.  Dr. Harry Vars, a very wise professor who was a pioneer of intravenous nutritional support, once told me, "Don't use your shirt tail for a workbench."  It was advice well taken.

Before I forget - there's another part of these fixtures  that may not be obvious.  They must be secured to a workbench.  Dr. Harry Vars, a very wise professor who was a pioneer of intravenous nutritional support, once told me, "Don't use your shirt tail for a workbench."  It was advice well taken.

Hello, I'm a lurker here.  I have a nascent interest in modelling, and I'm collecting ideas & information for the future.  But in the meantime, I thought that members might appreciate a couple of crosscutting fixtures that I developed after I fell off my bicycle and fractured a wrist/hand in several places.  I was leery of operating power equipment with one hand impaired.  
 
These fixtures are for slotting the fingerboards of fretted instruments.  One is dedicated for 90d cuts, and the other is for varying angle cuts for multi-scaled (fanned fretted) guitars.  Both were made from pine boards that were selected and cut out of No.2 Common boards after allowing the boards to acclimate to the ambient humidity.  
 
The 90d fixture:
 
The basic construction is a baseboard with two registration strips that hold the fingerboard securely by means of a pair of matched wedges.  The saw guide is fixed precisely at 90d, and has a self-adhesive magnetic strip attached to one side.  In use, the fingerboard is laid in the trough between the strips, and then the wedges are snugged to hold it securely.  Then the flush-cut razor saw is placed on the magnetic strip and drawn back & forth to cut the slot for the fret.   You can see an extended discussion here:  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3378
 
The variable angle fixture is similar, and I use a Wixey digital protractor (0.1d resolution) to set the fence.  A discussion of it may be viewed here
 
  http://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=4058&hilit=fixture+jig+slot

polyurethanes and epoxies will glue wood to metal.  I think the only materials that are almost unglueable are PTFEs, polypropylenes, and some polyethylenes.

In my opinion, Franklin Hide glue is the work of the devil.  The shrinkage is very high, and the additives that keep it liquid at room temperature (possibly urea) seem to ruin it.  I never use it.  I make up Behlens Hide Glue and store it frozen in ice cube trays,  and apply it hot at 145F.   Another brand called Old Brown Glue is said to have good properties and is warmed in hot water, but I've never used it.  
 
The alcohols that are commonly available are methanol (1 carbon), ethanol (2 carbons) and isopropyl (3 carbons).   Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol mixed with water,  and a 70% solution is used for medical purposes because it is most effective for killing bacteria, where as weaker or stronger are not.  Ethanol is the best solvent for shellac, although both methanol and isopropyl will have some effect.
 
Incidentally, I've found that alcohol-based Purell hand sanitizer is excellent for removing pitch from saw blades.

In my opinion, Franklin Hide glue is the work of the devil.  The shrinkage is very high, and the additives that keep it liquid at room temperature (possibly urea) seem to ruin it.  I never use it.  I make up Behlens Hide Glue and store it frozen in ice cube trays,  and apply it hot at 145F.   Another brand called Old Brown Glue is said to have good properties and is warmed in hot water, but I've never used it.  
 
The alcohols that are commonly available are methanol (1 carbon), ethanol (2 carbons) and isopropyl (3 carbons).   Rubbing alcohol is isopropyl alcohol mixed with water,  and a 70% solution is used for medical purposes because it is most effective for killing bacteria, where as weaker or stronger are not.  Ethanol is the best solvent for shellac, although both methanol and isopropyl will have some effect.
 
Incidentally, I've found that alcohol-based Purell hand sanitizer is excellent for removing pitch from saw blades.

polyurethanes and epoxies will glue wood to metal.  I think the only materials that are almost unglueable are PTFEs, polypropylenes, and some polyethylenes.

Hmm, were you applying the CA glue straight from bottle?  That can certainly create problems.  Instead, try putting a dot of glue on a card, and then use  a plastic toothpick as an applicator.  A tiny amount can be placed by using the sharp end, and slightly more with the brush end.  Also, select an appropriate viscosity, and maybe try an accelerant.  As always, develop new techniques on scrap material first.

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol mixed with methanol (and possibly other  noxious substances) added to make it poisonous.  The proportions vary from 30-60% either way.  Pure ethyl alcohol is consumable and taxable and hence much more expensive.   
 
Hide glue will also denature and release with steaming water alone, but that might cause problems with warping.

Denatured alcohol is ethyl alcohol mixed with methanol (and possibly other  noxious substances) added to make it poisonous.  The proportions vary from 30-60% either way.  Pure ethyl alcohol is consumable and taxable and hence much more expensive.   
 
Hide glue will also denature and release with steaming water alone, but that might cause problems with warping.

Is there a 'best'?  Maybe.  I've used -
 
1. 3M SprayMount (low tack) and 3M Super 77 (high tack), and Weldon Contact Cement.  All of these can be removed with spirits of naptha.  residues can be a problem
2. rub-on glue sticks, ok but only for items where I didn't worry about removal
3. Elmer's glue - water removes it but can stain
4. Shellac - a traditional adhesive that can be removed with denatured alcohol, and should not interfere with finishes
5.  hot hide glue (not Franklin!) - hot water / steam soluble and does not interfere with finishes