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Thistle17

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  1. Thistle17
    Cliff many thanks for your response. Unless something dramatic happens in the near future to sway me I have pretty much settled on the Sherline 5400 DRO machine. I will be purchasing one for the fall if all goes as planned. I ran across 2 sites that seem to offer free shipping and some dollars off on these machines. They are Blue Ridge Machines and Campus Discounts (I think). And yes I will have to go further with hold downs, vice, collets etc. I was so impressed by the kids pictures! All too many of are young do not seem to have the interest in and willingness to learn these lifetime skills. And again welcome to the forum! Joe
  2. Thistle17
    Good info from you folk. I did find the brushes on-line for a decent price (under $25 including tax and shipping). I am going to try this route first and if that fails it will be a new motor or (at around $200) or send it back to Sherline. These brushes are rated at about 300 hours of run time. I have to believe that running at the highest speed of 10,000 RPM that might be a stretch claim. Anyone have any feedback on this? Joe
  3. Thistle17
    Ron if you go to this web address you will see the Painting Tutorial. http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/26830 Joe
  4. Thistle17
    While going through the decision process I was offered the loan of an older Sherline Mill to try out. It is of vintage pre 1998 I think as it has the old motor style with internal brushes. When I fired it up I noticed it stuttered at low speeds. My guess is it needs new brushes and a commutator cleaning. Looking on the Sherline web site they give instructions how to do so. For a first time attempt at this, it doesn't come across as straight forward, needing a wheel puller and some minor hole drilling. I understand the newer motors have external brushes. So before I try it out I am going to give it a go. There is always a "hill climb" before you get to the top! Joe
  5. Thistle17
    Nice to have a new member and younger at that, that is always encouraging from a propagation of this splendid art form and pastime! Assuming you have the basic skill base down and also the tools then you are likely to engage most model projects with confidence and likely good results. I would suggest that you consider the instruction set as a stating point. I am unfamiliar with Lumberyard plans and instructions. However I am familiar with Model Shipways and/or Syren instructions and plans. While I am not suggesting any source if you go on line and look at the PDF's for say the Model Ship Ways, Confederacy or look at Syren Ship Model company's Cutter Cheerful you will see what I consider the standard for instruction sets. Not strangely they are written by the same person, Chuck Passaro. Having said that, starting out anew it might be a good idea to look at Cheerful. It is a splendid model and components (even the materials package) are available to you for the build. In addition this web site, under Scratch build has incredible logs of the process and they set a standard for good work. Good and safe voyage Cliff. Joe
  6. Thistle17
    As you may have picked up "humanizing" this project means so much to me. I just learned yesterday from a family member that my recently departed brother in-law and childhood buddy hurt his back for a life time of pain and limitation in Viet Nam. For you see he was a MASH unit surgeon assigned to one of the Special Forces encampments. His brother related that in pulling up a wounded solider from one of the water craft into a helicopter he over extended himself and ended up hurt for life. He was just out of school, in residency when he was pulled into service. I am told he saved many lives and limb. His name was Jim. What are the chances it may have been a PBR?
  7. Thistle17
    Pat as you observe ABS is a difficult material to adhere to. In terms of glue, I did find that the DAP Rapid Fuse, General Purpose worked well. I used it on the decking and even though the deck does flex the material has stayed put. I had to replace some decking due to thickness problems and the only thing that excavated the plank was a sharp chisel and carefully carving it out.This will be a static model so water, temperature swings and UV will not be problematical. I am curious about the rubberized CA though. Can you direct me to a manufacturer and identity? In regard to painting, I am about to test paint the rudder so I will feedback the results.
  8. Thistle17
    So many voices, so much sage advice. Who could ask for more. I really value all your input. The 'voting" so far has the hands down favorite as the Sherline, but Jim that Hardinge makes me drool. What a rare find!
  9. Thistle17
    To all, and once again, your comments and advice are so useful. It clarifies the "pivot point" for a model miller to be MONEY! The Sherline machine is the overwhelming choice of members for modeling projects. If I have other"marco" applications maybe a larger bench top machine would be in order. I have never considered using the column to convert my Unimat to a milling device as I always discounted its capability. Given all comments and my needs I guess the wallet will have to open up more.
  10. Thistle17
    Your input is most welcome thank you. I will study these and others to come. Joe
  11. Thistle17
    Over the years I have acquired a basic set of model making power tools. From way back when, I acquired a Unimat lathe and recently upgraded my saw and thickness sander to Byrnes models. Big boy shop tools have helped fill in the gap for other operations. I have been considering a vertical mill but I sense I am entering a "dark" area as I have little experience with them. The use would of course be for ship modeling but even a deliberate search yields a bewildering array of machines and pricing. I perceive my needs would be for milling brass, aluminum and of course hard woods. Variable speed of sufficient power, of course an appropriate X/Y table, an array of available accessories are the "must haves". The"nice to haves" list at this moment is small but I sense CNC adaptability might be in on that list. Price ceilings I would be around $1000. In searching this site, and of course the web, I did come across some options but what I am looking for is a consensus or member recommendation of what manufacturer or direction to go. So any of you accomplished millers out there can you help me decide?
  12. Thistle17
    I made a test sample of the bulkwarks and tried machining in the scuppers on my drill press. The results were less than pleasing so I have ordered a new Dremel and down spiral bit to mill them in. As I wait I decided to ready the hull for painting. The hull is not too bad in terms of finish but there was need to fill in the joint seams and the rudder receiver. I used Ever Coat Rage and sanded that down followed by Nitro Stan glazing compound in prep for wet sanding. I have searched the web for recommendations on the type of paint and one modeler's source speaks to Krylon works on ABS plastic. Needs more research.
  13. Thistle17
    Mind boggling! Thank you John!
  14. Thistle17
    You struck a cord with me, actually a number of chords. Keep doing what you are doing it is inspirational. Joe
  15. Thistle17
    Chuck if you go to the web site for Model Railroader Hobbist Magazine and register you will be able to access a pretty amazing tutorial on painting. Its free for the download. Also the IPMS web site has some treatments on painting as well. Joe
  16. Thistle17
    Standby Pat and as soon as we understand the process and route to document capture I believe Jim can relate that. Jim has a storied background in naval construction and was able to connect into resources not readily available to all. It was all done by the book, but it never hurts to have some "good old America know who" as well.
  17. Thistle17
    I have been sitting on this news from Jim for a few days now. I felt it wasn't mine to relate. Our original drawings were from Maryland and Silver (I think I have the source right) and they appear to be concept drawings. When looking at the photos folks have submitted we began to realize we needed more help. This opens up a new vista for us to replicate this model for the museum. I am sure many of you would share in our excitement and gratitude to Jim for his dogged pursuit of authenticity. Jim is a recent new member of our group and his contributions are already felt. Thank you Jim! Joe
  18. Thistle17
    I am fascinated by the model, its quality and execution. I do not know your background but you have an undeniable talent and you seem to be under no illusion or fear of failure. Just a beauty! Joe
  19. Thistle17
    When i said keep the information coming I had no idea all this was out there. Thank you all so much for your reference and real life information. Joe
  20. Thistle17
    I am so taken by the responses I am getting from all of you. You bring life and breath to this endeavor. I certainly hope we can live up to expectations and we do you all proud. Keep your experiences and memories coming it speaks and means so much to us. Joe
  21. Thistle17
    Pat I had seen your planking photo on line before. Splendid execution and results. The Atlantis doesn't have teak as best I can tell. It is more like weathered pine and of poor quality. The ends of the planks look like they were chopped and poorly so. I scrapped the material and used box wood and mahogany. I will be putting up the results shortly The client apparently lost the bulwarks pieces so I am fabricating them at this very moment. I am using straight grain maple milled to fit the rabbet on the hull and adding a basswood height extension as my maple material was only 3/4". The basswood will also allow me to add a mahogany cap rail to this improvisation when all is said and done. This would have been infinitely easier had the parts been available. I have contacted Krick in Germany who bought out Robbe and they have indicated they will be sending the masts in a shipment to Ages of Sail and then onto me. I hope!!!!!! Luckily I have the instruction manual and drawings. The drawings are not to scale so I am having to apply some relative size approximation for sizes and adjust for parts I can find on line. The bulkwarks and stanchions are a good example of this. And thank you for the link to your build. It will help.
  22. Thistle17
    Thank you I just didn't dwell long enough on the sequence to get the logic.
  23. Thistle17
    Something bizzare happening on the PBR Mark 1 blog. Sometimes the title is bold and sometimes not. Any ideas? Joe
  24. Thistle17
    Ken it adds another dimension to this project when I hear of folk involved in this or any other conflict for that matter. I must admit I never served, as I was in ASW engineering when this conflict arose. Hence I was never drafted. I would further relate I have great reverence for veterans of this or any other campaign! I was a babe in arms during WWII so when I began reading about those that served I tend to get pretty emotional. In Ian Tolls, trilogy, Pacific Crucible and The Concurring Tide, (one more volume to come) I pause when reading his account of Navy pilots flying off carriers with only enough fuel for a one way trip. Who were these folk!!!!!!!!! Joe
  25. Thistle17
    Thanks all for the great photos Kurt and Jud and the directives. Jud it is an honor to communicate with you as one who was there! Yes I recognize the prior photo is a Mark 2, I am learning fast. I assume the transom overhang on the Mark 2s took the place of the "trim board" on the Mark 1s. Stern photos of the Mark 1 are quite revealing as our drawing graphics does not show that much detail. Certainly "miles to go before we sleep". Joe

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