Thistle17
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Atlantis by Thistle17 - FINISHED - Robbe
Thistle17 replied to Thistle17's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
I finally heard from Krick and they do have some spare parts. The masts are available but it proves to be a shipping problem due to their length. I have appealed to Ages of Sail to see if I can piggy back one of their ship ments. -
Erik: Were I you I would proceed as you have been it is such an excellent execution! Just a nudge, maybe if the fit your way gets to you, try the tape method to see where the plank needs work. Just A thought. I have begun planking my Cheerful at the wales after ripping my planks.That was a learning experience as well until I made a jig to do so. I have a long way to go in number(of strakes) and results compared to you. Nonetheless you give me a "target" to shoot for. Keep up your good works. Joe
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Deleting your own topics and posts
Thistle17 replied to Chuck's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I think you should turn it on. I am aware that servers can get clogged with "junk" because someone has decided not to finish the projec as I did. I abandoned my Unicorn thread because I lost heart in a kit that was not accurate and its vintage was 1980's. Simply it was not a good place to re-enter the hobby. I found I could only delete some posts of mine but others who commented I could not. (Pre S/W upgrade). Why not turn it on for a trial period and get feedback? Joe -
Erik:I hesitate weighing in with such an august group but here goes...... This may help you given that you are infilling a strake area. Bob Filipowski gave me a tutorial that uses "scotch" type tape, the frosty kind, layered over the opening. He then rubs the tape at the edge of the upper and lower planks defining the opening. He carefully lays and removes the tape so as not to distort it. He then tapes it to card stock and cuts out the pattern. He then lays the pattern on stock and cuts it out. This leaves the fashioned piece a bit fat which then can be sanded to fit. Joe
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I am quietly watching from the shadows Sam!!!!! One question did you thin the acrylics? I tried some last eve out of the tube and did not like the uneven cover. I have been a Floquil user in the past. Hard to walk away from those results. Have experimented with Model Master acrylics with the same results as my wife's arcrylics.. Joe
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Model Shipway's Paints
Thistle17 replied to Worldway's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I hope I am adding useful information to this mix. Here goes. I have yet to try these paints as I was a "committed" Floquil user for many years and had good results (spraying or brush) with them albeit the toxicity was a constant worry. When I returned to modeling recently I was disappointed to learn of the demise of the company. I turned to Model Master paints as an alternative and found them to be a reasonable substitute although I am still in the experimental stage. I did run across this chart on the web that correlates the 2 brands. It i MEhttp://www.microscale.com/Floquil Color Chart.pdfs . I have also been looking at Tru Color paints trucolorpaint.com which are supposed to be comparable to Floquil paints in propertiies if not color. I have tried to get a chart comparison from them but the last time I tried they never came through. Both MM and Tru Color are mixable to get any hue or color one is looking for. I solicit comments from others. -
Atlantis by Thistle17 - FINISHED - Robbe
Thistle17 replied to Thistle17's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
Help from anyone out here! Has anyone had any success contacting Krick Models in Germany? They just don't seem to respond to any of my queries. -
Well as of yesterday all kits have been sold. Our feeble marketing attemps close to home netted sales of about 8 kits to members. The balance are being shipped to Model Expo answering their offer to buy old kits. Granted we didn't make a great deal for the museum but we did net around $500. I will terminate this thread on about a week.
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Bill: I had a similar problem with fittings starting to powder. I went a bit farther than ambient air passive flow. I actually run a small pancake or muffin fan in my case. It sits below the case deck (as it is on stylized feet. It runs about 50 cfm and draws less than an amp. It is on a timer 6 on /6 off hours. I have been running in this mode for about 6 months now no deterioration.
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the rabbet
Thistle17 replied to kier's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Here is some further thoughts from another corner. My answer would be the following with a bit of clarification. When you say "wide" I assume you mean the height from false keel or bulkhead former to the keel. If that is your question then I would submit the following: At the widest hull station the planks almost enter the keel rabbet in a perpendicular manner. So at that point the height of the rabbet should be a comfortable but not tight fit and as Pat says, whether one or two plank layers. When you get to the stern the planks are likely to approach the rabbet at a much sharper angle and the plank edge is technically fatter because of that angle. It also tends to rise higher in the rabbet. Certainly not to a great degree but nonetheless a bit fatter and at a higher approach.I tend to make the rabbet just a tad loose at midships (not sloppy), live with that along the keel, and coax it in at the stern. Sometimes if it is double planked you can hold the sub layer back a tad from the rabbet and slide the thinner top plank in, in an interference manner. Hope this helps. Experimentation is not a bad idea! -
I have a client that wishes her late husband's Atlantis R/C model be completed as a static model. Parts are missing and I have just learned Krick has bought out the Robbe business. Can anyone shed light on Krick's intentions to re-release the models and parts? Alternately, anyone out there have a kit or partial kit for sale? Thanks
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Advice for planking
Thistle17 replied to Slowhand's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
May I wade into this discussion and ask something that might be of common interest to the originator of this sub-segment? I am also of the opinion that after the wales install one might be inclined to work the Garboard next and continue as recommended since the Garboard is compartively hard to install as the last element. Now if I listen to the experts (not being sarcastic) it is recommended that the Garboard should not follow the "turn of the bow or stern" as this will cause problems in those areas later on. So here is where the question starts to emerge. Given the restraint that the Garboard is not a "lengthy" plank it will only partially infill the keel area. The next plank, the Broad strake will appraoch the "in fill" need but must begin to follow the turnof the bilge and will not remain parallel to the keel as advised (in some documented practices). It will still be fairly perpendicular amid ship but turn almost 90 degrees to it's outermost edge by the time it reaches the stern thereby the paralellism is sacrificed. Am I reading too much into the practice? -
At our last meeting we have decided on offering some kits for sale. After we ensure that the kits are complete we will alert MSW. Other kits we are planning on utilizing to mentor young folk and hopefully draw them away from those technology gadgets they seem to have grown as an appendage.
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Rob This is something that just came to mind after which I will stop living in the past and stick to modeling. You may find this amusing. One of my last gasps at Raytheon was to work on a proposal to install a hydrophone array to improve torpedo test firing data collection. The preface to the RFQ related that during early days of WWII they used to fire the torpedoes off a stationary platform and have men in row boats down range,with lanterns, signal the torpedoes' passage. It worked poorly as you can imagine. In part because of the poor data collection methodology and also the torpedoes were of their own mind about the path they would take. It wasn't until,I believe, the Mark IV (?) came along that we had parity with Japanese weaponry. Boy were we in trouble early on.
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It is one and the same. I did not use the duct foil as it was a bit too thick in gauge. Be careful with the Bare Metal Foil it rips easily.
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Rob I just realized where you live. I used to live in Portsmouth RI and worked at Raytheon. At that time (Vietnam era) it was called Submarine Signal Division. I worked in electronics design of surface to sub surface sonar systems. At that time the destroyer fleet was stationed there and I got on base to play ball and dine at the officers club. I also worked on the sono-bouy program at General Dynamics in Rochester NY. Now that was long ago and far away but recently we visited Bristol. Love that town! I still chuckle about the time there, as we lived in a small apartment complex with 3 Navy families; an Annapolis grad, an enlisted "swabby" and a Great Lakes grad. It was a hoot. Joe
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My grandson and I fastened the rub strips to the sides just this week. Again we used metal foil over styrene 1/2 round of appropriate scale. We used CA (20 second) glue to fasten to the sides sparingly. It took both of us to do it. The CA was applied to sections and then held in place. The results were quite satisfying.
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I am following your posts with interest as you are breaking ground for my build of this model. In carving I find the following: a very sharp chisel, don't be afraid to saw some of the overhang off, if that is balsa or even bass I would use a sharp gouge to remove some of the excess and pare with a chisel as you approach the correct contours. Also when excavating remove the material starting at the bow and work aft. i hope these suggestions don't insult your intelligence. They are just basic methods for any carving. I really like your work.
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I did not stain anything, rather just applied the top clear coat and let the mahogany do its thing. The strips are pretty uniform in color so the sides and deck came out quite well. If you want the deck planks lighter you may have to use different stock. I'd suggest you experiment, off model, with some different stains and stock. You may also try some of the Trans Tint dyes (using alcohol instead of water) to color the material. Don't use basswood.
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Paul I used filler as I related earlier on the PVC substrate. The Evercoat 2 part filler and I backed up some joints on the inside of the hull with CA'd wood fillers. As for the planking when it was laid dow, whether it sprang loose or laid down correctly I did have to use filler. I used the colored filler you can buy at Home Depot (Elmer's or others) that comes in the squeeze tubes. It has a paste like consistency and will rub into the joints well. I used cherry colored filler. However I caution; it colors the surrounding planks if it gets away from you, and you will see the smear after clear coating the hull. I had to sand down the clear coat and then the planks to get it to blend. I'd suggest masking off the area you apply fill to.
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Paul don't be discouraged by this stage of the results. I too felt as you do right now. This kit needs an upgrade in terms of manufacturing. You will begin to see a "different boat as you apply the planking so take heart. As for the planking take some extra care as you adhere the planks near the bow. I had a couple lift an edge as there is no good way to clamp them as you lay them down. I had to use low viscosity CA and hand pressure to "flatten" them down. A messy process and the seams soaked the CA. Lots of sanding to get past that.
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I really like the sandable ease of EverCoat Rage. It is a 2 part filler and adheres to the PVC (roughen the PVC up though). It is used in auto body repair.
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Paul here is the method I am using to metal foil the rub strip. In the vise is a 1/4" MDF scrap cut to the contour of the deck curve using the negative space material in the kit. If you look closely I created a 3/8" deep rabbet to reduce the contour (of the MDF) to match the width of the 1/2 round styrene I am using for the rub rail substrate.The substrate is temporarily taped to the form. In the background you will see an approximately 3/8 inch strip of the metal foil cut from the sheet. It is fairly easy to lay down centered and burnished smooth on the substarte. The next piece will slightly overlay the former strip and so on. Obviously it needs trimming but that can be done with a very sharp razor blade. Hope this helps..
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If the chine run is fair and true I would keep going as you show and then bring the side panels down (up as in the picture) as far as they will go. Hopefully you will have an edge (of the side panels) proud of the underside panels and then you can sand flush with bottom. If there is not enough side panel depth to do so just fill with your glass compound and fair in. If you believe the bottom PVC panels are the true run then I would carefully sand the chine to conform and keep going as stated above. My guess is this is the more correct reference (i.e.the PVC panels).
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Well here is a saga that ended well. The owner of the ship model kits previously referred to called and offered his kits up to the Military History Society of Rochester NY. In turn he will receive a write off for his taxes and we the Model Shipwright Guild of Western NY will work to find the kits a good home and hopefully raise funds for the museum in so doing. This was a win.win for all. It just shows this "band of brothers" that exists in the model ship building world.Indeed a great ending.
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