Thistle17

There is something fascinating about restoration of a model. I have done 2 for an individual in our city that were termed "sailors models" and as such were a bit rudimentary in comparison. Your uncle was accomplished and your work on this gem is outstanding. Those who sailed aboard these ships were indeed remarkable people and your work honors them!

Well after more hours than I care to add up I finished sanding the deck planking. As I mentioned earlier I foolishly laid planking without checking its thickness over length uniformity and as a result had quite a time of leveling the planking especially on the starboard side (that is where I got a bit wiser). In addition to material problems I ran into 2 other problems with the hull. The first is I discovered that the hull 'half's' port and starboard were slightly different. This in combination with plank over plank placement/tolerance build up became a real challenge to give a completely matched deck pattern along the center line of the hull. It came out relatively well but there was a price to pay doing so with a combination of pattern making to nicely fit the planks. Secondly the hull deck (substrate) was slighltly concave just forward of the mid cabin on the starboard side. I managed to get most of it out but there is still a slight depression to my touch. I am now faced with a dilemma with simulated deck plank length. The material used in planking was 12" long so there are a number of butt ends at non uniform places along the beam. Most modelers I have seen on line ignored how a real boat is built and so paid no attention to where the deck beams might have been. The end result was the planking on other models looks like a herring bone pattern. I am working to scribe in some simulated planks obeying some semblance of uniformity. I have included a picture of results to date. Hard to see the plank ends though.

Ken can you give a specific "pointer" on the mentioned web site regarding the mentioned booklet. I signed up and scanned forums and blogs and didn'tfind it. Thanks Joe

I am a late adopter by nature and have just started the Cheerful (now at the planking stage). Seeing the incredible result you have produced, amongst others, I am inspired to go on. I realize I am among masters and that is always a welcome challenge for me. Incredible work Chuck!

Here is a cross reference chart I ran across attempting to provide modelers alternatives in terms of manufactures of paint as replacement to Floquil. I would just add a caution as I do not know when this chart was generated and was cautioned by a model shop owner that the Floquil paints went through an evolution within themselves. Lastly this may be the same reference as published in the model railroad magazine. I do not subscribe so hopefully this does not add noise in the system. https://www.microscale.com/Floquil Color Chart.pdf Joe

Would you mind showing the setup with stock and substrate aligned in the jig ready to plane as I am not quite getting the setup. Thanks. Joe

I too was fascinated with the period novels of O'Brian and Kent. In the past years I have gravitated to more Non Fiction reading as I find the accounting more exciting, emotional and educational. Here is a series of books I found worth reading: Ian Toll: Six Frigates Tim McGrath: John Barry An American Hero Ian Toll: Pacific Crucible/The Conquering Tide/TBD (Trilogy) > WWII Pacific Campaign James Hornfisher: Neptune's Inferno/The Last Stand of Tin Can Sailors/Ship of Ghosts Doug Stanton: In Harms Way Roy Adkins: Nelson's Trafalgar Stephen Taylor: Commander Tom Chaffin: H.L.Hunley Hours and hours of engaging reading! Joe

I have run into a problem with the boxwood planking made from purchased sheet goods. I ordered 3/64" (.047) sheet material and ripped the planking. To simulate the original material that came with the Atlantis I cut the 24 inch planks in half. As I began laying the planks I noticed significant variation in thickness of the planks across the 12" length. At first I thought is was the roughness of the ABS hull after I had sanded it down. I finally measured the plank thickness end to end and found as much as 10 thousands variation. I have learned that the vendor does try to control its variation =/- .005. I have been working with the vendor to try and correct this problem. I now will measure all stock upon receipt and will be the wiser for doing so. The vendor is sending on a new batch of sheet stock for which I am grateful. In the meantime I have a good deal of sanding ahead of me.

If you can get your hands on Model Shipwright, now out of print you will find a treasure trove of incredible models and building. The publisher also released 4 annuals, Shipwright, in 2010 through 2013 which are equally rich. They too have ceased the annual publication. Try a query to Conway Press in the UK. They may be of help. Joe

I have the kit. It is likely late 1980's in age in the original yellow box and complete. If you are interested I can send you a digital pic of the contents via the internal messaging system. Joe

Can't think of a more peaceful venue to build a ship model save down by the sea. Great start on this model. Hope to see more in the future. If you are an upstate New Yorker certainly like to hear from you via the messages icon in the tool bar. We have a thriving modelers group in Rochester NY. Here is our web page modelshipwrightguildwny.org. Joe

White glue can soak into the porous wood and swell and buckle it, If it is loose underneath I'd be tempted to experiment with CA glue, the very viscous, fast setting, type and squirt it underneath carefully and pressure hold that section for a few seconds. I don't think I would add more water to the decking as you describe. If it is not loose but buckled I a tad try sanding as your last step. If all else fails (and we all have had that) I'd rip it up and start again. Also white PVA glue can be softened up somewhat with heat (try a hair dryer) and then use the CA technique approach. Hope this helps. In terms of what won't stick to the material when weighted down you can use wax paper. And as far as hold downs go try those squeezable pressure clamps (see ERIK, Cutter Cheerful) and a thin plywood spanning port and starboard over the wax paper.

Rusty I want to be just as good as you when I grow up. Only one problem my "shot clock" is ticking down! Outstanding work! You are an inspiration to all of us including the group. Anxious to see the subject in person. Joe

In applying the decking (wood) to the hull surface I asked DAP about Rapid Fuse General Purpose adhesive bonding integrity. The return stated that Rapid Fuse General Purpose will adequately bond wood to ABS plastic. I further asked about the bonding property of Styrene and ABS. The answer was that the bond was inadequate. This pretty much removes the plan to make the bulkwarks out of Styrene. I have been decking this large model in boxwood and mahogany as disclosed earlier. This DAP Rapid Fuse adhesive is growing on me. Small amounts applied to the decking and held for 30 seconds (cure in 30 min) works well. As a matter of fact the adhesive quickly becomes tacky when the planks are laid down. To continue the case for this adhesive, one can lift and reposition the planking, if misaligned, soon after it is laid. No further adhesive is required. If it gets on the topside of the plank it does sand. Otherwise it behaves as CA does especially on one's skin.

Michael I was taken aback by this latest work of yours. Working in wood is one thing but to have a given talent and skill to work in metal is something many of us do not have. Your designs, as well, are truly an inspiration. Appreciate your sharing this with all. You set a very high bar!!!!! Joe

I have decided that the deck should be re-planked with mahogany or a combination of mahogany and a lighter wood such as box wood. I think since most of the deck furniture is mahogany this will blend well. I'd like to try the Alaskan Cedar but it is a tad too yellow I think. Since one of my last posts I came across someone who had trouble gluing down planking with CA glue on ABS plastic. It was commented that the bond doesn't hold up. That is likely why I could lift some planks with a finger nail. I am tempted to try the new DAP "Rapid Fuse" 30 second adhesive. I will have to experiment before I commit to this method. While waiting for the planking material I have moved onto the deck furniture. It is all die cut ply. The curious thing about the parts sheets is that not all of the required parts are on the undisturbed sheets. Not to be outdone, the "plans" do not call them out either. The instruction book is of little help as well. I guess I have been spoiled by the current generation of plans and instructions from our US companies. They are relatively simple structures so I do not anticipate issues. I do perceive a challenge with the bulkwarks as they are missing. I plan to fashion them out of styrene pieces. The challenge is they have a fancy upper edge molding and a lower edge one a well that sits in the rabbett at the sheer line as seen in the picture above.

Here is a view of the completely stripped down hull. The plastic units atop the hull are actually building forms that the cabin and hatch materials are fastened to. The smoke plastic becomes windows when the outer skin is applied. I am slowly getting through the inventory of parts supplied by the owner. Many of the deck fittings I find are missing. I will spend a good deal of time tracking down reasonable substitues for this 1:20 scale model. For example there are 28 stanchions, ships wheel, life boat, air vents and more missing.

After 3 1/2 hours of "prying" deck planks up the hull is now ready for re-planking. Some planks were lifted with a finger nail, others came up with a sharp chisel and prying. The deck was sanded down with 120 grit sand paper to flatten the residual glue/wood. I believe CA glue was used but why it didn't work over the entire deck is somewhat mysterious. The original deck planks appear to have been pine. They came as an accessory package. They are 5 X 1.5 mm and 10 inches long. I am going to use some other material that is more dense and of the patina of boxwood. Oddly the directions do not suggest sealing the final deck surface, rather applying wax is recommended. That doesn't sound at all right to me for a RC model. I read on another web site that the total cost of this vessel if fully outfitted could cost as much as $1800. The base kit was $700 at the time (circa 2012) and "accessories" were priced in the $90 and up range. The wood deck kit for example was $90! I feel it was a crazy way to market this kit. One would get 'sucked in' to a big expense if they were not paying attention,

I have taken possession of the partially completed model (as of this post) and will begin a more detailed inventory of parts on hand and what is missing. Hopefully Krick Manufacturing will come through on the masts and we will see what else shakes out from their inventory as I progress. This thread will be periodically updated with progress. The boat model is 54 inches long at the deck level and 13 3/8 inches of beam. The masted height will be approximately 64 inches. The hull is of high impact molded plastic. The keel is weighted with what appears to be lead. At this stage the model weighs about 45 lbs! Of note on closer inspection it has no transom I will finish it off in mahogany most likely. The deck is partially planked and although there is some extra deck material it is not sufficient. Also some of the deck planking has lifted as the adhesive used has dried up. I am planning a strip down of the deck planking and I will begin anew. Below is a picture of the model as is. I have mounted it on a shop cart as it will necessarily have to be moved around due to it size and work access. The second picture is where I am headed. My client wishes the model to remain static so although there are some RC controls on board they will remain inactive. (Those dangling ball and claw legs in the background are for a distant project). Joe

Sam thanks for answering. I have been tutored by a mutual friend and that is his method as well. If you are interested in selling the Floquil paints please let me know when you are coming to one of our next meetings. I' m stuck on a repair of a 1980's model that is begging for Roof Brown to paint a new rudder. If you have that I would be satisfied with just a bit. Joe

Chris I actually had both saws for a time. I did end up selling the Preac because I didn't find much use for it after the Byrnes saw. It just didn't match up in my estimation. Depth of cut, power, table size were among the limitations I found. Having said that I have often felt that 2 saws would be handy. Set ups on one can be held while the other is roughing out or doing complimentary elements as you suggest. Also if you need to switch blades that can be an advantage of two. Given that you have the two I think the answer is thinking ahead about the task and matching saw capabilities to complimentary or supportive tasks. Even in my full size shop I do not like to move either blade height or fence while in production of parts. If I had two saws I would use one for rough and one for finish milling given they are of the same capability. The other thing one runs into is sometimes is that mistakes can be corrected on the back up device while the other unit is onto something else. The one thing I would not do is mix like parts from one saw to the other. I realize this is a general response but it does "depend". Joe

May I have the information also. I am also concerned about SECURE payment method can you advise please? Thanks Joe

Hands down outstanding!

Is it correct that when I am logged in and active my number shows to me only? Is that how it works?

Chuck my NRG # is showing up in public?????? Joe