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    Cary, North Carolina
  • Interests
    Plank on Frame Construction

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  1. Model Shipways kit for sale...New-in-Box, never started: Pending Sale 1) Model Shipways #1457... 18th Century Longboat Kit...1/48th Scale...$40 postpaid USA via FedEx Ground shipment. Please note I will be selling a number of shipbuilding related items from my workshop in the coming days, including tools and difficult to find modeling books...a result of my realizing my modeling passion is live steam model railroading. Stay tuned for some great stuff that I hope will be helpful to those with a passion for shipbuilding. Best Regards, Cliff
  2. My vote is for dull blade and perhaps wrong type of blade...if using a rip type blade for a crosscutting operation rough cuts will be the result.
  3. My Knew Concepts fret saw has become a "go to" tool for coping and fine cutting work...I never realized how easy coping cuts could be...I wrestled for years with various fret saws...this one is the real deal and worth every penny for quality work!
  4. I've had personal experience purchasing buxus (boxwood) from Rare Woods....wonderful wood and the folks at Rare Woods are a great bunch to deal with...I wholeheartedly recommend them.
  5. As others have said there may need to be some clarification of the desired small hole size in order to establish a "correct" answer....including what is the definition of "small". For creating holes with #60 or smaller drill bits, particularly as one approaches bits smaller than #70, there is no better drill press than the Cameron Micro Drill Press. Cameron is a California based company and their drill presses seem frightfully expensive when first considered, but the spindles run very true and I can regularly drill #80 sized holes without any worry of breaking a bit. Yes, the
  6. More important perhaps that cutting fluid is the need for tools to be absolutely sharp! Rake angle can also be a factor...less is better but only if the tool is dead sharp. And small cuts....
  7. I'm impressed with the speed of your build Toni...I'm still trying to get time between work and family commitments to get my keel laid...seeing your progress I'm beginning to think I have excuses rather than reasons for not advancing my own build!...must remedy that in the coming weeks
  8. Dave, thank you for the mention about the usefulness of the NMM plans for Echo being helpful during the cross section build. I am just beginning my Echo Cross Section build, and had planned on waiting to order the NMM plans until after my cross section was complete. I'll re-think that decision and go ahead and order the plans now to have them for assistance during the Cross Section build...if nothing else having them ready at hand will help me understand how to read the old plans...seems good practice to me for a full frame build. Best Regards, Cliff
  9. Hi aec: Glad you were able to connect with Alexey via your posting here on the forum. Now that Alexey has connected with you I am confident you'll find him prompt with any needed corrective action. My experience with purchase of equipment from him has always been very positive. Best Regards, Cliff
  10. I h ave an old Floquil painting guide...it says wait a week for full paint cure, at which time Floquil will even hold up to its own solvent. This has always been the method I've followed when I need to apply a different finish over Floquil.
  11. Greg, Can you tell if your boxwood that has stayed straight was quarter sawn? I'm particularly picky about wood choice, and I've found over the years that no matter what the species quarter sawn was the way to go for pieces requiring stability. The billets of Castello I'm cutting in the photos accompanying this thread are quartersawn straight grain... the Buxus piece I have is through the center of the log...I'm going to cut it in half, then turn 90 degrees so as to cut slabs that are quarter sawn....should work out I think. Interesting side note is th
  12. Hi Michael: I got some 24"-30" long billets of Castello and Swiss Pear from Gilmer Wood Company...they offer finished wood by the piece...I was able to get a few pieces 1.5"-2.25" thick. Looking just now they are out of stock of pieces of both, although I imagine they have rough boards they could cut from. I also picked up a billet of Buxus via the web...want to do some test cutting of that to see how the denser wood works. I avoid buying green lumber...did that in the past when I had a shop I could dry the wood in long term, but doing so without warpage involves
  13. Just be careful with the heat, and keep the nozzle moving if you don't want scorched wood (or fingers)...Don't ask how I know about this.... I've got a commercial heat gun I've used for electronics and a wide variety of items...One thing that is very helpful is making a "cradle" to hold the heat gun in so you can have both hands for manipulating the part. I can't find mine in the shop just now so cannot post an image, but definitely helpful. Once you realize what a strong, localized heat source can do you'll find all sorts of uses!
  14. Taking advantage of the week between the holidays by trying out my Byrnes thickness sander...making up a "kit" of Echo Cross Section fitting out wood from the Castello I recently cut over at the college craft center. I had allowed .030" oversize when resawing...did finish thickness sanding of four 12" pieces, two 11" pieces, and then one each of 10" and 8.5" stock (1:48 scale)...turns out I had plenty of rough cut wood to work from, even with the uneven cut from the shop blade. In the future I beleive I can start with .025" oversize and be fine. For today's activities, I started
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