Thistle17

This discussion of a new and more ambitious project seems to be creating quite a stir. Surely there is need for a vaccine or pill to slow what appears to be another spread of unbounded enthusiam or a closet of unfinshed models!
 
Present company included. We are all hopeless!!!!
 
Joe

One could have a healthy discussion about the precepts of restoration. When is a replacement part, made anew, but differently, yet retaining the functionaly to  be considered an unfaithful reproduction. Well call it what you wish.  I had to scrap the replacement chainplates. During install they were so delicate that the tip which was a piece of soldered tubing attached to the plate body separated in both accounts. The stress was just too great on this diminuitive part (just about 1mm). I had to remake them much as I and others made Cheerful chainplates. You can find this in Chapter 9 of the Cheerful build log. Basically the chain plate has a tang at its top that is bent into a loop that allows connection of the lower deadeye to the chain plate. In this model there are no deadeyes. There is a looped line that passes through a shackle attached to the formed eye of the bent over tang on the chain plate and the shroud eye to adjust tension.
 
Attached photo is the reconstructed chain plate with shroud lashing installed but not tied off. Tie off is identical to deadeyes.
 
It is no wonder why they were missing on the model when I got it. I will move on from here and not look back.
Joe

Preparations to repair the rigging have gone a bit slower than anticipated. I finally gave up trying to repair the broken brass chain plates that were on the model. Curiously the builder had decided to make them in 3 parts;  a lower section connected to the hull, a mid section that was bent and soldered to sit vertical and the schackle like shroud tether. Between alignment problems and poor solder joints (even after cleaning and tinning they would not hold) I gave up and started anew. The remade versions were one piece straps of 3/32 X 1/32 brass strip bent to the correct angle. The chain plates were fashioned with a narrow tang at the top similar to Cheerful's chain plates.  I must be losing it here is an [EDIT]I am working on 2 models at once, Cheerful and the Sharpie. The Sharpie chain plates were made differently on the original model. A brass strip was made of the dimensions stated and tapered a bit at the top. Atop the narrow end a small brass tubing of 1mm was soldered. To this new pre-formed shackles were attached. They were made this way to faithfully reproduce the original modelers intent. They are much harder to make however.These only need blackening to complete the process.
 
Now the club foot boom termination on the "car" or traveler for the jib was a different story. The model as received was missing the metal work and until I received help from Reuel Parker's article in Professional Boat Builder I was at a loss to come up with a design. In the PDF above, on page 54, figure 3, is what I needed to recreate the element. I tried twice to make the forward metal work but each time the results were either only partial fufilment or were unacceptable product. On the third try I decided to try a different approach. Starting with some 2mm square brass tubing cut to length to include the forward yoke to attach to the car and long enough to simulate the boom strapping.  The yoke holes were then drilled. From earlier experience I knew any files I had were too thick to fashion the yoke ears by removing the top and bottom walls of the tubing so I turned to my Byrnes saw knowing the 0.030 slitting blade could cut through the brass. Holding the piece safely was the problem.
 
Shown in the photo below I cut a narrow slit in a piece of hardwood, trial fitting as I went and flipping the face against the fence for an exact centerline cut. I stopped when I had a strong press fit of the 2mm brass tubing within the slit. It then became a simple matter of moving the fence gradually and subsequently flipping the craddle face against the fence to cut the desired openings. A small section of the piece was left solid on all faces to maintain structural continuity.
 
In turn the boom was shaved slightly to accomadate the newly formed simulated straps. The product is shown below the holding block. What remains is the "in haul" metal work to complete the final missing rigging elements. I don't want to admit to the number of hours it took to get to this point.
 
Joe

Preparations to repair the rigging have gone a bit slower than anticipated. I finally gave up trying to repair the broken brass chain plates that were on the model. Curiously the builder had decided to make them in 3 parts;  a lower section connected to the hull, a mid section that was bent and soldered to sit vertical and the schackle like shroud tether. Between alignment problems and poor solder joints (even after cleaning and tinning they would not hold) I gave up and started anew. The remade versions were one piece straps of 3/32 X 1/32 brass strip bent to the correct angle. The chain plates were fashioned with a narrow tang at the top similar to Cheerful's chain plates.  I must be losing it here is an [EDIT]I am working on 2 models at once, Cheerful and the Sharpie. The Sharpie chain plates were made differently on the original model. A brass strip was made of the dimensions stated and tapered a bit at the top. Atop the narrow end a small brass tubing of 1mm was soldered. To this new pre-formed shackles were attached. They were made this way to faithfully reproduce the original modelers intent. They are much harder to make however.These only need blackening to complete the process.
 
Now the club foot boom termination on the "car" or traveler for the jib was a different story. The model as received was missing the metal work and until I received help from Reuel Parker's article in Professional Boat Builder I was at a loss to come up with a design. In the PDF above, on page 54, figure 3, is what I needed to recreate the element. I tried twice to make the forward metal work but each time the results were either only partial fufilment or were unacceptable product. On the third try I decided to try a different approach. Starting with some 2mm square brass tubing cut to length to include the forward yoke to attach to the car and long enough to simulate the boom strapping.  The yoke holes were then drilled. From earlier experience I knew any files I had were too thick to fashion the yoke ears by removing the top and bottom walls of the tubing so I turned to my Byrnes saw knowing the 0.030 slitting blade could cut through the brass. Holding the piece safely was the problem.
 
Shown in the photo below I cut a narrow slit in a piece of hardwood, trial fitting as I went and flipping the face against the fence for an exact centerline cut. I stopped when I had a strong press fit of the 2mm brass tubing within the slit. It then became a simple matter of moving the fence gradually and subsequently flipping the craddle face against the fence to cut the desired openings. A small section of the piece was left solid on all faces to maintain structural continuity.
 
In turn the boom was shaved slightly to accomadate the newly formed simulated straps. The product is shown below the holding block. What remains is the "in haul" metal work to complete the final missing rigging elements. I don't want to admit to the number of hours it took to get to this point.
 
Joe

Preparations to repair the rigging have gone a bit slower than anticipated. I finally gave up trying to repair the broken brass chain plates that were on the model. Curiously the builder had decided to make them in 3 parts;  a lower section connected to the hull, a mid section that was bent and soldered to sit vertical and the schackle like shroud tether. Between alignment problems and poor solder joints (even after cleaning and tinning they would not hold) I gave up and started anew. The remade versions were one piece straps of 3/32 X 1/32 brass strip bent to the correct angle. The chain plates were fashioned with a narrow tang at the top similar to Cheerful's chain plates.  I must be losing it here is an [EDIT]I am working on 2 models at once, Cheerful and the Sharpie. The Sharpie chain plates were made differently on the original model. A brass strip was made of the dimensions stated and tapered a bit at the top. Atop the narrow end a small brass tubing of 1mm was soldered. To this new pre-formed shackles were attached. They were made this way to faithfully reproduce the original modelers intent. They are much harder to make however.These only need blackening to complete the process.
 
Now the club foot boom termination on the "car" or traveler for the jib was a different story. The model as received was missing the metal work and until I received help from Reuel Parker's article in Professional Boat Builder I was at a loss to come up with a design. In the PDF above, on page 54, figure 3, is what I needed to recreate the element. I tried twice to make the forward metal work but each time the results were either only partial fufilment or were unacceptable product. On the third try I decided to try a different approach. Starting with some 2mm square brass tubing cut to length to include the forward yoke to attach to the car and long enough to simulate the boom strapping.  The yoke holes were then drilled. From earlier experience I knew any files I had were too thick to fashion the yoke ears by removing the top and bottom walls of the tubing so I turned to my Byrnes saw knowing the 0.030 slitting blade could cut through the brass. Holding the piece safely was the problem.
 
Shown in the photo below I cut a narrow slit in a piece of hardwood, trial fitting as I went and flipping the face against the fence for an exact centerline cut. I stopped when I had a strong press fit of the 2mm brass tubing within the slit. It then became a simple matter of moving the fence gradually and subsequently flipping the craddle face against the fence to cut the desired openings. A small section of the piece was left solid on all faces to maintain structural continuity.
 
In turn the boom was shaved slightly to accomadate the newly formed simulated straps. The product is shown below the holding block. What remains is the "in haul" metal work to complete the final missing rigging elements. I don't want to admit to the number of hours it took to get to this point.
 
Joe

Just my two cents here. I tried to improve production on Cheerful by ganging them (4 at atime). Not a good idea as the char and bevel make it difficult to get it done to satisfaction. Removing the char well and getting consistent diameters was the challenge.
 
Rusty you are back at it with a vengence. Wonderful work. Would like to have you featured in January or february if not in person with some of the photos that cover technique. lets talk.
 
Joe

Inspirational! Obtainable, now that might be another story!
Joe

Try this site out. https://www.archtoolbox.com/representation/scale/changescale.html
Joe

One word....exquisite!
Joe

Just my two cents here. I tried to improve production on Cheerful by ganging them (4 at atime). Not a good idea as the char and bevel make it difficult to get it done to satisfaction. Removing the char well and getting consistent diameters was the challenge.
 
Rusty you are back at it with a vengence. Wonderful work. Would like to have you featured in January or february if not in person with some of the photos that cover technique. lets talk.
 
Joe

Just my two cents here. I tried to improve production on Cheerful by ganging them (4 at atime). Not a good idea as the char and bevel make it difficult to get it done to satisfaction. Removing the char well and getting consistent diameters was the challenge.
 
Rusty you are back at it with a vengence. Wonderful work. Would like to have you featured in January or february if not in person with some of the photos that cover technique. lets talk.
 
Joe

And here I thought you had taken time away from the bench. Quite impressive Rusty! In the chosen woods it comes off as an elegant rendition.
Joe

Our group got to see Rusty's model in person last weekend. It is such a warm and rich appearing rendition in pear wood. His execution is skillful aaaaaaaaand all the more so as we remind ourselves that to this point it is all scratch!
Joe

Fairing the inner bulkheads isn't fun no matter how one approaches it. I didn't find anything to like about it on Cheerful save I could say it was done. I am not looking forward to this aspect on this model even though you make the outcome worthy of the pursuit. The cap looks superb. I am assuming there is a outboard detail to be added in the future to the cap??? She is a beauty Rusty!!!!
Joe

Given good weather and your ability to attend our March meeting it would be delightful to see your project. Hope it works out. The choice of wood is going to make such a warm looking model Rusty.
Joe

In furniture making a 1/32" is easily handled without lament. In model ship building it can be dreadful. I have learned the hard way that tolerance build up, even with careful machining on very good model machines can creep in so easily that I have had to adjust my mentality from one project to the other. By golly you are human after all!!!!!
Joe

David the Zoom coverage of your model was so lacking (not anyone's fault, just the nature of remote viewing) at the HRSMS that it did not do your model justice. In terms of fittings, the Florida Sharpie has minimal fittings as i suspect the real craft did, given they were built in "back yards". My sharpie has 4 open chocks at the bow/stern for mooring, two bowsprit cheek mounted blocks for anchor operation and nothing else. The tack rigging is all deck mounted blocks. The rudder is in an aft wheelhouse so not much external there to speak of. Cleats are all located on the main cabin as the helm controlling all but the jib. If that helps.
Joe

This discussion of a new and more ambitious project seems to be creating quite a stir. Surely there is need for a vaccine or pill to slow what appears to be another spread of unbounded enthusiam or a closet of unfinshed models!
 
Present company included. We are all hopeless!!!!
 
Joe

I will give your suggestion a try Ron. Thanks.
Joe

This discussion of a new and more ambitious project seems to be creating quite a stir. Surely there is need for a vaccine or pill to slow what appears to be another spread of unbounded enthusiam or a closet of unfinshed models!
 
Present company included. We are all hopeless!!!!
 
Joe

This discussion of a new and more ambitious project seems to be creating quite a stir. Surely there is need for a vaccine or pill to slow what appears to be another spread of unbounded enthusiam or a closet of unfinshed models!
 
Present company included. We are all hopeless!!!!
 
Joe

This discussion of a new and more ambitious project seems to be creating quite a stir. Surely there is need for a vaccine or pill to slow what appears to be another spread of unbounded enthusiam or a closet of unfinshed models!
 
Present company included. We are all hopeless!!!!
 
Joe

Another example of running a full sytem check of function before the product goes out the door.
You just solved why my system overode my DIY limit switches. Thank you Ron.
Joe
 

Another example of running a full sytem check of function before the product goes out the door.
You just solved why my system overode my DIY limit switches. Thank you Ron.
Joe
 

Another example of running a full sytem check of function before the product goes out the door.
You just solved why my system overode my DIY limit switches. Thank you Ron.
Joe