Thistle17

If it seems I am obsessing over the restorartion of this model it is most likely true. I have such respect for the creator's craftmanship that I feel if I do not try to replicate his work I am doing the person a misservice.
 
There are some wooden parts missing. Namely the port engine hatch and the main cabin doors. given the patina of the aged wood I have been experimenting with different species to see if I can approach existing wood aging. I happen to have a sheet of Alaskan Yellow Cedar that is actually on the orange side.  I had to mill it to .039 in so I lost some of the color but my first coat of WOP seems to be bringing in the correct hue. A few more coats should do it.
 
To the upper right is the hatch. I have built the lid and it is yet to be finished. I show it as further testament to the creator's talent. Observe the "tree nailed" framework of the assembly. This person even treated the inner sleeve that sets down in the hull (of course nobody can see it) with the same detail and  the same precision.
 
To the left are the main hatches for color comparison.
 
Joe

After nearly 4 years of searching, I have finally received information on the identity of the model shown below. It was found in an antique shop in upstate NY by a member of the Modelshipwrights of Western New York much as it appears today. Sadly the member has died and I purchased it from his estate as it is a superbly built scratch model of faithful reproduction. I just could not let it fall by the wayside in the estate liquidation.
 
With the help of members of the Hampton Roads and New Jersey modelers group it was found in the National Watercraft Collection publication by Howard Chapelle. Plans (lines and deck layout) reside in the Smithsonian archives and I have requested a copy to support my restoration.
 
The pictures attached are from my cell phone and as I cannot call myself an amateur photographer they will have to do until I invest in better equipment. The pictures do not do justice to the quality of this model so I add further description.
 
The model is about 27 inches at the waterline with a breath of approximately 6 inches. Given the information in the National Watercraft Collection second edition it would be 1:24 scale as that seems to be the size of the full scale vessel or 55 feet (WL). She is constructed of boxwood.It appears to be fully ribbed internally. I might add that the model has some years of age as the wood has mellowed to a rich creamy  tan color. Everything about this model shouts it is the work of a master modeler. All planking, joinery, fittings, rigging and detail are flawlessly done. All deck fittings are scratch built from ferrous metal. All blocks and rigging treatment are of fine execution. The decking and planking is treated with simulated tree nails. The builder must have familiarized him or her self with construction details that can be found in Chapelle's e book, The Migrations of an American Boat Type, as they are so well reproduced in the model.
 
It needs some work, as in its travels some items are missing or in need of repair. These include some cabin and engine room hatches, the repair of the main well amid ship that has stared to come apart, rigging that needs repair or replacement and it sorely needs a new mounting and case.
 
I would like to document its restoration work for the sake of tje former modeler in hopes that someone out there may recognize her and possibly identify the person who built this fine model.
 
Work will begin when the Smithsonian plan shows up.
 
Joe

In the restoration of this rather exquiste model of a Florida Shapie Fishing Boat which is posted within this forum I have come to a point where I find I am lacking enough information to complete the bow area rigging. David Bennett (NC Maritime Museum) has been very helpful in supplying information for the main and fore rigging but since this area is unique I am asking for help.
 
The first picture I have included shows the bow sprit traveler for the fore stay sail. Note it does not show any evidence of a fore stay shourd forward of the traveler and it seems that the bow shourd is too far forward. There is a fore stay boom (not shown) and its length is just right to fit the distance between this traveler and the tacking traveler aft (second picture). There is a halyard at the very tip of the bow sprit but seems too far away from the traveler to be of use.
 
My questions are: 1. How was the sail boom attached to the traveler?, 2. There seems to be no way to draw the traveler carriage fore or aft as there are no "tie off points" evident., 3. How are the bow sprit side tackles employed in the rigging?
 
Would be most appreciative of any feedback.
 
Joe

Roger you always come through. Simply amazing! You are such a wealth of scholarly information and help. I ended up ordering the book after reading the reviews on Amazon. Why this item never popped up in my internet search I suspect is that I got too specific about what I was searching for.
 
In the interim I did find how the boom was attached to the traveler. What threw me off was remnants of some metal work attached to the traveller eye. That coupled with the fact that the boom forward end was missing a mating piece left me wanting.
 
I am hoping the book will give me further insight into those two pulley elements attached to the starboard and port sides of the bow sprit as their current position (which matches the Chapelle drawing) doesn't seem to allow forward and aft movement of the traveler without some other termination points for necessary block and tackles. Also, as there are no other termination points on the traveler itself, nor any boom collars depicted that might serve as "hauling" points I still am a bit puzzeled how that all works. I am hoping the book helps.
 
It occurs to me that people are wondering about my "reverence" for this model and my deliberate approach to its restoration. I sometimes wonder myself! It starts with my admiration for the original builder. His workmanship, as I have related, is superb and his product is quite faithful to the drawing. I just feel a strong need to honor his work and be as diligent as I possibly can.
 
Joe

Roger you always come through. Simply amazing! You are such a wealth of scholarly information and help. I ended up ordering the book after reading the reviews on Amazon. Why this item never popped up in my internet search I suspect is that I got too specific about what I was searching for.
 
In the interim I did find how the boom was attached to the traveler. What threw me off was remnants of some metal work attached to the traveller eye. That coupled with the fact that the boom forward end was missing a mating piece left me wanting.
 
I am hoping the book will give me further insight into those two pulley elements attached to the starboard and port sides of the bow sprit as their current position (which matches the Chapelle drawing) doesn't seem to allow forward and aft movement of the traveler without some other termination points for necessary block and tackles. Also, as there are no other termination points on the traveler itself, nor any boom collars depicted that might serve as "hauling" points I still am a bit puzzeled how that all works. I am hoping the book helps.
 
It occurs to me that people are wondering about my "reverence" for this model and my deliberate approach to its restoration. I sometimes wonder myself! It starts with my admiration for the original builder. His workmanship, as I have related, is superb and his product is quite faithful to the drawing. I just feel a strong need to honor his work and be as diligent as I possibly can.
 
Joe

In the restoration of this rather exquiste model of a Florida Shapie Fishing Boat which is posted within this forum I have come to a point where I find I am lacking enough information to complete the bow area rigging. David Bennett (NC Maritime Museum) has been very helpful in supplying information for the main and fore rigging but since this area is unique I am asking for help.
 
The first picture I have included shows the bow sprit traveler for the fore stay sail. Note it does not show any evidence of a fore stay shourd forward of the traveler and it seems that the bow shourd is too far forward. There is a fore stay boom (not shown) and its length is just right to fit the distance between this traveler and the tacking traveler aft (second picture). There is a halyard at the very tip of the bow sprit but seems too far away from the traveler to be of use.
 
My questions are: 1. How was the sail boom attached to the traveler?, 2. There seems to be no way to draw the traveler carriage fore or aft as there are no "tie off points" evident., 3. How are the bow sprit side tackles employed in the rigging?
 
Would be most appreciative of any feedback.
 
Joe

If it seems I am obsessing over the restorartion of this model it is most likely true. I have such respect for the creator's craftmanship that I feel if I do not try to replicate his work I am doing the person a misservice.
 
There are some wooden parts missing. Namely the port engine hatch and the main cabin doors. given the patina of the aged wood I have been experimenting with different species to see if I can approach existing wood aging. I happen to have a sheet of Alaskan Yellow Cedar that is actually on the orange side.  I had to mill it to .039 in so I lost some of the color but my first coat of WOP seems to be bringing in the correct hue. A few more coats should do it.
 
To the upper right is the hatch. I have built the lid and it is yet to be finished. I show it as further testament to the creator's talent. Observe the "tree nailed" framework of the assembly. This person even treated the inner sleeve that sets down in the hull (of course nobody can see it) with the same detail and  the same precision.
 
To the left are the main hatches for color comparison.
 
Joe

Welcome Jorge! Please take a look at your fellow countryman's work and web site. He is a distant member of our group (Model Shipwrights Western NY) in the US. He is a professional modeler of the highest nature. He lives in Lisbon. 
Joe
 
Carlos Montalvão: Personal curriculum vitae (résumé) (carlosmontalvao-curriculo.blogspot.com) his bio
Carlos Montalvão - Museum standard ship models (carlosmontalvao.blogspot.com) His web site

Welcome Jorge! Please take a look at your fellow countryman's work and web site. He is a distant member of our group (Model Shipwrights Western NY) in the US. He is a professional modeler of the highest nature. He lives in Lisbon. 
Joe
 
Carlos Montalvão: Personal curriculum vitae (résumé) (carlosmontalvao-curriculo.blogspot.com) his bio
Carlos Montalvão - Museum standard ship models (carlosmontalvao.blogspot.com) His web site

Welcome Jorge! Please take a look at your fellow countryman's work and web site. He is a distant member of our group (Model Shipwrights Western NY) in the US. He is a professional modeler of the highest nature. He lives in Lisbon. 
Joe
 
Carlos Montalvão: Personal curriculum vitae (résumé) (carlosmontalvao-curriculo.blogspot.com) his bio
Carlos Montalvão - Museum standard ship models (carlosmontalvao.blogspot.com) His web site

Chuck if you tap into the Lee Valley web site you will find a trove of information on tool sharpening.
Joe

Thank you both for your input. It appears I have over thought the method. I know I have said this before but I have to say it again. The information sharing of this forum is amazing!
Joe

OK Chuck I have a question. In planking the bow of Cheerful I found that some of the planks fit into the rabbet were less than perfect. Most ended up sprung against the stem member but a few had drifted away from that tight condition. Here is how I was planking the bow:
1. slight bevel on the fore end of the plank on the underside of the plank
2. plank end tapered to the stem angle
2. heat bent around a canister cap with a radius slightly tighter than the bow radius.
3. theoretically the tighter radius when glued in forced the plank up tight against the stem
 
Should I have skipped step one?
Joe

There is a "feeding frenzy" about to happen in these waters. Should I keep to the shore and wait a bit or wade in?
Joe

Ron this is a much improved unit over the 3018 Pro which I have. My one word of caution is the software they supply in their package. Unless they have in like worked on it there will be an uphill learning stage. I will be anxious to follow your "power up" reporting. I could not even run the test programs until I discovered that the Y axis direction needed to be reversed in the on board NVM. It was only after exploring the internet did I find what all the parameters were. One reversed the direction but there were others of the same ilk. Once found however the parameters are a bit obscure in definition so be very careful should you need to change any.
 
I don't know if you are planning on using their CAM program or something more elegant. If you haven't played with the INVENTABLES "CAM" like program you will see what I mean. Actually it helped me discover the NVM error in the Arduino control system.
 
I will be a follower of your travels and likely learn from your experience. Good luck!
 
Joe

Alan these tools in some respects cost more than my full sized versions which date back to the 1990s. As David says I never looked back they are a joy to use and quite frankly are priceless! Saw dust on!!!
Joe

Alan these tools in some respects cost more than my full sized versions which date back to the 1990s. As David says I never looked back they are a joy to use and quite frankly are priceless! Saw dust on!!!
Joe

Alan these tools in some respects cost more than my full sized versions which date back to the 1990s. As David says I never looked back they are a joy to use and quite frankly are priceless! Saw dust on!!!
Joe

Ron this appears to be a much improved version of "front end" capability. It also looks like your off to a much better start up than I had experienced. Npw the G Code Sender, UGS is that free ware?
Joe

Chuck if you tap into the Lee Valley web site you will find a trove of information on tool sharpening.
Joe

Ron this appears to be a much improved version of "front end" capability. It also looks like your off to a much better start up than I had experienced. Npw the G Code Sender, UGS is that free ware?
Joe

Ron this appears to be a much improved version of "front end" capability. It also looks like your off to a much better start up than I had experienced. Npw the G Code Sender, UGS is that free ware?
Joe

Chuck if you tap into the Lee Valley web site you will find a trove of information on tool sharpening.
Joe

Chuck if you tap into the Lee Valley web site you will find a trove of information on tool sharpening.
Joe

Ron this is a much improved unit over the 3018 Pro which I have. My one word of caution is the software they supply in their package. Unless they have in like worked on it there will be an uphill learning stage. I will be anxious to follow your "power up" reporting. I could not even run the test programs until I discovered that the Y axis direction needed to be reversed in the on board NVM. It was only after exploring the internet did I find what all the parameters were. One reversed the direction but there were others of the same ilk. Once found however the parameters are a bit obscure in definition so be very careful should you need to change any.
 
I don't know if you are planning on using their CAM program or something more elegant. If you haven't played with the INVENTABLES "CAM" like program you will see what I mean. Actually it helped me discover the NVM error in the Arduino control system.
 
I will be a follower of your travels and likely learn from your experience. Good luck!
 
Joe