davyboy

I recently obtained a quantity of Boxwood. I actually rescued it from a container of "firewood",the average length of the pieces is around 9" with a diam ranging from 3/4" to 2 1/4". It still has the bark on. I bought a bandsaw today so what would be the best way to cut it for modelling purposes ? I was thinking of just cutting it into slices or is it better to leave well alone until required ? The tree was cut down around 18 months ago so I reckon it should be ok to use.

Thank you,

Dave

Mods,if this in the wrong thread please move it.

Hi cardely,

They are the Falls for the Top Rope Pendants.

Dave

The easiest way to control the depth you want is to push the drill bit into the chuck,collet or pin vice leaving only the length you require protruding. No need for tape or colour marking the drill. Also less chance of breaking a small diam drill. Works every time for me

Regards,

Dave

Hello Daniel,

I have a question for you. How can the rudder pendants be used for emergency steering as shown ? In your photos here and the ones you posted of models (and the Victory) in the other thread all show the chains lashed to eyebolts thus preventing the chain from moving. It stands to reason that there should be ringbolts here to allow movement of the chain    Unless of course some hapless matelot was hung over the stern to cut the lashings in an emergency to allow movement and the ship to be steered   Or am I missing something  

Kind regards and keep up the good work

Dave

It is unlikely that the rudder could unship. A wooden lock was fitted below the upper pintle and gudgeon to prevent the rudder rising upward,this can be seen on the drawing on page 130 of Goodwins' Construction and Fitting. Unfortunately this appears to be missing on the above photo of the H M S Victory.

Dave

Hi, I have been trying to start a new a new topic in the museums and ship models section. I put in the title,write text and upload pix,preview the topic and all looks ok but get no joy. I have read Dannys´post. I have no edit or use full editor captions showing, the only boxes I have are underneath both of which show "post new topic" and "preview topic". I tried the new topic button and that did not give me any edit or post button,believe me,I looked everywhere. I am obviously doing something wrong but have no idea what. I have also tried both basic and advanced method of trying to post with no joy. My laptop runs Windows 7 and I am using Firefox. I have no problems attaching pix to ordinary emails. I should add that I am a computer numpty    Hope someone can help.

Dave

Dip the end of the thread in some cyano glue then cut the thread at an angle. Acts like a needle,will pull through easily.

Dave

Hi all,read this article today,may well be of interest to some of our members. I would imagine some more research will have to be carried out though.

www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2583165/nelsons

Regards,

Dave                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

Paul, You could try the Maritime museum in Aberdeen Scotland they have what I was told is the builders model of the Thermopylae. She was after all built there at the Hall Russell shipyard,perhaps they have plans of her.

Regards,

Dave

Hi Martijn,

Can´t help with UK but check these German suppliers :-   www.arkowood-shop.de

                                                                                            www.modellbau-holzleisten.de

The second one has a big selection of woods in both strip and sheets and is also somewhat cheaper.

Dave

The 50 gun ship Tiger after her 1681 rebuild I think,drawing by Van de Velde. If correct please put another up as I don´t have anything myself. 

Dave

Wonderful Daniel just wonderful. It is hard to imagine what it must have been like on this gundeck with 15 x 32 pounders firing during an action. A medieval vision of hell comes to mind   

regards,

Dave

Per,

Thanks for posting this,I posted an article last month about this collection. Pleased to read that it has been bought by the NMM and not some private collector.

Dave

Hi Robbyn,

Your SF 11 looks really nice with sails. A little tip I read of many years ago re belaying. Pass the line to be belayed through the hole in the pinrail etc then push the belaying pin in the hole. It will hold the line secure while you put on your couple of figure of eight turns,nothing more annoying than losing your hold on the line and it unraveling and slacking off. Can´t be seen once you have put your rope hanks on,yeah,I know that´s cheating

Regards,

Dave

Hi Antony,

I have just looked up ´shot lockers` in my copy of Goodwins´ Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War. He quotes " Similar pieces of timber were worked horizontaly across the transverse bulkheads of the well to support the top and its hinged  access hatches". The only access was through those hatches it would seem as no other access is mentioned or can be seen on his drawing.

I expect some unlucky matelot had to climb in and pass the shot out  No safety footwear in those days

Hope this is of help to you,

Dave     

Hi Adam,

At the time of The Prince (1670) English 1st and 2nd Rate ships and Royal Yachts were usually fitted out with brass guns. Don't blacken them,leave them as they are.

Dave 

Jerry. I am certain that the purpose of this snatch block was as a lead for the Cat Tackle purchase. I don´ t have the Victory AOTS but a snatch block is shown in the Diana and Bellona AOTS books in almost the same place. Was probably a standard fitting as I have also seen them in pix of old Admiralty models. keep up the good work

Regards,  Dave

Hi Jerry,

Glad to have been of help,your replacement looks fine.

@ Kevin,in that pic you posted those snatch blocks would not work either as the entry for the rope appears to be covered over. Has to be clear so the rope can be dropped straight onto the sheave.

regards, Dave

Hi Jerry,your Vic is coming along nicely. However, may I point out that you have glued the Snatch Blocks on upside down,they could not be used this way    

regards, Dave

Hi Fraser,

Should be a very nice model when finished,there were some very nice ships built in Aberdeen. The Thermopylae being the most famous. If you get no joy with a photo from the  Maritime Museum of their model do let me know. My son lives there so I could ask him if he would go and take some pix of her and email them to me,I could then pass them on to you. I would assume one is allowed to take photo´s there.

Regards,

Dave

Christian,

I´ve been following your Diana build for some time. Very nice indeed,you are doing a splendid job on her.

I solved the problem with Jotika deadeye strops by winding a few turns of very fine copper wire tight around the neck and a drop of cyano glue to secure it. Can´t be seen when installed in the channels,I never had any pull apart when tensioning the shrouds. 

Regards,

Dave

Michael,

Can´t see any kit manufacturer producing a kit of a four masted barque these days. I doubt if there would be enough interest to make it financially viable. Do recall that Pamir kit from way back when,think it may have been by Steingräber

As Kester has said,have a look at Brown,Son and Fergusons´website. If you would be interested in doing a scratch build they have plans for 6 four masted barques. Archibald Russell. Herzogin Cecilie. Pommern. Mozart. Parma and Queen Margaret. There are also plans for a 5 master   

Dave

Daniel,

It just gets better and better,absolutely brilliant work. I fully expect that you will be making scale Georgian Furniture for the Great Cabin when you get to that part of your build. Keep up the good work

Dave

Hi Sherry,

The deck marked #4 is over what was called the Poop Royale. This was used on French and Spanish ships as accommodation for the ships Pilots and Sailing Masters. On English ships it was known as the Topgallant Poop and was originally where the Ships Trumpeters lived. 

Dave

Hi Derek,

I  haven´t built this model but FWIW I think they expect you to cut these holes yourself at the correct angle so that the cap is perpendicular to the waterline. The top and bottom edges should run parallel with the bowsprit.  I built the C:C. HMS Cruiser which came with the holes pre drilled,a waste of time as they were not angled. Had to make a new bowsprit cap,easy enough to do that. Also,it´s worth checking out the mast caps. When I filed out the mortises to fit the mast tenons they were much too large because of the size of the pre drilled holes. Had to replace all the mast caps too    all part of the fun of ship modeling I guess     

Regards,

Dave