davyboy

The large PE parts are glued and nailed and the revised wall for the cabine is ready

drilling holes

nails

Did a little further on the transom

PE parts in place

current status

The deck planking is ready and treated with two layers Danish oil.
(The kit provides only plywood for the deck)

The wall from the rear cabin and the hole for the whipstaff (kit)

A new lay out for the wall

New designs (wip) dry fitted

A new base for the mast
A new ladder, and the chimney (wip)
 

Deck planking is done

Holes are drilled an toothpicks for treenailing

Planking the inside of the railing.

Checking if the cannon ports are still in the right place 

And the planking of the deck has begun.
For the deck planking the walnut wood from the kit is used. Excellent quality 👍

Planking
 
Before further planking can be done, a spiral staircase must first be made. Originally this is made of plywood, so a new one is made of pear



The opening is placed more towards the middle, then there is less hindrance with the cannon that is in front of the staircase.

Planking,
this method is found in the book of the Dutch yacht Utrecht.

"Plank bender" 

Planking is ready for sanding

A first sanding with grit 60 has been done

And the plywood supports on the deck are removed

Planking 
 
First planks were placed on which the large PE parts will later be glued.
For the correct position, the height of a cannon was first measured. And this way the position of the first wale can be marked.
Once this wale is glued, the excess part of these first planks is removed and further planking can take place.

Planking, work in progress

Here we go
The plywood is beveled at the keel and bow. And the new keel and stem are ready, these are connected with a scarf joint.


Gluing


Test, pretty ok


Dry test bulwarks, also ok


By using the plywood and the walnut planks as deck, I have to lower the bulwarks and the plywood keel piece at the top by 2mm.


Sawing

To be continued.

The yacht D'Oro from Corel actually looks like the replica (called Sehnsucht) of the Great Yacht from the Brandenburg Navy.
This kit from Corel dates from 1973, the plans and especially the instructions are completely off.
Bought at a very good low price. If you really want to build a yacht from this period. For the same retail price there are better quality options.
 
A challenge ... 👍 
 
I think this the only existing painting of this vessel

 
There is a model in the Maritimes museum in Hamburg


Content of the box
Drawings

"instructions...."

plywood

more plywood

planks and others

fittings

PE parts

The supplied walnut planks for the hull will be used for the decks and such. For the hull itself, planks are sawn from pear wood.

A set of new flags is also made and printed  on tissue paper

Post 16
Sanding the hull
For this I am using flexible sanding blocks and papers. I start with 120 grade papers.

0105
I decided not to use the B&D Mouse sander, seemed overkill on a small hull like this and Limewood is fairly soft to sand.
Indefatigable it ain’t.
Where there were hair gaps between the strakes pva was run in, sand dust sprinkled on, and then sanded in.

0121
I finished off with 180 paper.

0122

0123

0119

0120

0107
The hull seems to have scrubbed up nicely, I’m still amazed when I reach this point that it looks as good as it does given the state before sanding, but the display planking will be a job of a different calibre.
 
The next stage involves fitting the lower stern boards.

0115
These are pre-printed 0.8mm patterns that should just sit above the first planking layer, presumably to meet the second Pear layer.

0116
Worth checking before the hull sanding stuff is put away.

0112

0126
The sanding job has taken around 3 hours, but I will review my efforts tomorrow as a final check.
I will apply sanding sealer to the hull but it’s far too cold in these ‘ere parts for outdoor work, so that will have to wait.
 
B.E.
09/01/2025
 
 

Hi everyone,
 
Thank you, Kevin, for your kind words. It is definitely turning into my life's work after all these years, and many more to go at my current pace. I might as well make it as good as I can!
 
druxey, I agree with your "gazunder" conclusion. Given the geometry of the quarter galleries, the only direct drop from the upper--captain's--seat of ease would discharge directly onto or out of the face of the false window in the quarter gallery below. Not likely. I am sticking with a chamber pot and proceeding accordingly!
 
The stern construction is undoubtedly the most difficult thing I have ever attempted to make. Even planking the upper counter seemed straightforward at first, but the wood is so thin here that I struggled to keep the surface fair while rounding up and aft, and on a curved frame in the vertical direction. I had to redo in order to remove some initial hollow low spots. All is well now, ready for paint. It also strikes me the ridiculous fragility of this entire stern. No wonder captains dreamed of raking their opponents through the stern.
 
Moving to the side lower windows of the quarter gallery,  I had read long ago that the upper and lower boundaries of these windows had to be exactly the same radius, held in the same orientation when the top one is offset to the stern. This is to ensure that the vertical mullions between the three windows are parallel to each other in the x and y axis. If they are twisted, the windows would be twisted and could not be paneled with flat sheets of glass. I thought of it as a cylinder sloped back at the angle of the windows across the stern, and then parallel planes aligned with the sheer of the hull cutting through to define the tops and bottoms. Hopefully this diagram makes this clear. The dotted lines are the lines of the window mullions:
I arranged this by making panels top and bottom to the same template, then ensuring that the curves coming forward made the same angle with the stern moldings top and bottom:
And these resulted in window surfaces that are flat and untwisted. However, the three windows are not geometrically the same, which initially surprised me. Although the length of the sides are the same--since the two planes forming the top and bottom are paralleI--the angles these form with the top and bottom edges of the window are not the same.  The sternmost window has a sharper angle, the middle one somehat less but still sharper than the foremost window.
I eventually realized that this would have to be. The aft most is most parallel to the side of the sloping cylinder, while the foremost is coming around to the fore face of the cylinder, which is less angled relative to the cutting planes. The sides of a window on the front surface would be at right angles to the tops and bottoms.
I also noticed that the changing geometry created an optical illusion. I initially made the three windows the same width fore and aft, then saw that the aft most window looked too skinny relative to the other two. I made a number of paper templates installed in the openings, varying the widths until they "looked" the same width. It turned out that the aft most had to be made wider, then the middle a little less but still wider than the foremost window.
 
Here is the result with the final paper templates:
 

I also discovered the reason for the little scroll work carving at the fore end of the windows, which shows up in every  74 gun ship of this era. It hides the fact that the fore edge of the foremost mullion is not parallel to its aft edge; the upper edge has to be longer than the lower edge in order to fair to the side of the hull. This would have been visually clunky, so they disguised it with a little carving to cover it up.
 

 
Looking forward, here are paper templates of the upper works:

Still a lot to do!
 
Mark
 

I put 2000 wooden nails into the side of the ship. I put wooden nails into the light wood, and copper nails into the black wood. I also make gun ports.

It is now time to start the Harpy build in earnest. The first task was to remove the bulkheads from the MDF sheets. There are 17 bulkheads in total. There are laser engraved guide lines on bulkheads 1, 2 & 3 which enable these parts to have the initial pre fairing bevelling. I really like this design aspect.

I used a combination of a Ginour rotary tool and sanding stick to bevel these bulkheads to the guide lines. Bulkheads 1 -16 were then inserted into their respective positions on the keel, ensuring they were all fully engaged. As per normal with the Vanguard Model builds no glue is used as this stage.

The keel is very flimsy so thankfully this is soon corrected when the two keel doublers are added. To ensure these keel doublers are correctly aligned they are held in place using a series of locking keys.

The basic hull frames is then strengthen further when the two longitudinal support parts were pushed into place.
 
It was then time to check the installation of the two lower deck bases. No problems were encountered. There are locking keys to hold these deck bases in place, once fitted. However, before that can be done the laser engraved deck patterns need to be glued to the deck bases.

When removing the removing the bulkheads I also removed all the other parts from the MDF sheets which were
a) the various gun port jigs
b) the sail room framework
c) Two stern cabin frameworks.

When test fitting the forward laser engraved deck pattern there seemed to be a slight alignment issue when using pins located in the eyebolt openings. When I positioned the laser engraved deck using the sail room frame, I was much happier with the overall alignment, but I may need to use a micro drill for some of the eyebolts. In the photo below the laser etched deck is only dry fitted as I was checking which rubber bands would be best to hold the deck in place while the glue cures. I also want to check the other items will fit in the various positions before I commit to gluing the parts in place.

When looking at the laser engraved scuttles, I did consider copying Blue Ensign approach to plank the deck base and to add scuttle covers but after a little bit of thought I have decided to just use the laser engraved deck pattern as is. I will plan to follow Blue Ensign idea to fit a printed brick pattern for the stove base area as I think that it really enhances the build. I have also ordered some different hinges and handles from Syren which I will use for all the internal panel doors, as I really liked the ones Blue Ensign has fitted.

Post 15
Completion of first planking
I am now planking alternate strakes from wale down and keel up.

071
My usual approach is to get a final spiled plank beneath the round of the hull.

078
As I proceed, I can see that the stern area would require more planks than the standard 5mm midships planks, resulting in the need of several stealers to fill in.
As it turned out I‘ve needed to adopt a combination of techniques to get the hull planked. Tapering, Edge bending, spiling, drop planks, and even a stealer at the stern.

086

088
I used a drop plank at this point.

090

091

096

093
The final piece of the jigsaw is a stealer and the first planking is complete.

097
Note; the stealer doesn’t end in a point but is squared off and cut into the adjoining planks against a frame.
Not critical on a first layer, but it should be the arrangement on a show layer should stealers be required.

0100
I am fairly well content at this point, not an arrangement I would accept as a single planking display, but as a base for the second Hardwood layer it is fine.

0104
I am pleased to note that even at this rough stage the hull conforms well to the build cradle.
Time to clean up the hull.
 
B.E.
08/01/2025
 

I guess the "Little" in "Little Machine" refers to the size of the shop not the size of the machines it sells.

Guiding the bowlines for the main topgallant sail - and the main royal sail
During the further detailed coordination in the upper levels of the rigging for my French corvette, it had to be clarified how the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail should be deflected in the rear area of the topmast crosstree. In the monograph on La Créole by J. Boudriot, deflection blocks are indicated. However, further concrete details are not apparent.
I therefore tried to clarify this detail by taking photos of the original model. Unfortunately, I was unable to find any useful illustrations. Only the monograph contains a photo of the topmast crosstree (see picture). In addition to the main topgallant stay, the bowlines for the main topgallant sail and the main royal sail are clearly visible. However, the deflection of the bowlines is not clearly recognisable. It appears to be a rectangular crossbar with integrated discs, at least in my opinion.

Source: Monograph on La Créole by J. Boudriot
 
It is certain that these are not blocks, which would be usual for this purpose.
As I was unable to find anything else on this subject, neither in the relevant specialist literature nor on the Internet, nor on original models from a comparable period, I will contact the restorers at the Paris museum. A very friendly lady has already helped me a lot.
But perhaps one of you has already come across a similar detail. I would be very pleased to receive any relevant information.
 
See you soon ... 
 

No work for a week allowed me to shape and add the quarter piece and finish up the last cant frames. When I started fairing the last cant frames I knocked a frame loose. So after reinstalling the loose frame I added some stiffeners just like Mike did. These will be hidden by the planking. I have also added the upper port sills. The entire hull has so far been sanded with 120 grit. I'll progress to 400 grit. Once the sanding is completed I'll do the stern framing.

If the wood tends to split try thinner pieces for a laminated assembly.
make them a bit wider then you need because they might shift when glued but as they are oversized you can sand them to the proper width after the glue dries.

I have never heard that explanation before.
 
In this discussion:
Question on use of crowsfeet on ship rigged vessels - Masting, rigging and sails - Model Ship World™
 
It is suggested that " ..Crowsfeet were designed to prevent the foot of the fore and main topsails from getting caught under the tops. "
 
That is what I have always understood their purpose to be.
 

This image from another discussion, shows how it was rigged.
 
Here is another post that shows a little more detail of how it was rigged.
 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/2293-rattlesnake-by-jsgerson-finished-mamoli-164-using-robert-hunt’s-practicum/?do=findComment&comment=333009

Actually, the function of the these crowsfeet is to prevent the topsail from getting caught beneath the top.
 
Regards,
 
Henry

Happy New Year All! Further slow progress on the Fat Belly. The hanging knees are installed in quarterdeck and forecastle. Note that some are obliquely placed to avoid gunports and I believe are called dagger knees. All deck beams remain removable so I can complete deck furniture and install the elm-tree pumps etc. The main double capstan has been made.




Cheers
Dick

A little bit of a progress, two more frames to go...





Happy modelling..

Thank you for your kind words. Now I'm sitting here with red ears from embarrassment. I realize you're joking when you compare me to Netflix. But just in case, I still wonder which actor could play me in a movie? I'd like it to be Tom Hanks. I'm ready to sign a contract now. 😄
 
I've always looked with particular envy at the fact that your avatar has a reference to Versailles in the location. One day I might pack my bags and go to France and visit the museums. It's a very longtime dream of mine. And now I've also read about your collection in the glass cases. And my curiosity is just bursting out. Your house must look like this? In my imagination, that's exactly what it must look like.
 

 

 That's it, I'm going to get on with my work. If I can finish this project with Fulminant, I'll have a better chance of getting Tom Hanks to agree to play me in a movie. And then I'll be famous and I'll definitely be able to go to Paris.
 

A major step forward (at least in my opinion). The 'Duchess is now boasting a sail!  Obviously a bit more work to do before this sail is complete on the model, but at least it's there! Only 33 more to go.
 
Concerning sails:
I broadly followed Tom Lauria's method with silkspan. I found the silkspan much easier to work with than I anticipated - it seems pretty strong and stable considering its structure. Having said that, I would highly recommend handling it carefully when it's wet (don't ask me how I know that); dry - it's great. I painted my silkspan with one coat of flow acrylic on one side and that seems to be sufficient - the paint soaking through the sail. I used a 'toy' iron as Tom demonstrated to iron down the linings and that worked very well - both sealing the dilute PVA glue and smoothing out the wrinkles at the same time. I had no issue with having a little too much glue on the seam. I tried furling a test sail in the workshop by spraying it with a fine mist of water and then coaxing it into folds; it worked well; hopefully the same will happen on the model.
 
Edit: In mentioning the delicacy of wet silkspan above, I should have clarified that I meant really wet - in this case the corner of a jib was soaked with glue and I was silly enough to try and fiddle with it.
 
John
 

 

@albert
I am very pleased and grateful for such nice comments.
Of course, professional advice and comments, even critical ones, are also welcome.
Nobody is perfect and life is a constant learning process.
Here are some more details:
 
Additional blocks, including in the area of the topmast crosstrees
I should have recorded most of the blocks for the La Créole by now. The blocks in the area of the topmast crosstrees and on the mainmast cap still need to be made, as can be seen in the following pictures. These are blocks for guiding leech lines, braces and bowlines.
When guiding the braces for the mizzen topgallant yard, I am following the Paris model, where they go to the mainmast cap. The variant shown by J. Boudriot in the monograph, guiding the braces to the main topmast crosstrees, seems less practical to me for stability reasons on the high-rigged corvette.


 
In addition to making these blocks, I am currently still trying to figure out which blocks I still need for the upper area of the rigging on the royal topgallant crosstrees. I don't think there will be too many left.
To be continued...
Feedback geben