davyboy

Another part of the decoration added. 
And then the sun came out....look at the last photos, it must have been a breathtaking sight at sea in this weather.
 
Jan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Evening pics, along rigging my ship : 2048 knots, 68% of the total, I hope you will like it, as I do myself :
   
 

Day 384-50
good afternoon everyone, thank you for likes
 
a lot of tidying up has been done on the foremast, and a lot of lines have now been added  to the main, hence the clips just taking the weight
few extra lines are

 
 


and a few photos of how she looks this afternoon

In 1741, Tyger measured 130 feet long and weighed 704 tons. It carried six 6-pounders on the quarter deck, twenty-two 9-pounders on the upper deck, and twenty-two 18-pounders on the gun deck.
Source: Rediscovering HMS Tyger (U.S. National Park Service) (nps.gov)

They were just experimenting with fiberglass cannons.
 
Alan

I'm nearly at the end hull sanding.


I just needed to build up the keel slightly.

I also needed to get the transom to the correct shape and "fix" the shape by attaching a pre-shaped piece of ply. Shaping the ply took a bit of fiddling with card templates but eventually I sorted it.


I have had enough woodworking for a while so I am now figuring out how to make rudder post.


I plan to make this out of brass. The key complication is that the lower portion (red arrows) is somewhat thicker than the remainder of the frame surrounding the screw. I plan to fabricate it out of 3 pieces of 0.1" brass plate.

In drawing the yellow is the 0.1" portion while the orange is the thickened 0.3" portion.
 
 
 

I continue with the structures of the head:
 









 
 
 

Fixed blocks
This weekend seemed to be a good time to get started on the fixed blocks. Six are on the ship with the two really small ones near the transom completed, but off the ship. I'm not sure if I will add them before or after planking that area. I decided to scratch them, using the mill to make the slot between the two holes.
 
When I originally drew in the upper wale location with the hull template, I also marked the location of the blocks. I could have gone with that and it would have been fine. However, since I started the build I've tried to measure off the plan sheet whenever possible. So, here again, that's what I did. I only needed to measure and drill the position of one of the two hole locations for each block. Then it was just a matter of establishing the distance for the second hole while aligning the top of the block parallel to the shear.
 
Here is how I made the tiny rounded shape representing the sheave. It's only .020" deep.



Mike

Hello, and thank you for your comments and likes
today the carpenters repaired there mistakes from yesterday and finished the back side of the bulwark. Then they also build the doors. The shipwright is this time pleased and spend a beer. 😊



 

Fore Topsail Mast Ratlines
I am now in the process of adding the ratlines to the fore topsail mast. The first task was to make a template and then clamp in place. In the photo below I have already added a few ratlines. As explained in previous posts I prefer to add every 5th ratline first, as indicated by the 0's on the template. I then add all the 1's before completing the task by adding all the 2's

It took me a couple of hours to complete one side. A couple of the deadeye seizing's could have been done better (i.e. the middle and right hand end ones) but I can live with how they look which is all that matters. Work is now progressing to complete adding the ratlines to the other side.

 

Post One Hundred and Fifty- eight.
 
Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part One)
This is the one boat example that I may include on the skids of my Indy.
I think the Pinnace is the nicest looking boat type and my go to for display on a ship.
 
I have built an example of every boat type in the Vanguard range, and my detailed logs are elsewhere on MSW, most recently on my Sphinx log.
 
My approach in building the Pinnace will be as previously recorded, so I’ll include less detail with this log. 
There are a few areas of approach to building these bijou boats that may be of use to others.
 
Setting up the frames.
These are delicate parts and I like to protect the framing, and I add support pieces to protect the bow and stern.

3981
These slotted strips protect the very delicate stem by avoiding the risk of flex when fitting the first strakes.

3979
At the stern the transom is secured square.

3982
This is a weak part and support boards are added to reduce any risk of flex during fairing or attaching the planking strakes.
 
The planking strips are nominally 2mm x 0.8mm and as I found with the Sphinx Pinnace, they have very little excess in length to accommodate edge bending which applies very near the bow end.

3984
Both lateral and edge bending and also a degree of taper is required to maintain the flow of planking. These features were applied once the first plank had been installed.

3988
The first four planks fit into the stem rabbet, followed by the addition of the Garboard plank. For the Garboard I used a wider 3mm strip.

3993
Planking continues to completion.
The final spiled plank that sits below the round of the hull is traced onto Tamiya tape and cut out of the 0.8mm Pear fret.

3998

3999
Three days’ work and the planking is completed, albeit still in a rough state.
This will be cleaned up before moving onto the next stage.
 
B.E.
16/03/2024

Sort of interesting news story.  Wreck was found in 1993 but archeologists are now taking a closer look.
 
50-gun frigate HMS Tyger
 
Now, get this quote from the article:
 
Really.

Dear all
 
A bit of progress but a also a bit of a milestone: The deck is done! Still needs lots of work, treenails, sanding, caulking etc but the arrangement seems ok - I hope in the end it will look more tidy. The wood is maple but has a different color than the maple used for the inner planking. One of the planks aft stands out as, not sure where I cut it from but it needs to be replaced.






Take care all
Vaddoc

Well, @MrBlueJacket's adage that "putty and paint make it look what it ain't" seems to be starting to come true. I've put the four starboard side balsa inserts in and faired them. The aftmost is going to be made from basswood since it is going to define the stern's curve. At this point I need to go to the hobby shop and get some more balsa, that chunk didn't go quite as far as I expected. But starting to look like a ship.
 

 
Thanks for looking in!
 
Regards,
George

Siggi, it's beautiful as is. 

Hello, and many thak for your likes
we where busy here with the aft bulwark. That is the plan

and here the (third!) raw bulwark

Today we finished the outside of the bulwark

When I saw this picture, I think there is some work left for tommorow. Some of the plinths have to go.

In 2023 bouwde ik een model van een kogge, een schip dat van belang was voor de handel tussen ca 1250 en 1450.
Ik bouwde hem, niet vermoedend dat het Stedelijk Museum in Zutphen daar lucht van kreeg. Men vroeg mij het model onderdeel te laten worden van een expositie over de Hanzetijd, waar dit schip een grote rol in speelde.
Het verslag ga ik laten zien in drie delen. Ik maak op voorhand excuses voor mijn niet perfecte kennis van de Engelse taal, maar ik koos er toch voor dit in het Engels te doen. Er komen veel termen in voor die niet goed in computertaal in het Engels zijn weer te geven.
 
RECONSTRUCTION OF A COG
Scale 1 : 87, Built in 2023
 

 
This reconstruction is exactly based on the measurements and construction of
an excavated shipwreck in Holland in 1983, registrated; Oz 36, known as Nijkerk II.
 
The results were in 2021 published by the archeologist Karel Vlierman in 2021 ;
  “Coghen, kleene coghen ende schuten”.In this publication you find detailed drawings of the excavated parts and a reconstruction of the hull.
The German book: ; “Die Kieler Hansekogge, der Nachbau eines historischen Segelschiffes von 1380”, written by Uwe Baykowsky, 1991, was a great help especially for the rigging and the missing parts of the ship such as the mast and the yard.
 
The wreck is until now the most complete cog which is excavated, The starboardside of te hull was almost complete.
A lot had to be reconstructed on paper but the result is very satisfactory.
Combined with remains of other excavated cogs it was possible to build this model
 
Dendrochronologycal the ship was build in 1320, and wrecked around 1355.
 
No remains werd found of the mast, rigging and rudder. Only a few marks point to the posibility of a castle on the stern.
In the publication of the excavation nothing is mentioned about the sailing capabilities, also the lenght of the mast is not reconstructed.
 
Before I started I did a lot of investigation to Mediaeval pictures  Mainly concerning the rigging, the mast and the sail. 
 
Planking the hull
 
The model is made of Mahogany vener. Attached on a frame of triplex. The keel, bow and stern are made of pearwood, attached to the long middle frame of triplex
 

 On the middle frame I attached the frames at first on the righet side and filed them in the correct shape of the hull. After that I made exact copies of all the frames on the left side and attachede them also on the middle frame.
 
I started planking at the keel. All excavations show that the first three planks near the keel were carvel built connected, but only in the middle. Going to the stern and to the bow this construction changed in clinker built  planking. The rest of the hull is entirely clinker built.
The wreck showed that the hull on each side consisted of 15 planks, clinker built. I made this amount also on the model.
 

Every plank consists of three or four parts, just like the real excavated planks
 

The bow during planking before sanding and filing
 
 
 

On the sternpost curved timbers were nessesary. Here the timbers in paper, before making them in wood. Most wooden constructies on the deck  consit of several layers of veneer, glued upon each othter until the exact thicknesses.
 

 
Above the deck the planks are attached on a number of frame timbers which are visible above the deck. In the model I made the same amount as found in the real ship. The upper plank was needed to attache them.
 

 Before placing the frame timbers I removed stsp by step all the temporary upper triplex parts of the frames.
 
 

Fore Topsail Shrouds
I am currently working on installing the shrouds for the fore, main and mizzen topsail masts.
 
I have added the shrouds to the fore topsail mast, and the lanyards are now ready to be tied off, as can be seen in the photo below.

I started the process by making all the shroud pairs for all three topsail masts. The shrouds were run through some beeswax which was then melted using a hairdryer  and were then left hanging with a slight weight to help get rid of all the kinks.

It will then a case of adding the shrouds to each of the topsail masts and adding the deadeyes.
 
Starting with the fore topsail mast all the shrouds were added. As then were run in I used some clamps to keep them in the approx positions.
 
The deadeyes have been added to the first shroud pair and the lanyards threaded in the next couple of photos.

I am using my tried and tested method to adding the deadeyes. The jig prongs are inserted into the platform deadeyes. The shroud is then feed down through the top guides and through the bottom hole. A clamp is used to apply some tension to the shroud.

Next a needle with some seizing thread is passed through the top hole in the jig. This should ensure that each shroud deadeye is set to the same position above the platform deadeye once the lanyards have been added.

It is then an easy job to make the loop the loop. A deadeye can then be placed in the shroud and the free end is then be pulled which closes the loop around the deadeye. As the lanyards are been run in I am pleased that the shroud deadeyes seem to be nice and level with each other. I will need to make the final adjustments when the lanyards are tied off.

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

Head room, I feel certain. Analogous to a companionway on later designs.

So I am so close to listing the first two chapters folks.   Maybe Sunday or Monday.  I have one test shipment going out to get an idea of shipping across the country.  Once I know that I will list the remaining sets I have made for sale on the site.
 
I have one favor to ask....Please read below.
 
I am NOT limiting production so no need to jump on this.  In fact if you are not ready to start a build log and start building immediately I would ask that you wait for the next batch of chapter sets.  Seriously asking here.  If you are currently working on a model and are several months or even a year away from starting Speedwell,  It would suck for these to sit on a shelf.  Especially when I know of at least ten guys who are waiting patiently to begin building Speedwell right now.  I know some of you are more than a year away from starting so please dont buy from this batch.  I will be making more consistently for the next few months before I start even thinking about making chapter 3 parts.  There will be plenty of opportunity.  Let the guys ready to start building get first crack at these please.
 
Also if I havent mentioned it....this will be a big model.   If you plan on rigging her it will be 52" long or thereabouts.....and about 40" tall.   The hull unrigged is 32" long.   So keep this in mind.  Remember its a 3/8" scale model.  A big girl.....
 
The chapter sets will come with printed plans.   Sheets one and two with the first chapter of parts.   The remaining will come with the chapter sets when needed.  Here are a few just to give you an idea.
 



 

That's not me, that's Liteflight. I accept no responsibility for him . . . 
 
The wide stance is well on the way . . .
 


Here's close-ups on their faces.


Steven

I would love to, but that would be one hell of a commute!

The fenders (skid beams) and steps are on both sides of the ship in most cases that I have seen.  Note the two contemporary models from RMG below as just two examples. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of other examples on their website.
Allan
 

 

Dear all
 
Many thanks for your comments and likes.
@Dr PR You are right re: epoxy Phil, but I ve used beech wood - couldn't have made a worse choice!
 
I ve lost count how many times I have had to go back to the hull. It keeps on changing shape, new cracks appearing, planks shifting, it follows the change of seasons and when it reaches equilibrium with the ambient moisture the planks go walkabout. I am waiting for the weather to get warmer so I can paint and varnish it and then leave it to cycle through its moods. For now, I ve just used some more filler - Ill sand it smooth tomorrow. 


I am using Osmo filler which is wonderfull stuff, run out of beech colour so using colourless but I ll prime the hull so it does not matter.
 
I finished the inner planking and sand it smooth - ish. I ve been scratching my head for some time now, not sure how the floorboards should be arranged. There is a substantial curve at the sides where the floor meets the side planking. Not sure how this would have been made
 




In the meantime, I made another model with my 7 year old daughter - a school project. The photos are terrible but you may just make out the cotton at the top of the chimneys. We really enjoyed the juice previously contained in the hull.



Till next time
 
Vaddoc