Canute

Thanks Phil!
For painting, the degreasing process is of primary importance. Surface roughness is secondary.
I degrease surfaces with caustic soda (NaOH).

Valeriy,
 
Nice work. I notice that you brush the metal. I usually do this with a motor tool and wire brush to remove excess solder. But does it also give enough "tooth" or roughness for paint to adhere?
 
Or do you etch the brass before painting?

Everything shown in the photos is soldered without using a radiator. I very rarely use a radiator.
In this process, you need to determine the correct soldering sequence. First, the most massive parts are soldered and only after that the small parts are soldered. In this case, you can do without a radiator.

Excellent metal work as usual.
 
What do you use as heat-sink to prevent parts already soldered from falling apart?

Thank you all for your feedback and likes!  
And I have a small continuation of brass soldering.  These are the upper tiers of the bow superstructure.

That adds charm to the name. Possibly it should be twinned with the village of Little Piddle on Dorset (I believe)
Alan

Thanks Ken. So far the Trumpeter parts look quite nice and seem to fit.
alan

Thanks Mike. This is the final choice of camouflage. It seems to be a verifiable scheme - and I like it.

Alan 

Thank you very much Andrew. It was a nice relaxing project 
alan

Another wonderful build Alan. 

Thank you Craig and OC, besides modeling, photography is one of my hobbies. I used to work semi professional in analogue times, but stepped out with the digital age, because I didn´t like the results earlier digital cameras were able to achieve and my go to analogue material became next to impossible to find. 
Long story short, since some years, I own a decent digital camera with good lenses and try my luck. Photographing model kits is not so easy. You need good lighting, solid depth of field and macro capabilities. I´m still in a learning process and have a long way to go.

Photographed skillfully, the MFH kits nearly pass as real cars with all their brimming detail.

Cheers Rob

It looks so real.
 
OC.

Amazing work and fine photography, Rob.  Whew!!

Today I achieved some very important and daunting steps, but firs things first.
I finished the front section with all the parts added for the axle, brakes, steering and suspension. Some were a bit fiddly, but in all, the fit was great with that delicate section. It´s also quite robust. The axle screws are loose by design and therefore hanging on the pic.





Next was the daunting part, the closing of the main body. There are so many intersecting parts, that even test fitting is a time and nerve consuming affair. Finally I got it done and everything fitted with a tiny bit of tweaking here and there. The floor pan and body are hold together with eight screws.





Finally, I test fitted the engine section to the body and luckily everything fit as well.



Cheers Rob

Take a look at some of the Native American steeds. The Lakota Sioux were known for some flashy mounts. Or the Napoleonic cavalry. Quite ornate.

Take a look at some of the Native American steeds. The Lakota Sioux were known for some flashy mounts. Or the Napoleonic cavalry. Quite ornate.

Take a look at some of the Native American steeds. The Lakota Sioux were known for some flashy mounts. Or the Napoleonic cavalry. Quite ornate.

Should be an interesting build. I'm in.

Take a look at some of the Native American steeds. The Lakota Sioux were known for some flashy mounts. Or the Napoleonic cavalry. Quite ornate.

Quite the formidable warrior, Alan. And you cranked it out fast. 👍

I love our laser.  This is one side of the forward house.  The top piece is .015" laserboard and has the mullions for the windows.  It will be laminated to the inside of the bottom piece which is 1/32" basswood.  The square and rectangle on the bottom piece are the window frames which are .015" laserboard.  When the house is completely built and painted, .010" clear styrene with its back side painted black will be glued to the inside of the inner lamination.  Both houses will be built this way.

To be fair, Wyoming would have had a tough time getting in and out of the harbors at Arena Cove, Greenwood, Albion, Little River, Mendocino, Caspar, Noyo, Port Kenyon, etc. 😉

Damn...BlueJacket makes some wonderful kits.
 
They are my go to for fittings I need on my scratch build projects - it's the closest type of fittings that I need, as nobody makes fittings for great lakes ships (modern ones).

Just for giggles... WYOMING and the West Coast Lumber Schooner - same scale (1/96)

Dear fellow modellers,

After quite some time, I now have some progress to report on my part.
Since I am building a transom model, it will later face the viewer with its stern facing forward. I was a little bothered by the fact that when looking into the model through the stern cabins, you are looking into empty space, so to speak. To remedy this, I added a rear wall to form the missing bulkheads to the ship's interior. Below are a few pictures of the first stages of construction with the bench in front of the upper gallery windows, the deck beams and the rear wall:
 


 



 
In order to get a good view of the interior later on, it was necessary to provide lighting. There are numerous options for model making here, which are more or less complicated, time-consuming and expensive. In the end, I chose the most primitive option imaginable and purchased a string of lights from Roßmann for €2.95. The small LED lights have a diameter of approx. 3 mm, very thin cables and are spaced 8 cm apart. I made a drawing of the lanterns and petroleum lamps that I had in mind as fittings and asked Igor Capinos to draw and print them in 3D, which I think he did very nicely.
 

 

 

 
Installing the lighting in the upper part of the model went quite well, as I still had access from above, but in the lower cabin it was a compromise, as I had to run the cables under the ceiling beams, which of course is not so nice.
 

 

Here are some pictures of the installed lighting on both levels:
 






I still need to work on the fit of the rear wall here.
 



 
This was followed by the completion of the aft deck with the offset above the arched canopy. My design here is speculative, as the original model does not show the built state here.
 

 
I inserted a bulkhead in the front area and added a deck to the upper platform.
Later, ladder ascents and brackets for the hackboard will be added there.
 


Finally, a few pictures of the overall model as it looks now.
 





The LED-light seems to be extremely bright, that is an effect of the camera of my mobile-phone. In reality it is more warm-white.
 
Best regards,
Matthias