Canute

Apologies that this is not a proper build log, as I actually already finished the boat, but I thought I would post it here anyway as it might contain some useful information for anyone building this boat him/herself. For that purpose, I have inserted some 'tips' into the build log, things which I noticed and might be of use to others. There is, at the moment, one other build log for this boat on ModelShipWorld, by Catopower (link) and anyone thinking of building this boat should definitely check that log out as it is great, and far, far superior to this sorry excuse for a 'build log' I created here. Catopower's build log also contains a good description of the kit, so I won't bother with that in mine.
 
I started this kit about two months ago and finished it last week; all in all, it probably took me about fifty hours or so from start to finish. As a novice and not very talented builder, even I found the whole process very easy - and very enjoyable. The kit is of good quality and the instructions, although in Japanese, which I cannot read, are very clear. Every single step is explained in high quality photographs, with minimal text which, if so desired, can easily be translated into English or other languages using Google Lens, a free app for both Android and Iphones.
 
The kit is a conventional plank on bulkhead model, making the internal construction, as I understand it, quite different from what it would actually have looked in a Japanese period boat of this kind as they did not use the Western style plank on frame method. But that is all 'under the hood' and invisible so does not really matter for the final appearance.

 
The fit between frames and false keel was great - resulting in the picture below.

 
The hull is subsequently made by attaching the pre-shaped hull planks to this frame, only two per side. The two hull planks slightly overlap, leading to a kind of clinker build. Subsequently, the deck is constructed out of several loose planks, in several parts.

 
Tip 1: the wood is of a Japanese cypres, which is beautiful (and surprisingly fragrant) but very soft. Finger nails, pieces of dried glue on the cutting mat, etcetera, all make dents in it very easily, so take care when using it. It also sands very quickly, so is easy to over-sand.
 
Tip 2: the wood has a range of colours, from light beige to quite a bright shade of red. They enhances the appearance of the boat, but I also demands a bit of planning when, for example, making up the decks. You will probably want to vary the different shades accross the decks, to create a more balanced appearance. I only found this out when it was partially already too late.
 
After installing the decks and some other parts, it was time to install a walk plank + railing on both sides of that where - eventually - a little house will be placed, in which guests could be entertained, which was the ultimate purpose of this river pleasure boat. Constructing those railing is not difficult, but take care to follow the curvature of the boat when making them, or they will not properly fit later.

 
Here they have been installed onto the boat.
 
Tip 3: between the walking planks and the house, there is a gap, which shows the internal construction of the boat. This is, I feel, an oversight by Woody Joe, and is a bit ugly. It will hardly be visible once the boat is finished, but it won't be entirely invisible either, so I chose to fill it with a filler on each side, made from some scrap pieces of the wood supplied in the kit. The gaps are visible in the photo below, taken before insterting those fillers.

 
At this time, I created the little sliding doors, which will later be used in the house. There are twenty of those, and they consist of seven elements each. I found this the most fiddly and least enjoyable part of the build. The glueing surfaces are small, and it is difficult to keep everything exactly square. And precision is important here, otherwise the doors won't slide when placed in their slots later. And there are no spares, which brings me to:
 
Tip 4: although the kit is of high quality, Woody Joe has been a bit stingy with materials. The amount of material is just enough to create everything. You will have virtually nothing left over at the end of your build. So, take care not to make any mistakes, particularly since the Japanese cypres wood is very difficult to get if you don't actually live in Japan. This is not meant as criticism of the kit, merely as a warning to take things slowly so no material goes to waste.
 
Some pictures of the sliding doors below:

 
Tip 5: One are where I felt an improvement could/should be made was at the stern. The internal construction of the boat is visible here, if looking at the ship straight from the back. I inserted some filler pieces made out of scraps here, to hide this, as I thought it looked off. If you want to do this as well, it is much easier to do at the beginning, before you attach the side planks. I found out too late, making the fitting more difficult. Photo's below show the stern before and after fitting the filler pieces.

 

 
Tip 6: The kit comes with 150 or so little copper rectangles, which need to be fitted to the side planks. To ensure that they were spaced evenly, I used the true-scale drawings, from which I cut out all the little rectangles, attached them to the boat and traced the rectangles onto the planks with crayon, so I knew where to stick the actual copper rectangles. That seemed to work well. Photo below of the result.

 
I am all out of tips, so will conclude this 'build log' with some photos of the finished boat.





 
I really enjoyed this build. It is easy and very relaxing and, although far from perfect, I am fairly satisfied with the final result. Catopower, in his build, chose to stain the wood fairly dark, which is historically more correct and looks great. But since I quite liked the variation in wood colour, in particular the reddish tones here and there, I only applied a matt varnish.
 
Will try to create a proper build log for my next build, but hopefully this all-in-one-go log can be of use to someone some day nevertheless.
 

All lower shrouds are up and fore stays are being installed:

Shrouds have traditionally been very difficult for me.
 
This is one of the quickest shroud installations that I have ever done.
 
The mouses are painted wood and I made them from dowel rods.

Very slow progress, all the parts are too small and require too much concentration.
 

One evening one piece.
I decided to work on the main mast. While assembling the PE part it came obvious that while it was detailed, the tripod was too thin, more of a 2d shape. And since Ticos have a reinforced mast like Spruance class I decided to work on the original part.
Work begun on SPS Radar. While holding the arm with tweezers and trying to attach the radar, it twisted and bended. I took another  set from my spares, but proved very delicate and broke after a slight bend. Perhaps If i could use 10 sets I could have damaged all. An attempt to glue them failled,  still looked wrecked. 
So basically I took the arm of the plastic piece and add the main radar plate on it. It was the best solution I could think after all other options have failed

Wonderful finish! It's rather amazing to think that only eight years elapsed between the last Holland boat and the launch of U9.

Finally the communication cables, front gun, crew and flag have been added! It is finished and I would recommend this build to anyone as the problems were almost non-existant. Thanks to those who have shown an interest and kept me going with comments, wows and likes. They are much appreciated. It has been an enjoyable experience, especially since I joined MSW in March this year.
See the final MSM Gallery link here.




Cheers and thanks,
 

 

Hi Grant, your AQ is coming along very nicely, and yes all that planking looks good.
I just used a fine paint pen on the supplied ply wood, I’m happy with it.
And sometimes I think, how much extra work and time should I put into a model.

Your hardwood mounting looks very professional, but I would have used 4 of the inserts to hold down the plants base plate.
And yes with the plant lower, it aligns up nicely with the prop shaft, and a nice small uni.
I just hope my twin universals all works OK.

And your Flywheel looks good too, mine is a little different concept / design.
Did you use the engines 5mm output shaft or made a longer one.

And I’m sure you will sort out the issue with the burner / boiler.
And I'm still to get mine running.
It is a pity you can’t see my build thread on the other forum.

Beautiful work on that decking, Grant!

Thx Keith. No, the burner issue has not yet been resolved. I’m pushing on with the rest of the build while we cogitate on that one. We have a club meeting this week and there is another steam guru there who may be able to offer some further advice. If all else fails, I’ll have a very expensive static model……

Two more sections added to the fuselage.
 

I haven’t painted any 54mm for over a year but recently became interested in doing so between work on my current ship modeling project.  Like the kit ship my figure stash has too many figures representing different interests when I bought them.  My first step is to finish my collection of American Civil War figures starting with the last of several mounted Union Cavalry Men.  My objective is to improve my technique before moving onto more difficult subjects. I have outfitted myself with a wet palette, mechanical paint mixer, and fingernail striping brushes should arrive soon.
 
My first subject is the Cavalry horse.  I became interested in trying the technique of “pre-shading” via posts on building a Titanic model here on MSW.  The idea seems to shade selected primed areas with a dark color and then paint over with tin coats of a lighter color.  The horse has large enough areas to allow airbrushing.  Using it on figures might not work.
 
Roger

I think it's the same concept Mark. 

Hmm.. that hand stabiliser looks like an interesting tool.  How big is it and how is it used?  I've familiar with the old sign painters method using a long stick of wood but not sure how something that small would work.

Thank you  kindly brother.
 
OC.

Only cause you haven't tried yet brother...
 
Doing them as small as you have been doing should make the larger ones easier I imagine... Anyway I would have a lot of confidence in your ability to paint any figure at this point...

Looking good  Alan,   I do washes  over my  28mm   figures  but how well  I would  get  on  doing that  at this  scale  - I dont know,  you  could  try  a  very  slightly darker  shade  of Yellow  and  paint  the  shadows,  then  a  slightly  lighter shade of Yellow  and  dry brush  the  highlights  and  raised  areas,   I haven't actually  successfully  painted  any larger  scale  figures.
 
OC.

You know Alan something I read the other day about the eyelid always covers half the eye........I have always done figures as Bug Eyes then something to keep in mind...you may already know this?Keep up the good work.

A quiet Sunday morning and a bit more progress. I completed the turban, started the belts and cummerbund. I got brave and added the whites of the eye which I guess commits me to doing the pupils. Some touching up to do with the belts but I am happy with the face. I added a black wash to the beard and I like it.
I need to decide on the next step. The guide picture shows a lot of fine detail patterns on the sash and the turban. Thin stripes of red and brown on the yellow. I'm inclining to just going with some broad stripes seeing as this is my first figure and I want to end up with something I feel okay with rather than a shameful mess. I suspect the guy that painted the figure for the guide might have done a few other figures before attempting that one




I'm also looking for a bit of advice. I am wondering whether to try to use a wash to bring out the details and whether to spray a clear coat onto the figure before attempting the wash. Any thoughts or advice?
I bought this rather odd-looking device after browsing the DSPIAE range. Its a hand stabiliser to try to control motion when painting detail or using tweezers on small parts. I'm still adapting to working with it and it seems very helpful. I will definitely be using it when I get brave enough to try to paint the pupils.

Thanks you all for looking in and for the encouraging comments and suggestions
 
Alan
 
 
 
 

Thank you Craig. Its a big learning experience but its hugely enjoyable - and the finished product doesn't take up much room. But they are quicbker to complete so maybe they end up taking the same space as a complicated ship model.
Alan

I thought that's why they were developing those kits?   For us older types....

nice work on the ft 17
Indeed, a long time ago, Lego was stimulating to develop and build something yourself.
Nowadays you just have to follow the drawn instructions step by step.
boring for us older generation (my opinion😪)

Thank you  kindly Gary.
 
OC.

Just catching up, OC.  Looking really good and I agree with the others that your weathering is not overdone.  I think it's controlled and very realistic.  Love the wet, sloppy looking road ruts.
 
Gary

welcome @JFM 
hi Jim i just used a gloss varnish on the wood, the spirit based, you could use shellac, the paint work was just rattle cans and then left

Someone sure was a Petty fan. He even had the car Petty "rented" for one race, the number 6 green Monte Carlo.
I saw Petty race at several Firecracker 400's on July 4th at Daytona. I was young when I went to those races way back then. Today, I would not want to sit through that heat for that long. It makes me realize how huge a fan was my dad for taking me to all those kinds of events when I was a kid. My dad loved racing, and he didn't care what kind of racing it was. Horse racing, buggy/trotter racing, motorcycle, sprint cars, clay track, hydroplanes. just everything.