lionfish

Great advice on this site Les: http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

get well soon chuck, i check my notifications everyday with anticipation. 

get well soon chuck, i check my notifications everyday with anticipation. 

get well soon chuck, i check my notifications everyday with anticipation. 

ive had that happen before, but ive found that soft tweezers, i.e, ones that dont take a lot of force to close, work a bit better. plus i tune my tweezers to grip at the tip, i just bend them. just my 2cents.
 
tools that are a waste or useless are any you dont use. i will say power tools bought from home depot are a waste, they basically tell companies how much they are going to pay for tools, as part of the deal they get so many free tools, and they tell the company to put through QC and pass any failed tool. i work for an industrial supplier and one of my customers was looking at a cordless drill, got a quote from me and one from home cheapo. they are charging less than what it takes my company to buy direct from the manufacturer. my customer was making a big about it so i made him a deal, he will buy the home cheapo tool, ill get direct from manufacturer. we will take both tools apart and look at the construction, if my tool isnt made better then i will pay to have both tools fixed, and give him mine for free. needless to say, when we took the tools apart he was shocked to see the difference, a lot more plastic is used in their tools, in mine was a lot of metal and well made parts. so he gets all of his brand name tools from us now. dont get me wrong buying a tool for cheap because you arent going to use it a lot or do anything demanding is fine. another customer bought identical tools one from me and the other from HD, after two years my tool is still going strong and the HD tool died after a year. granted both of these customers work in construction, but i think its the principal that sucks. companies making things cheaper and cheaper to stretch profit margins. anyway rant over, do we have an area just for tool and equipment reviews? or is it just the tools section?

Well I had to figure out how to get useable lumber out of those boxes of odd shaped cutoffs, I've not done that much woodworking since the 80's having worked mostly in metal the last 25 years so im rusty and have forgotten a lot of tricks.I found this one on youtube and it works great.Had to make an indicator holder for my little saw I bought way back then, a maple carrier board and a zero clearance throat plate, buy some tape and off to the races. This tape is only 10 bucks for 42"s and it STICKS, I use L thinner to clean up.
So you start by getting a flat edge on your work piece, sanded,jointed or sawn, attach it to the board and zero your indicator and make a first pass, there after just add the saw kerf and desired thickness.....I've been able to cut as thin as 10 thou using this. It will work until I have my little bandsaw back online and tuned up but I think this might work better anyway....and I still have all my digits

This is my first wooden ship build, as well as my first build log. the kit was given to me by my girlfriend for Christmas, even after she knows how i am with models in general. i finally decided to go for it and build the kit mostly stock, there are some mods i am doing, but nothing over whelming. you all know the story of the bounty so ill skip that part.
 
the kit comes in a nice package with a fold up lid and window, very colorful and full of pictures. half of the step by step instructions are on the box in the form of pictures that show various steps. this is good for those who are just starting out, but a pain to have to keep the box just for a reference. the kit also comes with a few tools, some paint, rigging materials, a few bags of small parts both wood and metal. the metal parts are for the ships wheel, cannons, hand pumps, cabin windows. there is also a few bundles of wire. the wood isnt the best being a little thick for the scale, but it decent if it isnt a big deal to you. all the main parts are pre-die cut. the pre-carved hull is fairly rough, the whole thing needed sanding, and some areas needed reshaping. its not a kit i would say is entry level, due to the roughness of the hull and such unless you have experience in carving. id say the kit is better for someone with experience who is looking for a very simple and quick build.
 
 
in doing my research i decided to copperplate the hull. many ships had this at the time so it seams only right to do so. in fitting and sanding the stem doesnt fit as it should, and in my opinion isnt usable. i sandwhiched two pieces of basswood sheets together and sketched a corrected stem on it. now i just have to take some time with my coping saw to cut it out. i might replace most of the pre-cut parts with my own, but we will see. the instructions say to carve planks into the solid hull, but instead im going to build a false deck and install it on top of the hull. it will allow me to really control the decking, and add that much more material to the lip for the sides. i will try and get some pictures when i can, my phone, which is my primary camera, tried its hand at swimming earlier this week, so snapping pics spur of the moment is out.
 
 
anyway i hope you all enjoy this new journey with me

Deck detail almost complete
 
Most of the "official" deck furniture and fittings are now in place, although as ever, there's lots of tidying up and touching up to be done. Several items were more difficult than anticipated, but to balance things, the items I thought would be difficult, weren't!
 

 
The wheel assembly for instance was really tricky to build, or at least to hold steady while it was glued. In contrast I was surprised how easily I managed the complicated looking steering rope assembly (which was originally very much tighter than it now is, I suppose there is some stretching takes place post assembly). The cannon were also surprisingly tricky, and the rope tackle thereof always is! After much heart searching and head scratching I've left the cannon in their original turned brass state. I'm the first to say they should be gunmetal black, but that brass finish is just too good looking!
 

 
The sliding hatch "manhole" covers were easier than anticipated, as were the main hatch "slats", considering there isn't a word of instruction (in common with almost everything on the deck). With the anchor winch I cheated a little; I didn't file and sand the round sides into flats. I know I would have been unable to resist using the Dremel to help, and that would undoubtedly have overdone things. The anchors themselves lack the instructed "brass" metalwork. I struggle with that a little, and have simply resorted to the black cartridge paper trick, which I've always thought looks really effective anyway. I've been quite creative with the anchor ropes (in more ways than one), but if it looks good, it must be good!
 

 

 
Another little bit of creativity was used below decks; in reality the anchor ropes were stored below decks either on racks or carefully hung. This was to ensure they dried properly and thus discourage rot. I elected to build racks for the ropes to be spread on. Note the two ropes both disappear into the darkness forward. In reality they were secured to the mast more often than not. Mine won't be (far too much work for something that won't even be seen. I anticipate enough problems getting the foremast to fit, much less tie things to it). There's a bit of a story regarding the rope; I elected to use ordinary household string. (The kit provided one is, I believe, much too thick, and there's not enough of it). So I carefully soaked the string in sections, in an eggcup, with a stain and water mix. When dry I was pleased to note the "string" really did look like seasoned rope. Feeling really smug I began to fit it. It was only then I realised the string had swollen and was twice its original thickness and far too thick to be of use. In the end I used the original string and dabbed it with the stain once it was in place!
 

 
Note the door to the brig at the far right ;-)
 
I am currently struggling (and I mean struggling) with the launch which sits in the middle of the deck. It really is tricky. There is a temptation (which I may yet be unable to resist) to leave it out completely, but I do think it will add a great deal. I've elected to make it complete rather than be exposed on one side like the ship itself (as per the instructions). I believe that is unnecessary and one step too far.
 
Assuming I am successful, and both launch and ships jolly boat do end up residing on the deck, then it's the masts!
 
Yet another challenge!
 
Bryan
 

great, ill have to add this to my list, your building is very clean on this. do you plan on doing any upgrading for the kit fittings you mentioned?

Hi Lionfish,
 
Yes, I am already using the upgraded rope, boxwood blocks and cannons from Chuck at Syren.
 
The cannon comparison vs the kit cannons is back on page 6 post 110 in case it helps. I am using his rope in tan and black at 0.008, 0.012 and 0.025in depending on what is being rigged. Blocks are his 1/8th single and double blocks, but I went down to his small 2mm blocks for the cannons. Note the kit provided 4mm blocks which look just too large given the 1/60th scale. 
 
The link to the Syren webpage is below, but it is of course on the top page of the site along with all our other sponsors (my thanks to them all!)
 
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com
 
Thanks for the kind word Dimitris and to those who hit the like button! I certainly plan on having a good day as I have a day off today!   
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

looks great, how would you rate this kit so far?

great, ill have to add this to my list, your building is very clean on this. do you plan on doing any upgrading for the kit fittings you mentioned?

Hi Lionfish,
 
Thanks for stopping by and for the kind comment.
 
"looks great, how would you rate this kit so far?"
 
It is a fun kit and a good one for a first build.  Planking is not too hard as the bow is not very bluff and of course the rigging is not very complex. The kit also offers lots of scope to add fun extra details. I've been pretty happy w the wood quality but as usual, some of the kit fittings like the cannons, rope and blocks are worth upgrading.
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.

Hi All,
 
Again, thanks for all the comments and likes everyone..
 
It has been slow going as I learn, but I've made a little  progress on the rigging.  All the double blocks for the shrouds have been seized to the eyebolts ready for attaching to the chainplates. Hard to tell from the pictures, but the top of the mainmast shrouds were then served where they wrap over one of the metal crossbars at the top of the mast.  Finally, before tightening the shrouds, pairs of single blocks were attached to the mast using the other crossbar. These pairs of blocks will be used later when the sails are added. 
 
Now on to complete the fore and mizzen mast shrouds...hopefully this will go a bit faster!
 
Cheers,
 
Nigel.
 

 

 

 
 

i know you can get super glue in different viscosity, i feel like ive see that exact bottle under a different name though, hhmm, oh well glad its working for you 

i keep thin, standard and gel type super glues around, i use standard and gel for my reef keeping and such. i love the gel, it doesnt move around and smear as easy. i stopped at home cheapo yesterday and picked up some clamps and wood glue, i hope to get the false deck glued but i am hesitant because of alignment 

After my last update, I began work on the inboard planking, but realized that I needed more wood from Crown in order to complete it. While waiting for that order, I decided to start on some of the "fun stuff" --  the deck furniture that will be necessary to do the deck planking. To this point, I have made up the two hatches, the base for the galley stack, the small grating at the stern and the companionway. I still need to do the skylight.
 
The gratings were done using Chuck's cambered grating material. The coamings were constructed and then shaped to match the deck camber and the curve of the gratings. The companionway was made of edge glued strip with some interior corner bracing. I used a pencil on one side of each plank.  The hinges are from Chuck's little kit and the handles are made 
from brass rings and eyebolts. I have decided to leave all of the furniture items in natural wood with a coat of Wipe-on Poly. I prefer the look and believe that there will be sufficient contrast with the holly that I am using for the deck planking to provide some interest.
 
Photos of the deck items are attached. Photos of the inboard planking won't be posted until it is completed.
 
Bob

This is my first wooden ship build, as well as my first build log. the kit was given to me by my girlfriend for Christmas, even after she knows how i am with models in general. i finally decided to go for it and build the kit mostly stock, there are some mods i am doing, but nothing over whelming. you all know the story of the bounty so ill skip that part.
 
the kit comes in a nice package with a fold up lid and window, very colorful and full of pictures. half of the step by step instructions are on the box in the form of pictures that show various steps. this is good for those who are just starting out, but a pain to have to keep the box just for a reference. the kit also comes with a few tools, some paint, rigging materials, a few bags of small parts both wood and metal. the metal parts are for the ships wheel, cannons, hand pumps, cabin windows. there is also a few bundles of wire. the wood isnt the best being a little thick for the scale, but it decent if it isnt a big deal to you. all the main parts are pre-die cut. the pre-carved hull is fairly rough, the whole thing needed sanding, and some areas needed reshaping. its not a kit i would say is entry level, due to the roughness of the hull and such unless you have experience in carving. id say the kit is better for someone with experience who is looking for a very simple and quick build.
 
 
in doing my research i decided to copperplate the hull. many ships had this at the time so it seams only right to do so. in fitting and sanding the stem doesnt fit as it should, and in my opinion isnt usable. i sandwhiched two pieces of basswood sheets together and sketched a corrected stem on it. now i just have to take some time with my coping saw to cut it out. i might replace most of the pre-cut parts with my own, but we will see. the instructions say to carve planks into the solid hull, but instead im going to build a false deck and install it on top of the hull. it will allow me to really control the decking, and add that much more material to the lip for the sides. i will try and get some pictures when i can, my phone, which is my primary camera, tried its hand at swimming earlier this week, so snapping pics spur of the moment is out.
 
 
anyway i hope you all enjoy this new journey with me

i know you can get super glue in different viscosity, i feel like ive see that exact bottle under a different name though, hhmm, oh well glad its working for you 

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

looks awesome, gives me hope for when i get to build this beauty of a ship

Sorry guys.... I just couldn't abide the "space issue" with that first cannon.
So I will pull that one out and replace it with one of these smaller rigs I had developed for my SOS build.
Smaller cannon and the footprint of the truck is better suited for the tight quarters.

 
I am creating a casting mold from this cannon in order to make four of these units.