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CharlieZardoz
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from mtaylor in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
And here they are, just looks better in my opinion though if this is historically inaccurate do let me know. I've seen some models with different heights to their hatches and the Chapelle plan shows this as well so I am assuming it's perfectly acceptable. They are not 100% square yet but that wasn't my intention since when the time comes ill wrap the wood around the hatch grating so it is the correct shape. I wanted too see how they would look overall I think the thickness and heights look great!
What I am still unhappy with is the level of precision between the lock joints. I feel it's my tools I am curious what some of you use for cutting very tiny and precise right angles, perhaps they aren't sharp enough or perhaps there is something better to use. Thoughts and feedback are appreciated
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from dgbot in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
My first attempt was trash using 1/8" by 1/16" basswood too soft and ultimately the coamings looked too thick, second attempt I used boxwood 3/64" by 5/32" for both. What I found is that having them the same height didn't quite look right (look below). So next I chose to make the forward coaming 3/64" by 1/8" which looked much better.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from dgbot in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Hi everyone! So I decided I wanted something simple finished on the model and have been practicing on making the frames for the hatches (coamings). While I want to do the final frames in cherry so they are darker than the boxwood grating I have a large supply of boxwood so thought I'd play around and get the hang of using a hobby knife to carve wood. While lots of fun it took me a few tries to get a decent result. Below you can see my approach including a simple lock joint on the edges.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from shipmodel in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
I agree Greg and for the next attempt I am going to put the gratings together first and then build the coaming around it. In this I will use the kit from Syren ship models
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CharlieZardoz reacted to dvm27 in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
The coamings look nice, Charlie. But consider that the grating illustrations may not quite match the final construction for any number of reasons. Forcing them to fit your already built coamings may require some shaving of the gratings that will result in half holes. I find it best to construct the gratings first, with symmetrical borders on all sides, then build the hatch coamings and head ledges around them. The final assembly may vary from the prototype by an inch or two but will look better. I believe Dan has published a nice article on this site (or in the NRG book) regarding this technique.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to Cathead in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
They seem a bit tall to me, but I'm no expert. Nicely made, certainly.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to jbshan in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
#8 from the right, if it has one edge with no teeth is exactly what I use. You can get right into a corner without making the adjacent side too deep, then you have to come back and square that up, then the other side is too deep, and back and forth until you can drive a truck through what is supposed to be 2 X 2 ft.
Coamings in this period could be as much as 9 inches above deck, maybe a bit more. When you measure, don't forget to take account of the deck which you haven't laid yet.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from FriedClams in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
And here they are, just looks better in my opinion though if this is historically inaccurate do let me know. I've seen some models with different heights to their hatches and the Chapelle plan shows this as well so I am assuming it's perfectly acceptable. They are not 100% square yet but that wasn't my intention since when the time comes ill wrap the wood around the hatch grating so it is the correct shape. I wanted too see how they would look overall I think the thickness and heights look great!
What I am still unhappy with is the level of precision between the lock joints. I feel it's my tools I am curious what some of you use for cutting very tiny and precise right angles, perhaps they aren't sharp enough or perhaps there is something better to use. Thoughts and feedback are appreciated
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from mtaylor in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
My first attempt was trash using 1/8" by 1/16" basswood too soft and ultimately the coamings looked too thick, second attempt I used boxwood 3/64" by 5/32" for both. What I found is that having them the same height didn't quite look right (look below). So next I chose to make the forward coaming 3/64" by 1/8" which looked much better.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from mtaylor in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Hi everyone! So I decided I wanted something simple finished on the model and have been practicing on making the frames for the hatches (coamings). While I want to do the final frames in cherry so they are darker than the boxwood grating I have a large supply of boxwood so thought I'd play around and get the hang of using a hobby knife to carve wood. While lots of fun it took me a few tries to get a decent result. Below you can see my approach including a simple lock joint on the edges.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from Cathead in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
And here they are, just looks better in my opinion though if this is historically inaccurate do let me know. I've seen some models with different heights to their hatches and the Chapelle plan shows this as well so I am assuming it's perfectly acceptable. They are not 100% square yet but that wasn't my intention since when the time comes ill wrap the wood around the hatch grating so it is the correct shape. I wanted too see how they would look overall I think the thickness and heights look great!
What I am still unhappy with is the level of precision between the lock joints. I feel it's my tools I am curious what some of you use for cutting very tiny and precise right angles, perhaps they aren't sharp enough or perhaps there is something better to use. Thoughts and feedback are appreciated
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from FriedClams in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
My first attempt was trash using 1/8" by 1/16" basswood too soft and ultimately the coamings looked too thick, second attempt I used boxwood 3/64" by 5/32" for both. What I found is that having them the same height didn't quite look right (look below). So next I chose to make the forward coaming 3/64" by 1/8" which looked much better.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from shipmodel in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Second is a more modified version the one is front is 5 by 5 holes and the one in back 8 by 8 holes. This one is similar in dimensions to various kits mamoli/krick/AL etc and honestly looks the best in my opinion. The other option would be to vary them up, last pic shows the one in front 4 by 5 and the 8 by 8 in the back. I'm open to opinions which do you all think looks best? Otherwise I'll probably pick option 3 with the mixed approach since to my eyes it just right. Also what about the size of the grating holes do they look to scale?
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CharlieZardoz reacted to jbshan in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
See if you can find a flat, non-tapered file with one of the sides smooth, no teeth. That lets you concentrate on only one side of the cut without worrying about cutting too deep on the side you aren't working on. Right angles? You need to develop an eye for it, or some sort of jig or holder that lets you keep your file or sander square.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to RichardG in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
I used a razor saw for mine with a sanding stick to finish. I also did them in pairs and slightly longer than needed so I could sand them flush after assembly.
Richard
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from shipmodel in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
And here they are, just looks better in my opinion though if this is historically inaccurate do let me know. I've seen some models with different heights to their hatches and the Chapelle plan shows this as well so I am assuming it's perfectly acceptable. They are not 100% square yet but that wasn't my intention since when the time comes ill wrap the wood around the hatch grating so it is the correct shape. I wanted too see how they would look overall I think the thickness and heights look great!
What I am still unhappy with is the level of precision between the lock joints. I feel it's my tools I am curious what some of you use for cutting very tiny and precise right angles, perhaps they aren't sharp enough or perhaps there is something better to use. Thoughts and feedback are appreciated
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from Cathead in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
My first attempt was trash using 1/8" by 1/16" basswood too soft and ultimately the coamings looked too thick, second attempt I used boxwood 3/64" by 5/32" for both. What I found is that having them the same height didn't quite look right (look below). So next I chose to make the forward coaming 3/64" by 1/8" which looked much better.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from FriedClams in 19th Century 31-ton Revenue Cutter by CharlieZardoz - Scale 1/64 - building as USRC Active based off Doughty plans and BlueJacket Shipcrafters kit
Hi everyone! So I decided I wanted something simple finished on the model and have been practicing on making the frames for the hatches (coamings). While I want to do the final frames in cherry so they are darker than the boxwood grating I have a large supply of boxwood so thought I'd play around and get the hang of using a hobby knife to carve wood. While lots of fun it took me a few tries to get a decent result. Below you can see my approach including a simple lock joint on the edges.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to HIPEXEC in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Hooray!!! My kit arrived via USPS from Model Expo. Outer box a little beat up but kit is okay.
I have to admit this model ship building is an addiction. With no kit to work on I was pacing the deck looking for things to do. I even contemplated tweaking my Connie that has been dormant for almost two years.
I'll spend some time checking the inventory against what's in the box.
Then I will read the very, very comprehensive instruction book. It looks like the most detailed instructions I have ever seen in a kit.
The 1:1 drawings look very detailed.
Compared to the lack of instructions and drawings from that banned kit of the HMS Surprise, this is heaven.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I'm trying to decide what wood to use fashioning the catheads . My choices are boxwood, Rosewood, swiss pear or the stock walnut. Here are two photos of the deck furniture set in place. What do you all think? I'm leaning rosewood vs. boxwood.
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CharlieZardoz reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I completed two sets of bitts - one for each mast - and the ship's belfry (which also has running rigging belayed to it). I also finished the quarterdeck stairs. The plans call for a stairway on each side between the gun ports as well as boarding steps on the exterior hull above the wales. Neither Halifax, Sultana nor Chaleur had this feature, so I'm not adding the boarding stairs to this model, either! Next are the elm tree pumps, the catheads and the cannons.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from Nirvana in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Hi! Regarding bulwark colors the answer is it varied. The british preferred red and syren likely has red in alot of models due to her being a captured ship. The states used green but I imagine also red and in time white. Basically whatever was cheap and available. For more info on colors id recommend a copy of nrg's ship model shop notes II.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from Jack12477 in US Brig Syren by Hipexec - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64 - building as USS Argus
Hi! Regarding bulwark colors the answer is it varied. The british preferred red and syren likely has red in alot of models due to her being a captured ship. The states used green but I imagine also red and in time white. Basically whatever was cheap and available. For more info on colors id recommend a copy of nrg's ship model shop notes II.
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CharlieZardoz got a reaction from mtaylor in Sultana by CharlieZardoz - Model Shipways - 1:64
Thanks! I took a break on this one to practice on the simpler revenue cutters but will get back to her after
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