CharlieZardoz

parasartie (I don't know their name in english, sorry!)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

placement test
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you so much guys. Im really hoping to give these models my best and learn all the lessons I need in order to then build bigger and better ships and get to the level I seen from your logs. I can only dream of building frigate or larger for now.

nice work Charlie,
 
the hull is coming in a great look....
 
Nils

And so here we are. I've gotten one half sanded perfect to the templates. Now onto the second half. You can see in some of the pics the difference between sides especially at the stern. Also look at the design such a streamline shape so different to Sultana.

Very nice work Charlie. You have the makings of a very elegant model there.
 
Dan.

Maple is a cheaper alternative to holly. Also holly is hard to weather. Generally deck wood is of a lighter color but it doesn't have to be. Some use boxwood or even pear (unsteamed pear which is lighter).

Hi Charlie
 
I'm enjoying watching your little beauty take shape. Those Revenue Cutters must've been the epitome of style in their day. You know, slick, fast and super cool to look at!
 
Keep up the great work.
 
Cheers
Patrick

No worries Mark, all that's out that window is a courtyard, perhaps a few dusty pigeons

No worries Mark, all that's out that window is a courtyard, perhaps a few dusty pigeons

And so here we are. I've gotten one half sanded perfect to the templates. Now onto the second half. You can see in some of the pics the difference between sides especially at the stern. Also look at the design such a streamline shape so different to Sultana.

So then came the sanding process. You can see the tools I used starting from the bow and working my way back. The shaping templates helped me to refine the form and were invaluable. You can see the various bit I used to sand roughly then refine and the smaller ones for curves and detailing.

Nearly there now!  I have finished (I hope!) the blocking in of the hull.  Eventually I decided to block in the stern as it will be "solid" on the model - no inside details.  The whole thing has been sanded to shape and set aside for a day or so - then a critical eye and a touch more here and there with the sanding block has produced a hull that is the right shape.
 
The next stage is to practice a bit of plank bending I previously used a plank nipper but this time I will try boiling the planks and maybe a bit of heat /drying from a hair dryer - My first practice plank seems to be getting to be about the right shape.
 
The blocked in stern:

 
Sanded to shape:

 
The final bow shape:

 
And the decks propped in place to give an idea of the finished article:

 
I've just realised that this has taken me eleven months so far - I suspect folks with more time could get to this stage in a couple of weeks of evenings  !

Another 20 minutes with the coarse glasspaper tonight - The shape of the hull is finally beginning to emerge from the rough blockwork.  For others trying this method use 60 grit paper to rough out and "go for it" at this stage - there is no point in spending hours with finer papers.
 
The missing blockwork on the bottom of the hull (caused by a mixture of laziness and wanting to see the hull form emerge ) has actually proved to be very useful as a way of getting a firm grip on the hull.  There is still time to block it in later as the amount of sanding on this area is quite small.  
 

 

I've now completed the forward most portion of the internal detailing. This included the galley stack, the belfry, the windlass, the forecastle ladders, some ringbolts and the spanshackle for the fish davit.
 
I decided not to use the kit casting for the galley stack, and made one up from boxwood strip with the front drilled out. I then added a flue cover made from a disc of styrene, with mounting guides from wire and eyebolts. Lastly, a coaming from walnut strip was added at the base.
 
The belfry was made up basically using the kit parts, with minor changes.
 
The windlass required a decision. The kit parts for the mounting brackets and cheeks are solid walnut and were fine. I did add standards (knees) to them as shown in AOTS.These were cut from the walnut sheet from which the other parts came. The decision came with regard to the barrel of the windlass. The kit parts were a very light colored ply and would not match the other parts if left as natural wood. I chose to use them ,but paint the barrel red, rather than either attempt to stain the ply parts to match or scratch build a barrel from walnut. I actually like the result. The bands at the end of the barrel and at the base are black painted paper.
 
The ladders were made from made from boxwood strip and painted red, as I had done with the other ladders.
 
Ringbolts made from brass rings and eyebolts were added to the forward ports and the deck. The spanshackle is the kit PE part modified to hook into an eyebolt.
 
Bob
 
 

After completing work on the head, I wanted to do something less demanding (really, what wouldn't be ?}. I chose to do the two mortars. I used the kit's castings for the mortars, modified only by the addition of handles, as shown in AOTS. The handles were bent from wire. The mortar beds were also done with the kit parts, including eyebolts and the PE cap squares. I decided to show the mortars with one in a raised (firing) position and the other in a lowered (stowed) position.
 
I'm now moving on to start the remainder of the main deck detailing.
 
Bob

The hull is coming out very well, Charlie.  I'm impressed.    The fan blowing out the window is a great idea as long as the neighbors don't object.    And it's probably a lot quieter than shop vac.   Good on you for the face mask.  

Haha cheers! Well it was touch and go there for a bit I realized this was a tad more challenging than I expected. But I'm very pleased with the result and learned a lot and yes have been wearing a mask though initially I didn't realize how much dust this can create so I started doing the sanding by the window and that helped.

And so here we are. I've gotten one half sanded perfect to the templates. Now onto the second half. You can see in some of the pics the difference between sides especially at the stern. Also look at the design such a streamline shape so different to Sultana.

The keel now fits where it should. Notice the beak overhangs a bit. This is correct and in the proper keel (made in cherry?) I will have the beak extend about a quarter of an inch onto the top deck. The lines on the hull will be redrawn a few times but they help me know where to sand. The xxxx's are where the templates brush into the wood incorrectly so those areas are where I sand next. EzPz!

So then came the sanding process. You can see the tools I used starting from the bow and working my way back. The shaping templates helped me to refine the form and were invaluable. You can see the various bit I used to sand roughly then refine and the smaller ones for curves and detailing.

Using a slicing style blade for the dremel I sliced about a quarter of an inch off the keelson. In hindsight it should have been from the deck however it ultimately worked out just as fine even if I now have lungs full of sawdust lol.  The box shows what fell in the rest blew out the window using a reverse fan

So here is my newest update. I spent a week or so reshaping the hull from the 31 ton at 1/48 scale (the kit) to a 51 ton 1/64 scale. This was a bit more challenging than one might think while both look similar there is actually quite a bit of difference in the incline. The 51 ton is flatter at 27 degrees while the 31 ton has more drag at 30 degrees. Fortunately the templates at modelshipwright are perfect as they indicate the height as well as correct shape. Also for a bit of fun I put the Sultana template next to the revenue cutter so you can see how different the shapes are.

Thanks Mark! It's really a very easy shape to carve. Much more than Sultana which has an apple shape but my experience with Sultana helped me with this one. The work I did in a few months I can do now in a few weeks and in turn I need to work on this one a bit to teach me more about Sultana as well. Im sort of bouncing off one to another. That said I want my next ship to be plank on bulkhead I am looking forward to starting Ballahoo once these 3 are past the planking stage

The last part of this is the height. This is something I have to ponder the hull needs 1/4" taken off the top of the deck, You can see the amount needed when adding the transom, plus the image at the bow that stem piece must be slightly above the top of the deck. I'm not sure if I will shave from the top, bottom or cut the hull in half and do it that way. It has a very specific build in curve to the top so I am unsure if I want to alter that. That said I can recreate it using the plans, as you see in this pic the curve of the deck follows the line I have circled, the image itself stops at the top of the ships tiny bulwark/sheer. So more work to be done!